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Coffee Meets Alcohol: The Best Of Both Worlds

There’s something civilised about drinking a cocktail. And during the lockdown, we needed it more than ever to distract us from the boredom. Another drink that kept us sane and cheery was coffee. I can’t imagine starting my day without a crisp cup of medium roast, pour-over, that’s preferably from an Indian estate. It wasn’t surprising then that someone had the idea of combining these two lifesavers — coffee and alcohol to make one single drink. The most-consumed cocktail during the pandemic was the Espresso Martini!

Over the last decade, the surging popularity of coffee and cocktails have resulted in innovations among vendors and helped us better our appreciation and understanding of these products. Words like craft roasters, single-lot coffees, grinds, roasts, brewing techniques, nitros, AeroPress and pour-overs, have become a part of our vocabulary and changed the way we consume our favourite beverage. A similar change has been underway in the alcohol and cocktail space as well. Mixers, syrups, tonics, craft beer are now part of everyday conversations. 

The coming together of the two fast-growing craft segments have resulted in a new breed of drinks like the Espresso Martini. And it is just the beginning of what is promising to be an excellent future for coffee-accented tipples.

Nitin Vishwas of Moonshine Meadery breaks this phenomenon down. He says the specialty coffee brands have done a ton to educate the consumer. “They’ve been pushing the envelope and making big waves. So have been the craft alcobev producers. It’s only natural for them to come together,” he explains. 

Aman Thadani of Fullerton Distilleries declares that doing something with coffee was always a part of his plan. He sees an overlap in consumers of the two beverages. “Mixing coffee and craft alcobevs isn’t new, and with the craft spirit movement in India growing in confidence, it is only natural for them to try new things,” he says. 

Here we look at a few exciting new products in the market that do a good job of combining coffee with alcohol. 

Malabar Stout

Bira 91 and Blue Tokai joined hands to put an Indian coffee-accented brew on the world map. The limited-release Malabar Stout is a celebration of the coming together of the Indian craft beer movement and the beautiful coffees of South India. The rich, malty stout with a chocolate flavor that India loves gets a power-packed, aromatic, cold brew boost from select south Indian coffee estates. Bira 91 founder Ankur Jain kept coffee at the centre of the recipe while crafting a beer that accentuates its nuances. The result is an outstanding brew that is robust and impressive. It has a creamy feel and a chewy, malty character. The acidity in the cold brew cleans the palate and makes you return for the next sip. (Mumbai: Rs 170, Bengaluru: Rs 130, Noida: Rs 120)

Coffee Mead and The Collab Project X Subko Specialty Coffee

Mead is not beer. It is largely unknown in India though we created and gifted it to the world; think of soma from the Vedas! Pune-based Moonshine Meadery is the pioneer of modern-day mead in India and probably Asia. Besides their traditional mead, which is a fermented honey drink, they have crafted a coffee mead – a combination of the founders’ two first loves. While Nitin Vishwas is a coffee fanatic, Rohan Rehani is not just an enthusiast but he’s also part of the jury at the Indian Aeropress Championship. 

During their home-brewing days, Nitin threw a handful of coffee beans in his traditional mead, and the result was an instant wow! Their friends loved it, and the founders knew they were on to something. The soft, mild taste showed what a good coffee and a well-made mead could do together. Meads are gluten-free, vegan, with honey at its base, and environment friendly — easily amongst the most sustainable drinks. Pair it with coffee, and you have a morally conscious morning in a glass!

Later, when Rahul Reddy of Mumbai-based Subko Specialised Coffee Roasters reached out to them to get one a project together, it led to a ‘collab series’, the results of which are now sold under the brand name ‘The Collab Project X Subko Specialty Coffee’. It was done in a true spirit of cooperation. Rohan’s company aged the raw green coffee beans in a traditional mead and sent it back to Subko. It was dried and roasted there (they even turned part of it into a coffee, which was on the Subko menu for a few days. I was lucky to be in Mumbai at that time and I loved it). The coffee beans were coarse-ground by Subko and returned to Moonshine to be turned into a specialty mead! The result? A concoction with a boastful coffee character and nuanced notes, one that needs time to open up and patience to appreciate. If it were a wine, I would’ve decanted and let it breathe before sipping — not straight from the bottle, but in a wine glass, at room temperature, like how a fine tipple deserves to be had. The current lot is a limited edition of 1000 bottles. But I am told new coffee meads are on their way. (Coffee Mead, Mumbai: Rs 185, Goa: Rs 140; The Collab Project X Subko Specialty Coffee, Mumbai: Rs 240)

Greater Than Coffee Negroni/Gin

No craft spirit wave has been as impressive as the gin revolution in India. Greater Than, from Goa-based Nao Spirits, was among the earliest to innovate in the game with their limited-release Juniper Bomb. Launched in 2017, Greater Than was India’s first craft London Dry Gin, and there is always an expectation from the founders of the company to up their game. With the pandemic pushing everyone indoors, it allowed them to go loco with experiments.

Co-founder Anand Virmani remembers his distillers bringing him a carton of experimental distils, of which coffee-infused ones instantly stood out. Having experimented with pink gins, juniper styles, citruses, and spices, coffee was a no-brainer for Virmani. At their `bar-takeovers’ across the country, during the early marketing days of Greater Than, he had served a signature cocktail of gin, tonic water, and a cold-brew float called ‘No Sleep G&T’. To create a Coffee Negroni, they reached out to coffee maker Sleepy Owl to source medium roast beans from Chikamagalur. The beans were steeped in water for about two days to create a sturdy cold brew, and then, instead of cutting the distillates with demineralised water as is the norm, it was cut with this strong cold brew. The result is a gin mix with no added sugars, colours, or flavours, except for the crisp and bold coffee expression and fruitiness. It can be drunk with a splash of tonic, an espresso martini, or as a cool coffee Negroni. (Goa: Rs 1,000, Bengaluru Rs 2,400, Mumbai Rs 1,850)

Segredo Aldeia Cafe Rum

Gin may have got all the attention these days, but there is as much action on the rum front too. And among the more popular recent launches has been Segredo Aldeia cafe and white rums from Aman Thadani’s Goa-based Fullarton Distilleries, which also makes the Pumori gin. Aman is also a coffee enthusiast, so it was only a matter of time before he began experimenting with a coffee-rum combination. 

Single-origin coffee beans were sourced from South India, dark roasted, and later infused and sweetened with cane sugar. This jaggery spirit was aged in ex-Bourbon casks and mixed with unaged cane spirit made in a rustic Rhum Agricole style. The process gives the resulting alcohol a ton of complexity, making it a fun yet serious spirit. Infusing whole beans provides a mix of coffee, cocoa, and rustic savoury characters. The sweetness makes it easy on the palate. Keep it in the freezer and pour a dram for yourself from time to time. A splash of water unfolds the spirit, opening it to full bloom. Cafe Rum is like a breath of fresh air on the Indian alcohol shelves, boasting of a new age craft distillers’ sense of confidence and the gentle push to the consumers to try something out of the box.  (Goa: Rs 1,650)

All things said, there is no saying how long this coffee-infused alcohol trend will last. According to Vishwas, overcomplicating the drink might cause the consumers to shy away from trying them. The aim should be to bring the nuances of the two craft beverages together in a way that is simple and easy to decipher.

First Published in Mans World India ,2022

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Cognac Legacy: Time-Tested Glory

Where time is a devouring tyrant, one can effortlessly imagine a 300-year old producer being stuck in a time warp and passé traditions. But that’s not the way the story played out for legendary cognac brand, Martell. Armed with the inheritance of a glorious heritage and an enviable savoir faire, Martell has marched into new chapters and territories with undeterred confidence and written many ‘firsts’ for the spirit. It’s a story spread over nations, that of merchants, royalties, wars, and celebrations, without which cognac is incomplete.

Much-Ado about Marell

Englishman Jean Martell travelled from the self-governing territory of Jersey to France and founded his eponymous company on the banks of the Charente in 1715. The true magic of Cognac was only a few decades young when the determined and ambitious Jean invested his fortunes in its soil. Since the 16th CE, Dutch merchants purchased wines from the region to ship back home. The wines would suffer the woes of transportation, turning into vinegar and thus deemed redundant. The innovative producers of the Cognac region began distilling and reducing them to a concentrated form, avoiding spoilage altogether. The Dutch called it Brandwijn, read burnt wine, hence brandy. A century later, the merchants began double distillation, which meant more space on the ships and, well, more monies. Cognac then was already being transported in oak casks, allowing merchants to discover that the taste of the beverage changed when stored in barrels, resulting in an exceptionally smooth dram of repute.

Though Jean started the house, his journey was short lived. After he passed away in 1753, his widow Rachel Martell, together with her children took the company to new heights. Martell went on to become the most sold brandy in England, crossed the Atlantic and docked in the US, and even impressed the Asian markets of Japan and China. Soon these brandies were brandished with newfound nomenclatures. Very Old Superior (VOS), and the further aged Very Old Superior Pale (VSOP) further upped their merit, declaring the coming of cognacs as richer, more profound, and the emblem of excellence. Jean’s great-grandson, Frederic, in 1831, introduced their family’s VSOP which took Martell’s repute and fortunes to even finer realms. But true glory came from England, where despite sanctions on French imports during the continental block, King George III ordered Martell’s VSOP to be exempt and allowed onto British shores! These special orders cemented it as a refined, superlative produce, fit for the kings, whose reach wasn’t bound by worldly politics.

Future proofed

Cognacs were entering a new era of style with handcrafted bottles, carefully selected closures, family’s crests and emblems, and eye-catching branding. With better control on what finally reaches the glass, Martell was to redefine quality, which even today remains its synonym. In 1848, Martell introduced their signature silver and blue coloured labels, which re-instated Martell’s design philosophy of being distinct, minimalist and contemporary. From here on, there was no looking back as Martell’s popularity soared, adding more prestige to its name. From being served at King George V’s coronation, to being presented to Queen Elizabeth II and Emperor of Japan, more and more royalties attached it to their honour and celebratory moments. Even the elite traveller couldn’t resist, sipping fashionably aboard the voyages on the Queen Mary, Concorde, and the Orient Express! Probably this is what helped cognac earn a reputation for being a certain drink for a certain occasion for a certain crowd, but all this rigid categorisation is now changing. 

In the French flag, the blue ribbon denotes the highest class or standard of quality. Martell introduced their first XO Cognac, Cordon Bleu, which has had an unswerving position and respect among connoisseurs. This legendary Cognac blends spirits aged between 10-25 years, often distinguished by its elegant, complexity, and impeccable balance. From the first whiff its bold notes charm you with its confidence and ethereal finesse, the palate delivers luscious fruity aromas smoothly blended with leather, spice, chocolate, and oak. The Cordon Bleu is testament to why this brand is still a leader in its field, recognised for being accessible and easy to sip. It carved its name in history when it was served at the signing of the World War I armistice. How can you not be at peace while holding a snifter?

Lading from the front

Since the beginning, Martell has been the beacon that’s guided the cognac fraternity. Be it marching into uncharged markets, consistently innovating new labels, or hosting the most luxurious galas at their chateaus and palaces. The arc in the Martell XO bottle signifies the family keeping a firm grip on its past while mindfully modernising for the future. Martell has dared to be different and has chosen to walk its own line with class actors and jazz musicians as its ambassadors. And it’s still leading from the front, with the newly introduced Martell Blue Swift, the first-ever cognac VSOP finished in bourbon casks, Martell has inspired producers to think outside the box and break the shackles of being tied down with an image that’s long due for renovation! Who would have thought, but if it was, we expected it from the house of Martell.

Staying alive

In the new world of craft and fast-moving spirits, cognac is an underdog. It may come with a pricey tag, but the value exceeds the price by far. When you sip a Martell, there’s a value of history, of a family that’s worked for generations to preserve the craftsmanship bestowed by legacy and nurtured by constant innovation; the celebrations of terroir, and the patience of letting nature take its course with every precious drop from the still. Away from the stodgy origins of an image that found resonance with grandfathers reading leather-bound Britannicas, rocking to nostalgic music on old chairs next to a fireplace is wearing thin. Cocktails or a simple Cognac and Ginger with a squeeze of lime and a mint sprig for a fresh garnish can be the new sip to redress an old spirit. It’s one of the most versatile and classy dark spirit. It has never shied away from finding room in any setting. Give it a shot, if not anything else, you’ll get a date with royalty, and it may just leave you with an accent! 

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8 Perfect Japanese Whiskies To Add To Your Bar

2B8JF36 Whisky casks in the Yamazaki Distillery in Mishima, Osaka, Japan.

The world’s biggest whisky market is taking to Japanese whisky with much enthusiasm, though the high prices are a significant barrier.

It is something unique to well-crafted Japanese whiskies — mysticism often supersedes their personality. They enjoy a somewhat cult following, so much so that spotting them on the shelf is at times a rarity. I thought that was an exaggeration until my brother, who was on a business trip to Japan, couldn’t score two bottles of the most decent pickups. But now, as the heart grows dearer for Japanese whiskies, so does their lineup. More brands are being launched in India than anyone would have thought even a few years ago.

After nearly a century of importing and bottling Scotch, the Japanese have, in recent times, moved towards creating unique Japanese whiskies with their own rules and appellations. It stipulates that to be labelled ‘Japanese whisky’, the spirit must be distilled from malted barley, using local water, and be fermented, distilled, aged, and bottled in Japan. They must also be aged in wooden casks for three years and bottled at a minimum of 40 per cent abv.

But what makes them so special? Firstly, when it comes to fauna, fresh air, and water, which are the backbone of any spirit production endeavour, Japan is as uniquely placed as Scotland. The vegetation and climate in the northern stretches of the country are quite like that of Scotland. However, the country’s four distinct seasons — spring, summer, fall, and winter — infuse Japanese whisky some unique characteristics that make it different from Scotch. Add to this the minerals-free water that is a Japanese speciality and the distinctly Japanese wood obtained from Mizunara trees used for making the casks in which the whisky is aged. The Mizunara, also known as Japanese oak, has to be 200 years old before its wood is turned into whisky casks, making them as rare as the whisky.

Then, there is the secrecy of the Japanese distillers. Whereas in Scotland, distillers freely exchange their liquids for making blended whiskies, the Japanese keep their library secret and are loathe to trade. All this is complemented by the country’s famously perfectionist approach to everything. Despite all this, however, it was only in 2014 when whisky guru Jim Murray declared Yamazaki Single Malt Sherry Cask 2013 to be the World Whiskey of the Year in his Whiskey Bible 2015 that the world discovered Japanese whisky. Demand has since soared to a level that has consistently exceeded supply, making them rare and more desirable.

Indian taxes are enough to mar the joy of a good spirit making Japanese whiskies out of reach of most unless you buy them from Duty Free. Further, fine Japanese whiskies are allocated to India in such small numbers that their tag often supersedes their value, landing in the hands of only a few. Who’s to stop Indians from enjoying a discerning dram? A few years ago, Beam Suntory introduced their Yamazaki 12-year-old Single Malt and Hibiki 17 Blended whisky in India, and last year came Toki, their more value-for-money proposition. And a few months ago, the company announced the launch of two limited edition labels in Indian Duty-Free stores. Now, Peak Spirits have announced the arrival of Komagatake Single Malt & Iwai Whiskies from Japan’s highest located Mars Shinshu Distillery in the Indian market.

So, what should you be relishing, you ask? Here’s what’s on our shopping list:

YAMAZAKI 55 YEARS OLD

Rs 46,59,000 (Duty Free)

Probably the most expensive whisky sold in India, it is a blend of precious single malts originally crafted by the founder, Shinjiro Torii, in 1960, and the oldest release in the house’s history. The spirit has been aged for over 55 years in Mizunara (Japanese) oak, and finally finished in white oak. A lot of 100 bottles was first released locally, and now the second batch of 100 is travelling around the world, some docking in Indian Duty-Free. The signature depth, complexity, and finesse from the house of Suntory create its foundation, further accentuated with the play of time and nature. You’re not drinking whiskey; you’re drinking history, and the continuity of a family’s guarded tradition over generations.

YAMAZAKI 55 YEARS OLD

HIBIKI 21 YEARS OLD

Rs 49,990 (Duty-Free)

Called the pinnacle of the art of Japanese whiskies, Hibiki 21 is also a limited release that’s reached India only recently, with a limited supply. A blend of grain and malt whiskies, Hibiki means harmony in Japanese, which is precisely what it delivers. It’s a celebration of the fine art of putting numerous fine spirits together to create one that inspires.

HIBIKI 21 YEARS OLD

YAMAZAKI 12 YEARS OLD

Rs 11,000 (Gurugram)

A product of Japan’s pioneering single malt distillery, Yamazaki expresses the melange of fruits, earth, and the famed Mizunara oak hues. There’s a burst of tropical fruits that make way for sweet spices and citruses, ending on Japanese oak perfume. For many, this is the very definition of Japanese whisky in India, and deservingly so.

YAMAZAKI 12 YEARS OLD

HIBIKI HARMONY

Rs 10,500 (Gurugram)

Created in 1989, the Hibiki label is a testimony to the meticulous art of putting the finest spirits together. The balance has made it amongst the world’s most prestigious and honoured whiskies. The sweet notes of honey, candied citruses, and white chocolate, marry with those of rich florals, expressing their personality over a long finish, completed by the signature Mizunara oak. When in doubt, turn to Hibiki Harmony with a dash of water, and it’ll liven up the palate.

HIBIKI HARMONY

TOKI

Rs 3,200 (Gurugram)

This is the most accessible Japanese whisky in the Indian market currently. A blended spirit, it’s an effortless sipper with all the pillars that a Japanese whisky stands on. A non-age statement from the house, it offers a mysterious play of bittersweet citruses, basil peppermint freshness, ending on a somewhat familiar tone of oak, pepper, and ginger. Serve it as a highball with juliennes of ginger and an orange slice, and let it show what Japanese youth in a bottle is.

TOKI

IWAI MARS WHISKY

Rs 4,500 (Gurugram)

Made in Japan’s highest located distiller, it was crafted by Kiichiro Iwai and draws inspiration from the greatest of American whiskies. Made primarily from corn, followed by malt and rye, aged in ex-Bourbon barrels, Iwai is quintessentially East meets West. Drink it a highball, a Bourbon Julep, or an Old Fashioned, and see it shine.

IWAI MARS WHISKY

IWAI TRADITION MARS WHISKY

Rs 5,500 (Gurugram)

Inspired from the blended Scotch template, Iwai Tradition captures the confluence of malts that are carefully aged in a mix of Sherry, Bourbon, and Wine casks, accentuated with a kiss of peat at the very end. The result — tartness of cherries, the sweetness of toffee, and the lingering flirt of ginger & spices.

IWAI TRADITION MARS WHISKY

KOMAGATAKE SINGLE MALT WHISKY

Rs 19,000 (Gurugram)

Located between Japan’s soaring Southern Alps and the towering Central Alps, at just over 2,600 feet, the Mars Shinshu distillery enjoys a cool temperature, offering slow maturation and an abundance of soft granite filtered snowmelt fed aquifers. Considered amongst the rarest of Japanese whiskies, its label changes every year along with its blend. It opens with a burst of sweet flavours of quince, melon, and tropical fruits, leading to nuttiness, of which hazelnut dominates, a Sherry oxidative hue, and a pleasantly smooth finish.

KOMAGATAKE SINGLE MALT WHISKY

First published in Mans World India , 2021

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Gin Is In!

Undoubtedly, it’s the golden hour for innovations in Indian spirits. And amongst them, the blue-eyed child are the new Indian gins. With a thick Indian accent, unprecedented brio, nostalgia-suffused storytelling, and endless trials of flavours, they’ve stirred up a storm, one that the country and its tipplers hadn’t seen before. It’s so engraved now that if your Instagram profile doesn’t have a picture of an Indian gin, you’ll easily be called a social outcast. So, what’ve these homegrown gins done, in only a couple of years, that’s arrested everyone’s attention? We enquire.

British gins were the first to catalogue their botanicals on the bottle, tell their stories, and mesmerise the global population with the idea. Neither were their botanicals local, nor were they the epitomes of storytelling. Yet, consequently it became the norm. “For the longest time, western gins were taking our story, our botanicals, and reselling them to us. Now, after decades, there’s increasing curiosity in knowing about Indian botanicals and stories”, notes Anand Virmani, creator of Hapusa & Greater Than. And so should it be. After all, we were on the Spice Route for a reason. Karina Aggarwal of Terai further explains, “There’s been a global cultural shift. Everyone’s interested in knowing what they’re consuming, its source, how they’ve been cultivated, traded, etc. And with Indians travelling extensively now, their understanding of ingredients has grown drastically. There’s a sense of pride in supporting homegrown produce and how many you’ve tried”. 

EFFORTLESSLY INDIAN

Indian households, mythology, ceremonies, and rituals have for long revolved around botanicals, florals, and citruses. Be it the morning prayers around the Tulsi plant, or nimbu-mirchi hanging on trucks & lorries, or betel leaves, nutmeg, rice, sugar on puja thalis, scents and flavours have forever been the thread holding our daily lives. Put all these emotions & essences in a bottle, and it’ll be hauntingly intriguing. Accepting them will come naturally. In what’s traditionally been a dark spirit market, no one has consciously allowed such an expression that these new Indian Gins have. And it makes complete sense why we’d effortlessly get allured by them, and not position them as snobbish, but somewhat our companion. Forget not, ease and convenience is what’s driving the world now anyway.

EASY ACCEPTABILITY

Anand recalls from his earlier stint, at Hendricks gin’s launch, people enquired what whiskies were being poured at the bar. Now, a decade on, people enquire about the gins on offer. Aman Thadani, creator of Pumori, calles dark spirits a tricky proposition. “Whiskies & rums have their histories, templates, ageing, cask finishes, terminologies, etc. All this makes them pretty technical. Gin on the other hand is a free and simpler playing field”. Aditya Aggarwal, founder of Samsara, adds “Gins are easier to talk about. They create a nostalgic recall, and forego the technical gyaan one has to invest in before picking a dram”. Vidur Gupta, co-founder of Stranger & Sons, echoes the thought. “Unlike years of encyclopaedic information crunching in wine studies, gins are easy. And their mixability & versatility makes it further playful.” Karina adds, “it’s also the image of dark spirits in India, a quirky whisky bottle can also be questionable, let alone how to drink it, or the glass of your choice. With gins, there are no such moulds.”

PLAY OF BOTANICALS + IDEAS

However, the spice box of the world has so much to offer, it could be easy to overdo. Even the thought of constructing a gin in India can be daunting. Greater Than was the first craft gin in the country in 2017. Anand recalls, “we had a clean slate and could do whatever. It was equally exciting and confusing. We started with 120-130 single ingredients, then started putting them together, and the final recipe had only 10-12 ingredients”. Vidur says “we have a problem of plenty in India. There’s an endless list of botanicals we know of and even bigger one of those we don’t”. However, “No single ingredient is going to trigger someone into liking a gin. It does become a differentiating factor though, one that enriches their experience”, Anand adds. 

In such a vast expanse of ingredients, then how does one construct a gin? “Your gin distills down from your concept. We wanted to make a gin that’s bold, stands out in the crowd, is inherently Indian, and resonates with London as much as it does with Delhi. And to achieve that, our homework was to taste over 300 gins!!”, Vidur reminisces. Karina opines “ though it’s a combination of various things, foremost are your personal preferences and knowing the palate of your audience. What reigns eventually is that it must be a product of provenance”. And the expression expands beyond just what’s inside the bottle. Aman puts it aptly, “put gin in a bottle versus a story, and you’ll see the difference. Before one picks a bottle, if you could tell them its inspiration and journey, the experience will grow manifolds”. Karina adds “from the label design to the bottle style, the gin needs to stand out, and have its own personality & identity. Consumers are also asking their tipples to be different, and it’s imperative that new gins do that.”

GINCREDIBLE INDIA

From these plethora of emerging ideas, one that shines is that of celebrating India. Our creators are proudly coining and nearly-boasting inscriptions like ‘India Dry’, ‘India Spirited’, ‘Himalayan Dry’ on their labels. But what are these terms and what do they signify? Like London Dry Gin, is there one that defines Indian gins? It’s simply too early to say. There’s no one India, in its geographic spread, cultural diversity, culinary spreads, languages, and attractions, there’re mere interpretations. And thats the most exciting feature in these new gins. They’ve celebrated India for Indians, that too at a time when our politics and a pandemic have divided us like never before. There’s a dire need for something that binds us together and makes us fall in love with our India again, and Indian gins are playing their part. 

Creators have very carefully and distinctly picked various features of India and put them in their bottles, on their labels, and in their stories. Haupsa, sanskrit for juniper, celebrates foraging local juniper from the snow-clad Himalayan mountains. A whiff of its gin teleports you to a rustic land with moist wood, petrichor, forest-floor, and fills you with a sense of adventure. Terai descends to the fertile & plush lowlands and has an imposing Indian accent through its fennel, tulsi, citrus, and floral hues, kindling a comforting assurance of botanicals you instantly resonate with. Stranger & Sons celebrates the Indian ghats and its agricultural diversity by putting a complex mix of spices, citruses, and aromatic botanicals in the hue. It teases you before it arrests you like a cruel mistress and doesn’t let you go. Samsara picked its botanical and aromatics reminiscing the scents at an Indian ceremony and the gin exhibits that in its floral liveliness, captivating secret citruses, and a regal khus note. And for once think, what do Himalayas, plush lowlands, the ghats, and Indian ceremonies have in common – nothing. And what’s India without either of them – nothing. And thats the play that Indian gins have mastered – there’s a union even in their diversity.

EMPOWERING THE CONSUMER

Finally, at a time of home drinking culture, where conversations around a refined drink have become the norm, gins are providing a reason to celebrate. Aditya exclaims “there’s a lot to resonate for everyone from a single sniff and sip of a gin”. Karina agrees and adds, “there’s a level of familiarity Indian gins offer, be it in the botanicals, or in their names, or designs”. Gin & Tonics have become the new norm. Vidur isn’t surprised, “we are a hot & social country, drinking chilled tall drinks makes sense”. Anand is on the same page and says “we’re in a country where whiskies are our almost national drink, but why? Drinking ideas from the EU don’t make sense in India”. Aman opines “consumers have elevated their game and for them a gin’s not a gin, a tonic’s not a tonic anymore, it’s much more”. 

Karina takes it a step ahead and claims “you can’t do anything wrong with gins, add any cordial, flavours, syrups, tonics, sodas, garnishes, throw them in any glass and it’s acceptable. Do that to a single malt whisky and you’ll get stares from every corner of the room. Unlike with some other spirits, here the consumer decides how they appreciate it. And you might be the only one who has that concoction in that pincode, which is so empowering”. And even for a humble G&T, Aditya says “there’s such sincerity in the process – cutting the fruits, getting the ice, picking garnishes, apt glassware, which elevates the aesthetics of the drink and the drinking ritual.” Sounds pretty civilised, eh!! 

India was always celebrated for its precise craftsmanship, and botanical offerings. With over a dozen gins on the shelves already, and many getting dressed to be unveiled, all in a span of 4 years, the gin revolution has been announced. There’s such promise in the category that one can’t help but anticipate more exciting introductions. If you haven’t befriended and added Indian gins to your repertoire, do it promptly. This wave isn’t calming down. 

 

First published in Sommelier India The Wine Magazine  2021

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Whether Shaken or Stirred, There’s Nothing As A Well – Mixed Cocktail

We can’t call it a complete pandemic after all. There’s some tasteful good that’s come out of it. The time off has allowed creative minds to put their ideas to play and it shows in the burgeoning Indian alco-bev space – exciting new gins, releasing craft rums, and a plethora of mixers crowding the shelves. And now, breaking the chain of conservative cocktail consumption are the new breed of bottled and canned cocktails, aka ready-to-serve (RTS). Mr Jerry’s & InACan cocktails are changing the way we perceive and imbibe our cocktails outside of those bars that have unfortunately remained shut most of this while.

 

It’s not a new category, rather it’s been a dominant one, especially for the giants. Smirnoff, Bacardi, Jack Daniels, Jim Beam, Absolut, and Malibu have already been animating the scenes with these mixes for decades. The global RTS cocktails market was valued at USD650 million in 2019, and was to grow at a pace of 21% till 2024. However, the onset of global lockdown has shifted the patterns and sent the segment on a skyrocketing trajectory, some now expecting it to garner valuations upto USD32 billion by 2024 closing. Our two homegrown Goa-based brands have brought India to add to this revolution.

Mr. Jerry's Cocktail

The sparks of genius flew during the first lockdown, in 2020, when spouses Mrinal Manu & Rincy Verghese couldn’t step out to meet their buddies over a few drams in true Goan fashion. “One evening we had Arijit Bose over. As usual he took over the bar and made some cool drinks, and we happened to discuss how fun it’d be to have a bottle of cocktail which we just open and pour and get a bar quality drink with perfection anytime”, recalls Rincy, co-founder of Mr. Jerry’s. 

From a casual discussion, things started moving fast, with phases of trials between the undisputed cocktail prince of India, Bose, and the suave ambassador of spirited times, Pankaj Balachandran, at their setup, CounterTop. “Sourcing the right ingredients wasn’t a challenge since at Blue Ocean Beverages, we make heaps of spirits and bottles for many major Indian-international brands”, says Rincy. Pankaj adds, “we decided to come up with cocktails that everyone could relate to. We created all the flavours in-house, and to maintain the authenticity of flavours we use some standard branded ingredients as well.” The first lot of Mr. Jerry’s offers 6 varieties in neat 500ml packs offering about 5 serves each at mere INR550. That’s a steal! LIIT was an obvious choice, Mrinal pushed for an Old Fashioned, Pankaj was adamant on doing a Negroni, a Cucumber Elderflower Fizz adheres to the growing gin craze, and then there are the crowd pleasing Espresso Martini & Mai Tai.

 

An ode to the great grandfather of mixology, Mr. Jerry P. Thomas, the concept was designed to please with ease. Partially because of the lockdown, the focus has stayed on capturing the retail market. “You don’t have to go out for a swanky drink, simply stay home, get Mr. Jerry’s, follow the instructions, and experience a great cocktail with precession”, Rincy exclaims. During the year-end tourist rush, they have also noted a demand from small bars who wish to serve great cocktails but don’t have an elaborate setup or a great mixologist to execute. Also, beach shacks that generally serve great food and chilled beers have taken a shine towards these cocktails. “They become efficient, limit their waste, don’t need expert staff, and earn a decent margin on these already well-crafted mixes, it’s a winner”, Pankaj observes.

Outside of Goa, Mr. Jerry’s is already making waves in Mumbai and Bengaluru. They’ve received a great welcome, especially thanks to their allowance of home delivering alcohol. And not just a few local cities, Mr. Jerry’s has already caught the attention of a few fine palates abroad and the talks are on!

Their cocktails range between 20-33% abv, and aren’t your typical rip & sip proposition. I loved their Espresso Martini, Negroni, and the Old Fashioned. And maybe since I’m going through a Mai Tai phase, it was my favourite, with all those sweet spices & nuttiness. An excited Pankaj spilled the beans and alerted me to anticipate new flavours coming out later in the year. Shhh… you didn’t hear that. 

In A Can Cocktails

The first canned cocktail in India, InACan, is putting convenience and portability first. Brainchild of Sameer Mirajkar & sommelier Viraj Sawant, the idea was conceived first in March 2020, with exhaustive R&D, foraging ingredients of provenance, that would elevate the resultant outcome. The Pune-based duo brought in the Mumbai-based champion mixologist Varun Sudhakar for product innovation and carefully fixing the mixes. With three rounds of tasting over 200 samples, created at their Goa facility, the trio fixed on 5 essential flavours – LIIT, rosemary-spiked Gin&Tonic, Whisky Collin with apple and cinnamon, a refreshing Vodka Mule, and Rum Latte which is their take on rum & cola with a twist of hazelnut. Apart from being in a can, all the drinks are carbonated, and use only natural ingredients, weigh less than 100 calories per serve, and are at a low spirited point of 9-13% abv. And at INR140 for a 250ml serve, they’re taking all the reasons why not give it a go.

 

Viraj recalls that they didn’t ever think of getting into cocktails per se, the idea was to take something conventional and innovate it. Convenience and portability of RTSs offers consumers safe access to high-quality cocktails amidst bar and restaurant restrictions. “All big countries are moving towards this segment. In 2019-2020, RTS cocktails have seen a 100x growth in SE Asia, Europe, America, and Australia. Companies like Bacardi are having a hard time keeping their products on the shelves”, Viraj comments. “While getting into this, we knew it’ll be an uphill task for a year or so, there are some obvious challenges there, but that’s everywhere”, he adds.

 

When Varun joined the team, he shared his idea with the duo of recreating a cocktail bar experience at home. They concurred about creating a quality product first, and then working out the pricing. And now that it’s already launched in Goa with exceptional success, Viraj already sees the possibility of placing them at banquets, mini bars, brunches, pool parties, in the travel sector, and at music festivals. “Opportunities are endless”, he adds. 

The mixes are meant to be drunk straight from the can, and taste even better from the glass. Rum latte was my favourite with whisky collins a close second, and the vodka mule definitely earning commendations. 

The Future

Lovers of craft beer and artisanal wines have readymade options at retail stores; cocktail fans don’t. Mr. Jerry’s and InACan have added to their choices. Consumers are driving the demand for ease, portability, and quality. RTS cocktails fit into their busy lifestyle and still taste as good as they did at their neighbourhood bars. And it’s an unprecedented era for cocktail drinking in India. Our mixology game has gone up and consumers have become conscious about what they put in their bodies, stories behind their drinks, their origins, the right etiquettes, etc. To deliver all that with ease, and class, without sacrificing the quality is the absolute key. And just as they’ve adapted to working from home, they’ve found ways to enhance entertainment and social occasions at home as well. After all, there’s something about drinking a cocktail that makes one feel civilised and it’s particularly reassuring during the time of a global pandemic. 

First published in Sommelier India The Wine Magazine

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Krsma Wines

PASSION, PATIENCE & PERSISTENCE

Tell someone India makes wines, you’ll get an absolutely surprised face! But then, tell an Indian that we make wines in Hampi Hills, and that’s a bigger shocker. And they find themselves further astonished upon tasting the wines that KRSMA Estates, the sole vintners in the archeologically rich UNESCO World Heritage tagged region, have been crafting. Yes, not producing, crafting. As they complete a decade of successful winemaking, its been one of turning odds in their favour, putting Indian wines on the world map, and redefining what human passion, patience, and persistence can yield.

If you know of KRSMA, you’d know the story of Krishna Prasad and Uma Chigurupati, christening KRSMA through the union of their names. Krishna got his first taste of wine at an early age through a bishop from the Vatican. And it arrested him like a cruel mistress that wouldn’t let go. Uma only learnt about the extent of his passion when after their marriage she moved in to their 2BHK apartment and appointed herself as their home-winery’s cellarmaster. The bug caught her too, and soon they found themselves enrolled in a winemaking course at the University of California, Davis. All this, while Krishna was engrossed in his professional pursuit of creating amongst India’s largest pharmaceutical company. In due time, with that running full-throttle, and kids settled in there disciplines, the duo shifted to their vinous desire of creating a winery. With a dream to setting up in South France and Tuscany, they chanced upon a plot in Hampi Hills in 2009 which they fell for effortlessly. It today holds the roots for KRSMA’s destiny.

The laws of international winemaking don’t apply to India, and those of Nashik & Nandi Hills to Hampi Hills. The rains are erratic in this rather arid area, with barely anything to support in miles. KRSMA’s introduction to the world could’ve been with their 2010 vintage, but destiny and nature had other plans. Judging the resultant nectar with his pharmaceutical precision, Krishna deemed the wine unfit for drinking, subsequently denying its release. “We make wines that we like drinking, if we can’t drink it, we won’t release it” he says. And it’s this approach that’s bagged them numerous awards across the globe later. Being Guinness Book of World Records awarded marathoners, their approach is one of delayed gratification. They know it’s the silent hardwork that helps on the final day. The release of their better prepared 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2012 Sauvignon Blanc in 2013 took oenophiles by surprise, with a fantastic release the following vintage too. The red was viscously smart, definitely way ahead of its time for India. The white was charming, pleasing, and as critics defined it, was ‘spring in a bottle’, which Uma cherishes as its fondest compliment. Very soon, they were pouring in culinary meccas in New York & Manhattan, earning themselves the righteous boast-worth glory. Call it Krishna’s precision, or Uma’s maternal care & adulation for her vines, KRSMA was igniting palates and minds across the world. 

2013 changed the rhythm at the winery while the crop just couldn’t justify the persona KRSMA’s  ‘reserve’ tittle. Soon, they moved to announce their second label, calling it K2, a more value-for-money proposition and a stepping foot upto the reserves. Even stronger a change came with the 2014 vintage, where the duo had to define KRSMA’s template and the two strong personalities clashed, with ultimately the cellarmaster having her way. Krishna was driven to achieve a Bordeaux-centric, restrained, and oak-oriented image for their Cabernet, while Uma was fascinated with the Napa Valley template that favoured the fruit, silky tannins, and approachability. His hands-off approach allowed Uma to toy with cellaring experiments which she cherishes and announces as one of her most prized vintages with noticeable glee.

While the story of KRSMA seems glorious, victorious, and all full of joys, it has presented many challenges and heartbreaks. Holding a Master’s degree in Soil Microbiology and Plant Pathology, Uma understand that a wine is a result of what the vineyards yield. Water scarcity in Hampi Hills is a real issue. To overcome that, KRSMA built lots of dams, charged borwells around the vineyards, and invested in rainwater harvesting. All this, just to control the soil pH and keep the vines alive. And soon they learnt how to use these arid conditions to their favour, that now demand very little intervention, and presents near absence of pest & fungal threats. Since 2014, vineyards have seen nearly 5 years of drought. However, thanks to this early change in vineyard practices, wines have been nothing short of being impressive and inspirational. The recently released 2016 vintage is testimony of that. “Viticulturally, it’s been a very challenging year, demanding a lot of personal study, trails and errors, and rejigging our harvest cycles, preponing them by a few months to harvest in cooler conditions”, she recalls. And the liquid, thus, shows unprecedented confidence and intellect. Though already 5 years old now, it’s still a baby in the cot and demands its juror the exact further patience in laying it down for another half decade the way the Chigurupati’s have maintained reaching upto the fruits it bears. “Any experiment takes about 4 years to show their impact. And now we also have a better understanding of the area and our soils. Mother Nature has shown lot of affection towards KRSMA. The last 2 years we’ve been very happy and able to change the texture of the soil, and generate microbes”, she says.

Experiments and learnings continue. KRSMA has virtually pulled out all of their Sangiovese, Chardonnay, and Chenin Blanc vines. Though Sangiovese has been the favourite for many, including myself, their Chardonnay was a rockstar. It earn’t them their first Double Gold early at the 2013 China Wine & Spirits Awards. Yet, they were just not conducive for the time. While the Chenin is gone for good, new strains have been brought in to revive other varietals, of which few will bear fruits in 2021, marking a new beginning for them all over again! In an intimate disclosure, the Chigurupati’s are now eyeing new horizons with blends and bubbles. “I would like to try blending our already proficient Cabernet and Syrah, and would love to revive our fallen varietals. We’ve experimented with Merlot and Cabernet Franc in the vineyards and give them anther chance. And, a KRSMA sparkling might be a reality soon too”, Uma reveals. 

KRSMA has turned a page in India’s winemaking history, fuelled more with passion than commercial desires. While a new brand needs big marketing push, KRSMA has one built without much efforts. While what was happening in the background was tricky, the grapes have spoke and shone for themselves. Presenting many ‘firsts’ – first in Hampi, first reserve only wines, first vintage oriented labels, first magnums, first Indians to make it to the coveted World’s 50 Best Vineyards – there’s lot more that’s expected and desired from the team. And with the way the duo have proven their mettle in their other professional pursuits, and in marathoning, their a promise in their personality to bring more glory to the potential of Indian wines and the region. Indian palates deserve better, and KRSMA seem to be leaving no stone unturned in achieving just that…

 

First published in Sommelier India The Wine Magazine

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Sula Vineyards – Ever Onwards

The near-synonym for Indian wines, Sula Vineyards, India’s largest winery, has been quietly shifting gears. It has consolidated its place as a market leader which has allowed them to focus on fine-tuning their engines and developing a new image. It shows in the confident renewed personality of their reserve wines, and new labels that are quickly gathering space on the shelves. In a conversation with Gregoire Verdin, Brand Ambassador, Karan Vasani, Chief Winemaker, and Rajeev Samant, the big CEO, Sommelier Gagan SHARMA learns about how Sula is making a subtle transition.

SULA VINEYARDS MAKING THE SHIFT – CLASSIC TO PREMIUM

Sula has always carried a new world image with more youthful, vivacious wines, much like Rajeev’s personality. For many, this wine with brilliantly smiling sun on its label is their first introduction to the drink in the country. It’s their iconic classic range that does the magic, and strives, successfully so, to deliver aromatic and fruity wines, some sporadically having a tinge of sweetness. Deriving from this success, over the past few years, Sula has now moved its focus towards adding new avatars of what they’ve already have mastered. Gregoire and Karan concur that the winemaking team has been pushed to leave no stone unturned in cashing the opportunity to experiment earnestly. And they’ve happily put on their mad scientist hats and gone hunting for more styles and expressions.

On my last trip to the winery in March, Karan did whisper toying with techniques like Carbonic Maceration, commonly used in Beaujolais and Rhone Valley reds, Appassimento from Veneto, and moving some of the bubblies to Charmat or tank-fermentation. This free-spirited experimentation has brought many new exciting labels to life. Country’s first semi-sweet Sparkling Shiraz, is hard to put down, Sula’s first oak-aged reserve white, Dindori Chardonnay, is a matured quaffer, and ‘The Source’ label wines that’re classy, suave, and intellectual.

SULA VINEYARDS OPENS THE SOURCE

The Source has been the newest range to join Sula’s family. The name comes from their namesake heritage winery resort, also country’s first, with a Tuscan twist. Their Grenache Rose, also India’s first, and the Sauvignon Blanc are the alter-egos of the classic range’s renditions. Its labels are a departure from the traditional eye-catching Sula visual identity and are best described as subtle and ‘old-school’.

Karan shares that The Source was always to be an out-of-the-box, more serious expression, with Rajeev confirming that. “It’ll remain a separate entity, just as it is right now. There’s no current need to add another wine under Sula’s umbrella”, he says. Gregoire humbly designates it as Sula’s ode its craftsmen. Wines carry a French style and spirit with the Grenache Rose being utterly dry, vibrant, made in a fruit-forward Provence style. Sauvignon Blanc is expressive, astute, austere, and has some influence of oak to further add to the personality. Rajeev adds “our Sauvignon Blanc style has changed. It use to be grassy, people thought that’s the style. Now, it’s moved to a reductive style, with more tropical flavours that’s made it more consumer friendly and enjoyable”.

Gregoire Verdin, Karan Vasani, Gagan Sharma at Sula Vineyards

These two wines have also pleasantly surprised winery’s critics, who often complained that Sula isn’t doing enough to reinvent itself and that its wines are sweet, and not serious. The Source is a classy alter-ego, I say!! Placing it in the INR1000+ price-point, considered premium in most markets, is also a statement. Yet, I’d call it ‘an affordable premium’ as the quality does justify the price tag. And to complete the brigade, soon there’ll be a red joining in!! A character-driven gentle Cabernet Sauvignon with a touch of oak.

SULA VINEYARDS’ RASA & DINDORI PROMISES AND DELIVERS

The wines that created the strongest memories from my last visit to Sula were from their reserve portfolio. The three RASA reds and especially the Dindori Chardonnay have come along well. Sula’s Rasa is an absolute blockbuster amongst any serious wine drinker with a keen eye from Indian reds. Though I loved their Syrah, I’d still place my bets on their Cabernet’s future. Karan was very generous to serve us the first ever vintage of Rasa Cabernet Sauvignon from 2012, a well-aged beauty now, that was holding perfectly well, with barely any flaws to pick. Now back in 2012, most would refrain from commenting on the promise of Indian reserve wines. Looking at that from today’s wisdom, this 8 year old Rasa Cabernet was way ahead of its time and a testament to what Indian wines were set to achieve.

Rajeev owes this change to better vineyards management techniques they’ve adopted over the years. Further, he says “it’s the sum of small changes throughout the production chain. Earlier our reds were discouraged as smokey, having tar flavours, (he chuckled when I shared we called it the ‘

’), all of that is gone. Our barrel hygiene and strategy has improved. A simple step like taking the barrel room temperature down from 19C to 14C has made the wines so different. There’s been a big up in our Rasa wines from the past and we’ll stay bullish with them”.

Gregoire, who is also the Head of Tastings, proudly shares that consumers are more and more excited about their premium reds. He returns more confident from each customer interaction, further confirming the direction of their efforts. He’s also placing his confidence in the INR1000-1500 range which he reckons holds the greatest promise in the coming years. Karan gingerly mentions most of his new projects are in that segment as well. Winds of change are flowing…

Karan Addressing #IndianVineTrail Attendees
Tasting An Ocean Of Wines Amidst An Ocean Of Barrels

SULA VINEYARDS WEIGHS IN ON ITS WHITES

As to the whites, Indian wines have proved it’s a segment that’s only bound to get better. Anyone who’s been relishing Indian whites over the decade can testify about their quality’s progression. However, Rajeev still sees it in its youth with an upwards curve. “The quality has and will continue to get better. It has now reached the point where our wines would be at par with the same varietal of any international wine, or often better. We’ve seen that specially about our whites. Our 2020 Chenin Blanc is easily our best ever produce”.

At the time of my visit, not only was I pleasantly surprised with Dindori Chardonnay, what was further impacting with what Karan mentioned next. “We’ve never had a barrel program for our whites, but now we do. We’ve specially designed these barrels and their regimen”. When the market leader like Sula makes a move like this, it’s a confirmation of where the market is headed. And the wines surely justify that. Dindori Chardonnay has the fruit-forward appeal with ample citrus and a playful oak, which pleasantly makes its presence felt, binding the subtle nuances wine together. And at INR1250, it provides the confidence to experiment with.

“Kendal Jackson Vintners Reserve was our inspiration for Dindori Chardonnay, the most selling reserve Chardonnay in America”, Rajeev confirms. It isn’t an expensive drop, and definitely resonates with a majority of drinkers. “A good Chardonnay doesn’t have to be expensive, overtly oaky, or have to age for years, it has to be enjoyable” aptly comments Karan who is proud of how the wine has turned out to be and progressed. With The Source Sauvignon also flirting with oak, Sula is bound to have more such expressions.

ALL WORK NO PLAY – NOT AT SULA VINEYARDS

But it isn’t all serious and play at Sula. As the new reserve and premium range labels are being added to their offerings, so are some playful ones. Sparkling Shiraz is a young gun that’s making Sula’s portfolio look attractive and confident. A semi-sweet, sparkling red wine is what India was missing, and Sula has done justice to it from the get-go. The packaging is utterly attractive and you one’s eyes stop at it for sure! On enquiring why this wine, Karan and Rajeev concurred on their ideas. “As a producer, you have to constantly move forward, which doesn’t necessarily mean adding new varietals.

At Sula, we keep working at the need to make wine drinking as accessible as possible. And the Sparkling Shiraz does just that. It’s big in Australia, and it’ll be big in India too”, says Rajeev with excitement. Karan simplifies, “We make a great Shiraz, our Shiraz Cabernet is India’s most sold wine. When it came to exploring what else we could do with the varietal, this definitely was an option, so why not?” It may be too early to say if India will accept this wine-style or not, but it surely is making the right noise in the market.

ANOTHER FIRST – SULA VINEYARDS’ DIA WINE-IN-A-CAN

What is also making a ton of noise and catching the eyeballs is Sula’s Dia wine-in-a-can. Launched at the SulaFest 2020, it was an instant crowd pleaser. Dia, is their 8 year old brand that has gotten a facelift and a new packaging. 330ml can at 8% alcohol, fruity, off-dry, with an accessible INR180 price tag, it checks all the boxes to be picked up and had a go at. Gregoire jumps in to confirm that they’ve been receiving a good response from the markets and the product looks promising. Things have slowed down, due to the pandemic, and the best is yet to come.

Dia Wine In A Can By Sula Vineyards

Karan says it is a product that Sula is very serious about, and it shows from their INR1 crore investment in their canning line. For Rajeev, introducing wine-in-a-can in India makes total sense. It’s not only necessitates ease of drinking, it’s also a way to expand the wine market with the ease of carrying, its utility, service, drinking, approachability and more.

Personally, I’m not a sceptic and I won’t play safe by sitting in the wait-and-watch boat. It’s a trend that’ll stay and prosper in India. However, it shouldn’t be restrict only for playful, sugar-laden wines, opportunities are plentiful and must open to serious wines as well.

WHAT’S THE VERDICT

With the wind following in Sula’s favour, which even the pandemic couldn’t alter, this army seem to be marching on, and favourably so. I’ve been an advocate of Indian wines for long, and proudly so. With a big banner, big productions, comes big challenges, which Sula has not only faced but thrived through. The change in their quality is apparent and the confidence in their new liquids speaks of the niches it’ll carve for the brand. It’s no more the time to wait and watch, but go grab one and relish…

 

First published in Sommelier India Wine Magazine in January, 2021

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What Will They Think Of Next? India’s Tryst With Wine In A Can

Two can of beer, female and male hands on the background of a beautiful, wooden surface. Top view, close-up. Concept of leisure and travel

Of the ‘coolest’ trends coming out in 2020, one has to be India’s acceptance of wine-in-a-can. Albeit Sula Vineyards putting their 8 years old brand, Dia Sparkling, in cans last year, it really exploded in the markets this year. Fratelli Vineyards joined the party with their canned red, white, sparkling, sparkling rose medium-sweet wines, called TILT, recently. While the packaging, appeal and branding are utterly exciting, wine-in-a-can concept is still in its adolescence, and most believe it may be just too early to comment on its future in the country.

Is it a fad or something to stay, Gagan SHARMA, Certified Sommelier and wine educator explores. 

PUTTING WINE IN A CAN – WHO FIRST?

The first official study about the concept was conceived nearly half a decade ago in the US, which remains the biggest wine-in-a-can market. Between 2018-2019 the market has grown by 70% in the US, and 125% in the UK alone. Traditional countries like France and Italy are joining the race as well. Returning to the US, various factors have contributed to the success of this nouveaux category.

One being the ease of carrying, storing, and serving the cans. Add to that their catchy labelling and visuals, which have become absolutely imperative for the social media and Insta-ready generation (after all, they’re the fine wine genes of the future!). Others are the ease of committing to a 180-250-330ml can over a 750ml bottle, which many find a commitment bigger than marriage, or adopting a puppy. Not just the liquid, it is a financial commitment too!!

And then think of the technical jargons one has to record and decipher – the understanding of languages, regions, sub-regions, villages, crus, vintage charts, terroirs, etc. Then comes the NASA-equivalent act of uncorking a bottle, decanting it with panache, and watching it breathe. And what follows next? You drink half, and don’t know how to store the rest, since, you know, spoilage is a science by itself. Eh! Who wants that? It’s intimidating! A peppy looking can, with bright colours, a funky name, ready to rip open, and sip away, while holding a burger, a sub, or an avocado toast in the other hand, that’s more millennial-appropriate.

MILLENNIALS – FOCUS ALL THE WAY

Millennials definitely reign over the biggest portion of this pie. But, they haven’t just stuck to the basics. In 2019, over 60 percent of craft beers were packaged in cans. And cans are becoming the container of choice for beverages, think of water, coffees, soft drinks, beers, etc. Younger consumers are now perceiving cans as premium packaging. Taking advantage of this, winemakers are now making some bold moves of putting premium wines in cans, wines that can be vineyard specific, varietal specific, even vintage dated. What’s even better is that with the replacement of corks, wines don’t fear a chance of cork taint, rapid oxidation, being skunked or light-stuck, or a variety of other such complications. Yet, red wines are still to gather acceptability, the largest group remains roses and whites. Maybe the purists are hesitant to see their beloved Bordeauxs, Super Tuscans, Aussie Cabernets, or prestigious Chilean wines in an aluminium carrier just yet. After all, as we said, we are still waiting and watching.

WINE IN A CAN – AS GOOD AS FROM THE BOTTLE?

To get the stiff old school wine-in-a-bottle drinkers to see the magic of this new avatar, wine-in-a-can producers have been running trials and blind tasting tests to see if the packaging makes any difference in the quality of the liquid. Some have found that it was nearly impossible to tell them apart, giving the industry a much-needed morale boost. It does inch us closer to believing that it may after all not just be a fad, but a trend to stay.

India has added the concept to its repertoire with commendable acceptability. The price point works too. Sula’s Dia retails at INR180 for a 330ml can, at 8% abv. While Fratelli’s TILT is at the same price mark, it pours 250ml, at a higher 11%. Having said that, for the connoisseurs of even the most basic wines they both pose a challenge. One, they both offer only bubbly wines thus far, and the other, that their wines are semi sweet or sweeter. With that comes the problem – how much sugar can you imbibe? Nonetheless, not for once have I seen even the social-drinkers not get excited on seeing the cans and jumping on to try them. If they like it or not is for later, getting enthused and providing instant acceptability is definitely promising.

WHERE DO THEY FIT?

For the hospitality space, these cans offer solutions to a plethora of traditional problems. Be it spoilage, storing, portion size, disposal of glass, confusing glassware and their maintenance, easy service protocols, resolved staff training and development, being great for mini bars, in-room-dining, brunches, pool side parties, at banquets, and much more. However, is it ready to be accepted as that, only time will tell.

Some believe it will be a long wait before they are. And what about their future? Radlers, cocktails, premixes, flavoured wines? Who knows, but there’re definitely possibilities, opportunities, and innovations awaiting. Till then, you must get a can for yourself, of a few maybe, throw them in a chiller, try them for yourself and see if they satiate your wine cravings. Or do you miss the ritual of opening a bottle and a fine sommelier’s story telling too much?

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All You Mead Is Love

Here’s a story of a drink you may have never heard of. It’s mentioned in the vedas, Mahabharata, Lord of the Rings, Games of Throne, Hobbit, and many such sagas. Possibly the oldest drink on the planet, Mead is a fermented honey drink which was also Lord Indra’s favourite. It has made a comeback to India, thanks to the duo of Nitin Vishwas and Rohan Rehani, who’re leaving no stones unturned in ensuring it reaches our cups with Moonshine Meadery.

Rohan Rehani + Nitin Vishwas – Duo Behind Moonshine Meadery

INCEPTION OF A MEADERY

Many success stories start from its creators brewing an idea in a garage for years before one of them takes the leap. Rohan and Nitin did that, quite literally – from being novice homebrewers to becoming Asia’s first licensed meadery, which took them nearly half a decade. Nitin had an epiphany while reading about meads on an international flight. Upon landing, he tried convincing his childhood pal, Rohan, about re-introducing this heritage drink to India. They had nothing to base their plans and projections on, nor had any directions to follow since there were no pre-existing benchmarks or studies to learn from, thanks to the complete absence of a meaderies in the continent.

A few years of procrastination later, they finally approached the state excise department in March 2016, only to learn meads didn’t qualify for a licence under prevailing laws. Then started the long and exhausting bureaucratic process. Meanwhile, they not only set up their production site, just outside Pune, Rohan even quit his cushy job and enrolled himself into a full-time bee-keeping programme at the Central Bee Research Institute. He patiently chased the excise department consistently on the side. Nearly two years later, when they were nearing losing hopes, the news of mead finally being intronised in the Maharashtra Excise filled them with renewed excitement in July 2017. And, thus, Moonshine Meadery was born, or rather we should say, a revolution was born.

NOW WE MAKE MEAD – HIT AND MISS TO PERFECTION

The duo ran over 200 trials before they created their first meads. To save costs, they self-built a ton of equipments on their own, had a long-standing problem of filtering their final product, labelled the bottles with hand, and delivered orders in their personal vehicles. The first meads that entered the market were the Apple Cyder with Kashmiri apples and Coffee Mead with Karnataka-grown beans. Nitin recalls knowing nothing about the liquor trade when they launched in February 2018. Their friends came to the rescue. They received lessons in the sweetness level of their drinks, product pricing in retail, how to have them priced on restaurants’ menus, in trading and distribution, training and education, and often in humility. Nitin remembers posting himself as a part-time promoter at various liquor stores. He was even asked to shave his beard, and wear nothing but solid shirts. That made him learn about the magnitude of work involved, which made him depart from his corporate suit-tie-cufflink avatar in January 2018. He wears an insatiable smile while reminiscing about the early days. 

Mead Lab Series

LEARNING ABOUT HONEY + EXPERIMENTING IN THE LABS

Rohan is the honey master of the meadery. He created a network during his bee-keeping programme and now sources honey from Maharashtra, Punjab, and Uttarakhand. He recalls meeting with small farmers while searching for varietal honey, which can be rather tricky to spot in india. From there, they met with a flourishing honey aggregator (trader) who educated them about the sourcing business and often financially supported them too. Today the meadery uses seven types of honey between their flagship meads – coffee, apple cyder, and traditional – and the search for more styles is on-going. They use them in different permutations for their experimental range called the MeadLab series. MeadLab is a fun concept of creating more exciting variants with flavour combinations that the sales team, clients, friends, professionals, or their customers suggest. They’ve already created over 15 different styles like cucumber, mango, earl grey, guava chilli, orange chocolate, christmas apple pie, smoked bacon, and bourbon oaked apple. Kokum and sea salt and cocoa husk were amongst my top rankers.

When asked, why such a wide variety of flavours, Nitin chuckles while sharing that honey was always the base of historic alcohols made from fermented fruits. Using flavours in honey drinks has come through the evolution of civilisation and they’re humbly reviving the practice. He also stresses on the importance of seasonality. Honey changes seasonally, so does the basket of fruits, florals, spices, vegetables, and other ingredients. Put the two together and, well, you get two things, ins’t it? One, the confirmation that mead is a craft natural beverage with nearly no possibility of creating a consistency in batches. And the other, the uncountable possibility of showcasing the irresistible flavours fresh to the season while keeping mead as a base. And that fine balance of nature-meets-business Moonshine Meadery has managed to strike very well. 

VISITING THE MEADERY

Before the national lockdown, I made my maiden visit to the meadery in Pune. Though I’m allergic to honey, tasting that array of beautiful raw nectars shall remain an imposing life-altering moment. There were honey that tasted of orange blossoms, berries, eucalyptus, mustard, rosewood, and carom seeds or Ajwain. Meads are gluten free, vegan-safe, and lower in calories than beers. Once honey is sourced, it’s diluted with RO water and left to interact with Champagne yeast that takes upto two weeks to ferment it dry. Once it settles, it’s filtered, bottled, pasteurised, and labeled. Moonshine has collaborated with several artists to have their labels designed, which makes their bottles a collectable proposition. And they can be held on the shelves for long.

Meads, unlike beers or ciders, don’t have an expiry date, rather they get better with age. The honey flavours get further amalgamated in the drink, developing layers of complexity, and shining brighter on the palate with time. Colours also deepen. We tasted youthful and older meads, served at room temperature, which tasted much better than when chilled. Of course, this also varies from the style of mead being served, which further urges the consumers to experiment and find their own favourite style of imbibing this elixir of gods and vikings.

DIVERSIFICATION IN MEADS

To further make their offerings exciting, Moonshine Meadery is now working with Maharashtra’s tribal communities to source strains of some sacred honey. They had to painstakingly convince them that their beloved nectar won’t be exploited for commercial purposes and it’ll be held with utmost regard. Nitin shares that some tribes pray for a week before even entering the forest and heavily guard their trails to ensure no one could trace it, securing their liquid gold like a lioness protecting her cubs. These meads yield upto 13% alcohol and fetch upto INR6000 for a 750ml portion. It reminded me of the oxidised wines of Jura or a well-crafted Olorosso sherry, partially piney and resiny, utterly complex and layered with notes of sap, savouriness, animally character, sweet tobacco, and earth. On the palate, it stood astute with ethereal acidity, and an everlasting aftertaste. It wasn’t available for sale during our visit.

MATI MEAD PROJECT – LIQUID GOLD

The tribal honey mead will be a part of a bigger offering called the ‘Mati Project’. It will feature different batches of special meads, produced from single origin honey from various parts of India, accentuating their special characteristics. The plan is to work with local potters to design special earthenware bottles in which they’ll be sold. Meads, like wines, can be barrel aged, and some of the Mati meads may see some maturation depending on their individual personality and style. Since meads don’t oxidise either, Mati meads will be able to withstand the test of time over decades, and it’ll start at the meadery with a minimum six months ageing prior to release. Bottles will read ‘best after’ date, further stressing the urge to hold on to the liquid for a rather special occasion. Such liquid definitely demands and justifies a higher tag. Yet, they won’t be even a fraction of the price of your favourite Bordeaux. If you are a proud guardian of a discerning palate, keep an eye on their release as they’ll be small batch produce. 

WHAT DO I THINK OF MEADS? THE FUTURE?

So, for anyone approaching a mead must bear in mind that it isn’t a beer or a cider, and must be treated as a drink by itself. There’s way more mysticism and romance in the liquid, and definitely holds more promise than other low alcohol ferments. It’s a category that’s bound to grow rapidly and earn its spot on our shelves and the list of favourites for our Friday evening soirees. It doesn’t take too long to befriend the taste of meads, but it stays on like a cruel mistress, arresting your desire of stopping at one. And lets not forget what Albert Einstein said – if the bee disappears from the surface of the earth, man would have no more than four years to live. Now remember when you’re drinking meads next time, you’re making a small contribution towards keeping the planet alive. 

Stay alive and drink more meads, after all all you mead is love!!

True Story Bro
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Chardonnay In India Is Weaving A Revolution!

A new wine producer’s primary task is to understand the relationship between the vines, climate cycles, and the potential of the land at disposal. In India, this gets even tougher, simply because we’re off the universal grape belt of 30-50 North/South of the equator. Conventional viticultural principles don’t apply to our geography. Yet, with every passing vintage, Indian winemakers are understanding this trio better, allowing themselves an ever-growing confidence to experiment. In my recent trip to Nasik, I noticed one such continuous experiment finally bearing fruits. It’s the oak-oriented Chardonnays which India has been working on for 20 years now. They not only look most exciting and diverse, but also hold a massive promise for the future which we are yet to realise.

INDIAN CHARDONNAYS BEGIN WITH VINTAGE WINES

Unlike in other countries, growing Chardonnay wasn’t easy in India. Majority of this had to do with the psyche of the farmers. To begin with they were shy to experiment and, even though some agreed, they weren’t very happy with the results. The yields were negligible with marginal quality, and, of course, there wasn’t much demand in the first place. This burdened the winemakers to buy crops at enormous rates, making it a financial and strategic nightmare to fail at.

However, Yatin Patil, Director of Vintage Wines, recalls the economic risk, yet allowed his passion for the varietal to reign. He was undeniably the first one to take the grape to farm in 2000. Their 2005 harvest became India’s first varietal, unoaked Chardonnay. And with the arrival of new oak barrels in December that year, their 2006 crush gifted India its first barrel-fermented Chardonnay. It’s an unignorable personality with exuberant tropical fruitiness with a backbone of a strong oak accent, overall making a brilliant treat for the palate. And, let me boast, it still remains an epitome of an Indian winemaker’s courage. With Reveilo’s Reserve Chardonnay, India definitely marked the arrival of a wine-style that’ll be followed for the decades to come. Vintage Wines today solely uses Italian clones and self-grows all their Chardonnay crops. 

IN COMES FRATELLI WINES

The Italians were to take notice of this, and Fratelli Wine’s dynamic winemaker duo of Alessio Secci and Piero Masi did just that. They planted their first Chardonnay vines in 2007 in Motewadi and the following year at Garwar. They too had to begin on their own. Alessio developed the vines at their winery’s site before passing them to the farmers in 2015. To offset the initial financial risk farmers feared, they not only paid them a high per kilo price, but also offered a minimum guarantee plan, which worked in their favour.

Piero proudly submitted that he found their soils’ mineral characteristics similar to that of Burgundy. It moved them to introduce Burgundian clones to the sites. Alessio adds that it’s the minerality of their sites, combined with the highly qualitative clones that makes all the difference. And, probably, that’s why there’s no one that produces as many shades of Chardonnays in the country as they do.

They initiated oak integration with their iconic Blue Label Chardonnay in the initial year, however it’s now a virgin, unoaked expression. The urge for a completely oak-oriented Chardonnay was still bubbling somewhere in the back of their creative minds. This gave birth to their French oak barrel-fermented Vitae Chardonnay, which gained instant attention. I remember promptly lauding its quality of oak integration, lees influence, and minerality. In the times to come, the Vitae range, which also had a single vineyard Sangiovese, and an aromatic blended wine with Muller Thurgau and Gewürztraminer became a symbol of gutsy experimentation from the house. However, it has lately been delisted to make space for a new identity.

Its juices now contribute to the highly-regarded J’noon and JCB47 labels, born from the collaboration between Fratelli Wines, the Italian duo, and the enigmatic Burgundian, Jean Claude Boisset. It’s a limited release, small batch production which was destined for international markets alone, with a humble allocation

Tanks Bearing Chardonnay At Vintage / Reveilo Wines
Fratelli Wines Vitae Chardonnay

As Alessio confirms, “JCB takes the lead in the blending process and aims at bringing a taste of their own culture. He’s been instrumental at helping the label going in the Burgundy direction, which was Piero’s founding idea with the varietal.” When asked why JCB would invest in Indian Chardonnays, Alessio points out that it reminds him of the Burgundy soil from back home. Now, J’noon uses a 60-40 blend of barrel-fermented to stainless steel Chardonnay, while JCB47 is a high-quality bubbly with a base of 100% barrel-fermented wine with a long 24 months lees ageing. There’s a J’noon red as well, however, it’s the white sibling that’s captured the attention since its first introduction of the 2016 vintage which only produced 2600 bottles.

MAGIC OF HAMPI HILLS – A KRSMA OF SORTS

From Nasik to Akluj, the next Chardonnay crops were being planted in the then yet-to-be-celebrate Hampi Hills in Karnataka. KRSMA Estates planted their Chardonnay vines in 2009 which were first bottled in the 2013 vintage. They envisioned the combined influences of this virgin terroir, cool resting nights, and the unique soil type yielding a commendable expression. Vintage and Fratelli Wines had already arrived on the scene, KRSMA had taken notice of their potential. Krishna Prasad Chigurupati, owner of KRSMA Estates, strongly believed that Hampi Hills’ Chardonnay could create a niche of its own.

The initial vintages aimed at displaying the promise of the fruit, sans the wood. They kept toying with ripeness levels and winemaking styles before, in 2017, their Chardonnay interacted with oak for three months. It was partially their curiosity and growing confidence, partially the changing consulting winemaker. I remember tasting a very young expression of the wine where the liquid and oak were yet to become a single entity. A few cellaring years later, it yielded a beautifully harmonious amalgamation. Unfortunately though, the promise lasted only as long. After five successful vintages, vines demanded more nutrients than the soil could offer. In a hard decision, KRSMA Estates had to uproot the varietal. It was one of those styles that held enormous promises, but had to see an early departure. 

Chardonnay Bunches At KRSMA Estates

YORK & SULA JOINS THE PARTY

While this was happening in Hampi, back in Nasik the two neighbours York Wines and Sula Vineyards were gearing up for their expressions. Winemaker and the creative genius behind York’s wines, Kailash Gurnani, believed that making a good Chardonnay is a virtual pat on your back in the winemaking world. And his desire to make something beyond the famous whites and reds in India – Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon – drew him closer to the varietal. He realised the potential in Indian Chardonnays during the trials at Chandon India.

He planted his first Chardonnay vines in 2014 and increased plantation the following year. 2018 was Kailash’s first crush of the varietal, which was released as India’s first single vineyard Chardonnay, called H-Block. The name comes from the section on his plantation where the vines were planted. The H-Block stands out from other oak-influenced Chardonnays in India. It isn’t a typical heavily oak-influenced wine, nor would I qualify it as a fruit-forward one. It accentuates the plot’s expression and its minerality stands out amongst all the whites in the valley. It’s primarily a stainless steel fermented wine with some portion fermenting in used French oak barrels.

As he explains, “oak in wines is like salt in food. A winemaker must only use it enough to enhance the flavours. The aim is to make an overall harmonious and memorable recipe, not to glorify its parts”. 4000 bottles of H-Block were released in the first vintage and have now grown to 6700 in 2020. I’ve always lauded Kailash’s winemaking style and philosophy, it has a minimalistic approach and a strong confidence for experimentation. Though H-Block is a single vineyard wine, he would neither like it to be marketed as one, nor as a reserve wine. He sees a growing potential in the style, and, with demands soaring, it may not remain a wine of single vineyard origin.

While returning from the trip, I wasn’t surprised that I only picked Chardonnays to bring along. At the helm of it was Sula Vineyards Dindori Reserve Chardonnay. Karan Vasani, Sula’s chief winemaker, has done an excellent job of creating a consumer-friendly wine that has exuberant fruit, balanced oak integration, packaged under an eye-catching label, at a price point that allows the denizens to take a chance. Not only was this to be their first tryst with the varietal, but to label it under their iconic Dindori range must’ve taken some determination.

Karan shares their first vintage was in 2018 with about 1000 cases in production. It was exclusively sold at the winery. From there, the confidence soared, and now the production has grown five folds. In its introductory vintage, they brought new French oak barrels, hence only some portion went through barrel fermentation. In the following vintages, lesser new oak is used, with additions of a few experimental American oak barrels. Whatever their experiments be, they seem to be fairing out well. I have my eyes set on their future expressions for sure. 

York Wines H Block Chardonnay
Chardonnay Of The Future

WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD?

Indian Chardonnays are definitely beyond their teething stages. The promise is immense and winemakers are backing their experiments through the growing demand for the varietal. Piero Masi suggests that it can be the grape of the future, as long as guaranteed quality is achieved within a price range. Fratelli has done well with four different expressions. But he does add that it’s still challenging to grow good Chardonnay in India. He suggests holding a strong control in the vineyards. “Fratelli initially produced 13,000 bottles of their Chardonnay Blue Label, which now has grown to 100,000 bottles!!” says Alessio

Yatin Patil confidently says that Chardonnay quantities have definitely grown the most for them. And there’s further scope. He opines the key is to keep experimenting, understanding the varietal better, and aligning with consumers’ ever-altering palates. In India, fruit forward wines with some  complexity work best. The moment they get too oaky, consumers move away. Thus, it’s imperative to understand and adapt to changes, and not try to imitate an international style.

Karan Vasani is pleasantly surprised with the response, he didn’t anticipate Chardonnay will be an easy sell. Now he’s confident about putting his money on it as the style for the future. He sees a magnitude of versatility in the category and suggests consumers must try the full spectrum. He’s noted a growth in Chardonnay plantations and considers it a safe varietal to grow. He does add that Chardonnay crops are more expensive than any other white varietal being grown in India, justifying the higher price tag.

WHAT I THINK?

I’m a convert. Indian Chardonnays is where I’m putting my bets. Indian palates have definitely evolved and gotten refined. Our consumers have become smarter with their choices, and more inquisitive about what they’re drinking. They wish to learn the story behind their liquids, and Indian Chardonnays definitely have a story worth narrating. I see Indian Chardonnays being an excellent vehicle through which Indian palates can adapt to drinking oaky whites, and lean towards experimentation. It wouldn’t be surprising to see Indian Chardonnays picking awards and becoming a definitive style globally. India is seen as a hot country, and our chardonnays may just shatter that image and open minds of international drinkers as well. Much like our sparkling wines, and oaked Cabernets (blends) I’m sure to carry a few bottles of desi Chardonnays on my international tasting trips, with utter pride and passion.