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Indian Gin

Undoubtedly, it’s the golden hour for innovations in Indian spirits. And amongst them, the blue-eyed child are the new Indian gins. With a thick Indian accent, unprecedented brio, nostalgia-suffused storytelling, and endless trials of flavours, they’ve stirred up a storm, one that the country and its tipplers hadn’t seen before. It’s so engraved now that if your Instagram profile doesn’t have a picture of an Indian gin, you’ll easily be called a social outcast. So, what’ve these homegrown gins done, in only a couple of years, that’s arrested everyone’s attention? We enquire.

British gins were the first to catalogue their botanicals on the bottle, tell their stories, and mesmerise the global population with the idea. Neither were their botanicals local, nor were they the epitomes of storytelling. Yet, consequently it became the norm. “For the longest time, western gins were taking our story, our botanicals, and reselling them to us. Now, after decades, there’s increasing curiosity in knowing about Indian botanicals and stories”, notes Anand Virmani, creator of Hapusa & Greater Than. And so should it be. After all, we were on the Spice Route for a reason. Karina Aggarwal of Terai further explains, “There’s been a global cultural shift. Everyone’s interested in knowing what they’re consuming, its source, how they’ve been cultivated, traded, etc. And with Indians travelling extensively now, their understanding of ingredients has grown drastically. There’s a sense of pride in supporting homegrown produce and how many you’ve tried”. 

EFFORT LESSLY INDIAN

Indian households, mythology, ceremonies, and rituals have for long revolved around botanicals, florals, and citruses. Be it the morning prayers around the Tulsi plant, or nimbu-mirchi hanging on trucks & lorries, or betel leaves, nutmeg, rice, sugar on puja thalis, scents and flavours have forever been the thread holding our daily lives. Put all these emotions & essences in a bottle, and it’ll be hauntingly intriguing. Accepting them will come naturally. In what’s traditionally been a dark spirit market, no one has consciously allowed such an expression that these new Indian Gins have. And it makes complete sense why we’d effortlessly get allured by them, and not position them as snobbish, but somewhat our companion. Forget not, ease and convenience is what’s driving the world now anyway.

EASY ACCEPTABILITY

Anand recalls from his earlier stint, at Hendricks gin’s launch, people enquired what whiskies were being poured at the bar. Now, a decade on, people enquire about the gins on offer. Aman Thadani, creator of Pumori, calles dark spirits a tricky proposition. “Whiskies & rums have their histories, templates, ageing, cask finishes, terminologies, etc. All this makes them pretty technical. Gin on the other hand is a free and simpler playing field”. Aditya Aggarwal, founder of Samsara, adds “Gins are easier to talk about. They create a nostalgic recall, and forego the technical gyaan one has to invest in before picking a dram”. Vidur Gupta, co-founder of Stranger & Sons, echoes the thought. “Unlike years of encyclopaedic information crunching in wine studies, gins are easy. And their mixability & versatility makes it further playful.” Karina adds, “it’s also the image of dark spirits in India, a quirky whisky bottle can also be questionable, let alone how to drink it, or the glass of your choice. With gins, there are no such moulds.”

PLAY OF BOTANICALS + IDEAS

However, the spice box of the world has so much to offer, it could be easy to overdo. Even the thought of constructing a gin in India can be daunting. Greater Than was the first craft gin in the country in 2017. Anand recalls, “we had a clean slate and could do whatever. It was equally exciting and confusing. We started with 120-130 single ingredients, then started putting them together, and the final recipe had only 10-12 ingredients”. Vidur says “we have a problem of plenty in India. There’s an endless list of botanicals we know of and even bigger one of those we don’t”. However, “No single ingredient is going to trigger someone into liking a gin. It does become a differentiating factor though, one that enriches their experience”, Anand adds. 

In such a vast expanse of ingredients, then how does one construct a gin? “Your gin distills down from your concept. We wanted to make a gin that’s bold, stands out in the crowd, is inherently Indian, and resonates with London as much as it does with Delhi. And to achieve that, our homework was to taste over 300 gins!!”, Vidur reminisces. Karina opines “though it’s a combination of various things, foremost are your personal preferences and knowing the palate of your audience. What reigns eventually is that it must be a product of provenance”. And the expression expands beyond just what’s inside the bottle. Aman puts it aptly, “put gin in a bottle versus a story, and you’ll see the difference. Before one picks a bottle, if you could tell them its inspiration and journey, the experience will grow manifolds”. Karina adds “from the label design to the bottle style, the gin needs to stand out, and have its own personality & identity. Consumers are also asking their tipples to be different, and it’s imperative that new gins do that.”

GINCREDIBLE INDIA

From these plethora of emerging ideas, one that shines is that of celebrating India. Our creators are proudly coining and nearly-boasting inscriptions like ‘India Dry’, ‘India Spirited’, ‘Himalayan Dry’ on their labels. But what are these terms and what do they signify? Like London Dry Gin, is there one that defines Indian gins? It’s simply too early to say. There’s no one India, in its geographic spread, cultural diversity, culinary spreads, languages, and attractions, there’re mere interpretations. And thats the most exciting feature in these new gins. They’ve celebrated India for Indians, that too at a time when our politics and a pandemic have divided us like never before. There’s a dire need for something that binds us together and makes us fall in love with our India again, and Indian gins are playing their part. 

Creators have very carefully and distinctly picked various features of India and put them in their bottles, on their labels, and in their stories. Haupsa, sanskrit for juniper, celebrates foraging local juniper from the snow-clad Himalayan mountains. A whiff of its gin teleports you to a rustic land with moist wood, petrichor, forest-floor, and fills you with a sense of adventure. Terai descends to the fertile & plush lowlands and has an imposing Indian accent through its fennel, tulsi, citrus, and floral hues, kindling a comforting assurance of botanicals you instantly resonate with. Stranger & Sons celebrates the Indian ghats and its agricultural diversity by putting a complex mix of spices, citruses, and aromatic botanicals in the hue. It teases you before it arrests you like a cruel mistress and doesn’t let you go. Samsara picked its botanical and aromatics reminiscing the scents at an Indian ceremony and the gin exhibits that in its floral liveliness, captivating secret citruses, and a regal khus note. And for once think, what do Himalayas, plush lowlands, the ghats, and Indian ceremonies have in common – nothing. And what’s India without either of them – nothing. And thats the play that Indian gins have mastered – there’s a union even in their diversity.

EMPOWERING THE CONSUMER

Finally, at a time of home drinking culture, where conversations around a refined drink have become the norm, gins are providing a reason to celebrate. Aditya exclaims “there’s a lot to resonate for everyone from a single sniff and sip of a gin”. Karina agrees and adds, “there’s a level of familiarity Indian gins offer, be it in the botanicals, or in their names, or designs”. Gin & Tonics have become the new norm. Vidur isn’t surprised, “we are a hot & social country, drinking chilled tall drinks makes sense”. Anand is on the same page and says “we’re in a country where whiskies are our almost national drink, but why? Drinking ideas from the EU don’t make sense in India”. Aman opines “consumers have elevated their game and for them a gin’s not a gin, a tonic’s not a tonic anymore, it’s much more”. 

Karina takes it a step ahead and claims “you can’t do anything wrong with gins, add any cordial, flavours, syrups, tonics, sodas, garnishes, throw them in any glass and it’s acceptable. Do that to a single malt whisky and you’ll get stares from every corner of the room. Unlike with some other spirits, here the consumer decides how they appreciate it. And you might be the only one who has that concoction in that pincode, which is so empowering”. And even for a humble G&T, Aditya says “there’s such sincerity in the process – cutting the fruits, getting the ice, picking garnishes, apt glassware, which elevates the aesthetics of the drink and the drinking ritual.” Sounds pretty civilised, eh!! 

India was always celebrated for its precise craftsmanship, and botanical offerings. With over a dozen gins on the shelves already, and many getting dressed to be unveiled, all in a span of 4 years, the gin revolution has been announced. There’s such promise in the category that one can’t help but anticipate more exciting introductions. If you haven’t befriended and added Indian gins to your repertoire, do it promptly. This wave isn’t calming down. 

 

First published in Sommelier India The Wine Magazine

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India’s Rosé Wines Bloom To A New High

I wonder how it feels to be a crowdpleaser, yet struggle for an identity at wine stores, restaurants, or in a tasting lineup. Does it feel like you’re teachers’ favourite student, but when the bell rings and all your pals gather to play together, no one bats a glance at you? You want to be popular amongst them, but no one cares to acknowledge your presence? Your teachers come to comfort you and reassure that your time will come, but will your time really ever come? And anyway straight A’s and being your teachers’ favourite doesn’t guarantee you success in life. I reckon that’s what rosé wines have been since the beginning of time. They’ve pleased more thirsty tourists and virgin oenophiles, beaten more summers, and rocked harder than any other vino at parties. Yet, they seem like an outcast and undernourished, far from the affection and regard they deserve. They’ve perpetually remained the biggest underdogs amongst any wine style in the history of the world. But, India seems to be gleaming in the silent glory of its rosés. Has its time finally come?

A Growing Brigade

India has grown to be a strong winemaker, more matured and confident a playground. Look at what it has achieved in the last decade alone, in winemaking, new labels, international collaborations, accolades, and creating its own genre of tourism. Young Indian winemaking talents are sharing top podiums worldwide, bringing fresher thoughts and verve in the game. They’re not following what the books tell them, after all, they were neither written in India, nor for Indians. Our winemakers haven’t let their wings of aspirations be clipped under balance sheets & P&Ls, and the rosés they’ve crafted are a testimony of that free spirited flight. Between the prominent brands, there’re unprecedented experimentations and reinventions in styles, and increasing toying with varietals. Fratelli Vineyards has their classic Shiraz and MS Sangiovese rosé, Sula Vineyard’s blush Zinfandel has been a milestone and they’re the first to make one with Grenache under The Source umbrella. York Vineyards too took the Zinfandel route, while Vallonne Vineyards are the first and the sole Cabernet Sauvignon rosé makers. Grover Zampa Vineyards Shiraz rosé needs no introduction, and then there’s Reveilo Wines with their current experimental Nero di Avola rendition. That’s six varietals between six makers!! Did you even realise that? For a category which isn’t the bread-winner for any winemaker, this is an amazing feat. It’s hard to find another new winemaking country that has done such wonders in the category, setting India apart! Not to mention, the unfairly dealt hand of our geographic location, crisp winemaking history for most producers, and a monster constantly bogging them down called the excise system.

Why Rosé Wines At All?

So, what makes rosés so special in India? There’s a delicious ratatouille of factors that makes them a phenomenal proposition. Firstly, they’re climate friendly. India’s fairly warm climate promotes experimenting with red varietals. “Weather ensures optimum ripeness and injects a generous dosage of sweet flavours that makes rosés taste fruity even when they’re dry, which’s what we prefer making”, says York Vineyard’s Kailash Gurnani. He adds, “it also allows winemakers to play with different shades of colours, textures, and tannin levels”. Sanket Gawand from Vallonne Vineyards agrees in entirety. He says this has allowed them to make a rather confident move of producing a Cabernet Sauvignon rosé. This basket of varietal also challenges the winemakers, and that’s where they thrive. They’ve to ensure they pick the right varietal, apply the right winemaking techniques, and bring out the most conducive rendition of the selected varietal, while being commercially viable. It pushes them to use their senses, apply their experiences and intuitions, and display their talents. And who’s victorious in all this? The consumer! It allow them choices at large.

The Rosé Wines Bridge That Pleases All

Secondly, it satiates all sorts of palates, from the amicable ones to the serious ones. They even work as a bridge between the fruity, citrus, light, and seldom oaked whites and the bodacious, tannic, chewy reds. It’s a no-brainer, chill them, put them on the table, and watch them vanish effortlessly. The ease of their haunting aromas, a soothing mix of red fruits and florals, vivacious citrus notes, round texture, all held together with teasing flirt of powdery tannins is alluring to any palate. 

Rosé Wines Loves Food Loves Rosé Wines

And thirdly, though I’m completely against the notion of pairing foods with Indian wines, or vice versa, they are the preferred choice on tables with majority of cuisines. At Vallonne’s Malaka Spice, you’ll easily see a rosé being uncorked at every second table. Sula and Fratelli’s premium rosés are gastronomic and deserve being on any degustation menu. I remember having a dinner at York’s and calling for additional rosé bottles while we already had their entire spread of liquids poured in our glasses. So, a pro tip here, when in doubt, call for a rosé, and make it Indian!! Thank me later.

The Demand For Rosé Wines Swells

Now put these factors together and it explains why their sales have only soared, even during the pandemic. “On both our rosés, sales have skyrocketed in the last two years”, indicates Fratelli’s Alessio Secci. Sanket shares, “since our first production in 2011, we’ve always depleted our rosé stocks”. All this, is a window into the potential of the category. It’s interesting to note that Vishal Kadakia, a proficient importer of fines wines, at WinePark, has also upped the tally of roses in his portfolio. “During the lockdown, demand for rosés grew like never before. We realised, people have identified them as a wine in itself, and not as a go between reds and whites. This encouraged us to increase our rosés selection. From earlier having only one South African rosé, today we have five, with different grape varietals, such as classical Provence style blend, Merlot, Rondinella, and Syrah from Italy, France, and South Africa”.

Premiumisation of Rosé Wines

What catches my attention is the premiumisation of the category. Fratelli’s MS Sangiovese rosé and Sula’s The Source Grenache rosé have elevated the game with their iconic styles and price points too. Putting them in the INR1000+ category is a rather gutsy move. It signifies their confidence, states that these labels are equally discerning amidst their reserve reds, oaked whites, and aged bubblies. And paying that premium will deliver a drinking experience the’ll renew your perception about the category, elevating their tippling rituals. Mind you, these are their second labels. Fratelli already had a Shiraz rosé, made by bleeding method, which Alessio describes as richer in colour, with spicy and aromatic notes, juicy, delivering good freshness. Why the need to make another one then? “MS Sangiovese rosé shows the soil of Akluj that adds minerality to the wine. Sangiovese has naturally higher acidity, and without much thick a skin, it gives a softer, lighter wine with richer aromatics”. Talks of minerality in Indian rosés, who would’ve though? 

Tale of Two Rosé Wines

Sula’s Zinfandel rosé was an ode to America’s love for their ‘blush’ ‘White Zinfandel’. They are darker, sweeter, and utterly playful with ripe red fruits, bubblegum, and a slight crunch at the back. Karan Vasani, Chief Winemaker at Sula opines “consumers have come to realise rosés aren’t just ‘frivolous’ anymore. Look at the difference between MS rosé, The Source, and Vallonne’s Cabernet rosé, they are the world apart, and that is super exciting”. Gregoire Verdin, Sula’s Brand Ambassador, distinguishes their two rosés by saying, “The Source aims at creating a distinct personality, hence, the departure from that giant smiling sun on the labels. They’re much serious, gastronomic wines, made on the French template. Grenache is a beautiful grape to show the provence style, and I’m excited to carry it back to France and show it to my family”. Rajeev Samant proudly calls it ‘affordable premium’, I concur. 

And this segment elevation isn’t lauded just domestically. Fratelli’s MS rosé was celebrated internationally when it became the first Indian wine to bag a gold medal for its 2018 vintage at the Sommelier Wine Awards, 2019. Decanter World Wine Awards, 2020 coveted Sula’s Source Grenache rosé  with a Bronze Award. And, I’m sure that’s just the start.

What The Future Holds?

It’s incredible how far in such little time our winemakers have come. It’s imperative to realise their flight of confidence in experimentation is controlled by the palates of our locals. Estimated 75% of Indian wines are consumed domestically, and amongst them rosés are a bullish. It’s a category thats filled with base level examples, which has beautifully set itself to only rise from hereon. Look out for more exciting avatars coming out and premiumising the game. Be prepared to experiment and find new experiences between a watermelon-hued to an onion-skinned and a salmon coloured chilled glass. And no, this isn’t only for the ladies in the house, it’s for men too. They look sexy when they vibe together on a bottle of rosé, or shall we say Brosé.

First published in Spiritz Magazine, June 2021

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Summer In A Glass

Yay!! Summers here. It’s time to host endless brunches (or drunches!!), poolside parties, and balmy evening rooftop soirees. And while at them what fits well is something that makes you move the least, and pours the most. Something you don’t have to put together endless inventive ingredients for, stir, shake, and muddle, into a library of fancy glasswares to fix a decent quaffer. And think of the repeats, lord mercy!! It’s the time to simply pop open a bottle, share it with your tribe, and laze sans the effort. Kiss your dark spirits and complex cocktails away, and traverse to your wine cellars, its time for them to make you look effortlessly suave, and lift the mood.

For a true oenophile every wine is a perfect summer wine, but when the mercury drops, you need a vino that’s served cooler than your AC blasts. They must be served chilled, have refreshing high acidity, preferably have no or very little tannins, and must be light enough to simply float on your palate and quench your thirst. Any wine that ticks these four simple boxes deserves sitting in your cups.

So, simply stay away from heavy reds, boozy fortified wines, and the sticky ones, the later especially. These wines pack a devilish kiss and have immense persuasiveness to turn you into a sloth or a zombie in a single serve. Summers are the time for light, citrus, and aromatic whites, roses and bubblies. If you’re trying to fit in a red, pour it in a glass, tilt it over a page of a Murakami novel, and see if you can read a page through it. If it works, chill it, and put it up. If that’s what you fancy, say hello to Pinot Noir and Beaujolais.

WHAT WORKS AND WHY

Dry, crisp, citrus, aromatic whites are a no-brainer. A gentle sniff should transport you to the farmlands and orchards, and the juicy citrus burst should put dew drops in the scenes with their refreshing lemon-lime play. Sauvignon Blancs and Rieslings are the perfect varietals for the season. And if you’re looking for something much simpler pick up a Pinot Grigio, Chenin Blanc, or a Viognier and watch them elevate your drinking rituals.

Roses do exactly the same, along with a generous serving of panache, elegance, and personality. These pink and salmon-hued drops are an absolute delight and keep either side of the drinkers satiated. Roses have a bust of crisp citrus, a rounder mouthfeel than their white counterparts, and a husky play of tannins to keep your tongue running over your teeth, reminiscing about the last sip and gently moving you towards another.

My perpetual go-to are the bubblies. They are a no-fuss, crowd pleaser and are the easiest to manoeuvre through with a tableful of delectable dishes. Forget not, they are served the most chilled amongst all winestyles, and there’s a ceremonial celebration each time the cork pops!! Add a few spoonfuls of fresh fruits, puree of peaches or apricots, and top it up with a sparkling wine and they make the perfect spritzer. A word of advice, whichever wine you may settle with, drink their youngest freshest avatar. The pompous, late-maturing, hefty wines are for the winters, summers are for accentuating the youth.

India’s been making some really worthy wines alongside those you’ve backpacked their ways on to our shelves. Here’s a pick of our favourite wines that’ll be crowding the community tables this season:

Jacob’s Creek Sparkling Brut, AUSTRALIA

Aussies have championed the art of making bubblies, and Jacob’s Creek is an unmistakable synonym. The play of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir brings a respectable charm and balance while maintaining a crisp mouthfeel, a citrus backbone, complimenting the mouse from bottle fermentation. An evergreen aperitif, a bankable serve, amazing with canapes, and biriyanis.

Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc, NEW ZEALAND

Think of a cool, crunchy leafy salad, with arugula leaves, pears, bell peppers, shards of piquant goats cheese, and a vinaigrette dressing. Sauvignon Blanc is the perfect marriage for that. Ethereal, crisp, gripping with hauntingly aromatic notes of lime, green veggies, gooseberries, and a playful lift of white florals. Chill it to the bone and hand over a glass to even a novice and see they eyebrows lift up with absolute amazement.

Campo Viejo Rioja Blanco, SPAIN

Viura meets Chardonnay meets Espana, what’s to go wrong in that trio? Viura is a rather introverted varietal that’s meant for those who like there wines to be subtle, not in-your-face, but pack a punch in the right places. It’s crispness is unparalleled to any other varietal making it a deserving partner for seafoods and baked dishes.

Jacob’s Creek Classic Chardonnay, AUSTRALIA

Its love-affair with Indian palate makes it the easiest contender to be on the list. Limey citrus with some white fruits, a play of creamy texture, with an earthy back, it’s a timeless charmer. It’s effortless to like and even easier to polish off a bottle of before anyone even notices. Stews, baked meats, and creamy preparations and this beauty, an utter delight.

Brancott Estate Pinot Noir, NEW ZEALAND

Think of a summery red and Pinot with jump out of your brain even before the end of the sentence. And if it’s from NZ, it’s a jackpot. NZ Pinots are smooth, light, and fragrant with ample dosage of red berries, rhubarb, rose petals, sweet cherries, and can quickly develop some complexity too. Any tomato-based gravy dish, mezze, simple mediterranean preparation, of a salmon dish, put a Pinot next to it and see people fall in love with their marriage.

York Vineyards Cuvee Brut Rose, INDIA

York’s winemaking style fills the trio of sensuality, aromatics, and a flirtatious slither of complexity in every bottle. A commendable rose bubbly that has never failed to impress from its first vintage. It’s minerally, controlled on the lees, and packs ample hues of florals, red fruits, and a cherry bite at the back.

Vallonne Vineyards Chenin Blanc, INDIA

Probably the most bankable Chenin Blanc you’ve not heard of or tasted thus far. It’s brimming with varietal flavours of green fruits, acacia flowers, an leafy bite, and a lemony acidity, making it a perfect open-relish-repeat proposition.

Grover Zampa Art Collection Riesling, INDIA 

The new kid on the block is the perfect balance of citrus, tropical fruit ripeness, flavour sweetness, and honeyed notes. It’s the harmony in its elements that makes it an easy sipper, but it’s not just that. Crack open one and find it for yourself.

Reveilo Wines Grillo, INDIA 

Amongst the most under-rated whites in the country that you only need to try once to befriend. Juicy citrus, white stone-fruits plushness, a hint of candied back, and ample character makes Grillo an amazing pick. An incomparable personality on the list, thank us later.

Sula Vineyards The Source Grenache Rose, INDIA

Amongst the most respectful roses out there right now, The Source rose is for those who understand their wines well. The play of red fruit flavours, a cherry twang, flirtatious tannin profile, and a mineral grip makes it a playful yet an astute rose. A definite bankable proposition.

Fratelli Vineyards MS Sangiovese Rose, INDIA

A pleasing aromatic nose, burst of lively flavours, bright fruity citrus, a clever grip on the palate, and  a candied finish, the thought of this salmon-hued rose alone puts a smile on one’s face. Relishing it is an even better joy.

First published in India Today Spice magazine in May 2021

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Tempranillo – A Rockstar From Spain

rows of a vineyard in autumn

Among the grapes that capture the essence of their representative country’s wines production one must make due mention of Tempranillo and all it achieves for Spanish Tintos. Synonymous with Rioja, the variety has silently resided in every corner of the country with different names for ages. Initially, it received a slow welcome on the international scene. But, upon arrival, many authorities lauded it as the ‘Next Big Thing’.

ORIGINS OF TEMPRANILLO

Whilst it is Spain’s local find, a legend claims that it was the Burgundian monks who carried its cuttings from France on their way to Santiago, and dropped them off at the monasteries here. Following this, claims were also made that Pinot Noir and Tempranillo may have similar parentage. While that may be dubious, they do share some similarities, one being their early ripening, called ‘temprano’ in Spanish, from where the grape gets its name, meaning the ‘little early one’. Now it flourishes in the cooler parcels of Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Penedes, and Navara. With over 550 clones and mutations, it even has something to fill up the hot vineyards of Valdepenãs, Toro, and even Portugal for its treasured Ports. 

TEMPRANILLO GOES TRAVELING

Phylloxera demolished the French vineyards, in early 1880s. It resulted in a situation where they had international demands but no means of catering to them. They turned towards the Spanish vineyards seeking some remedy. Considering the climate, the French brought Grenache to make wines. The plan was to transported them to Bordeaux, bottle them, and sell as French produce. The French went back, but left a library of knowledge. However, they left behind the know-how to make quality wines. The Bordeaux recipe demanded marrying various varietals and resting them in oak for complexity.

Shortly after, Rioja took charge and not only adopted the recipe but also let Grenache flourish locally. Today, blending is ideal in Rioja reds. Tempranillo’s lacking acidity, tannins, and colour Grenache compensates. Luckily, it also improved with oak-ageing. American oak barrels are preferred. Rioja reds have earned a reputation of being ‘vanilla-scented’, thanks to this. Ribera del Duero, however, exploits the advantage of hot continental climate, blended with the altitude of nearby hills. This ensures a well-ripened acidic fruit, the pillars for the wine to age on.

SHADES TEMPRANILLOS

A well-handled Tempranillo has everything an easy drinking wine should have. From good bright colour, moderate acidity, low supple tannins, fruity flavours of strawberry, mulberries, red cherries, it has everything. Grow it in cool climates and it will provide mouth-watering acidity at the cost of low colour and tannins, rendering a quaffable wine. Too hot a climate and the wine will be tannic and thick with no structure. It is the play of climate that makes a good Tempranillo. Rioja does furnish age-worthy wines worthy of easy five to 10 cellaring years.

Howbeit, it’s the balance of heat and altitude in Ribera del Duero that produces pure Tempranillos. They’re worthy of aging up to thirty years! Houses like Vega Sicilia and Dominio de Pingus rubbish the argument against Tempranillo’s ageing potential. They’ve also earned spot in the world’s most sought-after wines, soon becoming Spanish fine wine identity. Upon maturity, it’s similar to a matured Pinot Noir, savoury and meaty, rarely too complex. They develop and produce notes of coffee beans, leather, cigar, forest floor, cedar wood, and appreciated for their ‘tobacco leaf’ character.

DRINKING TEMPRANILLO

Tempranillo has everything New World wines offer; burst of juicy fruits, supple tannins, lively acidity, freshness, and an appeal of difference. Regarding its acceptability, Australia, California, Argentina, Mexico, and South Africa have opened their vineyards to the varietals in the past two decades. India has followed suit. Charosa Vineyards, the latest entrant to Indian quality wine brigade, and the illustrious Grover-Zampa alliance are now producing worthy Tempranillo. Crediting these successful experiments, we now have something unique and playful. Especially, if Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot don’t capture your fancies anymore.

Charosa Vineyard Reserve Tempranillo, Nasik, India – INR1500 – Juben Wines, Mumbai

Country’s first pure Tempranillo red that has impressed the desi palates with its first vintage release itself. Nurtured under the cooler shadows of the Dindori hills in Nasik, the grapes ripen to their pristine best. This ensures a balance of flavours, and much required phenolic structure. Patiently maturing in French oak for a year further adds character and nuances of finesse. The nose provides a fresh burst of sweet vanilla-scented oak, sweet baking spices, and ripe juicy red fruits. Strawberries, raspberry compote, plum mash, and red cherry syrup fill up the palate soon after drawing a sip. Then, follows the refreshing acidity and round tannins, ending with an alluring and subtle aftertaste. The combination of these characteristics with a youthful appeal, and medium body makes the wine an easy-drinking proposition. Pair it with lamb stew, Malabar chicken, or even pork sausages tossed in pancetta and beans.

Grover Zampa Chêne Grand Reserve, Nasik, India – INR1700 – Juben Wines, Mumbai

With an initial limited release of only 3000 bottles, the much-awaited Chêne finally reached the shelves last year. Denoting ‘oak’ in French, it draws a picture of powerful blend with a blanket of granular oaky notes. The nose open up to ripe dark fruit notes like cassis, blackberry, dark cherry mash, and plums. The fruit is accompanied with subtle traces of warm and baking spices with sweet vanilla notes. All this bound with robust and sturdy oak. The aftertaste leaves the palate lifted with chewy yet long-lingering matured savoury tones. Touches of liquorices, roasted coffee beans, and cigar smoke follow. The wine rests in the cellars for up to three years before released. Yet, it’s worth lying it down for a few more.

Torres Ibericos Crianza, Rioja, Spain – INR1800 – Defence Store, Delhi

Owing its name to the Iberian Peninsula, the land of oak trees, home of the wood on which the wine rests during its adolescent first year to be called a Crianza. Spanish reds are difficult to not like. Torres family, guarantees quality. Delicate fruity aromas of raspberries, cranberries, red currants, sweet cherry syrups, and a touch of moist earthiness are gently wrapped with spicy tones, vanilla and cinnamon hints. A juicy palate and a round mouthfeel compliments the palate. Fruit-rich palate with an uplifting delicacy and harmony allows returning to the wine without much thought. A good pairing with lamb shanks, kadhai preparations, tandoori mushrooms, and smoke-cured ham cuts.

Torres Celeste, Ribera del Duero, Spain – INR – 3000, House of Spirits, Delhi

The celestial configuration of Ribera del Duero’s cloud-kissing hills owes the wine its name. The natural relationship between day’s bright sunlight and evening’s chilly calm promises propitious wines. And, Torres Celeste is the window in to Ribera del Duero’s finesse-bound reds. Noticeable deep colour marks the first indication about the wines strength. Matured and intense nose opens up to black pepper hints, dark olives, liquorice, toasted oak, and aged meat. Substratum of matured dark fruits compliments the ripened tannins, warmth from the alcohol, and full bodied robustness of the wine. It is an elegant drop which can age well too. Rest it for 5-7 years and relish it with a discerning grilled steak or lamb rack, charred chicken breast, Chettinad preparations, or spicy chorizo dishes.

Marquse de Riscal Reserva, Rioja, Spain – INR3860, House of Spirits, Delhi

The winery gathered international attention in 1895 when it became the first non-French winery to win the much coveted certificate of honour at the Bordeaux Exhibition. With an architectural genius that can be spotted from a distance, the winery is the mecca for quality wine production in Rioja. It effortlessly serves as a benchmark for many budding wineries. Dusty nose captured the essence of traditionalist winemaking style with notes of meat, candied bacon, balsamico, red fruit compote, touches of sweet oak, earthiness, and minty calm. Palate holds the full bodied weight supporting the ripe dark fruit notes, leathery touches, with roasted coffee beans, nutmeg, bayleaf, and toasted nuts, finishing with a velvety tannic chewiness. A good portion of paneer lababdar with butter naan, lamb biriyani, mutton rogan josh, veal schnitzel, and gamey preparations can do justice to the wine.

Bodegas Roda, Reserve, Rioja, Spain – INR 7596 – Mumbai

The mesmerising wines of Bodegas Roda are a treat and deserve a laudable occasion to be savoured. Having spent over three years in the cellars, the wine matures to the discipline of a unique character of its own. Aromas are captivating, vibrant floral note upfront is followed by rich and ripe red fruit character overlapping fresh sweet oak and baking spice tones. Soft mouthfeel with round juicy tannins allows the wine to create a rich impression. Enjoy it best with gamey meats, oven-roasted camembert with caramelised pepper and red onion, pork spare ribs, and black bean chicken.

Bodega Beronia Reserva, Rioja, Spain – INR3510, House of Spirits, Delhi

Named after the warrior tribe of Celtic origin, the Berones, who called their land Beronia, the wine is as humble and grounded as the thought of its moniker. Having spent initial years in barrels followed by a long term in the bottle, the elixir is brought to its utmost finesse. The 2007 vintage we recently tasted was a burst of assortment of aromas and nuances. Complexity takes over with notes of dark chocolate, bayleaf, cinnamon, leather, cigar leaf, forest floor, touch of aged balsamico, smoked meat, chewy wet wood, sweet oak, and hint of foie gras. Velvety delectable tannins, refreshing acid back, and soothing balanced alcohol aid in supporting the wine in its prime.

Beronia breaks the notion that Rioja’s seldom age well, it can live a healthy long life. My picks for sharing the table with would be a traditional roasted chicken dish, pan-seared red snapper, aged grilled pork chop, or a simple dal makhani.

Principe de Viana Crianza, Navarra, Spain – INR 1680 – , House of Spirits, Delhi

Navarra Tempranillos are hard to spot on any wine list in India. Known for their fleshy fruitiness and individuality, however, the reds from the region are overshadowed by Rioja and Ribera del Duero legends. Principe de Viana defined modernistic production in Navarra and the wines show the same. Even after aging it for a year in oak, fruit dominates and display notes of soft berry flavours, cassis, blackcurrant, plums, and black cherry, infused with subtle hints of chestnut, coconut, chocolate, vanilla and cinnamon from the oak. A simple easy drinking drop with good structure and balanced that can be paired with Moroccan lamb shank, kosha mangsho with lucchi, sausage platter, Mangalore style vegetable curry, even pan seared salmon.

 

Tip: Tempranillos are best savoured in their youth, only some can age.

 

 

First Published in BBC GoodFood Magazine in July 2014

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Sipping Piedmont’s Pride

Each year, in May, a handful of wine writers flock the rain-drenched streets of Alba in Piedmont. Their job is simple: to taste and review the new vintage releases of DOCG Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero, and their Riservas before their market release. The event, called ’Nebbiolo Prima’ , spreading over five consecutive mornings, showcases about 500 wines that are tasted blind in an organised fashion. The bottles are dressed in black sleeves, ensuring no favouritism towards any brand, commune, or cru, are expressed by professionals and sommeliers. This year, amongst others, we were examining the 2012 Barolo and 2010 Barolo Riservas. 

Barolos have always ranked high amongst my favourite wine styles. Nebbiolo, especially from this area, shows much character. A lot like Pinot Noir in Burgundy, it’s fussy and uncompromising, dictating its sites, altitude, exposure, climate, and clonal selection choice, each contributing in some manner to the overall and final difference. The wines are largely categorised amongst the five major communes of Barolo – La Morra, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Monforte d’Alba, and Serralunga d’Alba. The other six communes are equally important but the former five have developed a better understanding and following for themselves, much like a brand name. 

Good Barolos, and Riservas, unfold their true enigma only after a few years of cellaring, rewarding patience and highlighting the choicest of occasions. Thus, tasting them this young and commenting on their future is testing but not futile. The palate nearly stifles from the tannins and the acidity, their brutal assault apparent in every sip. It’s funny when we converse straight after the tastings and exchange views. Trying to bring life back to our palates, we sound like Rocky Balboa after a fight on sedatives. Yet we return each morning to the tasting tables to put ourselves through this misery. Why? Amidst all these punishing morning tastings, we still gather what we travel all the way for. It’s impressive, and educating, how the wines show their communes’ attributes, while respecting the display of the vintage’s features, amidst the luscious varietal aromas of rose, tar, sloe, and blackberry in every sniff.

So how was the vintage release this year? 2012 is already highly talked about, sitting in repute as high as any other classic vintage. Wines have an acidic nerve and are loaded with fruit. Freshness, a firm grip, and structure remained the key observation in most wines tasted. They’re already showing a good phenolic balance and a promise to age well. Especially after an inconsistent 2011 which was considered good only for Riservas, 2012 is relieving for many. Not to forget, we also had the 2010 Barolo Riservas. The vintage has been labelled as one of the most legendary harvests of all times. Someone must’ve worked really hard to make a bad Barolo this year, and even harder for a poor Riserva. The further aged, and masculine, rendition of Barolo, Riservas are smooth, structured, gentle, and unctuous in their offering already. Fruit is still pivotal, while tertiary notes are developing with only subtle assistance from the oak. They are worth betting on right now and will definitely be a delight a few decades later.

Here’s a regional guide to this year’s releases and how they fared as regional expressions:

LA MORRA

The blue-tinted Tortonian soil dominates here. It’s compact and fertile, resulting in less tense and open wines. They’re expressive, fragrant, and loaded with gracious aromatics, and considered the most feminine, quickest to mature, and early-drinking Barolos.

2012

Beautiful dusty ruby colour prevails. Pronounced perfume could be smelt from far and was very alluring. The palate busted with fresh ripe fruits. Even with a gripping and near dusty mouthful, acidity shined and made it an overall supple proposition. Most wines seemed ready and approachable. Michele Chiarlo’s Cerequio performed really well among the 56 La Morra Barolos tasted that morning.

BAROLO

Based on similar soil, wines here are bright and youthful, with plush fruit, and a tad extra warmth. Tannins are usually velvety and wines show considerable structure and concentration. The subregion is said to produce the most classic examples of the style.

2012

Wines were either too good or simply passable, which was surprising. The better ones had luscious fruit, lifted dark spices, subtle mix of old and new oak, and commendable integration. Soft tannins aided in mouthfeel and fluidity. Also, dense aftertaste left a tad rustic but smart appeal. Sarmassa from Marchesi di Barolo was quite impressive and stood out from the lot of 40 Barolos from the commune. Lingering candied fruits were well braided with aged-meat complexity.

CASTIGLIONE FALLETTO

Beige-hued loose and less fertile Helvetian soil featuring more sandstone takes over here. Castiglione Falletto wines can easily be differentiated from the others. They’re deeper in most attributes – colour, body, palate strength, bolder and more intense tannins – thus making them a good contender for long and slow cellaring. 

2012

It was the best-showing commune this year for most. Structured, powerful palate, fine grain tannins, rich bouquet, generous flavours, fuller and concentrated overall. Rich cranberries, cherry tang, fragrant meats (ham), charred oak, and earthy dustiness featured in most of the wines. 19 wines were featured from the region and they were all tied together with ripe acidity and a gripping and authoritative structure. Some wines have already developed shades of tertiary character without sacrificing the primary fruit. Ceretto’s Bricco Rocche was impressive.

MONFORTE D’ALBA

Limestone traces increase amongst the Helvetian dominated soil here. Its presence provides richness and power to the wine, making them amongst the most masculine and definitely the heaviest Barolos, requiring some extra years in the cellars than its counterparts. While limestone’s cool empowers the wines with refreshing acidity, it renders the tannins rough, providing a sincere depth on the palate.

2012

Tangy acidity, cleanliness of flavours, and roundness on the palate were key. Most examples were far from the usual dustiness of young Barolos and there seemed an extra  favouritism for  newer oak. Lively and rich fruit, liquorice tones, dried shrubs, fresh damp unearth soil, and cherry skin chew were common. Concentration of elements was compelling. The wines were gripping but lifted at the same time. Thanks to the tannins and acidity burst, these wines will last long and will show very well by their tenth birthday.

SERRALUNGA D’ALBA

Parked between Monforte d’Alba and Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga’s wines enjoy the best of both communes. They have long ageing potential, common in these Eastern communes, and are the firmest and most concentrated of the lot. Generally, the expression is big, bold, and, at times, rather potent. One of its communes, Francia, earned the wine style the coveted title of ‘wines of the kings’, speaking confidently about their personality.

2012 

It was my pick of the eleven communes this year. The wines were effortless and seriously impressive. Paler colour on the rims suggested the wines were ageing graciously. Palate was tight, dense, and heavy, with lesser intense fruit, and dominating spices. Pio Cesare’s Ornato alongside may other discerning producers performed well in the 55 wine flight from the commune. 

2010 RISERVAS

Year after year I’ve failed to acknowledge tasting Riservas as early as this. They’re very shy in their adolescence and refuse to express, at times leaving the entire gum-numbing exercise unproductive. Oak-marred wines don’t show regional character, let alone the cru. However, 2010 vintage being so elegant and near-perfect had a different story. Not only were the wines open, but each one of them held an impressive conversation when approached. Overall, wines’ structure was  pleasing, displaying fine balance between phenolics, fruit, oak, and development. La Morra’s Riserva’s were easy drinking and concentration was notable amongst Barolo’s produce. Castiglione Falletto’s wines completely lacked personality and were dirty and hollow. Monforte showed strength and grip, while Serralunga delivered fruity abundance and chewy palate. La Morra’s Paolo Scavino, Monforte’s Prunotto, and Serralunga’s Fontanafredda stood strong. 

Selecting from 170 single vineyards and 11 communes of Barolo DOCG can be testing even for an avid Barolo drinker. The spectrum of offerings is not confusing, it’s rather pleasing. Even after centuries of its existence and dominance Barolo continuously reinvents itself. And no varietal Italian wine astyle can match the diversity of its offerings. The tumult between traditionalists and modernists has continuously churned new shades of Nebbiolo promising there’s more to explore and exploit. There’s always an excitement to see what new would the crafty winemakers do to impress. While it’s a patience game to wait and watch, it’s not all that bad with a few sips of a patiently aged fine Barolo, 1996 please!! 

 

First published in Sommelier India Wine Magazine in August, 2016

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Tale Of Zinfandel

No grape must’ve backpacked, and struggled to prove its identity, as much as Zinfandel has. Croatia, Italy, and California have continuously claimed its birth in their vineyards. But, undoubtedly it’s its long-lived love story with the Californian land that’s been the most cherished. Even amongst all the New World lands and varietal pairings, these two have been as successful a couple as Australia and Shiraz and New Zealand and Sauvignon Blanc are. From being a cash-crop to becoming a beloved rose of choice in America, to cashing on some exquisite and collectable drops, Zinfandel has seen its share of glory. And while some believe that the journey has been more tale-worthy than the wines it yield, the jury is split.

IDENTITY

Zinfandel and history have played hide and seek for years and kept many debating. The longest tiff stood between California and Puglia (Southern Italy) for over a century and a half, both claiming stakes at its origin. Americans, known for often speaking more than they know, even claimed that the vine reached Puglia amidst other cargo while the Italian immigrants were returning to base in the 1860s from the American shores. However, these claims were easily rubbished on two very solid grounds. Firstly, the varietal is a Vitis Vinifera produce, a genus of vines that America never had, only Europe did. And secondly, there are documented evidences indicating that the grape came to Puglia in early 18th Century from the Dalmatian coasts, now a part of Croatia. Owing to its early ripening attributes, the varietal was called Prima Vitis by the Latins which eventually turned to Primativo, still the primary grape of the region. Even with such concrete sources, America didn’t soften their stance and stuck to their claim. It was only in the 1990s, thanks to DNA profiling, that it was proven that the varietal was identical to near-extinct Croatian Crljenak Kastelanski, red varietal from the island of Kastelna, thus questioning the very foundation of this ongoing debate. So how did it reach America then?

Studies prove that the vine was imported to the US in 1829 by George Gibbs from Austrian nurseries. It is believed that the grape received its name due to a severe case of Chinese whispers. Some believe that the varietal was confused with an Austrian native ‘Zierfandler’, and thus the name, but that can be questioned too as it’s a famed white varietal. However, due to the paucity of any other nearly-believable story, we’ve settled for this one unless new claims are made. On its way from Long Island, where it was first brought in, to California, the grape was also called Zenfendel and Zinfandal. Farmers patriotism never allowed them to called it by its Italian or Croatian names.

PROGRESSION

Since its arrival in the late 1820s, it had its own value and glamour amongst viticulturists. It wasn’t famed for its wines initially and was looked upon as just another black varietal in the mix. They would plant it in the driest, warmest, and the least water-retaining parcels as the better ones were secured for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It was this innocent ignorance that worked in their favour though as it loved such conditions. Being a heat-lover, at times demanding even more sunshine hours than Cabernet Sauvignon, it flourished and provided an approachable, fruit-forward, and dense wine satiating all the attributes on the good-wine-checklist. Its craze only grew, peeking in 1849 during the Gold Rush. Zinfandel is a high-yielding grape, providing a consistently quantitative harvest, fetching easy bucks for the producer. This is exactly what was required during that era, a simple formula for success. It soon became their favourite varietal. Some even rejoiced claiming that California had its own Claret now, a simple medium-dry fruity red, rivalling the French. The craze was so hot that even during Prohibition it was the choicest red for home wine production. 

With all such glory, why isn’t it as pricey as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot? The varietal has its share of problems too. Genetically, the vine is highly vigorous and tend to easily over-produce. This leads to severely jammy wines. Thus to curb this, regular and serious pruning is required. It’s a backbreaking exercise and costly too, thanks to the magnitude of human-intervention required. Even with that done, it further suffers from uneven ripeness, featuring green, ripe, and raisinated grapes in the same bunch. This makes rigorous and meticulous sorting at the winery a must. Given such care and constant attention it’s not surprising that Zinfandel lost its top spot to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

THE PRECIOUS DROPS

With Zinfandel, crop picking time is crucial and defines how the wine will be. Pick it a little early and the wine will be bursting with luscious strawberry, raspberry, and sweet cherry flavours. If picked a little later, the red fruit will give way to darker and heavier fruit like blackberries, bitter cherries, and peppery spiciness. Leave it to ripen further and you’ll have a dark dense liquid marred with prunes, dates, and dark fruit jamminess. Having said that, one must acknowledge the magical genius of Paul Draper, winemaker at the famed Ridge Vineyards winery, the man who deciphered Zinfandel like nobody else could. He says there’s nothing called an overripe Zinfandel. His idea is to let the Zinfandel ripen to 101% and let the greens balance the raisins and the ripened ones lead with maturity and seriousness, and let the grape itself define the complexity and depth of the wine.

There are various avatars of Zinfandel allowing the winemaker to play around with the liquid. A quick run-off of juices and you’ll have a faint rosé wine with a fruity accent and crisp acidity aka White Zinfandel. Leave a touch of residual sugar with a purple-hued tone and it’ll be a pleasing ‘Blush Zinfandel’. Cluster-ferment it and an aromatic playfully fruity-floral wine will be achieved. Let it settle for a long maceration period and the depth of chewy tannins, nearly-opaque colour, and fragrant sweet-and-spicy American oak will balance the heat of pepperiness from the varietal. Some producers even have tried their hands at over-ripening the entire bunch and making sweet wines, reaching 16% alcohol by volume, without fortification, and with generous dollops of sugar still unfermented. 

TERRIOR AND STYLES

Between the prized Cabernet and Zinfandel, it’s the latter that shows terroir more evidently. Though during the daylight it enjoys the sun’s blaze, however it’s best if coupled with cooling nights and aid in retaining its acidity. Sonoma County plays home to two of the best sites for Zinfandel in the country. Dry Creek, enjoying the ocean’s diurnal effect offers this attribute and is thus considered the best site. The neighbouring Alexander Valley is good too albeit the magnitude of day and night temperature being considerably lesser. Russian River and Santa Cruz do host the varietal and produce some excellent drops but it is still the Dry Creek valley that claims the gold. Even clear distinctions between sites and their produce, Single Vineyard Zinfandels are rare to find. They’ll always be a field blend with crops sourced from a mix of parcels than just one site. May be that is owing to its ripeness concerns or just to bring in multiple attributes together to make a complex blend.

Notable Producers – Ridge Vineyards, Renwood, Ravenswood, and DeLoach

OLD VINES MYTH

Given its continuous success in the Californian fields, Zinfandel vines boasts an average age of 50 years or more. The yield drops considerably and given the vogue of their time of planting, often they’re bush trained. Having ‘Old Vines’ Zinfandel on the shelves is easy. It is not a controlled term and means nothing, thus allows any one to put it on the label. While most countries would work with the idea of ‘Old Vines’ wines coming from a certain age bracket, in Zinfandel context, Old Vines is only indicative. Rather than the age, it represents the older style of growing the vines on those dry, arid, rough, and hillside slopes, thus eliminating the very idea of yield, concentration, or anything else. This distinct way of growing vines resulted in a distinct character due to slow ripened and more layered flavour, not concentration and/or complexity.

REST OF THE WORLD

While Puglia is still a claimant of the varietal, its the deep and rustic Primitivo di Manduria DOC and Primitivo de Gioia DOC wines that holds the flags. it has its own takes but they’d rarely challenge the sharpness and complexity of Californian examples. 

Australia’s Margaret River homes some Zinfandel too in its Margaret River and South Australian Zone. These wines are notably balanced and can be supple, especially owing their affinity to American oak usage.

South Africa has produced some worthy drops too, thanks to its warm lands and ocean influences. Though the persistent climate change and problems of their wines being a tad boozy, they often blend their Zinfandels with some Cinsault and Carignan to tame the alcohol down to 15-16%, which still is quite warm.

Notabel Producers:

Italy – Maseeria Pepe, Sinfarosa

Australia – Cape Mentelle, Nepenthe

South Africa – Fairview, Blaauwklippen

VERDICT

So, Croatian, Italian or Californian, the origins are clear, as is the travel route it traced. Yet the debate remains, which expression showcases its best shade and who should take the trophy home? Without a doubt, the glory belongs to California. Even with baseless claims and stories regarding its origins, nomenclature, and misguided use of ‘Old Vines’ on the label, no country has ever brought fame and prestige to the varietal as the Americans have. From Carole Meredith at University of California at Davis (UCD) mapping its origin, to Bob Trinchero creating Blush Zinfandel at Sutter Home, and Paul Draper at Ridge Vineyards mastering the varietal handling, Americans have done more for the varietal and its wines than the rest of the world put together. And till they have their passions high and adore the varietal, our copas will be filled with their reward of love and labour.

 

First published in Spiritz Magazine in September, 2016 

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In Praise Of Brunello Di Montalcino

Italy holds many vinous gems in its arsenal, more reds than whites. Some that have ruled the palates of aristocrats and kings, marking their place firmly in the history of the country, and some that woke up to their true potential a tad later. Amongst the latter is a wine style that no commendable wine-list across the globe can be complete without – Brunello di Montalcino. Located not far from the Tuscan tourist city of Sienna, Montalcino has for long attracted the top palates and price tags for its muscular and age-worthy reds. However this glory is fairly recently albeit rapidly earned, especially when seen through the prism of Italy’s glorious winemaking history.

STORY SO FAR

The local holm oak trees, called Lecchi, owe the hill its name thus called Montalcino. The region has been repeatedly mentioned in the history for winemaking since the 12th Century but nothing noteworthy came forth till the 19th Century. It was in early 1800s that a group of farmers started experimenting and planting what was considered to be a superior clone of Sangiovese called ‘Brunello’ or ‘Brunellino’. The clone attracted some attention. Clemente Santi, one amongst the few interested farmers, grew especially inquisitive and investigated the clone further. He bottled his first varietal ‘Brunello’ wine in 1860, released by Ferruccio Bondi Santi in 1865. This can easily be claimed as the birth of what was to become amongst the most prominent varietal wine styles of the country. The wine soon sat amongst the top produces of the region, and then claimed its attention globally. However till the 1960s, the region was better known for its sweet and sparkling white wine called Moscadello. Brunello di Montalcino was conferred with DOC in 1966 and till 1970 Bondi Santi remained somewhat to sole player in the game. And then entered the American giant, Banfi, that had earned its reputation with the successful introduction of Lambrusco in the continent. Eyeing the Moscadello sparkling as its next success story, Banfi invested heavily in the area but were badly unsuccessful, thus turning all their plantings in to Brunello. It was not all rotten luck as Brunello di Montalcino became the first wine style to receive a DOCG seal in 1980. Thereafter it was a global phenomenon, with upto 70% of its production being relished abroad. Banfi does deserve a pat on their back for exploiting the well-established network of distribution from their Lambrusco success. 

IN THE VINEYARDS

Located South West and further inland from the hills of Chianti, Montalcino has a drier and warmer climate. This further makes it amongst the most arid of all Tuscan DOCG areas. Sangiovese, being the fussiest and notoriously moody at clonal, site, and soil selection seems to adore the area here. The bigger-berried clone, also called Sangiovese Grosso, has a reputation of providing somewhat a consistent yield in Montalcino, which in other parts of Tuscany is the hardest task for an agronomist. Where in Chianti sometimes the grapes are left lurking for more heat, here even the cooler pastures aren’t worried about its ripeness.

The hills are roughly divided between the north and the south. North, based on Galestro soil, is cooler and higher, rising upto 600 metres, providing lighter and elegant crop. The low-laying southern hills, based on clay, deliver more muscular yield and are often hauntingly aromatic, thanks to the cooling winds from the Orcia river. Thus, usually most wines are a mix of the two areas to exploit the best of both. 

To generalise the 2000 hectares of Brunello di Montalcino production territory will be inappropriate. It’s not as much to clonal selections, winemaking proficiency, oak integration, and aging regimen of the house as much as it’s to site selection, its elevation, aspect of the vineyards, and the parcels’ soils that the resultant wine would owe its personality. Since Montalcino was declared a UNESCO World Heritage city its viticultural area can no more be altered. This implies more owners of the same land. While this may result into more concentrated production and qualitative produce but at a higher price. The DOCG thus majorly includes small to mid-sized producers. Being a varietal wine style, there is always the lack of insurance of subsidiary varietals in case the vintage turns unsuccessful. Thus, these factors become further imperative to master to have a formidable and consistent produce that can justify its repute, identity, expression of the land, and the price-tag.

OAK TALKS

Much like the Piedmontese reds, there has been a split between producers in their oak regimen. In the 90s, there was a sudden inclination towards barriques. Wines turned oaky sweet and were marred with vanilla, somehow smothering the varietal and the terroir they wanted to showcase. Minus the fad of oaky, boisterous, and bold reds, barriques aided in faster maturation of wines which further implied quicker drinkability and sooner return on investment. However, much like many such fashions, this one wasn’t to stay for long. Producers here take pride in expressing that modernisation hasn’t come to stay at Montalcino. Most realised the dent it was bringing to the hard-earned image of Brunello di Montalcino wines and the dissatisfaction caused amongst its true admirers. Nearly all wineries have returned to the original/traditional style and using big bottis of five to six thousand litres. Though barriques aren’t completely discarded but they’re rarely the dominant influence anymore. Slavonian and French oak is readily used and vintage chestnut barrels frequently dot the cellars. Brunello di Montalcino DOCG recipe requires the wines to stay in oak for a minimum of two years and are released in the fifth leading from the harvest. For wines labelled as Riservas, another six months of oak raging is demanded and they occupy the shelves in their sixth year.Such long a wait further accentuates the price. To resort to this conundrum, a simpler DOC was introduced where the wines could be released after a year of harvest, with a kiss of oak-aging, and be labelled ‘Rosso di Montalcino’. These are fruity, fleshy, youthful, and vibrant rendition of the bigger, matured, and serious Brunello di Montalcino. It’s common to see these wines being rested in barriques that allow more grip and quicker aging to the liquid. It’s also noticeable that younger vines deliver yields for Rosso wines, while the more sturdy and older vines are reserved for Brunello and Riserva labels, yet again promising concentration and quality.

WINES TO TRY

With such variety and distinction in styles, generalising Brunello offerings will be unfair. Trying ample Brunellos and Riservas before making personal picks is sacrosanct. There were my definite favourites though. Bondi Santi’s 1997 Riserva was a testimony of the styles’ ageability, 2008 Casanova di Neri Cerretalto Brunello and Castello Banfi’s 2006 Poggio All’Oro Riserva proved the promise in tending the wine with patience. Le Ragnaie’s Fronace and Ragnaie V.V wines were a commendable window into the north-south divide, with my palate favouring the southern grip and structure. Il Poggione’s 2001 Brunello makes a noteworthy early-drinking drop and must be clutched to appreciate the youthfulness in its style. I’ve always appreciated Antinori’s Pian Delle Vigne Brunello for its maturity and drinkability at a favourable age, and especially for its ready availability in the Indian market. However, my pick from the region was the 2012 Brunello from the house of Sesta di Sopra, nestled in the southern reaches of Montalcino. Their single vineyards site, christened Sesta, was also rated by the Decanter Magazine amongst the 10 best crus in Italy. 

Montalcino may be a small tourist city buts its wines’ reputation is one that remains unchallengeable. Regarded as Tuscany’s response to Barolo, its maturity and depth is often spellbinding. Montalcino is not for the impatient, in-your-face, and practical palates. The style has stood the test of time and the wines display the regard for the same ever today. A perfect accompaniment to cigars and bodacious meats, especially game and cattle, Brunello di Montalcino is definitely worth an experience, and discerning occasion, especially once the bottle has celebrated its fifteenth birthday, has been left to breathe and awaken at its own sweet pace. With no place for any other varietal to intrude, or accompany in the bottle, Brunello di Montalcino is undoubtedly the best expression of Tuscan strength and potential. As long as Brunello di Montalcino will celebrate its own existence and tradition, our copas will be lifted in its embrace. Cin Cin!! 

First published in Sommelier India Wine Magazine in October, 2017

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Nebbiolo Prima, New Vintages, New Formulae

Each year, Piemonte’s historic and gastronomic city of Alba prepares itself to uncork three magnificent vintages of six wonderful regional expressions bound with craftsmanship and time to the palate of selected few from across the globe. These DOCG designated wines of Barolo, Barbaresco, and Roero, with their muscled Riservas, pour through the glasses at a five day event called Grandi Langhe Nebbiolo Prima. This year the event was restricted to three days. Each morning they would gather to silently blind-taste over a hundred wines from designated sub-regions of a winestyle. All these wines are at least three years old yet like a newborn in a cot. It’s a technical challenge of its own kind to taste yet-to-emerge wines, decipher their vintage characteristics, play of regional and winemaking influences on the crop, further decoding the play of aging on them thus far, and bet on their potential in the future. Yet, anxious professionals await this daunting challenge as the result is educating and indulging, at its least.

This year’s pre-release DOCG wines were – 2011 Barolo Riserva, 2012 Barbaresco Riserva, 2013 Barolo and Roero Riserva, 2014 Barbaresco and Roero. This time the challenge was not just the nature of tasting, it was also the sheer number of wines showcased in a comparatively shorter time. It could easily set stage for palate fatigue and influence conclusions of one’s judgement. Furthermore, most wines were from the two most challenging vintages in the decade thus far, 2013 & 2014. For the faint-hearted all this could easily be a deal-breaker, but for me it was a much exciting proposition to taste two of my favourite North-Italian wine-styles, Barolo & Barbaresco, in their utmost unpretentious forms. It’s a liquid journey through the hills of Langhe, their communes, top sites, and winemaking styles that have been creating continuous excitement for decades now and are amongst the most priced European reds. 

Barolos are aged for a minimum of 38 months of which 18 are in oak barrels, while Barbarescos must be aged for a minimum of 9 months in oak of the total 18 months prior to release. Nebbiolo forms formidable pillars for these wines to rest on and age graciously creating layers of complexity and developing into a gastronomic treat in their best examples. It displays vintage and site variations exceptionally well and thus a detailed study of regions’ topography, communes’ distribution and attributes, and features of the best sites is a imperative pre-requisite. 

With all set, we tasted, and tasted, and tasted some more, and this is my review of the vintages released

2013 BAROLO DOCG

It went down in the books as a cold and rainy vintage indicating late budbreak, and definite hard work in the vineyards with fungal issues. Mildew was to be concerning and expectedly led to crop loss for many. While damp soil was welcomed by some acting as a water reserves for the approaching hot summer, for the rest it left vineyards too moist to operate with machines thus ordering manual spraying. Now that can be costly and highly exhausting, which isn’t for all. In short, it was challenging all through. However, the area has seen ample climatic inconsistencies in the past and producers have learnt from them. And thus, it wasn’t all bad. And this is where Barolo is unique. While in Burgundy a bad vintage can have nearly the entire region and its producers sheltering under that same umbrella, Barolo, thanks to its topographic diversity, always has some commendable betting options on the table. 

Due to long ripening seasons, most Barolos had silky tannins, thus more firmly shaped personality than boastfully powerful ones like from the 2010. But for cooler areas, tannins were grippy and simply too young to have evolved when we tasted. The vintage promised elegant wines meant for younger drinking, subtle, elegant, perfumed and effortless in their best avatars. Communes of Barolo, Novello, and Monforte failed to impress this year, while Verduno was a big hit. Its wines were fruity, mid-weight, and carried structural appeal. Castiglione Falletto produced some great examples displaying perfume, and the top drops hailed from Serralunga marked for their grace with textural finesse.

In 2013, producers had to show some tact and more skills in tackling the natural influences, gently extract climatically well-crafted fruit, and let oak-aging only smoothen and provide shape with gentle minimalistic handling. Those who couldn’t decode the vintage ended up with severe imbalances in ripeness, further marring the fruit with obtrusive oak, resulting in a horrible proposition in the glass. With a mix of simple and stunning ones, 2013 is short of being titled a classic vintage yet, without any hesitance, a classy one.

2014 BARBARESCO DOCG

It was a cool & wet vintage that luckily nearly-missed the hailstorms that destroyed Barolo. Warm and humid end of winters aided in setting the perfect scene for mildew & rot to attack, increasing restless manual labour in the vineyards of already reducing crop for the producers attempting to maintain yields of sacrificed quality. Viticulturists had to continuously drop clusters and leaves to increase ventilation in desperate attempts of plausibly controlling rot on rather fragile and moody Nebbiolo grapes. At its tail the vintage reverse swung in Barbaresco’s favour leaving it at the mercy of late-ripening Nebbiolo to benefit from it and developing some depth of perfume, aromatics, colour, and strength. Unfortunately, majority of the crop were already wounded, resulting in overall irregular wines, mostly light, lacking in personality, and promising little cellar-worthiness. With such mix of crop it’ll be foolish to expect a good single vineyard Barbaresco, or at least not their best expressions at that. Thus producers had to resort to blending fruits from various plots, vineyards, and even communes with any chance of them showing some character, promise, or potential. Those from Neive did deliver showing most promise amongst them all. 

Deemed amongst the most unusual vintages of the decade already, it has set itself for a classic display of gap between the top estates and the rest. Warmer sites with good drainage, coupled with capacity to withstand the loss through green harvest, crop-thinning, and multiple sprees of spraying could show their and vintage’s potential. It came down to producers’ technical prowess and their commercial capacity hence, and the only blessing was the grape’s natural late-ripening factor itself that supported in any way. Those who could dare to delay their harvest were rewarded. These wines may have some youthful anxiousness on the palate, but do they have any true potential can only be determined if they open up in the long run.

2014 ROERO DOCG

I’ve been an advocate of Roero wine style for a while and have seen the growth in wine enthusiasts adding it to their drinking repertoire. Unlike Barolo & Barbaresco, Roero can be blended upto 5% with auxiliary grapes. There wasn’t much allowance to expect a difference in vintage for the wines of Roero and they seemed to be affected by the wrath of weather too. However, the flexibility of bringing other grape(s) in the blend does work as a tool of insurance in vintages like this.They have seldom posed as the most influential and promising wine style and they delivered to their calibre. These wines were pleasureful in drinking and do hold some promise for the future. Though they were the least in number during the tasting, yet their simplicity, light-weighted structure, and honest delightful fruitiness was always appreciated, especially for those who found the bigger reds to be too weighty to handle at time. 

Given the nature of these vintages, it was clear that either these wines will be at their best in their youth, or may require a little extra time before they could be commented upon. Not to forget, we were tasting these wines in early-April than the usual mid-May which which further took away from analysing and basing the judgements on correctly. Thus, most prestigious wine authorities launched their own revisiting the vintages in October this year, quite unlike earlier years, and noticed a little more promise than what the liquid could conjure in April. Thus, much like Nebbiolo itself, fruits of delayed gratification was rewarded. 

With the third edition of Grandi Langhe Nebbiolo Prima coming to a close, there were some hit and misses for sure. However, there was lots to learn and imbibe. From the endurance of the grape, to the unhindered will of the producers, a gamble on quality, quantity, and fortunes, repute of the heirlooms on the line, yet regarding the fruit of nature’s rather mischievous play, it was a display of balance between man and nature’s complex relationship. After a successful spree of three vintages (2010-12), in a way it was nature’s way of reassuring itself that its receiver hasn’t become too casual and relaxed about its offers. Though our palates stood only as a spectator to this fine alliance, every sip we drew from those stained glasses was a reminder of generations’ hard work, dedication, and sheer determination we were there to enjoy the nectar of. No doubt these hills are deemed UNESCO World Heritage sites for their intricate relationship with its inhabitants. 

 

First published in Spiritz Magazine in February, 2018

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Conversations with Indulge – Stephane Soret, Sommelier

Sommelier Stephane SORET is a name to be reckoned with in the world of sommellerie. He is a man with decades of experience and one who honed his skills across continents and cultures. Today, based out of Singapore, he heads the F&B operations for the prestigious Raffles. In his time there, he has hosted some of the most iconic wine events this side of the Greenwich. Here, with us today, for #ConversationsWith Indulge, he talks wines and reminisces about his days spent working in India.

What first attracted you to wines?

I was fortunate to grow up in Southern Rhone where we have a strong wine culture. I would always work part-time during harvest with local family friend wine producers.

What are the 2-3 most important things to consider while evaluating a wine (blind tasting)?

Why I don’t like it and why my guest might like it? I call this palate optimization which consists of making all my guests happy and forgetting about the self-centred French Sommelier syndrome! This is possibly the best rating a wine can get in my opinion. So my guest can be happy because they experience a great discovery/value wine for the money or because they want to splurge and impress with more commercial labels. A good wine list must have all of it.

What drink do you generally like to unwind with at the end of a workday?

I love a good single malt whisky, neat, with water on the side.

What are your thoughts on Asian cuisines (in plural) and wines? Are they compatible, and how should we approach it, generally speaking?

Asian cuisine is broad and complex and our challenge is to develop Asian Sommeliers who will NOT recommend the most expensive bottle on the list (anybody can do that). Instead, we should adopt a gentle, more educational approach in order to generate repeat business. Table by table, it’s a hard job but the Sommelier must do so.

In Asia this is as important as the chef’s job if we really want to be serious about wines. It’s also important to make it affordable, all the way from producers, right to our clients in the restaurant. At the Tiffin Room at Raffles Hotel, I pour M/S by-the-glass and also by bottles ( from Fratelli in Akluj Maharashtra) and we have developed a great Indian Sommelier called Kutty Krishna Nair. I also really love the Tempranillo Reserve from Charosa, a wine that I wanted to bring exclusively to Raffles prior to the pandemic.

What do you miss about India and especially the local food and drinks scene?

I miss my all-time favourite:  Chicken Tikka Masala from Defence Colony market Delhi, of course, best paired with Chateau des Tours, the pure Grenache from Cote du Rhone by Chateau Rayas, with minimum 6 years of bottle age.

Is there a wine caveat that we should be aware of?

The concern I have is there is way too much bad or fake wine produced and this is why time and education is so important. I would rather drink a great Prosecco than a bad Champagne. Also, you cannot learn wine in a crash-course, it takes years to develop your own palate and philosophy. And travelling to visit producers is a must, obviously not in 2021, but in general.

Any advice to aspiring F&B professionals in India?

I try to stay away from wines that aren’t telling the truth (see above). In vino veritas and that’s all that matters.

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52 Drinks 52 Weeks – Pimm’s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BC1BQAqbyC0&t=7s

The queen loves it, tennis stars vibe on it, and the Brits brought its ration on voyages to India, the red-brown digestive made to cure digestive issues at an oyster bar in 1840s London is now a staple at homes and summery soirees. Our baldies get in to narrate is story and Ani Sharma puts together a No. 1 cup for us.