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The Great Grape Crush

In 1837, as Bahadur Shah Zafar, the last Mughal king of India, acceded to the throne in Delhi, a Bavarian national, Johann Gramp was docking on the shores of Australia. Both men were destined to change the course of history. One was to fail his empire and lose it to British colonisation, and the other was fomenting a vinous revolution that would rule the world’s palates for centuries to come.

 

A decade after his arrival Down Under, Gramp planted Barossa Valley’s first vines over a 30 hectare piece of land shouldering a natural waterway called Jacob’s Creek. A humble setup of a small winery with an underground cellar yielded its first label in 1850 with an assortment of about 125 bottles. Fast-forward to125 years later, in 1976, and again, while the Indian empire was under the shroud of an impending Emergency, a new revolution was brewing in the Gramp kingdom. Jacob’s Creek label, an ode to the aspiring natural feature adjoining the original winery site setup by papa Johann, was finally presented to the Australian palates. Did they know then that the label would go on to become the quintessential synonym to quality and simplicity the world over? I guess they did. How does one claim that? See now, less than half a century on, it has over 8000 awards and medals to its name, it’s relished in over 80 countries, raising 1.7 million toasts a day. It’s a global synonym for Aussie wines, and here in India, it’s the undisputed, undefeated, insatiable ruler of the imported wines sultanate.

From its original Shiraz-Cabernet-Malbec rendition, Jacob’s Creek has evolved into a massive range. Its wines display the regard for their terroir, varietal character, and elegance, all crafted from employing decades of experience and the wisdom of its ancestors’ 170-year long journey. And it’s probably the mastery of these elements that ensure that every bottle of Jacob’s Creek wines taste the same, regardless of where they’re being poured around the globe. Apart from their classic and reserve ranges, they added organically-made wines to their offerings in 2020, and recently added the newly-introduced Double Barrel Shiraz. And just before the second lockdown, another exciting label was announced, especially exhilarating for F1 Grand Prix followers. In a collaboration between their St Hugo range and the dashing Aussie racer Daniel Ricciardo, the Jacob’s Creek family will be offering their 2015 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon and 2014 Barossa Shiraz, only to the Aussie palates. What a tease! But hey, much like what Ricciardo’s fellow racers on the track say for him, didn’t see that coming.

What puts Jacob’s Creek in a league of its own is their commitment to their winemaking philosophy and churning value-for-money expressions. Every drop delivers quality, superseding the buck paid for it. In a price-driven market like India, it has been the first dram for many, and even today remains the benchmark for any wines trying to compete with the country’s fast-growing international wine market. Its price sensitive offering places it at the top of the tier for any oenophile. It promises consistency, quality, and a bond of trust to satiate the palate and quench your thirst. What else do we want in a discerning vino?

The journey of Jacob’s Creek has been exceptional thus far. And if you ever get a chance to visit their visitor’s centre, do have a meal at their award-winning restaurant, and check if you can plant your own vine in their vineyards. On my visit in 2012, I planted my own vines, fruits of which are to contribute to their award-winning wines. Grab your vine sapling, and plant the seeds of what may change the course of history yet again and tease and please the palates of fine wine drinkers around the globe. After all, Jacob’s Creek is the sort of ruler whom we can repose our trust.

MILESTONES

1837 – Johann Gramp arrives in Australia

1840s – William Jacob, Eurpoean explorer sets up his hermitage near the creek, later giving it its name

1847 – Johann Gramp plants Barossa Valley’s first vines

1850 – First wine is released

1877 – Gustav, Gramp’s son, expands the winery and vineyards

1976 – Jacob’s Creek label is born, holding the 1973 Shiraz-Cabernet-Malbec blend in its bottles

1984 – Jacob’s Creek goes global, to the United Kingdom

1994 – Awarded the prestigious Maurice O’Shea Award for Outstanding Contribution to the Australian Wine Industry. The first time a brand had received this award rather than individual.

1998 – Jacob’s Creek Chardonnay Pinot Noir sparkling is introduced

2002 – Jacob’s Creek Visitor’s Centre opens, with a time capsule buried under it, to be revealed in 2027

2005 – Official wine of the Australian Open

2008 – Ranked #1 among the World’s 100 Best Wineries in 2008 by the World Association of Wine Writers and Journalists

2011-2018 – 8 years of continuously being awarded amongst World’s Most Admired Wine brands by Drinks International magazine

2020 – Launches organic wine label

2021 – Collab between St Hugo range and F1 racer Daniel Ricciardo

First Published in India Today Spice 2021

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What Will They Think Of Next? India’s Tryst With Wine In A Can

Two can of beer, female and male hands on the background of a beautiful, wooden surface. Top view, close-up. Concept of leisure and travel

Of the ‘coolest’ trends coming out in 2020, one has to be India’s acceptance of wine-in-a-can. Albeit Sula Vineyards putting their 8 years old brand, Dia Sparkling, in cans last year, it really exploded in the markets this year. Fratelli Vineyards joined the party with their canned red, white, sparkling, sparkling rose medium-sweet wines, called TILT, recently. While the packaging, appeal and branding are utterly exciting, wine-in-a-can concept is still in its adolescence, and most believe it may be just too early to comment on its future in the country.

Is it a fad or something to stay, Gagan SHARMA, Certified Sommelier and wine educator explores. 

PUTTING WINE IN A CAN – WHO FIRST?

The first official study about the concept was conceived nearly half a decade ago in the US, which remains the biggest wine-in-a-can market. Between 2018-2019 the market has grown by 70% in the US, and 125% in the UK alone. Traditional countries like France and Italy are joining the race as well. Returning to the US, various factors have contributed to the success of this nouveaux category.

One being the ease of carrying, storing, and serving the cans. Add to that their catchy labelling and visuals, which have become absolutely imperative for the social media and Insta-ready generation (after all, they’re the fine wine genes of the future!). Others are the ease of committing to a 180-250-330ml can over a 750ml bottle, which many find a commitment bigger than marriage, or adopting a puppy. Not just the liquid, it is a financial commitment too!!

And then think of the technical jargons one has to record and decipher – the understanding of languages, regions, sub-regions, villages, crus, vintage charts, terroirs, etc. Then comes the NASA-equivalent act of uncorking a bottle, decanting it with panache, and watching it breathe. And what follows next? You drink half, and don’t know how to store the rest, since, you know, spoilage is a science by itself. Eh! Who wants that? It’s intimidating! A peppy looking can, with bright colours, a funky name, ready to rip open, and sip away, while holding a burger, a sub, or an avocado toast in the other hand, that’s more millennial-appropriate.

MILLENNIALS – FOCUS ALL THE WAY

Millennials definitely reign over the biggest portion of this pie. But, they haven’t just stuck to the basics. In 2019, over 60 percent of craft beers were packaged in cans. And cans are becoming the container of choice for beverages, think of water, coffees, soft drinks, beers, etc. Younger consumers are now perceiving cans as premium packaging. Taking advantage of this, winemakers are now making some bold moves of putting premium wines in cans, wines that can be vineyard specific, varietal specific, even vintage dated. What’s even better is that with the replacement of corks, wines don’t fear a chance of cork taint, rapid oxidation, being skunked or light-stuck, or a variety of other such complications. Yet, red wines are still to gather acceptability, the largest group remains roses and whites. Maybe the purists are hesitant to see their beloved Bordeauxs, Super Tuscans, Aussie Cabernets, or prestigious Chilean wines in an aluminium carrier just yet. After all, as we said, we are still waiting and watching.

WINE IN A CAN – AS GOOD AS FROM THE BOTTLE?

To get the stiff old school wine-in-a-bottle drinkers to see the magic of this new avatar, wine-in-a-can producers have been running trials and blind tasting tests to see if the packaging makes any difference in the quality of the liquid. Some have found that it was nearly impossible to tell them apart, giving the industry a much-needed morale boost. It does inch us closer to believing that it may after all not just be a fad, but a trend to stay.

India has added the concept to its repertoire with commendable acceptability. The price point works too. Sula’s Dia retails at INR180 for a 330ml can, at 8% abv. While Fratelli’s TILT is at the same price mark, it pours 250ml, at a higher 11%. Having said that, for the connoisseurs of even the most basic wines they both pose a challenge. One, they both offer only bubbly wines thus far, and the other, that their wines are semi sweet or sweeter. With that comes the problem – how much sugar can you imbibe? Nonetheless, not for once have I seen even the social-drinkers not get excited on seeing the cans and jumping on to try them. If they like it or not is for later, getting enthused and providing instant acceptability is definitely promising.

WHERE DO THEY FIT?

For the hospitality space, these cans offer solutions to a plethora of traditional problems. Be it spoilage, storing, portion size, disposal of glass, confusing glassware and their maintenance, easy service protocols, resolved staff training and development, being great for mini bars, in-room-dining, brunches, pool side parties, at banquets, and much more. However, is it ready to be accepted as that, only time will tell.

Some believe it will be a long wait before they are. And what about their future? Radlers, cocktails, premixes, flavoured wines? Who knows, but there’re definitely possibilities, opportunities, and innovations awaiting. Till then, you must get a can for yourself, of a few maybe, throw them in a chiller, try them for yourself and see if they satiate your wine cravings. Or do you miss the ritual of opening a bottle and a fine sommelier’s story telling too much?

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Indian Gin

Undoubtedly, it’s the golden hour for innovations in Indian spirits. And amongst them, the blue-eyed child are the new Indian gins. With a thick Indian accent, unprecedented brio, nostalgia-suffused storytelling, and endless trials of flavours, they’ve stirred up a storm, one that the country and its tipplers hadn’t seen before. It’s so engraved now that if your Instagram profile doesn’t have a picture of an Indian gin, you’ll easily be called a social outcast. So, what’ve these homegrown gins done, in only a couple of years, that’s arrested everyone’s attention? We enquire.

British gins were the first to catalogue their botanicals on the bottle, tell their stories, and mesmerise the global population with the idea. Neither were their botanicals local, nor were they the epitomes of storytelling. Yet, consequently it became the norm. “For the longest time, western gins were taking our story, our botanicals, and reselling them to us. Now, after decades, there’s increasing curiosity in knowing about Indian botanicals and stories”, notes Anand Virmani, creator of Hapusa & Greater Than. And so should it be. After all, we were on the Spice Route for a reason. Karina Aggarwal of Terai further explains, “There’s been a global cultural shift. Everyone’s interested in knowing what they’re consuming, its source, how they’ve been cultivated, traded, etc. And with Indians travelling extensively now, their understanding of ingredients has grown drastically. There’s a sense of pride in supporting homegrown produce and how many you’ve tried”. 

EFFORT LESSLY INDIAN

Indian households, mythology, ceremonies, and rituals have for long revolved around botanicals, florals, and citruses. Be it the morning prayers around the Tulsi plant, or nimbu-mirchi hanging on trucks & lorries, or betel leaves, nutmeg, rice, sugar on puja thalis, scents and flavours have forever been the thread holding our daily lives. Put all these emotions & essences in a bottle, and it’ll be hauntingly intriguing. Accepting them will come naturally. In what’s traditionally been a dark spirit market, no one has consciously allowed such an expression that these new Indian Gins have. And it makes complete sense why we’d effortlessly get allured by them, and not position them as snobbish, but somewhat our companion. Forget not, ease and convenience is what’s driving the world now anyway.

EASY ACCEPTABILITY

Anand recalls from his earlier stint, at Hendricks gin’s launch, people enquired what whiskies were being poured at the bar. Now, a decade on, people enquire about the gins on offer. Aman Thadani, creator of Pumori, calles dark spirits a tricky proposition. “Whiskies & rums have their histories, templates, ageing, cask finishes, terminologies, etc. All this makes them pretty technical. Gin on the other hand is a free and simpler playing field”. Aditya Aggarwal, founder of Samsara, adds “Gins are easier to talk about. They create a nostalgic recall, and forego the technical gyaan one has to invest in before picking a dram”. Vidur Gupta, co-founder of Stranger & Sons, echoes the thought. “Unlike years of encyclopaedic information crunching in wine studies, gins are easy. And their mixability & versatility makes it further playful.” Karina adds, “it’s also the image of dark spirits in India, a quirky whisky bottle can also be questionable, let alone how to drink it, or the glass of your choice. With gins, there are no such moulds.”

PLAY OF BOTANICALS + IDEAS

However, the spice box of the world has so much to offer, it could be easy to overdo. Even the thought of constructing a gin in India can be daunting. Greater Than was the first craft gin in the country in 2017. Anand recalls, “we had a clean slate and could do whatever. It was equally exciting and confusing. We started with 120-130 single ingredients, then started putting them together, and the final recipe had only 10-12 ingredients”. Vidur says “we have a problem of plenty in India. There’s an endless list of botanicals we know of and even bigger one of those we don’t”. However, “No single ingredient is going to trigger someone into liking a gin. It does become a differentiating factor though, one that enriches their experience”, Anand adds. 

In such a vast expanse of ingredients, then how does one construct a gin? “Your gin distills down from your concept. We wanted to make a gin that’s bold, stands out in the crowd, is inherently Indian, and resonates with London as much as it does with Delhi. And to achieve that, our homework was to taste over 300 gins!!”, Vidur reminisces. Karina opines “though it’s a combination of various things, foremost are your personal preferences and knowing the palate of your audience. What reigns eventually is that it must be a product of provenance”. And the expression expands beyond just what’s inside the bottle. Aman puts it aptly, “put gin in a bottle versus a story, and you’ll see the difference. Before one picks a bottle, if you could tell them its inspiration and journey, the experience will grow manifolds”. Karina adds “from the label design to the bottle style, the gin needs to stand out, and have its own personality & identity. Consumers are also asking their tipples to be different, and it’s imperative that new gins do that.”

GINCREDIBLE INDIA

From these plethora of emerging ideas, one that shines is that of celebrating India. Our creators are proudly coining and nearly-boasting inscriptions like ‘India Dry’, ‘India Spirited’, ‘Himalayan Dry’ on their labels. But what are these terms and what do they signify? Like London Dry Gin, is there one that defines Indian gins? It’s simply too early to say. There’s no one India, in its geographic spread, cultural diversity, culinary spreads, languages, and attractions, there’re mere interpretations. And thats the most exciting feature in these new gins. They’ve celebrated India for Indians, that too at a time when our politics and a pandemic have divided us like never before. There’s a dire need for something that binds us together and makes us fall in love with our India again, and Indian gins are playing their part. 

Creators have very carefully and distinctly picked various features of India and put them in their bottles, on their labels, and in their stories. Haupsa, sanskrit for juniper, celebrates foraging local juniper from the snow-clad Himalayan mountains. A whiff of its gin teleports you to a rustic land with moist wood, petrichor, forest-floor, and fills you with a sense of adventure. Terai descends to the fertile & plush lowlands and has an imposing Indian accent through its fennel, tulsi, citrus, and floral hues, kindling a comforting assurance of botanicals you instantly resonate with. Stranger & Sons celebrates the Indian ghats and its agricultural diversity by putting a complex mix of spices, citruses, and aromatic botanicals in the hue. It teases you before it arrests you like a cruel mistress and doesn’t let you go. Samsara picked its botanical and aromatics reminiscing the scents at an Indian ceremony and the gin exhibits that in its floral liveliness, captivating secret citruses, and a regal khus note. And for once think, what do Himalayas, plush lowlands, the ghats, and Indian ceremonies have in common – nothing. And what’s India without either of them – nothing. And thats the play that Indian gins have mastered – there’s a union even in their diversity.

EMPOWERING THE CONSUMER

Finally, at a time of home drinking culture, where conversations around a refined drink have become the norm, gins are providing a reason to celebrate. Aditya exclaims “there’s a lot to resonate for everyone from a single sniff and sip of a gin”. Karina agrees and adds, “there’s a level of familiarity Indian gins offer, be it in the botanicals, or in their names, or designs”. Gin & Tonics have become the new norm. Vidur isn’t surprised, “we are a hot & social country, drinking chilled tall drinks makes sense”. Anand is on the same page and says “we’re in a country where whiskies are our almost national drink, but why? Drinking ideas from the EU don’t make sense in India”. Aman opines “consumers have elevated their game and for them a gin’s not a gin, a tonic’s not a tonic anymore, it’s much more”. 

Karina takes it a step ahead and claims “you can’t do anything wrong with gins, add any cordial, flavours, syrups, tonics, sodas, garnishes, throw them in any glass and it’s acceptable. Do that to a single malt whisky and you’ll get stares from every corner of the room. Unlike with some other spirits, here the consumer decides how they appreciate it. And you might be the only one who has that concoction in that pincode, which is so empowering”. And even for a humble G&T, Aditya says “there’s such sincerity in the process – cutting the fruits, getting the ice, picking garnishes, apt glassware, which elevates the aesthetics of the drink and the drinking ritual.” Sounds pretty civilised, eh!! 

India was always celebrated for its precise craftsmanship, and botanical offerings. With over a dozen gins on the shelves already, and many getting dressed to be unveiled, all in a span of 4 years, the gin revolution has been announced. There’s such promise in the category that one can’t help but anticipate more exciting introductions. If you haven’t befriended and added Indian gins to your repertoire, do it promptly. This wave isn’t calming down. 

 

First published in Sommelier India The Wine Magazine

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Summer In A Glass

Yay!! Summers here. It’s time to host endless brunches (or drunches!!), poolside parties, and balmy evening rooftop soirees. And while at them what fits well is something that makes you move the least, and pours the most. Something you don’t have to put together endless inventive ingredients for, stir, shake, and muddle, into a library of fancy glasswares to fix a decent quaffer. And think of the repeats, lord mercy!! It’s the time to simply pop open a bottle, share it with your tribe, and laze sans the effort. Kiss your dark spirits and complex cocktails away, and traverse to your wine cellars, its time for them to make you look effortlessly suave, and lift the mood.

For a true oenophile every wine is a perfect summer wine, but when the mercury drops, you need a vino that’s served cooler than your AC blasts. They must be served chilled, have refreshing high acidity, preferably have no or very little tannins, and must be light enough to simply float on your palate and quench your thirst. Any wine that ticks these four simple boxes deserves sitting in your cups.

So, simply stay away from heavy reds, boozy fortified wines, and the sticky ones, the later especially. These wines pack a devilish kiss and have immense persuasiveness to turn you into a sloth or a zombie in a single serve. Summers are the time for light, citrus, and aromatic whites, roses and bubblies. If you’re trying to fit in a red, pour it in a glass, tilt it over a page of a Murakami novel, and see if you can read a page through it. If it works, chill it, and put it up. If that’s what you fancy, say hello to Pinot Noir and Beaujolais.

WHAT WORKS AND WHY

Dry, crisp, citrus, aromatic whites are a no-brainer. A gentle sniff should transport you to the farmlands and orchards, and the juicy citrus burst should put dew drops in the scenes with their refreshing lemon-lime play. Sauvignon Blancs and Rieslings are the perfect varietals for the season. And if you’re looking for something much simpler pick up a Pinot Grigio, Chenin Blanc, or a Viognier and watch them elevate your drinking rituals.

Roses do exactly the same, along with a generous serving of panache, elegance, and personality. These pink and salmon-hued drops are an absolute delight and keep either side of the drinkers satiated. Roses have a bust of crisp citrus, a rounder mouthfeel than their white counterparts, and a husky play of tannins to keep your tongue running over your teeth, reminiscing about the last sip and gently moving you towards another.

My perpetual go-to are the bubblies. They are a no-fuss, crowd pleaser and are the easiest to manoeuvre through with a tableful of delectable dishes. Forget not, they are served the most chilled amongst all winestyles, and there’s a ceremonial celebration each time the cork pops!! Add a few spoonfuls of fresh fruits, puree of peaches or apricots, and top it up with a sparkling wine and they make the perfect spritzer. A word of advice, whichever wine you may settle with, drink their youngest freshest avatar. The pompous, late-maturing, hefty wines are for the winters, summers are for accentuating the youth.

India’s been making some really worthy wines alongside those you’ve backpacked their ways on to our shelves. Here’s a pick of our favourite wines that’ll be crowding the community tables this season:

Jacob’s Creek Sparkling Brut, AUSTRALIA

Aussies have championed the art of making bubblies, and Jacob’s Creek is an unmistakable synonym. The play of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir brings a respectable charm and balance while maintaining a crisp mouthfeel, a citrus backbone, complimenting the mouse from bottle fermentation. An evergreen aperitif, a bankable serve, amazing with canapes, and biriyanis.

Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc, NEW ZEALAND

Think of a cool, crunchy leafy salad, with arugula leaves, pears, bell peppers, shards of piquant goats cheese, and a vinaigrette dressing. Sauvignon Blanc is the perfect marriage for that. Ethereal, crisp, gripping with hauntingly aromatic notes of lime, green veggies, gooseberries, and a playful lift of white florals. Chill it to the bone and hand over a glass to even a novice and see they eyebrows lift up with absolute amazement.

Campo Viejo Rioja Blanco, SPAIN

Viura meets Chardonnay meets Espana, what’s to go wrong in that trio? Viura is a rather introverted varietal that’s meant for those who like there wines to be subtle, not in-your-face, but pack a punch in the right places. It’s crispness is unparalleled to any other varietal making it a deserving partner for seafoods and baked dishes.

Jacob’s Creek Classic Chardonnay, AUSTRALIA

Its love-affair with Indian palate makes it the easiest contender to be on the list. Limey citrus with some white fruits, a play of creamy texture, with an earthy back, it’s a timeless charmer. It’s effortless to like and even easier to polish off a bottle of before anyone even notices. Stews, baked meats, and creamy preparations and this beauty, an utter delight.

Brancott Estate Pinot Noir, NEW ZEALAND

Think of a summery red and Pinot with jump out of your brain even before the end of the sentence. And if it’s from NZ, it’s a jackpot. NZ Pinots are smooth, light, and fragrant with ample dosage of red berries, rhubarb, rose petals, sweet cherries, and can quickly develop some complexity too. Any tomato-based gravy dish, mezze, simple mediterranean preparation, of a salmon dish, put a Pinot next to it and see people fall in love with their marriage.

York Vineyards Cuvee Brut Rose, INDIA

York’s winemaking style fills the trio of sensuality, aromatics, and a flirtatious slither of complexity in every bottle. A commendable rose bubbly that has never failed to impress from its first vintage. It’s minerally, controlled on the lees, and packs ample hues of florals, red fruits, and a cherry bite at the back.

Vallonne Vineyards Chenin Blanc, INDIA

Probably the most bankable Chenin Blanc you’ve not heard of or tasted thus far. It’s brimming with varietal flavours of green fruits, acacia flowers, an leafy bite, and a lemony acidity, making it a perfect open-relish-repeat proposition.

Grover Zampa Art Collection Riesling, INDIA 

The new kid on the block is the perfect balance of citrus, tropical fruit ripeness, flavour sweetness, and honeyed notes. It’s the harmony in its elements that makes it an easy sipper, but it’s not just that. Crack open one and find it for yourself.

Reveilo Wines Grillo, INDIA 

Amongst the most under-rated whites in the country that you only need to try once to befriend. Juicy citrus, white stone-fruits plushness, a hint of candied back, and ample character makes Grillo an amazing pick. An incomparable personality on the list, thank us later.

Sula Vineyards The Source Grenache Rose, INDIA

Amongst the most respectful roses out there right now, The Source rose is for those who understand their wines well. The play of red fruit flavours, a cherry twang, flirtatious tannin profile, and a mineral grip makes it a playful yet an astute rose. A definite bankable proposition.

Fratelli Vineyards MS Sangiovese Rose, INDIA

A pleasing aromatic nose, burst of lively flavours, bright fruity citrus, a clever grip on the palate, and  a candied finish, the thought of this salmon-hued rose alone puts a smile on one’s face. Relishing it is an even better joy.

First published in India Today Spice magazine in May 2021

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Discovering Grappa’s Magic

They call it the ‘Italian firewater’ and regard it as their prized possession. Some call it the son of the waste of wine industry while others regard it as a coveted drink that defines the Italian spirit just right. Sharp, pungent, herbaceous, and highly alcoholic, ‘Grappa’ is not everyone’s cup of tea. The spirit has been around for the Italians from the turn of the fourteenth century and but never earned its due respect until a few years ago. But now the world has opened their bars for it and is becoming a connoisseurs’ delight.

Not only is its origin controversial, it’s interesting too.  One of the stories suggests that its first citations dated back to 1443 in the custom documents of Piedmont when it was called ‘Branda’ in the local Piedmontese dialect. Because it was not a brandy in true sense but a grape distillate some believe this story to be unreal. The other one states that Grappa was originally made in a town located in Nothern Italy’s Veneto region called Bassano del Grappa and that’s where it gets its name from. This sounds more credulous. But what is a given fact is that the Medieval Latin word ‘grappolus’ owes Grappa its true origin which means bunch of grapes.

So what is Grappa? Simply put, it’s a grape pomace distillate. Pomace , pronounced as ‘pomak’, is simply the moist skins and pips, or grape husk, left over from the pressings of grapes at the winery. In Italy pomace is called vinaccia, pronounced as ‘win-aa-chi-ya’, and the producers believe quicker the vinaccia comes to them the better it is. As the raw material is extremely sensitive prolonged delays can cause not only off-flavours but also lead to producing some harsh alcohol. A bottle of grappa requires 15 kilos of vinaccia for its production which comes from about 100 kilos of grapes. The stems are a complete no-no as they end up releasing methane, the deadly alcohol. Therefore, distillers believe in sourcing vinaccia only from the closest sources. For bigger facilities they store their vinaccia covered in impermeable covering topped up with sand to ensure on air is left behind. From here the vinaccia directly goes in for distillation making it unique in its own way as there is no other spirit made in which solid raw material is fed in to the distillation tanks. The tanks are specially made as they resemble a bain marie with a water bath running between the outer and the inner tanks. This prevents the skins from direct contact with the heat source and restricts sticking and burning of the skins.

Grappas were meant to be clear, i.e. unaged. With the growth of darker spirits like Cognacs, Whiskies, Rums, and the likes, in the international market the demand for aged grappas grew manifolds. As a result distillers started to mature their spirits in oaks for short periods, ideally one year or so. The oak not only provides it a darker hue but also rounds off the spirit by smoothening its sharp alcohol, acidity, and providing an extra element of flavor. Today distillers prefer to not only blend their Grappas but also age them in a variety of oaks ranging from American, French, Portugese, and Sherry casks, and also different toasts levels. 

There’s a constant debate amongst the producers about Grappa made from single varietal versus a mixed vinaccia. Black grapes are regarded to produce better distillates as they’re not only more aromatic but also produce lesser methanol than the whites. While blended vinaccia produces complex distillates, aged or unaged, connoisseurs believe that single varietal Grappas are better received by the drinkers. This wasn’t always the case though. It was Madame Giannolo Nonino in the early 1970s that started producing single varietal Grappas. To promote her unique produce she would offer her distillates for free to journalists, restaurateurs, and other clients. She would often come to these restaurants and host informal tastings of her products with the regular diners and showcase what different grape based distillates could do. Since then it became and international phenomenon and Grappa culture changed for good. 

During my recent trip to Italy we had a sojourn at the Francoli Distillery in Ghemme, Piedmont. Mr. Luigi Francoli, the founder of the facility was a known personality in area. His son Mr. Alessandro Francoli takes care of the distillery now and talks passionately about Grappa. They produce 22 different styles of Grappas and are amongst the biggest producers in the region. On asking him about how his family has seen Grappa progress all this while he says “the Grappa category as a whole is stagnant in the domestic market and only slightly growing internationally. For our company the Grappa sales are in the positive sign both in Italy and outside”. Not only in Piedmont, Prosecco giant Carpene Malvolti also produces Grappas from their Glera grape husks. Their Grappas are definitely different from those of Francoli’s as the grape is an aromatic one and showcases its potential even after everything is taken away from producing a sparkling gem. Another astonishing product comes from the house of Brancaia in Tuscany where Mr. Martin Kronenberg makes a vintage grappa every year from the vinaccia of their expensive top-end wine only from a mix of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The grappa is not distilled in Tuscany but in Piedmonte, as historically intended.

Grappa was considered to be a bi-product of the wine industry. It never earned its due respect amongst the drinking class. Vinaccia was a waste and grappa received a matching stand in the society. Grappas are best served chilled in small glasses straight as an after dinner drink as it aids digestion. Alternatively, Grappa mixed with espresso was also served as ‘Café Corretto’ either in early morning or post-dinner. The working class drank it in a single shot to bring fiery heat during the shivering winters in Northern Italy. It is only recently that it has gained acceptance by the society other than the working class. If you’ve never tried it you’re in for a treat. It is an acquired taste and must be dealt with patience. Once understood, Grappa is like Cognac or single malt whiskies. 

 

First published in Spiritz Magazine in February, 2012

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Tempranillo – A Rockstar From Spain

rows of a vineyard in autumn

Among the grapes that capture the essence of their representative country’s wines production one must make due mention of Tempranillo and all it achieves for Spanish Tintos. Synonymous with Rioja, the variety has silently resided in every corner of the country with different names for ages. Initially, it received a slow welcome on the international scene. But, upon arrival, many authorities lauded it as the ‘Next Big Thing’.

ORIGINS OF TEMPRANILLO

Whilst it is Spain’s local find, a legend claims that it was the Burgundian monks who carried its cuttings from France on their way to Santiago, and dropped them off at the monasteries here. Following this, claims were also made that Pinot Noir and Tempranillo may have similar parentage. While that may be dubious, they do share some similarities, one being their early ripening, called ‘temprano’ in Spanish, from where the grape gets its name, meaning the ‘little early one’. Now it flourishes in the cooler parcels of Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Penedes, and Navara. With over 550 clones and mutations, it even has something to fill up the hot vineyards of Valdepenãs, Toro, and even Portugal for its treasured Ports. 

TEMPRANILLO GOES TRAVELING

Phylloxera demolished the French vineyards, in early 1880s. It resulted in a situation where they had international demands but no means of catering to them. They turned towards the Spanish vineyards seeking some remedy. Considering the climate, the French brought Grenache to make wines. The plan was to transported them to Bordeaux, bottle them, and sell as French produce. The French went back, but left a library of knowledge. However, they left behind the know-how to make quality wines. The Bordeaux recipe demanded marrying various varietals and resting them in oak for complexity.

Shortly after, Rioja took charge and not only adopted the recipe but also let Grenache flourish locally. Today, blending is ideal in Rioja reds. Tempranillo’s lacking acidity, tannins, and colour Grenache compensates. Luckily, it also improved with oak-ageing. American oak barrels are preferred. Rioja reds have earned a reputation of being ‘vanilla-scented’, thanks to this. Ribera del Duero, however, exploits the advantage of hot continental climate, blended with the altitude of nearby hills. This ensures a well-ripened acidic fruit, the pillars for the wine to age on.

SHADES TEMPRANILLOS

A well-handled Tempranillo has everything an easy drinking wine should have. From good bright colour, moderate acidity, low supple tannins, fruity flavours of strawberry, mulberries, red cherries, it has everything. Grow it in cool climates and it will provide mouth-watering acidity at the cost of low colour and tannins, rendering a quaffable wine. Too hot a climate and the wine will be tannic and thick with no structure. It is the play of climate that makes a good Tempranillo. Rioja does furnish age-worthy wines worthy of easy five to 10 cellaring years.

Howbeit, it’s the balance of heat and altitude in Ribera del Duero that produces pure Tempranillos. They’re worthy of aging up to thirty years! Houses like Vega Sicilia and Dominio de Pingus rubbish the argument against Tempranillo’s ageing potential. They’ve also earned spot in the world’s most sought-after wines, soon becoming Spanish fine wine identity. Upon maturity, it’s similar to a matured Pinot Noir, savoury and meaty, rarely too complex. They develop and produce notes of coffee beans, leather, cigar, forest floor, cedar wood, and appreciated for their ‘tobacco leaf’ character.

DRINKING TEMPRANILLO

Tempranillo has everything New World wines offer; burst of juicy fruits, supple tannins, lively acidity, freshness, and an appeal of difference. Regarding its acceptability, Australia, California, Argentina, Mexico, and South Africa have opened their vineyards to the varietals in the past two decades. India has followed suit. Charosa Vineyards, the latest entrant to Indian quality wine brigade, and the illustrious Grover-Zampa alliance are now producing worthy Tempranillo. Crediting these successful experiments, we now have something unique and playful. Especially, if Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot don’t capture your fancies anymore.

Charosa Vineyard Reserve Tempranillo, Nasik, India – INR1500 – Juben Wines, Mumbai

Country’s first pure Tempranillo red that has impressed the desi palates with its first vintage release itself. Nurtured under the cooler shadows of the Dindori hills in Nasik, the grapes ripen to their pristine best. This ensures a balance of flavours, and much required phenolic structure. Patiently maturing in French oak for a year further adds character and nuances of finesse. The nose provides a fresh burst of sweet vanilla-scented oak, sweet baking spices, and ripe juicy red fruits. Strawberries, raspberry compote, plum mash, and red cherry syrup fill up the palate soon after drawing a sip. Then, follows the refreshing acidity and round tannins, ending with an alluring and subtle aftertaste. The combination of these characteristics with a youthful appeal, and medium body makes the wine an easy-drinking proposition. Pair it with lamb stew, Malabar chicken, or even pork sausages tossed in pancetta and beans.

Grover Zampa Chêne Grand Reserve, Nasik, India – INR1700 – Juben Wines, Mumbai

With an initial limited release of only 3000 bottles, the much-awaited Chêne finally reached the shelves last year. Denoting ‘oak’ in French, it draws a picture of powerful blend with a blanket of granular oaky notes. The nose open up to ripe dark fruit notes like cassis, blackberry, dark cherry mash, and plums. The fruit is accompanied with subtle traces of warm and baking spices with sweet vanilla notes. All this bound with robust and sturdy oak. The aftertaste leaves the palate lifted with chewy yet long-lingering matured savoury tones. Touches of liquorices, roasted coffee beans, and cigar smoke follow. The wine rests in the cellars for up to three years before released. Yet, it’s worth lying it down for a few more.

Torres Ibericos Crianza, Rioja, Spain – INR1800 – Defence Store, Delhi

Owing its name to the Iberian Peninsula, the land of oak trees, home of the wood on which the wine rests during its adolescent first year to be called a Crianza. Spanish reds are difficult to not like. Torres family, guarantees quality. Delicate fruity aromas of raspberries, cranberries, red currants, sweet cherry syrups, and a touch of moist earthiness are gently wrapped with spicy tones, vanilla and cinnamon hints. A juicy palate and a round mouthfeel compliments the palate. Fruit-rich palate with an uplifting delicacy and harmony allows returning to the wine without much thought. A good pairing with lamb shanks, kadhai preparations, tandoori mushrooms, and smoke-cured ham cuts.

Torres Celeste, Ribera del Duero, Spain – INR – 3000, House of Spirits, Delhi

The celestial configuration of Ribera del Duero’s cloud-kissing hills owes the wine its name. The natural relationship between day’s bright sunlight and evening’s chilly calm promises propitious wines. And, Torres Celeste is the window in to Ribera del Duero’s finesse-bound reds. Noticeable deep colour marks the first indication about the wines strength. Matured and intense nose opens up to black pepper hints, dark olives, liquorice, toasted oak, and aged meat. Substratum of matured dark fruits compliments the ripened tannins, warmth from the alcohol, and full bodied robustness of the wine. It is an elegant drop which can age well too. Rest it for 5-7 years and relish it with a discerning grilled steak or lamb rack, charred chicken breast, Chettinad preparations, or spicy chorizo dishes.

Marquse de Riscal Reserva, Rioja, Spain – INR3860, House of Spirits, Delhi

The winery gathered international attention in 1895 when it became the first non-French winery to win the much coveted certificate of honour at the Bordeaux Exhibition. With an architectural genius that can be spotted from a distance, the winery is the mecca for quality wine production in Rioja. It effortlessly serves as a benchmark for many budding wineries. Dusty nose captured the essence of traditionalist winemaking style with notes of meat, candied bacon, balsamico, red fruit compote, touches of sweet oak, earthiness, and minty calm. Palate holds the full bodied weight supporting the ripe dark fruit notes, leathery touches, with roasted coffee beans, nutmeg, bayleaf, and toasted nuts, finishing with a velvety tannic chewiness. A good portion of paneer lababdar with butter naan, lamb biriyani, mutton rogan josh, veal schnitzel, and gamey preparations can do justice to the wine.

Bodegas Roda, Reserve, Rioja, Spain – INR 7596 – Mumbai

The mesmerising wines of Bodegas Roda are a treat and deserve a laudable occasion to be savoured. Having spent over three years in the cellars, the wine matures to the discipline of a unique character of its own. Aromas are captivating, vibrant floral note upfront is followed by rich and ripe red fruit character overlapping fresh sweet oak and baking spice tones. Soft mouthfeel with round juicy tannins allows the wine to create a rich impression. Enjoy it best with gamey meats, oven-roasted camembert with caramelised pepper and red onion, pork spare ribs, and black bean chicken.

Bodega Beronia Reserva, Rioja, Spain – INR3510, House of Spirits, Delhi

Named after the warrior tribe of Celtic origin, the Berones, who called their land Beronia, the wine is as humble and grounded as the thought of its moniker. Having spent initial years in barrels followed by a long term in the bottle, the elixir is brought to its utmost finesse. The 2007 vintage we recently tasted was a burst of assortment of aromas and nuances. Complexity takes over with notes of dark chocolate, bayleaf, cinnamon, leather, cigar leaf, forest floor, touch of aged balsamico, smoked meat, chewy wet wood, sweet oak, and hint of foie gras. Velvety delectable tannins, refreshing acid back, and soothing balanced alcohol aid in supporting the wine in its prime.

Beronia breaks the notion that Rioja’s seldom age well, it can live a healthy long life. My picks for sharing the table with would be a traditional roasted chicken dish, pan-seared red snapper, aged grilled pork chop, or a simple dal makhani.

Principe de Viana Crianza, Navarra, Spain – INR 1680 – , House of Spirits, Delhi

Navarra Tempranillos are hard to spot on any wine list in India. Known for their fleshy fruitiness and individuality, however, the reds from the region are overshadowed by Rioja and Ribera del Duero legends. Principe de Viana defined modernistic production in Navarra and the wines show the same. Even after aging it for a year in oak, fruit dominates and display notes of soft berry flavours, cassis, blackcurrant, plums, and black cherry, infused with subtle hints of chestnut, coconut, chocolate, vanilla and cinnamon from the oak. A simple easy drinking drop with good structure and balanced that can be paired with Moroccan lamb shank, kosha mangsho with lucchi, sausage platter, Mangalore style vegetable curry, even pan seared salmon.

 

Tip: Tempranillos are best savoured in their youth, only some can age.

 

 

First Published in BBC GoodFood Magazine in July 2014

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In Praise Of Brunello Di Montalcino

Italy holds many vinous gems in its arsenal, more reds than whites. Some that have ruled the palates of aristocrats and kings, marking their place firmly in the history of the country, and some that woke up to their true potential a tad later. Amongst the latter is a wine style that no commendable wine-list across the globe can be complete without – Brunello di Montalcino. Located not far from the Tuscan tourist city of Sienna, Montalcino has for long attracted the top palates and price tags for its muscular and age-worthy reds. However this glory is fairly recently albeit rapidly earned, especially when seen through the prism of Italy’s glorious winemaking history.

STORY SO FAR

The local holm oak trees, called Lecchi, owe the hill its name thus called Montalcino. The region has been repeatedly mentioned in the history for winemaking since the 12th Century but nothing noteworthy came forth till the 19th Century. It was in early 1800s that a group of farmers started experimenting and planting what was considered to be a superior clone of Sangiovese called ‘Brunello’ or ‘Brunellino’. The clone attracted some attention. Clemente Santi, one amongst the few interested farmers, grew especially inquisitive and investigated the clone further. He bottled his first varietal ‘Brunello’ wine in 1860, released by Ferruccio Bondi Santi in 1865. This can easily be claimed as the birth of what was to become amongst the most prominent varietal wine styles of the country. The wine soon sat amongst the top produces of the region, and then claimed its attention globally. However till the 1960s, the region was better known for its sweet and sparkling white wine called Moscadello. Brunello di Montalcino was conferred with DOC in 1966 and till 1970 Bondi Santi remained somewhat to sole player in the game. And then entered the American giant, Banfi, that had earned its reputation with the successful introduction of Lambrusco in the continent. Eyeing the Moscadello sparkling as its next success story, Banfi invested heavily in the area but were badly unsuccessful, thus turning all their plantings in to Brunello. It was not all rotten luck as Brunello di Montalcino became the first wine style to receive a DOCG seal in 1980. Thereafter it was a global phenomenon, with upto 70% of its production being relished abroad. Banfi does deserve a pat on their back for exploiting the well-established network of distribution from their Lambrusco success. 

IN THE VINEYARDS

Located South West and further inland from the hills of Chianti, Montalcino has a drier and warmer climate. This further makes it amongst the most arid of all Tuscan DOCG areas. Sangiovese, being the fussiest and notoriously moody at clonal, site, and soil selection seems to adore the area here. The bigger-berried clone, also called Sangiovese Grosso, has a reputation of providing somewhat a consistent yield in Montalcino, which in other parts of Tuscany is the hardest task for an agronomist. Where in Chianti sometimes the grapes are left lurking for more heat, here even the cooler pastures aren’t worried about its ripeness.

The hills are roughly divided between the north and the south. North, based on Galestro soil, is cooler and higher, rising upto 600 metres, providing lighter and elegant crop. The low-laying southern hills, based on clay, deliver more muscular yield and are often hauntingly aromatic, thanks to the cooling winds from the Orcia river. Thus, usually most wines are a mix of the two areas to exploit the best of both. 

To generalise the 2000 hectares of Brunello di Montalcino production territory will be inappropriate. It’s not as much to clonal selections, winemaking proficiency, oak integration, and aging regimen of the house as much as it’s to site selection, its elevation, aspect of the vineyards, and the parcels’ soils that the resultant wine would owe its personality. Since Montalcino was declared a UNESCO World Heritage city its viticultural area can no more be altered. This implies more owners of the same land. While this may result into more concentrated production and qualitative produce but at a higher price. The DOCG thus majorly includes small to mid-sized producers. Being a varietal wine style, there is always the lack of insurance of subsidiary varietals in case the vintage turns unsuccessful. Thus, these factors become further imperative to master to have a formidable and consistent produce that can justify its repute, identity, expression of the land, and the price-tag.

OAK TALKS

Much like the Piedmontese reds, there has been a split between producers in their oak regimen. In the 90s, there was a sudden inclination towards barriques. Wines turned oaky sweet and were marred with vanilla, somehow smothering the varietal and the terroir they wanted to showcase. Minus the fad of oaky, boisterous, and bold reds, barriques aided in faster maturation of wines which further implied quicker drinkability and sooner return on investment. However, much like many such fashions, this one wasn’t to stay for long. Producers here take pride in expressing that modernisation hasn’t come to stay at Montalcino. Most realised the dent it was bringing to the hard-earned image of Brunello di Montalcino wines and the dissatisfaction caused amongst its true admirers. Nearly all wineries have returned to the original/traditional style and using big bottis of five to six thousand litres. Though barriques aren’t completely discarded but they’re rarely the dominant influence anymore. Slavonian and French oak is readily used and vintage chestnut barrels frequently dot the cellars. Brunello di Montalcino DOCG recipe requires the wines to stay in oak for a minimum of two years and are released in the fifth leading from the harvest. For wines labelled as Riservas, another six months of oak raging is demanded and they occupy the shelves in their sixth year.Such long a wait further accentuates the price. To resort to this conundrum, a simpler DOC was introduced where the wines could be released after a year of harvest, with a kiss of oak-aging, and be labelled ‘Rosso di Montalcino’. These are fruity, fleshy, youthful, and vibrant rendition of the bigger, matured, and serious Brunello di Montalcino. It’s common to see these wines being rested in barriques that allow more grip and quicker aging to the liquid. It’s also noticeable that younger vines deliver yields for Rosso wines, while the more sturdy and older vines are reserved for Brunello and Riserva labels, yet again promising concentration and quality.

WINES TO TRY

With such variety and distinction in styles, generalising Brunello offerings will be unfair. Trying ample Brunellos and Riservas before making personal picks is sacrosanct. There were my definite favourites though. Bondi Santi’s 1997 Riserva was a testimony of the styles’ ageability, 2008 Casanova di Neri Cerretalto Brunello and Castello Banfi’s 2006 Poggio All’Oro Riserva proved the promise in tending the wine with patience. Le Ragnaie’s Fronace and Ragnaie V.V wines were a commendable window into the north-south divide, with my palate favouring the southern grip and structure. Il Poggione’s 2001 Brunello makes a noteworthy early-drinking drop and must be clutched to appreciate the youthfulness in its style. I’ve always appreciated Antinori’s Pian Delle Vigne Brunello for its maturity and drinkability at a favourable age, and especially for its ready availability in the Indian market. However, my pick from the region was the 2012 Brunello from the house of Sesta di Sopra, nestled in the southern reaches of Montalcino. Their single vineyards site, christened Sesta, was also rated by the Decanter Magazine amongst the 10 best crus in Italy. 

Montalcino may be a small tourist city buts its wines’ reputation is one that remains unchallengeable. Regarded as Tuscany’s response to Barolo, its maturity and depth is often spellbinding. Montalcino is not for the impatient, in-your-face, and practical palates. The style has stood the test of time and the wines display the regard for the same ever today. A perfect accompaniment to cigars and bodacious meats, especially game and cattle, Brunello di Montalcino is definitely worth an experience, and discerning occasion, especially once the bottle has celebrated its fifteenth birthday, has been left to breathe and awaken at its own sweet pace. With no place for any other varietal to intrude, or accompany in the bottle, Brunello di Montalcino is undoubtedly the best expression of Tuscan strength and potential. As long as Brunello di Montalcino will celebrate its own existence and tradition, our copas will be lifted in its embrace. Cin Cin!! 

First published in Sommelier India Wine Magazine in October, 2017

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Conversations with Indulge – Priyanka SAVE – Fruzzante

Priyanka Save
Priyanka Save - Fruzzante

Born in Bordi, Maharashtra, this mechanical engineer is knitting a new revolution in the Indian alcoholic beverages scenes. A passionate entrepreneur now, Priyanka, along with her spouse Nagesh Pai, Canadian fruit-winemaker Dominic Rivard, and her strong roots connecting Chikoo with nostalgia and the future, has introduced to the denizens of India – Fruzzante – a passionate #VocalForLocal brand making sparkling alcoholic drinks from Mud Apple, Oranges, Pineapple, Strawberries, Strafruit, Mango and more.

This is her story, one that can turn you from a curious imbiber to a passionate drinker. If you still need motivation, look out for her soon-to-be-released book Fermenting Dreams

What drew you to producing such a unique product fruzzante in the first place?

Our journey began when I returned from USA for good and having farm at home, I saw that our Chikoo produce was getting wasted to the tune of 40%. Me & and my husband Nagesh Pai decided to do something about this and after lot of R&D we freezed on the idea of making wine from Chikoo. Then we reached out to Dominic Rivard noted expert from Canada known to make alcoholic beverage from fruits. Thus, our idea birthed into Fruzzanté.

Being a completely unheard category, what challenges did you face? 

One of the earliest challenges that came to us were when we started making the Chikoo wine. It is a unique product and the first Chikoo wine in the world so there was quite an exhausting trial-and-error process. Another challenge was to get the excise duty exemption and getting fruit wines categorized among wines was also a major hurdle. We spent over three years and our concerted efforts eventually helped us get the exemption. 

It must’ve been challenging to educate your consumers, how did you bridge the gap?

This is still an ongoing process for us. Our target age group is young audience in the age group of 25 to 35 years primarily. We are a sparkling alcoholic beverage and take efforts to educate the consumers the difference between wine, cider and alcoholic beverage. This is a long and ongoing process and we are using every possible platform to educate people about the difference. 

What keeps you going in this line of profession?

Fruzzanté is my first entrepreneurial venture and it is always going to be like my child. The company has grown alongside my son and I cherish this project dearly. We had not planned on entrepreneurship when I returned from USA, but destiny made us entrepreneurs.

What’s your favourite tipple at the end of a busy day?

Our Starfruit Fruzzanté is my favourite. At the end of the hectic day, I like to take Sangria glass rimmed with salt & chilli and pour chilled Starfruit Fruzzanté. I recommend this highly to the readers too!

What’s your advice to young professionals seeking knowledge in this discipline?

I would say “Don’t be afraid to take on challenges and experiment with different products, you never know what you may discover”. 

Priyanka Save is the founder/director of Hill Zill Wines, the company that owns the Fruzzanté brand.

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Conversations with Indulge – Shamita Singha – Handpicked Wines

From being Femina Miss Earth, 2001, to being a supermodel, hosting her own shows, and campaigning against animal cruelty, and much more, Shamita has been a passionate ambassador of fine things. This turned her to wines and she took a dive, studying with the WSET, and there on to Burgundy, Bordeaux, Spain, and the Americas.

Now, Shamita educates enthusiasts about wines and shares the joy with her endeavour – Handpicked Wines

What first attracted you to wines?

The sheer romance of uncorking a bottle, right from the sound of the popping cork and the pouring liquid, to the aroma and taste on your palette… to deciphering the label and having a laugh with friends…. all of this made me fall in love with the process and the subject of wine. 

If wine had a beauty contest what would be the clincher question?

Describe yourself in wine terminology.  

How do you make wine sound more approachable and relatable to your clients?

I prefer to demystify the subject of wine to my clients or audience.  I believe that wine isn’t only for snobs or for occasions. Its a happy beverage that can be consumed everyday even in pyjamas and not only in a suit.  

What drink do you generally like to unwind with at the end of a work day?

Wine of course or sometimes with a cold beer too. 

Is there a wine no-no that we should all steer clear of?

Adding ice to your wine. 

And tell us of one wine no-no that you allow yourself to give in to?

Drinking red wine at indian summer room temperature. 

Any advice for young aspiring beverage enthusiasts in India especially for girls who aspire to work in this space?

Its definitely an exciting time as its a growing market. And wine awareness and consumption is increasing slowly but surely.   I would advise the young service industry as well as beverage enthusiasts to work more towards tastings and spreading awareness and serving quality wines which are in good health, rather than focusing on up selling or finishing stock. Make people fall in love with wine first, sales will follow automatically.

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Conversations with Indulge – Shailendra PAI, Vallonne Vineyards

Mr. Shailendra PAI is India’s first wine professional to become a vintner. As the Vice President of Champagne India, the first sparkling wine producing unit in the entire SE Asia, he was responsible for taking wine to various market of the world including UK, Germany, Sweden, Denmark, USA, Japan, Singapore etc. With four decades of experience in the wine business, he decided to pursue his long cherished dream of setting up a winery where the focus would be on quality and a holistic wine experience and in 2006, he set up Vallonné Vineyards as India’s first boutique winery which is now recognised by wine connoisseurs and consumers as a producer of quality wines. 

What drew you to the wine industry in the first place?

In the year 1986, I would read about the late Mr. Shyamrao Chougule in the papers and magazines. He had set up a winery that was to make sparkling wine for the first time in India and I was rather fascinated by his lifestyle—fast cars, guns, a lifestyle with wines. That attracted me to Champagne India Ltd, a wine company he had promoted. And that was my initiation into the world of wines. 

From your early days at Chateau Indage to now at Vallonne Vineyards, what’s the biggest change you’ve seen in the way Indian wines are perceived? 

Whilst I worked with Champagne India there was a huge curiosity about wines. However, it was difficult to initiate trials as the word ‘wine’ was alien to the Indian consumers. It was difficult to sell wine. 

Today, there is far more awareness about wines and definitely a huge interest. The curiosity has been converted into interest. Today, there are several homegrown wineries and many of these produce very good quality wines which are at par, or sometimes, even better than the wines from traditional wine producing regions. 

While the general perception is that Indian wines are not very good and as good as French or Italian or Californian or South African wines, there are several people who are recognising the high quality and potential of Indian wines and choosing to drink Indian wines. We have had several guests who have come to us with some apprehension about the quality of Indian wines and after drinking our wines, are now totally converted into Indian wine drinkers. So, the perception is definitely changing.

International wine experts, judges at competitions, wine buyers are acknowledging that there are some Indian wines that excellent in quality and that is also positively impacting the way Indian consumers view of wines. Wine experts and trainers also have a positive influence of consumers’ choices about Indian-made wines; sommeliers are also promoting Indian wines.

The winery tours and wine appreciation sessions that we conduct are very personalised and that also helps introduce our wines to people. We talk about what goes into making every bottle of wine and conduct these very detailed tasting sessions which has, in our experience, convert a lot of hard liquor drinkers into wine drinkers. So, the change in perception is very positive and encouraging.

What is Vallonne Vineyards winemaking style, and how would you define its philosophy?

Innovation and experimentation—I think that is what best defines our style of winemaking. Vallonne Vineyards are constantly experimenting with newer techniques, blends and wines. So, when we launched our rosé, we were the first one to make a rosé from the Cabernet Sauvignon; in 2011, we made the first ever Reserve Malbec in the country; our dessert wine, Vin de Passerillage is the only dessert wine in the country made using the painstaking straw wine technique where mature Chenin Blanc grapes are manually sun-dried in straw huts for a month. We require 150 people to work over a week to tie bunches of these grapes and hang them up for drying. 

Even at a more subtle winemaking level, which is not evident to consumers, but which impacts the quality greatly, we constantly innovate and try something new. 

The orientation is French-style wines. For the first six years, we had a winemaker from Bordeaux who set the protocols that continue to be followed today, however, with certain improvements/alterations according to the vintage, grapes and style. 

Our wines at Vallonne Vineyards are mostly dry and off-dry and we put a lot of emphasis on our reserve red wines which are aged in premium French oak barrels. In a very good vintage, we produce our grand reserve range called Anokhee where the wines, which have a great potential to improve with time, are aged in barrel and oak for a minimum of four years. 

As India’s first boutique winery, Vallonne Vineyards have been true to our philosophy of producing very high quality wines albeit in small quantities. 

What keeps you going in this line of profession?

My love for wines and the love that Vallonné receives from people! 

As you’d know, this is a very tumultuous and difficult industry with very deep lows and sharp highs. We don’t give in to pressures from the trade / restaurants for deep discounts and schemes because we believe in our wines and know that consumers, who appreciate our wines, will always find a way to get our wines. So, the growth for us has been rather slow and organic but it is also steady and quality growth. The pandemic and the lockdown did deal a blow to the business in a big way but all the hardships are worthwhile when I see the appreciation that wine lovers shower on us—for our wines and the entire experience that we offer at Vallonné. 

What’s your favourite tipple at the end of a busy day?

Vallonné wines—Riesling, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah. For me, nothing can beat the experience of sitting at our restaurant, watching the sun set behind the mountains and the birds fly over the vineyards while I sip on wine. Since we all love experimenting, our winemaker Sanket, our winemaker, often tries very limited quantities of different blends for me. 

What’s your advice to young professionals seeking knowledge in this discipline?

Wine is a a sunshine industry and India will surely be amongst the foremost producer of wines in the future. So, there is huge potential for young professionals in the field. But the world of wines cannot be compartmentalised into just wine making or your work as a sommelier or a marketing and sales executive. Get a holistic knowledge of the business and the product—right from viticulture and wine making, to being able to help your consumer taste and appreciate the wine, pair it with food.

There is immense potential for in the field of sales, wine promoters, and educators. It needs passion and dedication. Like I always emphasise, wine is just not a product but a living being which has to be treated and handled with a lot of care. It has its moods and its good days and not-so-great days so treat it like a living entity. Be proud of Indian wines and be the ambassadors of the Indian wine business.