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Sipping Piedmont’s Pride

Each year, in May, a handful of wine writers flock the rain-drenched streets of Alba in Piedmont. Their job is simple: to taste and review the new vintage releases of DOCG Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero, and their Riservas before their market release. The event, called ’Nebbiolo Prima’ , spreading over five consecutive mornings, showcases about 500 wines that are tasted blind in an organised fashion. The bottles are dressed in black sleeves, ensuring no favouritism towards any brand, commune, or cru, are expressed by professionals and sommeliers. This year, amongst others, we were examining the 2012 Barolo and 2010 Barolo Riservas. 

Barolos have always ranked high amongst my favourite wine styles. Nebbiolo, especially from this area, shows much character. A lot like Pinot Noir in Burgundy, it’s fussy and uncompromising, dictating its sites, altitude, exposure, climate, and clonal selection choice, each contributing in some manner to the overall and final difference. The wines are largely categorised amongst the five major communes of Barolo – La Morra, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Monforte d’Alba, and Serralunga d’Alba. The other six communes are equally important but the former five have developed a better understanding and following for themselves, much like a brand name. 

Good Barolos, and Riservas, unfold their true enigma only after a few years of cellaring, rewarding patience and highlighting the choicest of occasions. Thus, tasting them this young and commenting on their future is testing but not futile. The palate nearly stifles from the tannins and the acidity, their brutal assault apparent in every sip. It’s funny when we converse straight after the tastings and exchange views. Trying to bring life back to our palates, we sound like Rocky Balboa after a fight on sedatives. Yet we return each morning to the tasting tables to put ourselves through this misery. Why? Amidst all these punishing morning tastings, we still gather what we travel all the way for. It’s impressive, and educating, how the wines show their communes’ attributes, while respecting the display of the vintage’s features, amidst the luscious varietal aromas of rose, tar, sloe, and blackberry in every sniff.

So how was the vintage release this year? 2012 is already highly talked about, sitting in repute as high as any other classic vintage. Wines have an acidic nerve and are loaded with fruit. Freshness, a firm grip, and structure remained the key observation in most wines tasted. They’re already showing a good phenolic balance and a promise to age well. Especially after an inconsistent 2011 which was considered good only for Riservas, 2012 is relieving for many. Not to forget, we also had the 2010 Barolo Riservas. The vintage has been labelled as one of the most legendary harvests of all times. Someone must’ve worked really hard to make a bad Barolo this year, and even harder for a poor Riserva. The further aged, and masculine, rendition of Barolo, Riservas are smooth, structured, gentle, and unctuous in their offering already. Fruit is still pivotal, while tertiary notes are developing with only subtle assistance from the oak. They are worth betting on right now and will definitely be a delight a few decades later.

Here’s a regional guide to this year’s releases and how they fared as regional expressions:

LA MORRA

The blue-tinted Tortonian soil dominates here. It’s compact and fertile, resulting in less tense and open wines. They’re expressive, fragrant, and loaded with gracious aromatics, and considered the most feminine, quickest to mature, and early-drinking Barolos.

2012

Beautiful dusty ruby colour prevails. Pronounced perfume could be smelt from far and was very alluring. The palate busted with fresh ripe fruits. Even with a gripping and near dusty mouthful, acidity shined and made it an overall supple proposition. Most wines seemed ready and approachable. Michele Chiarlo’s Cerequio performed really well among the 56 La Morra Barolos tasted that morning.

BAROLO

Based on similar soil, wines here are bright and youthful, with plush fruit, and a tad extra warmth. Tannins are usually velvety and wines show considerable structure and concentration. The subregion is said to produce the most classic examples of the style.

2012

Wines were either too good or simply passable, which was surprising. The better ones had luscious fruit, lifted dark spices, subtle mix of old and new oak, and commendable integration. Soft tannins aided in mouthfeel and fluidity. Also, dense aftertaste left a tad rustic but smart appeal. Sarmassa from Marchesi di Barolo was quite impressive and stood out from the lot of 40 Barolos from the commune. Lingering candied fruits were well braided with aged-meat complexity.

CASTIGLIONE FALLETTO

Beige-hued loose and less fertile Helvetian soil featuring more sandstone takes over here. Castiglione Falletto wines can easily be differentiated from the others. They’re deeper in most attributes – colour, body, palate strength, bolder and more intense tannins – thus making them a good contender for long and slow cellaring. 

2012

It was the best-showing commune this year for most. Structured, powerful palate, fine grain tannins, rich bouquet, generous flavours, fuller and concentrated overall. Rich cranberries, cherry tang, fragrant meats (ham), charred oak, and earthy dustiness featured in most of the wines. 19 wines were featured from the region and they were all tied together with ripe acidity and a gripping and authoritative structure. Some wines have already developed shades of tertiary character without sacrificing the primary fruit. Ceretto’s Bricco Rocche was impressive.

MONFORTE D’ALBA

Limestone traces increase amongst the Helvetian dominated soil here. Its presence provides richness and power to the wine, making them amongst the most masculine and definitely the heaviest Barolos, requiring some extra years in the cellars than its counterparts. While limestone’s cool empowers the wines with refreshing acidity, it renders the tannins rough, providing a sincere depth on the palate.

2012

Tangy acidity, cleanliness of flavours, and roundness on the palate were key. Most examples were far from the usual dustiness of young Barolos and there seemed an extra  favouritism for  newer oak. Lively and rich fruit, liquorice tones, dried shrubs, fresh damp unearth soil, and cherry skin chew were common. Concentration of elements was compelling. The wines were gripping but lifted at the same time. Thanks to the tannins and acidity burst, these wines will last long and will show very well by their tenth birthday.

SERRALUNGA D’ALBA

Parked between Monforte d’Alba and Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga’s wines enjoy the best of both communes. They have long ageing potential, common in these Eastern communes, and are the firmest and most concentrated of the lot. Generally, the expression is big, bold, and, at times, rather potent. One of its communes, Francia, earned the wine style the coveted title of ‘wines of the kings’, speaking confidently about their personality.

2012 

It was my pick of the eleven communes this year. The wines were effortless and seriously impressive. Paler colour on the rims suggested the wines were ageing graciously. Palate was tight, dense, and heavy, with lesser intense fruit, and dominating spices. Pio Cesare’s Ornato alongside may other discerning producers performed well in the 55 wine flight from the commune. 

2010 RISERVAS

Year after year I’ve failed to acknowledge tasting Riservas as early as this. They’re very shy in their adolescence and refuse to express, at times leaving the entire gum-numbing exercise unproductive. Oak-marred wines don’t show regional character, let alone the cru. However, 2010 vintage being so elegant and near-perfect had a different story. Not only were the wines open, but each one of them held an impressive conversation when approached. Overall, wines’ structure was  pleasing, displaying fine balance between phenolics, fruit, oak, and development. La Morra’s Riserva’s were easy drinking and concentration was notable amongst Barolo’s produce. Castiglione Falletto’s wines completely lacked personality and were dirty and hollow. Monforte showed strength and grip, while Serralunga delivered fruity abundance and chewy palate. La Morra’s Paolo Scavino, Monforte’s Prunotto, and Serralunga’s Fontanafredda stood strong. 

Selecting from 170 single vineyards and 11 communes of Barolo DOCG can be testing even for an avid Barolo drinker. The spectrum of offerings is not confusing, it’s rather pleasing. Even after centuries of its existence and dominance Barolo continuously reinvents itself. And no varietal Italian wine astyle can match the diversity of its offerings. The tumult between traditionalists and modernists has continuously churned new shades of Nebbiolo promising there’s more to explore and exploit. There’s always an excitement to see what new would the crafty winemakers do to impress. While it’s a patience game to wait and watch, it’s not all that bad with a few sips of a patiently aged fine Barolo, 1996 please!! 

 

First published in Sommelier India Wine Magazine in August, 2016

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In Praise Of Brunello Di Montalcino

Italy holds many vinous gems in its arsenal, more reds than whites. Some that have ruled the palates of aristocrats and kings, marking their place firmly in the history of the country, and some that woke up to their true potential a tad later. Amongst the latter is a wine style that no commendable wine-list across the globe can be complete without – Brunello di Montalcino. Located not far from the Tuscan tourist city of Sienna, Montalcino has for long attracted the top palates and price tags for its muscular and age-worthy reds. However this glory is fairly recently albeit rapidly earned, especially when seen through the prism of Italy’s glorious winemaking history.

STORY SO FAR

The local holm oak trees, called Lecchi, owe the hill its name thus called Montalcino. The region has been repeatedly mentioned in the history for winemaking since the 12th Century but nothing noteworthy came forth till the 19th Century. It was in early 1800s that a group of farmers started experimenting and planting what was considered to be a superior clone of Sangiovese called ‘Brunello’ or ‘Brunellino’. The clone attracted some attention. Clemente Santi, one amongst the few interested farmers, grew especially inquisitive and investigated the clone further. He bottled his first varietal ‘Brunello’ wine in 1860, released by Ferruccio Bondi Santi in 1865. This can easily be claimed as the birth of what was to become amongst the most prominent varietal wine styles of the country. The wine soon sat amongst the top produces of the region, and then claimed its attention globally. However till the 1960s, the region was better known for its sweet and sparkling white wine called Moscadello. Brunello di Montalcino was conferred with DOC in 1966 and till 1970 Bondi Santi remained somewhat to sole player in the game. And then entered the American giant, Banfi, that had earned its reputation with the successful introduction of Lambrusco in the continent. Eyeing the Moscadello sparkling as its next success story, Banfi invested heavily in the area but were badly unsuccessful, thus turning all their plantings in to Brunello. It was not all rotten luck as Brunello di Montalcino became the first wine style to receive a DOCG seal in 1980. Thereafter it was a global phenomenon, with upto 70% of its production being relished abroad. Banfi does deserve a pat on their back for exploiting the well-established network of distribution from their Lambrusco success. 

IN THE VINEYARDS

Located South West and further inland from the hills of Chianti, Montalcino has a drier and warmer climate. This further makes it amongst the most arid of all Tuscan DOCG areas. Sangiovese, being the fussiest and notoriously moody at clonal, site, and soil selection seems to adore the area here. The bigger-berried clone, also called Sangiovese Grosso, has a reputation of providing somewhat a consistent yield in Montalcino, which in other parts of Tuscany is the hardest task for an agronomist. Where in Chianti sometimes the grapes are left lurking for more heat, here even the cooler pastures aren’t worried about its ripeness.

The hills are roughly divided between the north and the south. North, based on Galestro soil, is cooler and higher, rising upto 600 metres, providing lighter and elegant crop. The low-laying southern hills, based on clay, deliver more muscular yield and are often hauntingly aromatic, thanks to the cooling winds from the Orcia river. Thus, usually most wines are a mix of the two areas to exploit the best of both. 

To generalise the 2000 hectares of Brunello di Montalcino production territory will be inappropriate. It’s not as much to clonal selections, winemaking proficiency, oak integration, and aging regimen of the house as much as it’s to site selection, its elevation, aspect of the vineyards, and the parcels’ soils that the resultant wine would owe its personality. Since Montalcino was declared a UNESCO World Heritage city its viticultural area can no more be altered. This implies more owners of the same land. While this may result into more concentrated production and qualitative produce but at a higher price. The DOCG thus majorly includes small to mid-sized producers. Being a varietal wine style, there is always the lack of insurance of subsidiary varietals in case the vintage turns unsuccessful. Thus, these factors become further imperative to master to have a formidable and consistent produce that can justify its repute, identity, expression of the land, and the price-tag.

OAK TALKS

Much like the Piedmontese reds, there has been a split between producers in their oak regimen. In the 90s, there was a sudden inclination towards barriques. Wines turned oaky sweet and were marred with vanilla, somehow smothering the varietal and the terroir they wanted to showcase. Minus the fad of oaky, boisterous, and bold reds, barriques aided in faster maturation of wines which further implied quicker drinkability and sooner return on investment. However, much like many such fashions, this one wasn’t to stay for long. Producers here take pride in expressing that modernisation hasn’t come to stay at Montalcino. Most realised the dent it was bringing to the hard-earned image of Brunello di Montalcino wines and the dissatisfaction caused amongst its true admirers. Nearly all wineries have returned to the original/traditional style and using big bottis of five to six thousand litres. Though barriques aren’t completely discarded but they’re rarely the dominant influence anymore. Slavonian and French oak is readily used and vintage chestnut barrels frequently dot the cellars. Brunello di Montalcino DOCG recipe requires the wines to stay in oak for a minimum of two years and are released in the fifth leading from the harvest. For wines labelled as Riservas, another six months of oak raging is demanded and they occupy the shelves in their sixth year.Such long a wait further accentuates the price. To resort to this conundrum, a simpler DOC was introduced where the wines could be released after a year of harvest, with a kiss of oak-aging, and be labelled ‘Rosso di Montalcino’. These are fruity, fleshy, youthful, and vibrant rendition of the bigger, matured, and serious Brunello di Montalcino. It’s common to see these wines being rested in barriques that allow more grip and quicker aging to the liquid. It’s also noticeable that younger vines deliver yields for Rosso wines, while the more sturdy and older vines are reserved for Brunello and Riserva labels, yet again promising concentration and quality.

WINES TO TRY

With such variety and distinction in styles, generalising Brunello offerings will be unfair. Trying ample Brunellos and Riservas before making personal picks is sacrosanct. There were my definite favourites though. Bondi Santi’s 1997 Riserva was a testimony of the styles’ ageability, 2008 Casanova di Neri Cerretalto Brunello and Castello Banfi’s 2006 Poggio All’Oro Riserva proved the promise in tending the wine with patience. Le Ragnaie’s Fronace and Ragnaie V.V wines were a commendable window into the north-south divide, with my palate favouring the southern grip and structure. Il Poggione’s 2001 Brunello makes a noteworthy early-drinking drop and must be clutched to appreciate the youthfulness in its style. I’ve always appreciated Antinori’s Pian Delle Vigne Brunello for its maturity and drinkability at a favourable age, and especially for its ready availability in the Indian market. However, my pick from the region was the 2012 Brunello from the house of Sesta di Sopra, nestled in the southern reaches of Montalcino. Their single vineyards site, christened Sesta, was also rated by the Decanter Magazine amongst the 10 best crus in Italy. 

Montalcino may be a small tourist city buts its wines’ reputation is one that remains unchallengeable. Regarded as Tuscany’s response to Barolo, its maturity and depth is often spellbinding. Montalcino is not for the impatient, in-your-face, and practical palates. The style has stood the test of time and the wines display the regard for the same ever today. A perfect accompaniment to cigars and bodacious meats, especially game and cattle, Brunello di Montalcino is definitely worth an experience, and discerning occasion, especially once the bottle has celebrated its fifteenth birthday, has been left to breathe and awaken at its own sweet pace. With no place for any other varietal to intrude, or accompany in the bottle, Brunello di Montalcino is undoubtedly the best expression of Tuscan strength and potential. As long as Brunello di Montalcino will celebrate its own existence and tradition, our copas will be lifted in its embrace. Cin Cin!! 

First published in Sommelier India Wine Magazine in October, 2017

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#TippleTalk – COVID-19 pandemic: Future of Fine Dining

From chefs and sommeliers to mixologists and servers, a large part of the fine dining experience is the human element. Remove that and what is left behind is barely a reflection of its grander stately version.

A few months ago, as I was enjoying my course of pasta before the mains were scheduled to arrive, the maître-d’hôte came along and generously drizzled my plate with truffles and parmesan cheese. Today, if the same were to happen, I’d give a silent shudder if the person wasn’t wearing rubber gloves. And even then, I’d most likely ask them to simply leave it at the table and let me do the garnishing myself. So much has changed in so little a period of time. The pandemic, in that sense, has set us back and moved us forward a 100 years simultaneously!

Noma, four-time world’s best restaurant, reopened as a burger and wine bar

In Europe, restaurants have started opening. Gone are the days of cosy bars where elbows rubbed. The term ‘can’t touch him/her with a barge pole’ is the norm for setting up social spaces today. Places have gone all-out inventive in trying to find ways to keep people feeling safe and secluded without losing too many covers. Acrylic enclosures, sliding dividers, smaller table settings, all this is being done to create a sense of letting people be isolated in a crowded space.

The paradox of it all makes home delivery sound like a much more convenient option. Just order your food home, call up your friends on Zoom (or Hangouts or MS Meeting, or whichever app you are all commonly using) and enjoy it as the next best way to socialise without the worries. Home delivery has truly been picking up and even the big five-stars are giving in to the demand. I still don’t feel that they have their pricing pegged right, but maybe over time, it will work itself out. And with WhatsApp allowing eight people on a video call, I think socialising over the net isn’t all that hard to do.

So that’s food and friends sorted, but what about the drinks? Well, with the home delivery of alcohol commencing, it makes the idea of staying in sound ever more lucrative. You can finally do it all from the comfort of an armchair.

The definition of fine dining is changing with pandemic hitting hospitality industry globally.

But what about fine dining, an experience which isn’t just about the food, drink and company, but also about the ambience and service? How will that fare going ahead? Will they, too, start delivering course-wise meals to home? But how is that fine dining if I am sitting at my own dining table? Also, who is serving me here and guiding me through the wine list, or preparing my aperitif of a peated whisky sour? From chefs to sommeliers, mixologists and servers, a large part of the fine dining experience is the human element.

Remove that and what is left behind is barely a reflection of its grander stately version. Bare-bones fine dining is an oxymoron and it just doesn’t work when we try to understand it out of context. Maybe the finer places could send the team home to cook and serve me, but where does that leave social distancing? And would I be able to afford that experience, considering how the drying up revenue streams means that my spending capacity already stands diminished compared to even a few weeks ago? If others feel the same, will there remain enough takers for the service to keep it afloat?

Hospitality sector is facing huge loses amid COVID – 19

Just before we went into lockdown, the team at Indian Accent shared the news with me that once again they were the top-rated Indian restaurant (climbing to number 13) in Asia’s 50 Best list. Alas, I never got around to sharing forth that information and, now, all I can do is sit and reminisce my last meal there. I certainly hope they (and others like them) will find novel ways to see themselves through these times.

In times today, when few eateries can live beyond their first year, my heart goes out to all those who have managed to stick around for longer, but are now faced with this very real scare of having to permanently shut doors. I don’t have any solutions to suggest, but let’s wait and watch how things pivot. The coronavirus may become a permanent bane for all of us, but if there’s one thing history has taught us it’s that there is no species more resilient than the homo sapiens.

Written by Magandeep SINGH
First published in Financial Express.

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Conversations with Indulge – Cavalier Subhash Arora

I have been earlier a teetotaler, despite spending a year in Germany and over 5 years in the US where I did my MSc. and MBA and worked. Once I started drinking wine as an alcohol-based lifestyle drink in India I did a lot of self-study for over the following 10 years, visited vineyards, read books (no internet then) and wine magazines, visited wine shops on my annual trips to the US, attended two international wine and health conferences in Napa Valley, When I was convinced this should be the drink of choice for every alcohol drinker, I started a crusade to promote the wine culture passionately and selflessly.

I drink ONLY wine so basically I am a VINOTALER-a teetotaler who drinks only wine!

Being from an IT background how difficult it was for you to establish yourself in wine?

I did not see it as easy or difficult. I gave a talk about wine in our Rotary Club in 2001 after reading and studying and drinking on my own. After a short presentation I opened the house for any questions on wines (I had already initiated the wine drinking in the club for 15 years earlier). I was thrilled to answer all questions, basic as they were. This motivated me to start a wine club in 2002. To get together a group of like-minded people who would meet regularly and enjoy wines with food at reasonable cost. Delhi Wine Club was even featured in Aaj Tak on TV back then and it propelled the Club exponentially overnight.

What or who inspired you to enter the world of wines?

You could say the fan following I had developed at the Rotary. When I joined the Club, no wine was ever served at fellowship parties. When I left, we used to consume about 2 cases of wine during a social event. About 50 people including many women started drinking wine. They were keen to learn more and many thought it was a fashionable drink.

What was the worst drink you have had to endure?

Beer. I belong to a very conservative family where alcohol was considered a sin. But when I was living in Germany, my father was recommended I drink beer because water was hard. I went to a pub with a friend and ordered a small bottle of beer. As I took it near my mouth, the smell was nauseating and  I almost fell sick. Till date, I hate the thought of beer but did not start drinking wine for another 10 years.

Where do you see India in the next few years in terms of beverage journalism?

When I started writing about wines in 2002, I felt there should be 100 journalists. Unfortunately, the number did increase slowly and initially the writers were passionate but today, thanks to the internet as also the ‘copy and paste’ method and the advent of social media, many journalists have cropped up with not much knowledge of wines so the quality remains poor. However, there is a huge demand for good journalists, though there’s not much money in the vocation.

According to you what are the key factors that make a wine ‘good’?

First and foremost, is the drinkability. It must be a clean and brilliant wine. It should be matured for aging but too much wood is not the answer. It should be approachable with good balance and possibly structure, depending on the price. It does not have to be very expensive to be good. You always pay a lot for the brand.

What’s your most memorable dining experience?

The 200th wine event and 10 year celebrations of Delhi Wine Club with 270 people sit-down Lunch with 10 wines including Drappier Champagne at Hyatt Regency, attended by several Ambassadors and the Director General of OIV.

Can you share with us any story that marked a turning point in your perception of beverages in general?

I was obliged to choose an alcoholic drink by my partner in our international business. I tried a few options but one day I tried an off-dry German white wine and liked it. That was the defining moment and I never looked back. But since no one knew anything about wine then, I was constrained to learn on my own.

What’s your favourite tipple at the end of a busy day?

Usually a sparkling wine like a good quality Prosecco (preferably DOCG), Champagne or a crisp white wine.

What is your advice to young professionals seeking a career in this field? 

You must have a passion for wines and be ready to put in the hard work as also have the propensity to read a lot. Presumably, you should also love to taste as many wines as possible. I would also recommend a certified course.

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Conversations with Indulge – Abhas Saxena

Abhas has been in the world of wines since over a decade and has served in various aspects of the wine industry but hotels/restaurants remain the major one. He is a Certified Sommelier from the Court of Master Sommeliers (among the first ones to have done it while working in India) and, more importantly, was the winner of the 10th Indian Sommelier Championship. Abhas has worked as the Chef Sommelier for a large hotel chain in India and has a deep understanding of the trade in the country. In his free time he is also an air-guitarist, rock and roll enthusiast, comics and cartoons buff, a lockdown chef (for now) and, the most daunting role of all, being BFF to hia still-not-a-year old daughter. 

How did you enter the world of wines and what inspired you?

I got into wines while I was pursuing my graduation. I never intended to go through with Hotel Management while growing up but when I joined a hotel school, I was quite certain that hotels was not my calling. Coming from Gujarat, I found the subject quite amusing and thought to myself that it could be a good option. I enjoyed the occasional tipples back in college so I figured might as well follow a career path where in I could ‘enjoy’ the job. All things led to me networking with the industry front-runners at the time. Eventually I got a break with Wine Society of India and then with Indulge. While working the ropes, I figured that working with wines was just not something I enjoyed but was rather a passion project for me. I eventually joined hotels (against my initial thought of never working in hotels) and started working with the Taj group. That was where my love affair with wines got as serious as it could. The more opportunities I got to learn, the more I understood about the subject, not just being about a beverage but a way of life wherein you get to study cultures/history/geography and so much more. That’s just how I figured that this was the rabbit hole I want to check the depth of.

Apart from wines what is the one thing you really want to introduce Indian guests to?

Having done some reading about the history of alcohol in India, it is amusing to know the kind of beverages we have made all along. They somehow have never become as popular or been considered discerning enough. I believe our homegrown local beverages like Mahua, Feni, Kesar Kasturi and many more if not straight up then maybe mixed in cocktails would be a refreshing change for connoisseurs. 

How has winning the Indian Sommelier Championship changed your life?

#Indsommchamp has been a fabulous experience for me. I got the chance to visit South Africa ,a country I had on my bucket list for a long time. But more than winning the competition I think the entire process of the competition where you see the industry coming together to celebrate the work we do and to supporting passions that people live is very rewarding. 

Given a chance to serve your favourite actor/ musician a wine, who would that be and what wine would it be?

This is a tough one. I would wanna’ have a wine encounter with Will Smith. I wonder if he would enjoy some late harvest wines from India...

What is the best thing about luxury hotels in India that can inspire the world?

Luxury hotels in India are unlike in other parts of the world. Our hotels are fairly people driven and are known for warmth over opulence (and we are known for our opulence extensively). I believe that Indian hospitality is the perfect mix of what money can buy and what it can’t. 

What is the most unique food and wine pairing you have seen/experienced?

The most unique pairing in my opinion is to match comfort food from various regional cuisines of India with not just wine. Like a Vada Pav with a Gruner Veltiner or Rajma Chawal with Rauchbier or Mysore Masala Dosa with a Champagne Cocktail. We don’t have it in our culture to enjoy food and alco-bev as a gastronomic experience. To perhaps promote that would be unique. 

What’s your favourite tipple at the end of a busy day?

I usually prefer to go with a lager or a half decent Scotch depending on weather and the company.

What qualities do you want a perfect manager to have?

A perfect manager first of all needs to be a people’s person (Both, for the team and the guests alike). Over and above that, I believe strongly that today anyone calling themselves a food and beverage professional must understand that a ‘professional’ of any field is considered to be better than the layman. So for a food and beverage professionals, they must be better than anyone in their know-how of their field. With the world travelling so often and internet giving access to information so easily it becomes difficult to be on top of the game. I guess this is where the game changer lies in becoming a better food and beverage professional and standing out in a crowd.

Apart from mastering wines, what other skills must a sommelier possess?

Sommellerie today is not just about wine but being a toastmaster/bon vivant/a story teller/jack of all trades. Just like kids today are going through courses that will give them jobs that don’t exist today, sommeliers are interacting with people from professions that they wouldnt have known to exist otherwise. To be able to connect with people from all walks of life, to be able to converse with people about their liking without being a master of the subject is what sommeliers today need to do. The skills required by a sommelier today are not just limited to them being beverage geeks or having outstanding taste buds but for a restaurant to use a sommelier well, the sommelier should to be able to sell. It’s just a matter of what to whom. 

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Conversations With Indulge – Devati Basumallick

Devati started as a STEP associate with the Oberoi Group of Hotels and Resorts in 2012. Post which she completed the management training at the Oberoi Centre of Learning and Development, specialising in Food and Beverage, training across hotels in Gurgaon, Jaipur, Bombay and Delhi. Her first job was at the Oberoi Bengaluru as a Bar and Beverage Manager there she worked for a little over 2 years. Currently Devati is the Brand head at Krsma Estates Wines, based out of Bangalore. 

What is the one thing you love about Indian wines the most?

Actually, there are two things I love about Indian wines – one, variety. Compared to an established international winemaking country, the Indian wine selection may be limited, but it is a charming work in progress. There is something for everyone – be it a novice Indian wine drinker looking to explore his palate of choice, to the more serious Indian wine connoisseur. Indian winemakers are experimenting with different styles and dare I say, succeeding with them. From sparklings to stills in all colours of wine, from barrel ageing and fermenting techniques to late harvests and passerilage, the Indian wine palette is quite colourful and vibrant. 

Secondly, the exciting pairing possibilities that Indian wine provides, with Indian cuisine. Owing to the balance of fruit, tannins and structure in Indian wines, they seem to be quite a near-perfect match to the plethora of flavours that Indian cuisine has to offer. My favourite pair (not for the faint hearted, quite literally) is Bhapa Ilisher Paturi (steamed Hilsa) with a chilled glass (or bottle, won’t mind either) of Grover Zampa Vijay Amritraj Reserve Viognier!

Regardless of costs, what makes a good wine?

A Visionary. And a Winemaker. Or best – both, in one!

Yes, you do need great grapes to make great wines, and nature has to ultimately play the most important part here, but what translates this into fine wine is the art of winemaking itself. The ideology of the winemaker (or the founder of the winery) is something that will decide how the wine continues to evolve and remain a legacy favoured by many; much after the winemaker himself is gone. It is the winemaker’s vision for that wine, coupled with his way and skill of reflecting the truest expression of the grapes into your glass that will turn it into a fine, and an iconic wine. Hence, to consult an iconic winemaker for your winery, you definitely need to disregard the ‘cost’ factor!

How has winning the Indian Sommelier Championship changed your life?

In one word (or two) – 180 degrees.

I believe that my love for wines & spirits only grew from there, and then, there was no looking back. It was the tip of the iceberg, but overtly vast enough for one to realise the level of skill, knowledge and precision that is required for an Indian beverage professional to compete at an International level. Winning the championship opened many doors for me – right from confidence and skill to talk about wines & spirits, be opinionated rationally, pursue certifications in wine studies, to more importantly, creating a wine space back at work (then) at the Oberoi, Bangalore where I was hosting wine tastings for guests and beverage training programmes for the staff. Through the competition, I also had the opportunity to visit South Africa and tour the winelands of the Cape. It was an experience that will forever stay with me, rich in knowledge, culture, lots of good (read: great) food and amazing (read: exceptional) wine, and visuals of the picturesque wine country! For all of this and more – there is solely the ISC to credit, which is the only platform in the country currently that gives such great exposure to aspiring sommeliers.

If given an opportunity to serve your wines to your favourite celebrity, which wine would you serve and to whom?

This is a tough one, I’d probably want a table (of 4, or 6?) of all my favourite celebrities together and serve them each a bottle (or more…) of wine! However, I think I will bring it down to two – George Clooney and Hugh Grant. I would start by serving a bottle of 1961 Louis Roederer Cristal Brut followed by a 1960 Penfolds Grange Bin 95 Shiraz. My choice is based on the similarities between the wines and their respective personalities – vintage, iconic, expressive and most importantly, timeless. They seem to age like fine wine! The vintage years are also the respective years they were born. And oh! Did I mention that both (the wine and the two men here) seem to come in extremely attractive packaging?!

Is there a grape or wine you don’t like?

I haven’t tasted as many styles to rule out a single grape, but I generally wouldn’t prefer still or sparkling wines laced with excessive amounts of cloying, residual sugar.

How are you planning to glorify Indian wines on an international turf?

Two things that come to my mind instantly, first, from a brand perspective – exploring and promoting wine tourism. India is a hot spot for international tourists and this opportunity can be aligned with turning vineyard locations into exciting wine tourism experiences, coupled with showcasing Indian wines as a part of the entire event. At Krsma Estates, I am currently working towards exploring this possibility in the near future, however there are a few such established programmes already, like the Sula Fest.

Second, from a beverage professional’s perspective – to train the F&B staff, aspiring beverage professionals, make them taste and develop an interest towards home-grown produce, and help them drive the Indian wine culture in their respective restaurant programmes. They need to believe in it to sell it to Indian and International consumers alike– sounds like a small step towards a big change, but a darn important step it is then!

What’s your favourite tipple at the end of a busy day?

I guess I’m a mood-based drinker, considering the many moods we find ourselves in pretty much every day! If I’m in a happy mood, it’s going to be rounds of G&Ts! Else, a glass of comforting red wine to lift the spirits. And if despite a busy day I’m feeling extra creative, I may even fix myself a cocktail – anything refreshing with Gin or Vodka! Also there are legit no-mood days, like when you aren’t really in any mood, these days are for another staple favourite – Rum and Coke!

How important is it for a sommelier to visit a vineyard?

I can tell you this – It is extremely important for a sommelier to visit the source not once or twice, but at every given opportunity. You may learn as much as you want to from books, the internet and so on, but walking through a vineyard and tasting the wines, watching the grapes grow, understanding the soil and learning from growers, winemakers and proprietors is a game changer.

From my experience – I had read all about South African vineyards, drawn out maps to learn about the regions, but once I was there, driving through the vineyards and visiting every major wine house I had studied about – that is a richer learning experience that will forever stay with me, so

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Blog TippleTalk

#TippleTalk – Remauge

Imagine yourself in the 1600s. Shahjahan has just completed CONSTRUCTING the magnificent Taj Mahal. Doesn’t that call for a toast? What’s better to pop open than a bottle of bubbly. But, here’s a problem. It’ll be cloudy, rustic, murky, and full of sediments? How’d you make it look like the modern day bubbly then?

Would you appreciate if your glass of Champagne was murky, unclean, and had shard of yeasts floating in it? Probably thats what ticked off Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin, and she took upon self to clean all Champagnes there after. 

Painting depicting Dom Perignon practicing winemaking


Earliest evidences of (bottle-fermented) sparkling wines were found in Limoux, France. Made by Benedictine monks in Abbey of Saint-Hilaire, near Carcassonne in 1531. Whereas, Dom Perignon made the champagne in 1693. Within a few centuries, these techniques were passed on to Spain, Germany, and other countries. Locally they were called Cava and Sekt, respectively. However, the question remains how did bubbles reach the bottle in the first place? 

Earlier it was difficult for winemakers to remove yeast sediments from the bottle

Wines were ready in winters and bottled soon after. The yeast couldn’t stand the jittering cold and paused its workings. There was still some unfermented sugars in the bottle though. With the onset of summers, and the rising temperatures, yeast regained its workings, feasting on the sugars, and creating additional alcohol and bubbles. Voila! Upon opening these bottles, a surprise awaited. A gentle fizz was to be encountered. This was called the Ancestral Method of sparkling wines production, and that’s how Blanquette de Limoux is still produced.

A new change arrived in the Champagne region in 1801. Jean-Antoine Chaptal and Andre Francois mastered the science of secondary fermentation. But they couldn’t really figure the art of removing the dead yeast floating in the bottles. There comes in Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin aka Veuve Cliquot. In 1815, she created the process of clarify sparkling wines, called remuage. Prior to this, the task was unsophisticated, and wine were left cloudy and unclean. 

It takes Remuer more than ten years of experience to learn the art

Madam Cliquot shifted her dining table to the cellar and put holes in them. Bottles were placed upside down, letting the yeasts settle at the neck. They were occasionally twisted, or ‘riddled’, to move the yeast to the desired position. In approximately six weeks, the dead yeast could be removed. Riddling became a highly skilled craft and the professionals were called remuer or a riddler. They could efficiently operating over 40,000 bottles a day, with exceptional skills and patience that’s rare to find today. 

It was said that to become a qualified riddler, one would take at least ten years of intensive experience. Afterall, the task demanded delicate handling of every bottle, with necessary precision, and unhindered focus. Back then, each bottle was personally supervised. No doubt the practice was considered a style of meditation by the monks.

But then this art was expensive, time consuming, and riddlers became rare an further pricey. After all the price was to be paid by the consumers. And just in the nick of time, came in Gyropalette, an invention by two French vintners, that was first introduced at the house of Cava Codorniu in Spain. It could process over 500 bottles in one go, and duplicate the process of riddling spanning over 6 months, in 48 hours! 

Gyropalette can duplicate the riddling process with more than 500 bottles in one go

For a Champagne house, like Moet & Chandon, producing approximately 28 million bottles a year, a brigade of 700 professionals would be required to execute remauge. And that only when they’ll be working for six weeks straight! 

Being labour-intensive, cost-bearing, and space-hoarding a process, manual remuaging is no longer commercially practiced. Some houses still hold on to this age-old process, but they can be counted. Technology has made our wines cleaner, fresher, and at least better looking. On the other hand, made the hands of ancient craftsmen redundant.