Tag: Indian Cocktails

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Indian Gin

Undoubtedly, it’s the golden hour for innovations in Indian spirits. And amongst them, the blue-eyed child are the new Indian gins. With a thick Indian accent, unprecedented brio, nostalgia-suffused storytelling, and endless trials of flavours, they’ve stirred up a storm, one that the country and its tipplers hadn’t seen before. It’s so engraved now that if your Instagram profile doesn’t have a picture of an Indian gin, you’ll easily be called a social outcast. So, what’ve these homegrown gins done, in only a couple of years, that’s arrested everyone’s attention? We enquire.

British gins were the first to catalogue their botanicals on the bottle, tell their stories, and mesmerise the global population with the idea. Neither were their botanicals local, nor were they the epitomes of storytelling. Yet, consequently it became the norm. “For the longest time, western gins were taking our story, our botanicals, and reselling them to us. Now, after decades, there’s increasing curiosity in knowing about Indian botanicals and stories”, notes Anand Virmani, creator of Hapusa & Greater Than. And so should it be. After all, we were on the Spice Route for a reason. Karina Aggarwal of Terai further explains, “There’s been a global cultural shift. Everyone’s interested in knowing what they’re consuming, its source, how they’ve been cultivated, traded, etc. And with Indians travelling extensively now, their understanding of ingredients has grown drastically. There’s a sense of pride in supporting homegrown produce and how many you’ve tried”. 

EFFORT LESSLY INDIAN

Indian households, mythology, ceremonies, and rituals have for long revolved around botanicals, florals, and citruses. Be it the morning prayers around the Tulsi plant, or nimbu-mirchi hanging on trucks & lorries, or betel leaves, nutmeg, rice, sugar on puja thalis, scents and flavours have forever been the thread holding our daily lives. Put all these emotions & essences in a bottle, and it’ll be hauntingly intriguing. Accepting them will come naturally. In what’s traditionally been a dark spirit market, no one has consciously allowed such an expression that these new Indian Gins have. And it makes complete sense why we’d effortlessly get allured by them, and not position them as snobbish, but somewhat our companion. Forget not, ease and convenience is what’s driving the world now anyway.

EASY ACCEPTABILITY

Anand recalls from his earlier stint, at Hendricks gin’s launch, people enquired what whiskies were being poured at the bar. Now, a decade on, people enquire about the gins on offer. Aman Thadani, creator of Pumori, calles dark spirits a tricky proposition. “Whiskies & rums have their histories, templates, ageing, cask finishes, terminologies, etc. All this makes them pretty technical. Gin on the other hand is a free and simpler playing field”. Aditya Aggarwal, founder of Samsara, adds “Gins are easier to talk about. They create a nostalgic recall, and forego the technical gyaan one has to invest in before picking a dram”. Vidur Gupta, co-founder of Stranger & Sons, echoes the thought. “Unlike years of encyclopaedic information crunching in wine studies, gins are easy. And their mixability & versatility makes it further playful.” Karina adds, “it’s also the image of dark spirits in India, a quirky whisky bottle can also be questionable, let alone how to drink it, or the glass of your choice. With gins, there are no such moulds.”

PLAY OF BOTANICALS + IDEAS

However, the spice box of the world has so much to offer, it could be easy to overdo. Even the thought of constructing a gin in India can be daunting. Greater Than was the first craft gin in the country in 2017. Anand recalls, “we had a clean slate and could do whatever. It was equally exciting and confusing. We started with 120-130 single ingredients, then started putting them together, and the final recipe had only 10-12 ingredients”. Vidur says “we have a problem of plenty in India. There’s an endless list of botanicals we know of and even bigger one of those we don’t”. However, “No single ingredient is going to trigger someone into liking a gin. It does become a differentiating factor though, one that enriches their experience”, Anand adds. 

In such a vast expanse of ingredients, then how does one construct a gin? “Your gin distills down from your concept. We wanted to make a gin that’s bold, stands out in the crowd, is inherently Indian, and resonates with London as much as it does with Delhi. And to achieve that, our homework was to taste over 300 gins!!”, Vidur reminisces. Karina opines “though it’s a combination of various things, foremost are your personal preferences and knowing the palate of your audience. What reigns eventually is that it must be a product of provenance”. And the expression expands beyond just what’s inside the bottle. Aman puts it aptly, “put gin in a bottle versus a story, and you’ll see the difference. Before one picks a bottle, if you could tell them its inspiration and journey, the experience will grow manifolds”. Karina adds “from the label design to the bottle style, the gin needs to stand out, and have its own personality & identity. Consumers are also asking their tipples to be different, and it’s imperative that new gins do that.”

GINCREDIBLE INDIA

From these plethora of emerging ideas, one that shines is that of celebrating India. Our creators are proudly coining and nearly-boasting inscriptions like ‘India Dry’, ‘India Spirited’, ‘Himalayan Dry’ on their labels. But what are these terms and what do they signify? Like London Dry Gin, is there one that defines Indian gins? It’s simply too early to say. There’s no one India, in its geographic spread, cultural diversity, culinary spreads, languages, and attractions, there’re mere interpretations. And thats the most exciting feature in these new gins. They’ve celebrated India for Indians, that too at a time when our politics and a pandemic have divided us like never before. There’s a dire need for something that binds us together and makes us fall in love with our India again, and Indian gins are playing their part. 

Creators have very carefully and distinctly picked various features of India and put them in their bottles, on their labels, and in their stories. Haupsa, sanskrit for juniper, celebrates foraging local juniper from the snow-clad Himalayan mountains. A whiff of its gin teleports you to a rustic land with moist wood, petrichor, forest-floor, and fills you with a sense of adventure. Terai descends to the fertile & plush lowlands and has an imposing Indian accent through its fennel, tulsi, citrus, and floral hues, kindling a comforting assurance of botanicals you instantly resonate with. Stranger & Sons celebrates the Indian ghats and its agricultural diversity by putting a complex mix of spices, citruses, and aromatic botanicals in the hue. It teases you before it arrests you like a cruel mistress and doesn’t let you go. Samsara picked its botanical and aromatics reminiscing the scents at an Indian ceremony and the gin exhibits that in its floral liveliness, captivating secret citruses, and a regal khus note. And for once think, what do Himalayas, plush lowlands, the ghats, and Indian ceremonies have in common – nothing. And what’s India without either of them – nothing. And thats the play that Indian gins have mastered – there’s a union even in their diversity.

EMPOWERING THE CONSUMER

Finally, at a time of home drinking culture, where conversations around a refined drink have become the norm, gins are providing a reason to celebrate. Aditya exclaims “there’s a lot to resonate for everyone from a single sniff and sip of a gin”. Karina agrees and adds, “there’s a level of familiarity Indian gins offer, be it in the botanicals, or in their names, or designs”. Gin & Tonics have become the new norm. Vidur isn’t surprised, “we are a hot & social country, drinking chilled tall drinks makes sense”. Anand is on the same page and says “we’re in a country where whiskies are our almost national drink, but why? Drinking ideas from the EU don’t make sense in India”. Aman opines “consumers have elevated their game and for them a gin’s not a gin, a tonic’s not a tonic anymore, it’s much more”. 

Karina takes it a step ahead and claims “you can’t do anything wrong with gins, add any cordial, flavours, syrups, tonics, sodas, garnishes, throw them in any glass and it’s acceptable. Do that to a single malt whisky and you’ll get stares from every corner of the room. Unlike with some other spirits, here the consumer decides how they appreciate it. And you might be the only one who has that concoction in that pincode, which is so empowering”. And even for a humble G&T, Aditya says “there’s such sincerity in the process – cutting the fruits, getting the ice, picking garnishes, apt glassware, which elevates the aesthetics of the drink and the drinking ritual.” Sounds pretty civilised, eh!! 

India was always celebrated for its precise craftsmanship, and botanical offerings. With over a dozen gins on the shelves already, and many getting dressed to be unveiled, all in a span of 4 years, the gin revolution has been announced. There’s such promise in the category that one can’t help but anticipate more exciting introductions. If you haven’t befriended and added Indian gins to your repertoire, do it promptly. This wave isn’t calming down. 

 

First published in Sommelier India The Wine Magazine

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Articles Conversations Personalities TippleTalk Trade Wines

Discovering Grappa’s Magic

They call it the ‘Italian firewater’ and regard it as their prized possession. Some call it the son of the waste of wine industry while others regard it as a coveted drink that defines the Italian spirit just right. Sharp, pungent, herbaceous, and highly alcoholic, ‘Grappa’ is not everyone’s cup of tea. The spirit has been around for the Italians from the turn of the fourteenth century and but never earned its due respect until a few years ago. But now the world has opened their bars for it and is becoming a connoisseurs’ delight.

Not only is its origin controversial, it’s interesting too.  One of the stories suggests that its first citations dated back to 1443 in the custom documents of Piedmont when it was called ‘Branda’ in the local Piedmontese dialect. Because it was not a brandy in true sense but a grape distillate some believe this story to be unreal. The other one states that Grappa was originally made in a town located in Nothern Italy’s Veneto region called Bassano del Grappa and that’s where it gets its name from. This sounds more credulous. But what is a given fact is that the Medieval Latin word ‘grappolus’ owes Grappa its true origin which means bunch of grapes.

So what is Grappa? Simply put, it’s a grape pomace distillate. Pomace , pronounced as ‘pomak’, is simply the moist skins and pips, or grape husk, left over from the pressings of grapes at the winery. In Italy pomace is called vinaccia, pronounced as ‘win-aa-chi-ya’, and the producers believe quicker the vinaccia comes to them the better it is. As the raw material is extremely sensitive prolonged delays can cause not only off-flavours but also lead to producing some harsh alcohol. A bottle of grappa requires 15 kilos of vinaccia for its production which comes from about 100 kilos of grapes. The stems are a complete no-no as they end up releasing methane, the deadly alcohol. Therefore, distillers believe in sourcing vinaccia only from the closest sources. For bigger facilities they store their vinaccia covered in impermeable covering topped up with sand to ensure on air is left behind. From here the vinaccia directly goes in for distillation making it unique in its own way as there is no other spirit made in which solid raw material is fed in to the distillation tanks. The tanks are specially made as they resemble a bain marie with a water bath running between the outer and the inner tanks. This prevents the skins from direct contact with the heat source and restricts sticking and burning of the skins.

Grappas were meant to be clear, i.e. unaged. With the growth of darker spirits like Cognacs, Whiskies, Rums, and the likes, in the international market the demand for aged grappas grew manifolds. As a result distillers started to mature their spirits in oaks for short periods, ideally one year or so. The oak not only provides it a darker hue but also rounds off the spirit by smoothening its sharp alcohol, acidity, and providing an extra element of flavor. Today distillers prefer to not only blend their Grappas but also age them in a variety of oaks ranging from American, French, Portugese, and Sherry casks, and also different toasts levels. 

There’s a constant debate amongst the producers about Grappa made from single varietal versus a mixed vinaccia. Black grapes are regarded to produce better distillates as they’re not only more aromatic but also produce lesser methanol than the whites. While blended vinaccia produces complex distillates, aged or unaged, connoisseurs believe that single varietal Grappas are better received by the drinkers. This wasn’t always the case though. It was Madame Giannolo Nonino in the early 1970s that started producing single varietal Grappas. To promote her unique produce she would offer her distillates for free to journalists, restaurateurs, and other clients. She would often come to these restaurants and host informal tastings of her products with the regular diners and showcase what different grape based distillates could do. Since then it became and international phenomenon and Grappa culture changed for good. 

During my recent trip to Italy we had a sojourn at the Francoli Distillery in Ghemme, Piedmont. Mr. Luigi Francoli, the founder of the facility was a known personality in area. His son Mr. Alessandro Francoli takes care of the distillery now and talks passionately about Grappa. They produce 22 different styles of Grappas and are amongst the biggest producers in the region. On asking him about how his family has seen Grappa progress all this while he says “the Grappa category as a whole is stagnant in the domestic market and only slightly growing internationally. For our company the Grappa sales are in the positive sign both in Italy and outside”. Not only in Piedmont, Prosecco giant Carpene Malvolti also produces Grappas from their Glera grape husks. Their Grappas are definitely different from those of Francoli’s as the grape is an aromatic one and showcases its potential even after everything is taken away from producing a sparkling gem. Another astonishing product comes from the house of Brancaia in Tuscany where Mr. Martin Kronenberg makes a vintage grappa every year from the vinaccia of their expensive top-end wine only from a mix of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The grappa is not distilled in Tuscany but in Piedmonte, as historically intended.

Grappa was considered to be a bi-product of the wine industry. It never earned its due respect amongst the drinking class. Vinaccia was a waste and grappa received a matching stand in the society. Grappas are best served chilled in small glasses straight as an after dinner drink as it aids digestion. Alternatively, Grappa mixed with espresso was also served as ‘Café Corretto’ either in early morning or post-dinner. The working class drank it in a single shot to bring fiery heat during the shivering winters in Northern Italy. It is only recently that it has gained acceptance by the society other than the working class. If you’ve never tried it you’re in for a treat. It is an acquired taste and must be dealt with patience. Once understood, Grappa is like Cognac or single malt whiskies. 

 

First published in Spiritz Magazine in February, 2012

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Articles Cocktails Conversations Events + Affairs Spirits TippleTalk Trade

Scotch Love

When Scota, the Egyptian wife of the Spanish Celtic King Milesius, invaded the island in 1699BC from Ireland, who’d have even in passing thought of the power this meagre colony would possess in the modern era. They used their advanced knowledge of chemistry to concoct beverages using native ingredients primarily to restore health and what started as a medicinal endeavour developed into producing a spirit called aqua vitae or aptly ‘the water of life’. Local farmers of these fertile lands took up distillation as a secondary occupation, converting their excess grain into whisky, seeking some extra income. The fortunes it yielded for these poor farmers were rather handsome and attractive, as also providing an alternative to their commoner local tipples and therein emerged an industry, and a drink, that have never looked back since then.

Surviving endless wars, dodging the bane of the Prohibition period and the heavy taxations that ensued, managing to usurp Cognac’s dominance in Europe and more recently, that of vodka in the US, Scottish whiskies have had a journey like no other spirit. They belong rightfully to a world of royalty, grandeur, and celebration even if they are somewhere a matter of snobbery for us Indians.

Swirling in a small-cupped stemware, a bright golden liquid with a regal sheen, gently settles in the bowl leaving lazily trails of descending tears, a burst of aromas kindle a silent excitement, providing a soul-stirring emotion – that’s the enigma of a Scotch.  Some say that a minute sniff of a dram can evoke a vivid image of the environs where the whisky originated. Whisky expert, Dave Broom, describes the landscape as a place where you can read the rocky poetry of the Earth’s birth. With an abundance of clean springwater making its way to the distilleries, healthy grains glistening in the gentle sunlight, and a familial passion seeped down generations of distillers – the stage is indeed set for this unctuous drink to be born.

In the early years (circa 15th century) , every house had a miniature pot-still distillation apparatus that produced the house’s supply of aqua vitae. While the men worked in the farms to produce the grains, it were the ladies of the house that produced the spirit and used it intelligently when someone took ill. As the knowledge of this art grew, farmers turned towards the profession of distillation indefinitely. The agricultural scene in the Highlands was much more developed than in the Lowlands and so was the overall quality of produce and lifestyle. With distillation being introduced, Highland focused on smaller batch production, and lavishly double-distilled their spirits, taking them to a higher alcoholic strength, as they yielded lesser but richer (read: pricier) returns. Lowland distillers took the easy route of rushing through the process, producing a foul and weak spirit in contrast. By the end of the 18th century, these two styles were well-established, and Highland was the preferred one. Lowland fell so far behind that today it only features three operational distilleries. Towards the western frontier was the jungle of distilleries that mushroomed so close to each other that they not only shared the dividing walls but the neighbours could actually smell each other’s spirits from their own cellars. This was the land on either sides of the River Spey, unimaginatively  called, Speyside! Just falling short of the mainland  on the eastern edge was the Island of Islay. It was banned from using coal to roast the grain for malting and the wood was mostly too moist to burn easily with a reassuring crackle. Thus, they were left with only one option: to utilise the natural resource of ‘peat’, which was compressed vegetation that had died over millions of years ago to become a semi-carbonised fuel. It burns freely releasing mammoth fumes, imparting to the grains, and consequently to the whiskies, their key character of smokiness and pungency.

To simplify the matters for the untraveled, particular regions make a particular style of whisky. Or so goes the common adage. And it is true to some extent, for a label can often help a buyer decipher just what kind of a whisky he is in for. Various stories can be narrated attempting to explain as to why the landscape is divided in to Highland, Lowland, Speyside, and the Island of Islay and further be used to generalise their respective whisky styles, and while there does exist a sort of a taste template for each region, exceptions do exist, and that’s what makes it exciting.  Approaching them from a distance, Highland scotch are marked for their sweet, fruity, and citric appeal, Lowlands are light and gentle, Speysides may be appreciated for their floral and fragrant character, and Islay malts are identified by their smoky masculinity.  However, the key to how a scotch may taste rests upon four pillars – water it uses (after all a whisky is more water than alcohol), raw material (generally malted barley, its grade, and blend), distillation finesse (speed, quality, and size), and finally, the art of blending. 

That last one, blending, is the key to every whisky, or rather every spirit  we leisurely swig. It is also the one thing mired in much controversy in the Scotch world for it launches a debate about which is better – blended or single malts –  and has kept the two schools’ tempers raging. In geekspeak, a single malt whisky is made from a single grain, in this case malted barley, while blended whisky uses a blend of grains and cereals as its base. While single malts are the crown jewel of the distiller’s art, a master blender takes pride in meticulously crafting the blended whisky every year and making it taste just the same as its first batch even after decade. In the passing of the tradition from one generation to the next, the art has remained unaltered, but some have graduated to become the epitome of their regions. In the Highland, sweetness of Dalwhinnie, tight fruity and slightly tart charm of Glenmorangie and Ardmore, and the heaviness of Dalmore have established themselves as style icons of their respective profiles . Speyside has a web of distilleries producing a range of styles to satisfy every whisky type of connoisseur. While Glenfiddich and Glenlivet bear the flag of the fragrant, floral, light-bodied, easy-sipping whiskies, Glenfarclas, Balvenie, Macallan, and Cragganmore fill the richer, fruitier style cabinet in the collection. One travels to Islay looking for what all other whiskies fail to deliver, the love-it-or-leave-it ‘liquid cigar’ alikeness. While Ardberg, Caol Ila, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig are the bad boys of the region, producing the mouth-coating fumé style, Jura, Bruichladdich, and Bunnahabhain are the alter-ego, unpeated styles of whiskies. Bowmore and Talisker aim to please both the sides and do a fair job of it. Returning to the mainland to the least populated whisky area, Lowland is the home of Glenkinchie and Auchentoshan, which are generally considered light and gentle.  

It’s often said in connoisseur circles, “A drink makes you travel without requiring you to leave your armchair.” Scotch, after wine of course, does a handsome job of keeping that spirit alive. It is a produce of nature, crafted with the art of the distiller, nurtured in the hands of a wise blender, all combined and softened with the patience of the breathing barrels, till finally it is bottled and makes it journey to you, reaching your discerning palate only so to take you back to where it all began. It’s an experience worth the pause it evokes. No matter where it comes from, you’ll be happy to go there. 

 

First published in Times of India Luxpresso in Feb, 2014

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Blog Videos

52 Drinks 52 Weeks – Baijiu

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mXq_wx1rqT0&t=21s

The most consumed spirit on the planet, Baijiu, is more than just a shooter or a local Chinese spirits. It is complex and has many shades. The bald sommeliers – Gagan SHARMA + Magandeep SINGH discuss its journey and production, and Rohan MATMARY fixes his take on the spirit with a Hongkong Martini.

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Blog Conversations

Conversations with Indulge – Khushnaz Raghina


I am a Malt Advocate, beverage trainer, consultant, whisky lover, story teller, cocktail enthusiast!!

Khushnaz boasts 9 years of work experience in the Hospitality Industry, including stints with the JW Marriott Pune, Trident Hotel Mumbai and Gurgaon and her fifth year as Diageo’s Reserve Brand Ambassador.

“I’ve had the pleasure to work with some of the finest personalities in the Food & Beverage Industry in India and overseas and competed in various Bartending Competitions over the years.”

When not talking all things eau de vie, you will probably find her wandering streets and local markets in search of unique flavours, ingredients or even shaking a leg (and a shaker) at the nearest watering hole.

Who and what inspired you to take upon this journey of mixology?

Like most, I entered this profession with the fascination to flair. I was studying hotel management and trying to figure out what to do next. Hotel management was plan B and plan A was to pursue psychology. Hospitality came very naturally to me, one thing I enjoyed growing up was being a good host and serving people. I realised that adding a flair to what you do could change the way people perceive service.

I learned a couple of moves from my seniors in college and on the last day of industrial training I was allowed to play in the bar! Post my shift I was offered a job in JW Marriott hotel. I was thrilled and there was no looking back.

What’s been the highest point in your career so far? Maybe share a low point too and how did you get past it? 

Every new opportunity that threw me off my comfort zone was the highest point in my career. I learnt how to face them, embrace them and master them. I love challenging myself. I see every low point as an opportunity. If you are passionate enough to pursue your goals you’ll find the way.

What’s that one serious cocktail no-no that makes you cringe? And one cocktail no-no that you allow yourself to indulge in now and then?

Big no-no is using any technique or ingredient without proper or sufficient knowledge. Just because they are in trend or fashion, if you do not have any technical information, avoid using it.

I’m a strong believer that there is no wrong way to enjoy a drink of your choice. What is in your glass is no one else’s business. I occasionally like to indulge in a ‘Smoky Cokey‘. Lagavulin 16, topped up with Coke with lots of ice and aromatic bitters with a little twist of citrus. It was something I frowned upon until I tasted it. It tastes like a monsoon barbecue party which many think is a crazy idea but it is pleasant, breezy and fun!

We know of your love for Pineapples. What’s your favourite mix with it that we can concoct at home tonight?

The pineapple is a vibe! With such a rich history and being considered the universal sign of hospitality. It is so versatile that I don’t think there’s a single ingredient or a category of spirit that does not pair well with it.

I’ll recommend a Pineapple Highball with Johnnie Walker Black Label, a sweet spiced homemade pineapple cordial, topped up with carbonated water and fresh mint. Simple yet delightful!

What’s your favourite tipple at the end of a busy day?  

Conversations with close family and friends with tall delicious Highballs. Like Tanqueray and Tonic or a Ketel One Mule with seasonal flavours would be my pick! However, at a bar, maybe the bartender’s special with few inside jokes can work.

What is your advice to young professionals seeking a career in this field

‘You have the power to make a difference one drink at a time’

Have the passion and invest in your knowledge, be respectful to everyone. Be able to take constructive criticism. Competitions are also the best way to learn , so be inquisitive. Ask questions and don’t be blind followers. Be proud of what you do and have fun!

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Blog Conversations

Conversations with Indulge – Varun Sharma

Varun Sharma is the Beverage Manager at Comorin. He is responsible for
overseeing Comorin‘s unique beverage program that includes craft
cocktails, house made liquors and infusions, as well as a distinctive range
of coffee, tea, and soft beverages. Varun has over 12 years of experience in
the beverage industry, with highlights including his role as Head Bartender
and Mixologist at Ricks, the Taj Mahal Hotel, New Delhi; as Bar Manager
overseeing Delhi and Mumbai locations of Soda Bottle Openerwala; and as
Bar Manager at Chidiya Ghar Bar, Roseate House Hotel, Delhi. He has won
numerous awards including regional wins at the Diageo World Class (in
both 2014 and 2013, where he was also named among the top 6 bartenders in the India both years) and at the National Award for Best Mixologist at the Corralejo Teqnic Mixology Challenge, 2014.

You’ve made sous-vide a sexy thing to adopt at your bar. What’s the inspiration behind that?

Sous Vide method means under- vacuum, a method which was being used in the kitchen for preserving food. Few years back I observed more and more chefs were using this technique which made me curious to experiment with it for my cocktails. So, when I was working on the Comorin menu two years back I was excited to create cocktails using this technique. Taking inspiration from it we have cocktail mixers as well such as infused gin, vodka, whisky and other liqueurs at Comorin.

You make your own syrups, vermouths, and bitters. How do you suggest more bars indulge in this practice?

The practice of making your own mixers and syrups is not a very difficult but just an art where you need learn the ratios between a spirit, a sweetener, spices, fruits and herbs and understand your ingredients and there combinations. Everyone with the knowledge and passion can create it.

Your mixology style is unique. How would you describe it?

Mixology is an art of preparing drinks and creating a wholesome experience. My mantra is simple as I believe I should have fun with my ingredients and combinations. Each drink that I serve to my guests should let them have an outstanding experience.

Given a chance to start a bar of your own, what theme would you adopt?

Not looking at it for now for sure but if ever then it will be an Old Classic Bar with modern techniques & equipments and wide usage of global and traditional ingredients.

What’s that one cocktail that you’d make for your favourite comic character?

Gin and tonic for Genie from Aladdin

What’s your favourite tipple at the end of a busy day?

Nothing can beat traditional Bourbon with Cola

What is your advice to young professionals seeking a career in this field? 

Honestly, Bartending is a fun field and it’s essential for you to be passionate and enthusiastic about it. As, this profession is all about ensuring your guests had an out of the world experience because anyone can learn the recipes and proportions and create drink but what makes you stand out from the lot is how you made the whole experience enjoyable for your diners.

I would say be passionate, focused and enthusiastic about your field because it reflect in your work.

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Blog Videos

#52Drinks52Weeks – Martini

Welcome to 52d2w. World Gin Day has gone by and Martini Day is next, so it’s only fair we talk about Martini…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEYLqJE_aHA

Lore has it that during the Gold Rush in a town called Martinez in California, a gold miner who had just made his fortunes, wanted champagne. The bartender, not having any at hand, instead offered to fix him something with what he had: Gin, Vermouth, Bitters, Maraschino liqueur, and a slice of lemon. Thus, “The Martinez Special” was born. Once the miner moved to San Francisco and wanted the same drink, he had to instruct the bartender and soon enough, the recipe proliferated. But another theory states that the drink was a pick-me-up made in San Francisco upon the request of a miner on his way to Martinez, and many other travellers frequently asked for it.

So Martinez, then Mahattan, and finally Martini, that’s the path taken but in the period between 1882 and 1910, it spawned off many other versions – Marguerite, Martine, Martina…and so on.
The first mention of a Mixed Martini, Dry can be attributed to John Applegreen’s eponymous book in 1904 but but a Dry Martini was only mentioned two years later in a compendium by Louis Muckensturm, who was a Boston-based European bartender. The 20th century saw the rise of vodka and since gin is close enough (flavoured vodka for many), hence the creation of a vodka martini was inevitable. In 1905, a bartender had already whipped it up for a visiting Russian delegation at the St Charles hotel in New Orleans. And one of the most famous post-Prohibition joints of American in 1938 was the Russian Tea Room and once they launched an all vodka cocktail menu, things started to take off.It wasn’t till Bond made it a cult classic of its own, especially the way he had it – shaken, not stirred. But the drink itself existed before Ian Flemming’s protagonist ordered it, in Ted Saucier’s 1951 book, Bottoms Up!

A “dry” martini contains less vermouth, while a “dirty” one includes dashes of olive brine. When vodka replaces the gin, it’s known as a “kangaroo,” and a “Gibson” swaps the olive for a cocktail onion.Many great things have been written about the Martini and two come to mind: writer H.L. Mencken referred to it as “the only American invention as perfect as the sonnet.” And Ernest Hemingway in A Farewell to Arms wrote, “I’ve never tasted anything so cool and clean…They make me feel civilized.”

Lucky for us, India’s first lady of Gin, aka Gigglewater aka Karina Aggarwal fixed us perfect Martini. Here are 3 most important things to help us enjoy a martini:

  1. Know your kind. dry, sweet, or dirty,  olive or twist, try them and see which one sticks. It’s a high alcohol drink so it’s important to fin your preferred balance.
  2. The dilution is really important which is why the stir is not so simple. This is not masala chai, so the stir has to be smooth yet consistent, to mix and lower the temperature without diluting the drink with water.
  3. Temperature: Being a high alcohol content mix, it has to be served just right. Get the Temperature wrong and it can be like pouring hot lava! Which is why it is best ordered at the bar right across from the bartender!
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Blog Videos

#52Drinks52Weeks – Roohafza

If there’s one drink that has been keeping us, our parents, their parents, their parents, and even the British nostalgic, it has to be Roohafza.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sH8Hmp_3XEI

Be it drinking it at at your grandparent’s place, with chilled water and a squeeze of lemon, or serving it at Gurupurab, it has been a family and social drink.

HUMBLE ORIGINS

Roohafza started in 1906 to beat the monstrous heat of Delhi by a practitioner of Unani and herbal medicine, Hakim Abdul Majeed.

Unani system derives its philosophy from the Greek physician Hippocrates, who believed in the healing power of nature and advocated that medicines be safe and gentle

It was first sold by Hakeem Majeed’s Dawakhaana called Hamdard, in Lal Kuan Bazaar of Old Delhi. Hamdard means the ‘sympathiser in pain.‘ Roohafza, however, is a Persian word meaning – ‘Soothing to the Soul’

And the Bangladeshi website of Roohafza says it was the name of a character adopted from the book of Masnavi Gulzar-e-Naseem written by Pandit Daya Shankar Naseem Lakhnavi. And who was the character? It was the name of the daughter of heaven, also called Jannat ki Beti

BRINGING TO THE MARKET

It was released in 1907 with a fancy label, designed by Mirza Noor Ahmad, that still remains unchanged. It was too complicate to be printed locally and was sent to was printed by the Bolton Press of the Parsees of Bombay. And, the earlier Roohafza bottles were heavier and taller with a long stem, made of glass, closed with wooden cork, like a wine bottle. The today plastic bottle avatar came rather recently in 2012.

And there are records that by 1912 many princely rulers made it a part of their daily diets. It became especially famous amongst the Muslim communities as it could be drunk during Ramadan or Ramzaan, at the only meal of the day, at the end of their Rozas, called Iftaar, not just because its refreshing but also because its natural. 

At iftaars, the entire family eats together and mothers and grandmothers pour it huge from jugs. It’s the perfect family drink. And this is what can be seen in movies today, remember that scene from Ye Jawaani Hai Deewani with Ranbir Kapoor’s mother pouring him a glass?

ROOHAFZA, PARTITION, AND THE FAMILY

Hakim Majeed passed away in 1922 leaving the reigns in the hands of his 14-year-old son Abdul Hameed who successfully expanded the brand and the business. But like many homes in India, Partition broke the family and Mohd. Said, the second son moved to Pakistan. At that time they had setups in Pakistan, India, Bangladesh too. So, it can be said that Roohafza has witnessed the bloody birth of three new countries. Of which, Arundhati Roy mentions the same in her book, The Ministry of Utmost Happiness.

SHERBET RECIPE + ROOHAFZA INNVOATIONS

Typically, a sherbet has either a base of Fruit, Flower, or Roots – Roohafza has all three. It contains natural ingredients like khus (poppy seeds), lilies, keora, roses, sandal, juices like pineapple and orange, and much more. And minus the two nostalgic ways of drinking, there’s much more that can be done.

Hamdard has tried some innovations of their own as well. Be it launching its ready-to-serve format like RoohAfza Fusion, or having RoohAfza inspired drinks at Barista coffeeshops, or even developing RoohAfza flavoured milk. But, one of the most talked about play was its carbonated drink sold in cans, in Pakistan, as RoohAfza Go. Some didn’t agree with it, some did, but, who are we to say

ROOHAFZA DOMINATES

In Indian, Roohafza still dominates 50% of the powdered soft drinks and liquid concentrates. Saveur Magazine, considered by many to be the last word on authentic cuisines, ranked RoohAfza No. 1 in the drinks category from around the world in 2007.

SHERBETS IN INDIA

But, do remember, sherbet, sharbat, sarbath…whatever you call it, has had a longer standing history in India than Rooh Afza. The word comes from the Arabic term shariba, meaning “to drink”, and arrived in India with the Mughal Emperor Babur in the 16th century.

Well, Sherbets may have come with them but their earlier rendition has been mentioned in the Travels of Ibn Battuta in Asia and Africa, where he describes a royal meal he had with the 14th century Sultan Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq at Tughlaqabad in Delhi. He mentions sherbet of rose water that was served before meals, which ended with paan.

Roohafza has been a classic dressing in Faloodas and Rabris, which also was brought in by the Mughals from Persia, and Humayun was especially a fan of.

Interestingly, his son, Akbar was a vegetarian three times a week. He cultivated his own kitchen garden and carefully nourished them with rosewater, so that the vegetables would smell fragrant on being cooked!

Well, definitely sherbets have come a long way. In the new age, people are getting kicks from international drinks. In such times, we would like to see more Indian drinks returning to bars and restaurants after the lockdown lifts. we’d happily opt for a Roohafza over any carbonated drink even at a hotel or a restaurant. And why stop at that. Why not use it mixology, or baking, or desserts. I say let’s do that. In times of Atmanirbhar Bharat and Vocal for Local, and let it not just be a drink from our childhood, and drink up our heritage and be proud of it. 

And to that, Cheers!!

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Blog Videos

#52Drinks52Weeks – World Cocktail Day

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLXPdSlCzpk

20 industry luminaries come together to celebrate the drink that keeps us afloat – Cocktails! Team IWBS raises its glasses and pays tribute to those behind the stick, who make the world more animated (and sane) with their fantastic mixes. A day where every hour is a happy hour. Cheers!!

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Blog TippleTalk

#TippleTalk – Distinct Spirits For Distinct Cultures

DO YOU know that saying, “Tell me what you eat and I will tell you who you are?” It was proudly uttered by Frenchman Brillat Savarin, the famous gastronome. He was responsible for leaving behind a treasure trove of information concerning gastronomy. So timeless was his counsel that time has not changed its relevance in any manner. Travel through the length and breadth of our country and what one notices is that it’s not just clothes and language habits that change, it’s everything—from the way we think to the way we consume and even what we consume. So much so that simply by looking at these factors for a long enough time, one can start seeing a pattern, a symmetry in our actions and inactions that runs common through all aspects of our lives. In other words, if I were to dare provide a corollary to the famous quote above, it would be this, “Tell me how you live and I’ll tell you what you eat.”

Travel through the length and breadth of our country and what one notices is that it’s not just clothes and language habits that change, it’s everything

Recently, during one of those gentle alcohol-laced discussions with a jewellery designer friend (Gaurav), something interesting turned up. This was one of those chats that happen so late in the night that every other worldly worry has been brought up and exhausted. Essentially, once the complaining and bickering of the quotidian grind has died down, the talk finally moves on to quaint observations, the ones which still appeal to our innate child-like curiosity. Gaurav shared how, in his business travels across the country, the way people buy jewellery gives an insight into their thinking, how they perceive life, etc.

The northern part of the country, for example, likes big pieces: long earrings, over-emphasised neckpieces, big bangles. They like to make it a point that their accessories don’t hide behind the rest of them. They want to be on display. The south, by contrast, prefers smaller sizes. They may spend the same amount in value as someone from the north, but they would channel that towards, say, a better-quality diamond or a more delicate design. For them, it’s more about the detail than the outwardly semblance of size and opulence. Frankly, this shouldn’t be news to most of us: the jokes fly thick and heavy about the dwellers of our subcontinent at its two extremities and just how different they are. But then, we see the same pattern in our cuisines. While northern ones tend to show a certain penchant for the rich and the lush, the south sticks to a path more austere and less ostentatious. Even in the drinks we imbibe, this philosophy appears to define the order. The north likes cocktails with more cream, vanilla and fruity notes. The south prefers less sweetness and has a certain predilection for spiced drinks. The north likes to play with vodka, dressing it up in all sorts of juices, flavours and garnishes. The south prefers darker spirits and, most commonly, they are drunk with only water added. The lavish-austere contrast remains obvious across the board. Of course, there are anomalies, but the general pattern is distinctly obvious: the ostentatious works better in the north.

Frankly, this didn’t come as news to me as, I am sure, to you as well. But in our defence, Gaurav and I had been sipping on some poignant spirits and it was extremely late in the night. So to draw parallels between jewellery shopping and cocktail imbibing seemed a highly intellectual task—linking two rather unrelated fields with a common denominator.

The moral of the day is nothing really—keep calm and enjoy your Sunday. Maybe to remember that different upbringings make for different tactile profiles, so to disregard any is a sign of ignorance and disrespect. Drink what you like, but also always try what you don’t know yet. And do it all in moderation for, as monsieur Savarin rather aptly summed up in a lesser-known quote: “If you get indigestion and inebriation then my friend you don’t know how to eat or drink.”

The writer is a sommelier

Originally appeared in Financial Express