Author: Harsh Saxena

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A Living Barolo

A grape so rich in repute that in 1431 the local law had forbidden uprooting or cutting off its vines and the recidivists were as severely punished as to even chop off their right hands or hung to death.

The much-celebrated hero of Piedmont, Nebbiolo, is a small-berried red grape with thick skin and light colour. This sturdy varietal requires long sun-hours and has a tendency to ripen late. That’s where it gets its name from as it’s harvested during the winter fog, locally called ‘nebbia’. This elongated ripening period allows complex flavours to develop. It’s free-spirited and a hard one to tame character has drawn limelight to its popularity furthermore.

Once called the king of wines and wines for the kings, Barolo is the boldest and masculine avatar of Nebbiolo. The wines are aged for a minimum of three years before they are set to release with the highest quality wine designation of DOCG. In their true sense, Barolos are never too dark in appearance and carry a strong backbone of acidity and sharp tannins that assist it decades-long aging. Play of oak distinguishes one from the other and can really lift the wine from a bold heavy style to a round subtle one. They’re not for the young and restless as they’re best consumed only after half a decade and better ones can age for more than 30 years and still be youthful. 

Every producer shares a distinguished philosophy about the grape and its winemaking.  One such estate is Azienda Vinicola Palladino. Set in the center of Serralunga d’Alba, one of the villages of Barolo, the winery dates back to 1974. Amongst others, they produce Barolo from their San Bernardo vineyards which are much like their ‘Grand Cru’ selection! In a vertical tasting of their various vintages, the 1982 stood out.

It showed signs of aging from the start but still had flexes of its youth. Intense sweet aromas to begin with hinting towards foie gras, aged balsamic vinegar, and truffle oil, not usually recorded in a wine, thus rating it high on the gastronomic scale. Bayleaf, roasted cumin, burnt charcoal, toasted nuts, and porcini mushroom followed, creating a delightful concoction of aromas. It took its time to open with plentiful swirls and sniffs and finally came with a big burst of flavours on the palate.Although austere and complex, the old-school velvety tannin structure along with serious notes of coffee, aged meat, sweet tobacco, and olive dust makes it a wine worth surrendering to. Already 31, yet no signs of giving up. A juicy roasted rack of lamb with truffle-scented grilled potatoes and garden vegetables sitting next to it would’ve made it a match worth the travel.

Barolos are at times considered too serious to be approached. They are rather a simpler choice when treated well. They are much like teenage kids but with time and little air they mature to be a fine company. Coming from the land of gastronomic history, it’s a wine-style made for discerning palates and great occasions. But with wine that good, every dinner can be an occasion. Cin!

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The Italian Job

As the wheels hit the ground and shook us awake, we looked out of our tiny window flaps to catch a glimpse of a small runway with sprawling greens over rolling snow-capped hills, above which the clouds floated like the sentry.  We had arrived in Turin, the capital of Piedmont, but our stay was short-lived as we were headed to Alba, the wine, truffle, gastronomy, and cultural capital of the region.

As we boarded our bus and headed towards the Autostrade (highways), the sights became further captivating. The bright green turfs, creeks flowing in between, cattle grazing lazily, and countryside houses dotted the horizon through the ride. As we turned from one highway onto another the soothing visuals were not only alluring but also playfully enchanting. And so it went, gently swayed by the motion of our transport but more so moved by the scenery we were passing through, we were approaching our destination where some welcoming wine bottles were sitting in an ice-bath waiting for us eagerly. 

Alba is known for being a touristic town: after all a town that has stood steadfast and witnessed the rise and fall of the Roman Empire, a change of hands between the French and the Spaniards and the two World Wars surely has tales to tell. Once called the ‘city of hundred towers’, some of the buildings in Turin date back to the 14th century. These towers have stood guard, sturdy and reliable since they were built, protecting the city during the numerous wars and keeping its people secure. Today this past weaves into the fabric of the present-day and the intermingled city lives on, old, sometimes even a bit battered, but ever alive. 

Walking into the city centre of Alba is an experience unto itself. Stony high-rising castle-like walls and slim alleys with the grace of over centuries still kept alive are signs of the culture that the city still celebrates and wishes to stay with. It is a harmonious blend of the old and the new. The centre in fact is a small square called Piazza Savona which houses many small cafes and gelaterias. During the summers, visitors crowd the place as flea markets animate the atmosphere. By noon the sidewalks are parked with people, sipping from round-shaped wine glasses filled with a garnet-hued glittering Campari aperitif, a local favourite, made from a herb-flavoured bitter and sparkling wine. The marketplace may otherwise fail to impress with its dining options but it does have a Michelin-starred restaurant in its heart at Piazza Risorgimento called Ristorante Piazza Duomo. The dishes here are a treat to the palate as well as to the eye. Chef Enrico Crippa is the homegrown hero in local gastronomy having been rewarded with two Michelin stars in 2012, a highly rated accolade in the culinary world, and the only one in the region. His virtuosity of capturing the best of local ingredients and transforming them, through his skills and knowledge, into an edible masterpiece has been appreciated by a swarm of critics and endorsed both by international media and the cognoscenti. What is interesting here is the production of classic dishes with delicate touches, all enhanced with cooking techniques and a complexity of flavours bound together in effortless harmony. Not only is it a sin to miss this while in Alba but is definitely worth a special journey even if not in the region. If you wish to be a little more adventurous, head out and make a drive to small hamlets in the region and try local restaurants there serving meals worth Michelin stars, or take a dive into a local trattoria to see the family kitchens. Cantina dei Cacciatori in Roero is an Italian dhaba serving home-style dishes made using only the freshest of seasonal local ingredients while Il Boscareto in Serralunga d’Alba  is a luxurious treat. Il Centro in Priocca D’Alba is a blend of the two, serving classic dishes prepared in a modern style. Which one captures your fancy is only to emerge once you have had a go at each.

Hazelnuts and Alba are synonyms much like Vatican City and the 16th Chapel. Their crunchy texture on the palate with the discerning release of sweet nutty flavours will make you close your eyes and think of the yards they’re sourced from. I must admit that I indulged rather extravagantly on this local snack while on this trip and my waistline holds proof to this date. The tradition of these nuts is so strong in the area that Italy today is the second largest producer in the world. At the edge of the city centre is the giant production facility and the birthplace for the most-known chocolate company in the region, Ferrero Rocher. The aromas of hazelnut and milk chocolate can be sensed from afar. It is almost a soul-call to visit the facility and see these delights being produced. Nutella spreads and Frangelico liqueur are other ways of enjoying this addictive nut but the best and the most accessible mode is hazelnut gelato. Coming back to the city centre, do make a halt at Zucherro Gelateria and try their gelatos. If not, it’s easy to spot a crepe station freshly whipping out some mouth-watering Nutella crepes.

Alba has been an agricultural state and owes most of its attraction to it. Wines, truffles, and asparagus are other local delicacies that have been the key contributors with wines leading by a huge margin. Wines in Alba, or for that matter in Italy, is not a beverage but a way of life. Alba is the hub for wine-drinking with areas of Asti, Barolo, Barbaresco, Dogliani, Ghemme, Gatinara, and Gavi surrounding the place. Winemakers here are always approachable and can share tales about their winemaking principles and experiences with a big smile and are always generous with an offer of a sip of their favourite vino. A stroll in the vineyards is relaxing after all the shopping and walking in the city, and standing amidst the vines, enjoying nature at its purest. And then, you give in, picking a grape and crushing the berry between your teeth to release that priceless juice from them which, in only half a decade, will turn into wines that can age for years and mark an evening as a memory of a lifetime, Such bonhomie can’t be captured by a mere cameras. 

Nebbiolo is the varietal that dominates most of the area and Barolos and Barbarescos are the two boastful wines that are produced from it. Barolos are the masculine avatar while Barbarescos are the more feminine version. These reds are a great pair, and they sit comfortably well on the dinner table besides a preparation of duck breasts, chunks of a well-aged and charred steak, or even something as simple as grilled chicken. Asti, neighbouring Alba, is the hermitage of a varietal that’s playful and light-hearted, called Moscato. It is simply impossible to not like this varietal in its semi-sweet, semi-sparkling, low alcoholic version, called Moscato d’Asti, which wittingly amongst locals is also called ‘the perfect breakfast wine’. It has the charisma of bringing out the adolescent in you, drawing at the sweet slurps with a wide smile. If not the reds or this sweet drop, then turn towards the only white wine that has the highest designation amongst wines (DOCG), from the town of Gavi, conveniently also called Gavi. If you get lucky to find seafood in the region don’t think twice to order a bottle of this crisp fruity sip and create some gastronomic magic.

Towards the end of October – early-November is the season that draws the connoisseurs and gastronomes to the region for a different reason from that of history, hazelnuts, or even wines. The city smells of a different aroma and the hills are this time surrounded not by viticulturists but sniffer dogs, hounds, and their owners. Amongst the most prized and luxurious of ingredients in a kitchen is an ingredient with dense aromas, musty appearance, and an unparalleled taste. Truffles, as they are called, belong to the family of fungi and are regarded as a rarity and thus call for the highest bids for their best versions. White truffles of Alba are like French caviar and the best of the breed for a season, are reserved for the elites – the chefs who come to buy from the world over. The land that rejects cultivating good vines homes great truffles, that’s the general belief and has lived from its birth. It is a sight to see masters chasing their super-sniffing dogs running in the yards and forests spotting the best of these delights. These dogs are trained to detect the truffles buried up to 10 feet underground, and they scratch at the mud to bring them out to and deliver them to their masters. And all that effort just to receive a treat as a reward. The master then polish off all the mud from the fungi and prepare them to be showcased in the regional markets to earn a price that is can be astronomically high for something that is edible and has a short shelf life. For an idea, Alba’s white truffles can go for as high as INR 9 lakhs per kilo and the smallest shred of it can lighten up a commercial kitchen with meaty aromas cherished by true connoisseurs and gastronomes around the globe. Not to mention, the delight of shaving it over a creamy risotto and letting it release its aromatic goodness on your palate is nothing short of heavenly, and in this matter no amount of hyperbole will ever surmount to over-emphasis! 

 

To sum it up, even as I read what I have written, I find that inasmuch as I have conveyed my documented details of a truly wonderful trip, words will never quite convey the magic that is this marvellous region. The safest way to assure yourself of a good time is get a ticket and fly there. The French use the word terroir, which roughly translates to sense of place. They apply it to wines but here in this case it applies to every possible product that the region has to offer. Alba, Piedmont and Italy would be lacking if it weren’t for a combination of all these. I, for one, am already planning my next sojourn.

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Nebbiolo Divides To Conquer

Some say it’s a macho and a heavy-to-handle variety while some seat it next to Pinot Noir in its appeal. It’s still a matter of gray where this grape, responsible for putting Piedmont on the wine world map, is poised. Nebbiolo has kept the tasters’ circles baffled and in arguments for decades now without arriving at any mature conclusions with regards to its definition of style, character, and true identity. It may have given forth the legendary red wine-styles of Barolo and Barbaresco but has also posed an equally challenging question – What is the true style of Nebbiolo? Perhaps the history of the region holds the key to that dilemma.

For centuries earlier and even now, British markets were the focal point of all wine trade. French, fast holding on to their repute, were the most demanded producers and were supplying Bordeaux and Burgundy reds to almost entire Europe. However, with the turn of the 18th century, British-French trade slumped with warfare on the horizon lasting for decades. Brits started seeking wines from other European countries and Portugal was their next bet now with Ports becoming a big thing. Spaniards joint hands with the French and thus that market was ruled out too as a buying market for the British palates. Till now, 1880s to early 1900s, Piedmont was unpopular and Nebbiolo less known. Finally the wars ended in the early 1900s and the trades opened and the curious connoisseurs from around the world made their journeys to the snow-kissed mountains of Gattinara, Langhe, and Alba in Piedmont and found the grape. Since then the following of this solo varietal of these majestic DOCGs of Barolo and Barbaresco has only grown.

There’s a reason why Nebbiolo and Piedmont are almost synonymous. It’s one of the few varieties that chose its homes than the other way round. The sun exposure of the Piedmontese hillocks grace Nebbiolo with long sun-hours and thus it always captures the warmest spots in the area.  It’s amongst the first to bud but the last to ripen. So much so that the other two grapes in the region, Barbera and Dolcetto, would finish fermenting and Nebbiolo would still be days away from complete maturity hanging on the vines. Like a stubborn teenager vexing her parents, the grape can really challenge the viticulturist in finding the right balance between sugar and phenolic ripeness. This is where the cool winds of the snowy mountains come to calm the heat waves and assure the vintage difference is minimal from year to year. Having said that, getting the climate wrong for its growth is still the single biggest reason why New World countries haven’t found the grape its second home on their turfs. 

With all this amazing past and complications that the grape is wrapped with comes the immaculate question dividing avid connoisseurs into two realms – Traditionalist or Modernist? This is where the grape’s natural approach ends and winemaker’s influences take over. There exist two philosophically different schools of Barolos, even Barbarescos for that matter. There was an era when this thought strongly existed and actually divided families who knew only how to turn grape to wine. Today it’s said, and observed too, that the modernists have taken over and traditionalists are fewer in number which once was the other way around. The difference in the two approaches has its roots in the past.

As Nebbiolo is a late ripening varietal, the harvest would end on the cusp of winters and vinification took place mostly in weather too cold making it a herculean task for the fermentation to initiate. So much so that the must would rest in the tanks for up to three weeks without the sight of first act by the yeast on sugar. Fermentation would drag on for over two to three months in old gigantic oak barrels allowing chances for bacterial infections. Such long processes also ensured that the natural fruit character of the grape was shadowed by oak, as the wines slowly soak in the woody characters too, and there developed heady aromas of musty hints, tar, smoke, mushrooms, and the likes. This prolonged skin contact also steeped rough tannins into the resultant wine and acidity turned a tad volatile, tasting like varnish!! Final impact of this weather-driven practice was a harsh, tannic, alcoholic red wine that now needed long ageing, breathing, and maturing before the tannins would mellow enough for drinking, which was often up to a decade, minimum! Eventually as technology spread its wings over the area, it brought along a new style: that of producing cleaner wines with natural fruity characters, absence of unfavourable musty aromas, lively restrained play of oak, and affability of refreshing supple tannins. This was well received as a breath of fresh air and attracted those who couldn’t come to a consensus with the traditionalist style. Large botti (1,000 to 150,000 litres) are being replaced by barriques (225 litres) at some houses however it is impossible to find a cellar in Piedmont without the former being steadily present. While some believe that traditionalists would hide the flaws created by lack of temperature control and less technological advancements in their wines by generous use of oak some also believe that the love for barriques by the modernists makes the more subtle aromas of Nebbiolo die under the sweet vanilla flavours (from fresher barriques) and creates rather tamed uni-dimensional wines as the aging is quick and more smaller barrels deliver more flavours of their own rapidly. Which theory is correct? That’s subjective and is still keeping the scene stirred.

During my recent visit to Piedmont, I swung from one end of this scale to the other as I hopped from one winery to the next. While the praiseworthy philosophies of some winemakers was almost enticing to taste in their wines some failed to create verbal magic but their wines spoke for themselves, and well. While you have houses like Bartolo Mascarello, Giacomo Conterno, and Luigi Baudana sticking to their grand Traditionalist discern, there are houses like Elio Altare that break these shackles and create simpler fruit-forward wines with limited complicated characters upon maturity. And then there are houses having the best of both worlds. Palladino, and Vajra, have now started creating wines that are more open and expressive than what they made two decades ago. Giuseppe, the head winemaker and new generation owner, at Vajra maintains that he is 51% farmer and only then 49% artist and his idea is to let the grapes speak while he only moulds them to what they wish to be. It’s the personal connection with his vineyards that he wishes to bring in the wines he makes and it shows that the grapes were nurtured well to yield such wines with structure, definition, and precision. What catches the thought at Palladino is the panorama they created in a private tasting of over 30 years – from their 1979 vintage to 2008. The vintages older than 1991 were made by the previous generation which shows in their wines as they carry flexes of the Traditionalist style and that is probably the reason why they were still astute and held their pride. Post ’91 the new winemaker has tried to capture that style and maintain it but has also drifted towards partial Modernist approach. Montaribaldi and Nada Giuseppe are two houses focusing towards their Barbarescos and have a similar philosophy with the wine-style. Montaribaldi reserves their love for what transpires in the vineyards and passionately follow how the wines have aged and still are. Although the wines are not heavily lined with oak and are far from being crusted with musty and dense tar characters they do have the older thought influences that touch and go. Nada Giuseppe being a mid–sized winery has the benefit of restricted growth and concentration of efforts in the winery. Their wines have a punch of Nebbiolo’s natural flavours and are distinctively forward and pleasing.

The region has played under a balance of the three wine styles and they have their own followers standing in their side of the court to defend the philosophy and question the other. While the traditionalist approach still is a matter of discussion amongst many for several reasons it also has a large band of connoisseurs keeping close track of their evolution. Modernists have become the new favourites amongst the tasters who appreciate simpler drinking wines and allowance of the land and fruit to speak for them. However, they’re frequently under the hammer for being not complex and jacketed in their presentation with the doubt of retaining their charm through decades of aging. The real question these two schools of thought pose is what is regarded a stronger force? With a fixed recipe and solo grape, is it the expression of fruit to speak through or is it the craftsmanship of the winemaker to utilize its skills and influences to create something that can last for decades? Whoever may win this battle, it will still keep turning discussions into arguments, and great Barolos and Barbarescos being made and tasted for pleasure.

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A Sweet Tipple

If there is a devotion Indians show as much as they do to God, cricket, politics, and movies, it’s to all things sweets. In fact, if you’re a true Indian, somewhere in the country or even away, you may even skip a visit to a temple, mosque, or a church but will definitely have a dose of sugar in one way or the other. Be it with our morning cups of coffee or chai, in yogurts with our meals, snack bags we munch on, those sugary drinks, shakes, smoothies, and juices, or just pure sweet and dessert courses that follow after our meals. Call it a deep-rooted connection with our ancestors’ diets that has drilled sugar-intake into our genes or the irresistible appeal of a platter of homemade sweets prepared at every corner of the street, India, in a nutshell, remains a sweet-toothed country. That’s the story generally after our meals. A somewhat equal reverence is enjoyed by the tipples we engage in before a meal. Be it light draws of beer or wine, or a generous pour of whisky on-the-rocks; we love them as they come. However, it’s interesting to see that this is one area that we like sans-sweetness. Quite a contrast you’d say.

Under the umbrella of fine wines, there exists an intriguingly exciting genre – dessert wines. They are the simplest (and at the same time, complex) that a wine can get. These wines can be sweet enough to replace your desserts, and hence the name. Rarely does one witness someone reject tasting these wines, especially in India. Be it at a morning tasting, an evening get-together, or at the dinner table, these are the most-demanded and first ones to vanish off the offering. Concern remain, they may appreciate tasting them but not order them from the winelists or pick them off the local wine shop shelves.

History of sweet wines began from the Greek and Roman era where grape juice was drawn and stirred with some yeast to initiate fermentation, breakdown of sugar to alcohol. With the lack of much understanding about the process, the wines would remain only partly fermented as the weak yeast would give up soon with dropping winter temperature and increasing alcohol levels and wouldn’t complete the cycle, resulting in a considerable portion of sugar unmoved, thus creating a sticky yet alluring sweet wine. Some of these were so highly regarded that they were reserved only for consumption by the kings’ court and the royal priests. Eventually, they spread out to reach the layman, only at certain marked occasions, and their worth was well understood. Even though the technology has boomed today to fully ferment the sugar but the divine temptation of these sweet drops hasn’t let the winestyle become a matter of the past. They are demanded the world around and reserve a considerable portion of the winelists. Yet, India has turned its back on them and hasn’t welcomed it with arms wide open, the reasons are many.

  1. Post-Dinner Drinks: Indians were introduced to the British idea of post-meal indulgence but never received it fully. Be it Cognacs and brandies, digestive liqueurs, or even something as simple as coffee. Lunch is considered a workingman’s meal, thus light, and dinners are almost a gala event. We compensate what we miss out at lunchtime with heavy main courses of rich gravies, curries, and rice, leaving no corner for these post-dinner sips. Dessert wines are not a mid-meal proposition and are best reserved for later. Indian cuisine generally doesn’t allow us that liberty, drawing only a little scope for their presence on our tables.
  2. Variety of Indian Sweets: We love our desserts, don’t we? Be it as light as Sandesh, kheer, basundi, or phirni, to something as heavy as Jalebi, Gulab Jamun, or Khubani ka Meetha, we can polish off the platter in a jiffy. The concern remains with their complexity of styles, sweetness levels, textures, and serving temperatures (especially when served warm). Although there exist wines from light to almost raisin-sweet luscious sticky consistency to match all levels of India sweets, however, the idea of pairing them with something to sip alongside is non-prevalent. Desserts in European/ Western cuisines are generally served cold and classified into three flavour-dominant categories: Heavy: chocolate/coffee-based, moderate: caramel based, light – sugar based, and so are the wines, making it simpler to marry. Indians desserts are a complex chapter, even for Indians, and lack of understanding of the two worlds has inhibited the acceptance of dessert wines here.
  3. Health Concerns: A hereditary health concern engrained in our genetics is that of diabetes. If you’re not one yet, the fearful thought of getting there defines what you eat, right! Dessert wines and Ports can have as much as 100 grams of sugar per litre, or even more. This is the same natural sugar found in fruits, called Fructose, but in higher concentration. Though it is healthy but our genetic build-up suggests us to stay away.
  4. Connoisseurship:  Wines are a fine beverage, everyone likes to be seen talking about them. A little knowledge about wines and their vocabulary places you in the category of ‘connoisseur’ in your social circle. While some believe sweet wine is just alcohol with sugar, truth is they are never easy to describe. As a general belief, talking about these wines is considered less intelligent. Most vinos embark their wine-drinking experiences with Goan Port-style wines, the sugary red wine that tastes almost angelic when youthful. In social circles, however, they wouldn’t rate it high. Even if that’s your daily poison, they are looked down upon and thus refrained from, holding its sugary sweetness to blame. It’s true, some bad wines are masked with sugar to bring them to a drinkable status, but not all sweet wines stand true to that notion. Historically speaking, three wines were called ‘gods’ wine’, and two amongst them were dessert wines. Amongst these two, one is so prestigious for the country that it’s a part of their national anthem! 
  5. Temperature and Portions: Hotels andrestaurants fail to educate the consumers about the fact that high sweetness makes the drinkability of dessert wines restricted. Result, 90-100ml is their average service portion, against 150ml of dry wines. Furthermore, as the sugar level escalates the service temperature should be dropped to curb the sticky, clawing mouthfeel the wines can bring. If not presented at the right temperature, they can potentially taste identical to warm chaashni (rich thick sugar syrup). Throw your dessert wine bottles at the back of the freezers for an hour and pour them out in tiny a portion, that’s liquid bliss!!

Here’s a list of wines that can convert you into a sweet wine lover:

  • Light Sweet Wines: A great way to become akin to the delicate aromatic lifted sweetness of these wines is to start light. An Italian or Australian Moscato, Off-dry German or Australian Riesling, or an Argentinean Torrontes can do just the job. These wines are not too sweet and can even be had by themselves on a lazy summer afternoon when chilled. The wines are fruity and perfumed and have great compatibility with Apple Halwa, Kheer, cheesecakes, and other dairy-based desserts.

My Picks: Martini Asti (Italy), Torres Vina Esmeralda (Spain), MTB Torrontes (Argentina), Selbach and Dr. Loosen Riesling (Germany), Sula Vineyards Chenin Blanc (India)

  • Medium Sweet Wines: They are a notch above the light sweet wine category with sugar left unfermented intentionally to let them sit comfortably besides your desserts. Ports, Late Harvest Chenin Blancs, and Moscato d’Asti are commendable examples and can almost make you push your desserts away to make way for these beauties. They combine well with Malpua, Khubani ka Meetha, Jalebi, Carrot and Dal Halwas.

My Picks: Reveilo Late Harvest Chenin Blanc and Vallonne Vin de Passerillage (Indian), Fratelli Vineyards Sidus Port (Indian), Cockburn Twany Port (Portugal), Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato d’Asti (Italian)

  • Sticky Sweet Wines: When you feel like having nothing else but a dessert for dinner and wish to pull out the sweetest dish out, reserve these wines for then. Caution! They are sweet enough to make you fall asleep. Sauternes, Moscatel d’Oro, Botrytis Semillon, and Icewines (if you find one) are what populate this category. Anything made with caramel and sticky sugar syrup-wrapped, pair these wines with them confidently. A great way to relish them is to pour these wines over a scoop of vanilla or cookie-and-cream ice-cream and relish them as a sophisticated yet elegant combo.

My Pick: De Bortolli Botrytised Semillon (Australia), Torres Floralis Moscatel d’Oro (Spain), Inniskillin Vidal Icewine (Canada)

Dessert wines are the most fun one can have from the family of fine wines. They are inviting, playful, elegant, approachable, and their sweetness makes all the complexities melt down in front of their captivating allure. Approach them without any apprehensions and relish their fine flavours and you’ll see how easy it is to become their disciple. And yes, forget not to chill them. Cheers!! 

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Wines To Gift

Every festive season the big question haunts us – Which are the wines to gift? Because you don’t want to be out of pocket on the wines you aren’t going to get a taste of. Nor do you wish to delpete your own wine cellar – those were to drink, not to gift, right! Sommelier Gagan SHARMA gives his two cents on the subject

HOW TO PICK WINES TO GIFT

It’s that time of the year when the festive spirit has set in. In most homes, an old table in the corner is stacked with received gifts and the liquor cabinet runs dry after daily celebrations. One way to make sure that cabinet is constantly refreshed – and that your gift is truly enjoyed – is by gifting wines! Sophisticated gifts that speak of your good taste, wines are well received as presents by most people. 

Selecting a wine to gift is easy. Look for a wine that is simple to approach and yet not the most basic of its class. Play it safe by choosing a wine that you are familiar with and would enjoy yourself, but be adventurous while picking styles. Reds have always been the preferred style, but white wines, sparkling wines and dessert wines can work just as well. When receiving wine, uncork them without ageing them too much. And finally, what’s more exciting than an attractive label? If it enticed you enough to draw you to its corner in the wine store, it must be worth presenting too. With these basic guidelines in mind, you can use your imagination to present a wide range of wines this festive season. 

MY PICK OF GIFTING WINES

Here’s a selection of wines I’d be excited to receive:

Fratelli Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, India (INR620, available at House of Spirits, Delhi)

Crisp and herbaceous with intense notes of guava and gooseberries, this is one of the most exciting Indian wines to hit the market. With an appealing citrusy finish, it pairs well with creamy pasta and seafood dishes. 

Selbach Incline Riesling, Germany (INR1,530, available at Nature’s Basket outlets)

A true example of the classic German style, this wine is off dry and light bodied with sweet white fruit and floral notes, finishing with a refreshing sweet lime citrus note. Mild Indian curries would work well with its flavours. 

Carpineto Dogajolo Bianco, Italy (INR1,910, available at Nature’s Basket outlets)

A youthful wine with floral hints and notes of white fruit and orange blossom, this one has a refreshing acidity and a light-bodied appeal. This is a great wine to pair with a cheese platter, chicken salami and mushroom quiches. 

Grovers Vineyards La Reserve, India (INR670, available at House of Spirits, Delhi)

Among the most celebrated Indian reds, La Reserve captures the essence of French wine and is a stellar example of quality winemaking. With notes of red and dark fruit, supple tannins and a spicy edge, this one is a mature yet approachable mine. Juicy red meat or spicy Chinese dishes marry well with it.

Jacobs Creek Reserve Shiraz, Australia (INR1,750, available at all major wine stores)

This big-hearted Aussie Shiraz reveals peppery notes at first sip that mellow into ripe dark fruits, cassis, cherries, sweet spices, oak and velvety tannins. Decant this wine before serving. It pairs well with spicy dishes and fiery curries.

Torres Iberricos Tempranillo, Spain (INR1,800, available at Defence Store, Delhi)

An approachable red that’s easy to appreciate. This medium-bodied wine has notes of perfumed red fruit, plums, sweet berries, subtle tannins, and a creamy, oaky finish. A great sipping wine that would go especially well with tapas.

Zampa Soiree Brut Sparkling, India (INR600, available at all major wine stores) 

This is an Indian sparkling wine that enjoys international repute. Fruity, herbaceous, refreshing and citrusy, this is a well-balanced wine that is as apt for celebrations as for connoisseurs. A must try!

Prosecco San Simone Sparkling, Italy (INR1,450, available at all major wine stores) 

This Italian bubbly is uncomplicated and easy to enjoy. It has hints of white fruit and sweetlime with an underlying herbaceous flavour. There’s a touch sweet on the finish. It would pair best with mild chicken dishes, seafood preparations, and vegetarian Indian curries. 

Torres Floralis Moscatel d’Oro, Spain (INR1,295, available at Defence Store, Delhi) 

This wine puts a smile on your face right from the first sniff, enticing you to take a sip without much ado. It has notes of honey, marmalade, orange blossom, cashew, dried nuts, figs and dried apricots. Served it super chilled with chocolate and caramel desserts.

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Prosecco – A Sparkling Story

Chillers lined up with curvy frost-obscured bottles of sparkling wines sitting comfortably over ice, faint abrupt sound of corks pulled out lingering with flowing fizz in the background, sunshine and gently passes through the sheer curtains, plush vineyards and fragrance of the hills outside, amidst that tables setup with delicately paired lunches of exquisite local dishes, an indulgence worthy of being adjudged a memory of a lifetime, that’s how I remember my sojourn in Veneto for a three day extravaganza celebrating the Conegliano Valdobiadene Prosecco Superiore wines and the release of their latest vintages.

Sparkling wines have been the ambassador of joy, celebration, and marking of an auspicious occasion. Leading them from the front undoubtedly, in prestige and production, is Champagne. Its closest rival is Franciacorta, the Italian namesake. Here, although Franciacorta leads, it’s supported by spumanti (Italian term for sparkling) wines of Asti and Prosecco, producing two completely unrelated styles but nonethless soft, fruity, flavoursome, and enjoyable propositions. Amongst them, while Asti is regarded as ‘the perfect breakfast wine’ ­– it’s light, less alcoholic, and usually semi-sweet – Prosecco remains a good-hearted younger sibling in the sparkling wine family who is more fun and vibrant. It does not compete with the two giants of Franciacorta and Champagne as it belongs to a different genre and bears little similarity.

Set on the north-eastern frontier of Italy, close to Venice, is the region of Treviso. In its hilly strips lie the two main towns for producing the highest quality Prosecco – Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. As difficult is pronouncing the names, equally simple to appreciate are the quality wines hailing from these two regions, called Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Supierore. The cold hills of these towns are steep enough to make walking in the yards a herculean task, let alone for viticulture. Workers and farmers have carved the hills inch by inch over years to induce the plausibility to grow grapes here. Today, they represent not just the regional wines but also the royal history (summer home for the Venetian kings), the efforts of the local producers and workers, and still retain their natural beauty to be now running a candidature for UNESCO World Heritage Site acknowledgement. They are the native home to the golden-yellow berried Glera variety, offering floral, pear, stoned white fruit, citrus, and unique almond notes at the finish. It wasn’t the one that flourished in the vineyards from the start though. Verdiso, a racy, acidic, rather neutral and zesty variety ruled before. Its fragile character to the prevailing diseases and low production quality allowed its glory only to be short-lived, letting Glera takeover. It is still cultivated here but only as an ancillary variety.

Found amidst these towns is a small hamlet and home to the hill of Cartizze, amongst the world’s most expensive viticultural properties, 106 hectare land owned by over a 100 producers, each commanding less than 1 hectare (8000 bottles). It is the steepest hill in the province and thus the most regarded. Wines from this vineyard prevail on the top of the quality pyramid and are called Valdobbiadene Supierore di Cartizze. Mostly produced in an Extra-Dry style here, making it a fairly medium-dry wine that are quite scrumptious. Given their high prestige and restricted production, they dictate high prices and in their best examples are discerning too.

Separating Proseccos from these two are many factors. It’s predominantly a single-varietal wine, made from the local Glera grape, previously called the Prosecco variety. Capturing its delicate discerning aromas and their freshness in their wines is the pride of a winemaker. To allow that, they are vinified a tad differently. To cite a comparison, wines in Champagne were made in bottles with second fermentation lasting for months and then letting the yeast breakdown to produce those mushroomy, brioche-like, bready flavours. However, for Prosecco, grapes are painstakingly hand-harvested and brought to ferment, and unlike with champagne which is made in dark and cold underground cellars, these wines are made in sturdy, glittering steel tanks by what is known as the Tank or the Charmat Method. While many may believe, also as commonly told, that the process was introduced by Frenchman Eugène Charmat, in the 1990s, the reality differs. Quite interestingly, it was invented in Piedmont in 1895 by Federico Martinotti. It was only later that Charmat implemented and took it elsewhere. Martinotti’s invention promised soft, fruity, rather simple, often sweet, wines that can be relished in their youth. It became popular given the speed and ease with which it produced as well as the economics when compared to the traditional method. The grapes are crushed and put to ferment to produce a base wine in these tanks, rested, and clarified. A mix of edible sugar and yeast is then added to this clear wine to allow second fermentation where all the fizz is generated and captured, producing semi-sparkling and fully-sparkling versions.

Confusions and misconceptions have haunted the scene of this wine from the start. A little clarity was brought in 2009. First, the grape varietal was brought to front clearing the fog of it being called Prosecco grape to its original name, Glera. Then, partially even now, Prosecco meant a wine coming from the Prosecco region of Italy. This was reinstated and Conegliano and Valdobbiadene were brought to the front. Most important clarity came from the point that Prosecco meant a wine from a larger defined area that followed the rather convenient rules but was a more industrial and basic quality produce, thus the second-in-repute designation of Denominazione di Origine Protetta (DOP). These could be still or sparkling with grapes coming from easy-to-operate flat terrain. The highest guaranteed quality Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) wines were called Conegliano Valdobiadene Prosecco Superiore, ensuring stringent rules were followed in handling and converting the best grapes from the best sites to develop only the best-crafted wines. An idea of quality differentiation between Prosecco DOP and Conegliano Valdobiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG can be drawn from the fact that while the former requires 150 work hours in the vineyards per hectare of cultivation every vintage, the latter incurs 600 hours to produce the same. This is just to produce the grapes for these two designated wines, considering that, work to follow in the winery thereafter can only be imagined. This has come as a blessing in disguise for the local producers and has registered a better understanding and respect for the wines produced here, alongside a steady rise in demand and production.

In my recent trip to the area, I tasted wines from various producers and was allowed to visit a few. It is overwhelming to see how closely knitted is the relation between man and nature here where wine is not just a beverage just also a part of their daily lives, culture, and existence. On my last visit I returned understanding the three versions of the wine – Brut, Extra Dry, and Dry. While ‘Dry’ in still wines refers to complete absence of detectable sugar on the palate, here it is the sweetest avatar. Extra Dry was the version I appreciated the most then. However, this changed this time. Maybe it is my growing palate or just a better understanding of the other styles, but I was drawn more to the Brut version, which also has a considerable amount of sugar to tickle your fancy. Higher sugar levels than the Brut style made it a tad difficult to enjoy the following wines, restricted the drinkability, and was able to coat the natural nuances of the grape. Amongst many, Bisol, Bortolotti, Le Colture, Carpene Malvolti, and Villa Sandi were especially impressive and had a more approachable drinkability. Capene Malvolti and Le Colture are the two ends of the production capacity. While the former is amongst the pioneers and flag-bearer of establishing Prosecco as a winestyle, La Colture focuses on smaller yet controlled capacity. Their Bruts represented their philosophy and style and were built to impress. Villa Sandi’s Vigna La Rivetta Cartizze remained a personal favourite with ripe and concentrated intense floral aromas and a delicately fruity palate.

My most educating discovery came from visiting a winery that claims to be the first and only producer organic wine producer. Organic viticulture and winemaking is a school of thought that believes in letting the vineyard soil and the vine develop a strong immunity against the deadliest prey and diseases that can attack the production. For this, the vineyards are not allowed to be treated with chemicals of any form, minus the essential few. This has no proven bearing on the vine and grape quality and/or taste of the resulting wines. However, it is believed to improve the age and structure of the vineyard and makes it a home of better conditions for the vines to live in. Wines from chemical-free and healthier vineyard sources are perceived to be healthier and thus do record a marginally better market image and cater to the nature-loving denizens too. There is an increasing trend for such wines however in some markets vinos do not really select these wines over others simply because of the certification. Taste is the only parameter that rules their decision. Perlage, a winery started in 1985, has grapes coming from 86 hectares of self-owned and outsourced vineyards, all organically operated. Owners take pride in being the first company in the region to be completely certified. They produce a range of wines for the domestic as well as international market serving numerous countries. Upon putting their wines to the taste-test, the wines failed to impress, even upon including the fact that they are organically grown and may taste in a different manner. They were mushy, dusty, with aroma of moist long-left vegetables, and were mostly yeast. Be it in a blind tasting or a black-tie dinner, it’s better to appreciate them only from a distance.

I have enjoyed Proseccos and Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore at every occasion they have been offered. Fruity, vivacious, and character-driven, these wines break the insistence of appreciating the wines for their high-valued price-tag. Its evolution may have come only in the recent past, yet, it has rapidly earned its share of aficionados converting them towards it enticing them with its unique allure, and I’m a convert for sure. With these delectable wines waiting to be uncorked and enjoyed, I can’t wait to plan my next visit to these towns and its cellars. Cin Cin!

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Ghost Of Dom Perignon

While some stories are backed with historical evidences, some are made to sell. Interesting stories are an imperative tool to sell wines – word of a sommelier. One such story was refurbished in 1821 by Dom Gossard that earned Dom Perignon, Benedict Monk and cellarmaster at the Abbey of Hautvilliers in Champagne, the much coveted title of ‘father of sparkling wines’. He is believed to have accidentally “discovered” them while making quaffable still dry wines. These claims can be challenged, posing questions to his title and the origin of Champagnes as there lie many flaws and misconceptions in the story.

Birth of sparkling wines is marked between 1500s and 1600s. The story of their origin goes this way. Grapes were harvested in early winters and put to ferment straight away. With the following months, winters turned too cold to let the yeast to act and ferment the sugar, and resulted in halting its activity. Mistaking this pause as the end of fermentation, the wines were bottled for later consumption. Unfermented sugar and sleeping yeast still suspended, due to lack of filtering techniques to remove the yeast. As the summers drew and temperature rose, the stalled fermentation restarted, producing more alcohol and carbon dioxide, resulting in a dry wine with bubbles upon opening. This process was called Methode Ancestrale. Champagnes, however, are made differently by a process called Methode Traditionelle. To a finished wine, a mix sugar and yeast is intentionally added and sealed in bottles for a second fermentation to occur. The resulting carbon dioxide dissolves in the liquid, under pressure, eventually forming tiny bubbles and a fine wine. However, this process evolved much later after the true origin of sparkling wines and its connection to Dom Perignon’s discovery is grim.

To begin with, let’s end this rumour that Dom Perignon was blind. He had an admirable palate and knew the region of Champagne and its vineyards like his backyard. In blind tasting of wines, he could tell the source of the grapes used, down to the vineyard’s name. Now we all know what a blind tasting is, don’t we? Another story says that he worked long-hours in underground cellars away from natural light weakened his sight, leading to complete blindness with growing age. Again, that has only little bearing to the claims. Interestingly, his major contributions to the wines of Champagne were in the vineyard, than in the cellars, that are still essentially followed in the area.

Underground cellars are preferred to that overground as they were cold and consistent in temperature, key principle for aging wines. Cellars of Abbey of Hautvilliers were ideally suited for this purpose, and Dom worked here. His wines are recorded to be still and considerably dry, indicating no residual sugar. It’s said that the wines underwent restarted fermentation at these cellars, leading the weak bottles to burst, and drawing Dom’s attention to them. However, this causes anxious contradiction from the principles of sparkling wine production. Firstly, if the wines were dry, with no sugar to feed on, how could have they have undergone restarted fermentation? Secondly, these cellars were too cold to allow yeasts activity, making it impractical for the process to occur. Thirdly, bottles weren’t used for cellaring during that era, as barrels were the preferred and wines were aged in them and served directly from. These doubts raise questionability to Dom’s work and his title. If not him, who produced the first sparkling wine? When and where? How were the bubbles produced? History dating before Dom’s birth, in 1638, answers these questions.

Blanquette de Limoux is a sparkling wine from Languedoc in Southern France. Its origin can be traced in written records at the Abbey of Saint-Hilaire from the year of 1531. Following Methode Ancestrale, wines finished their final leg of fermentation in sealed flasks producing semi-sparkling wines. Dom Perignon, on a pilgrimage visit to the Abbey here, tasted these wines and was offered complimentary training in this technique. It is indicative that he applied the technique to the still wines of Champagne aiming to produce sparkling wines. However, if he had already tasted the bubbles at Saint-Hilaire, why would he be so surprised upon tasting them at Champagne, thus quoting “I’m drinking the stars!” then?

Methode Traditionelle was introduced much after Dom’s death in 1715. In 1801, Jean-Antoine Chaptal and Andre Francois, who through their individual contributions, suggested the idea of adding sugar and yeast to the bottle to reinforce secondary fermentation and produce bubbles. In 1820, Madame Clicquot (of Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin) devised a revolutionary process to remove yeast from the bottle, called riddling, thus completing the circle of secondary bottle fermentation. . If the process was evolved much later, were Champagnes even made during his tenure?

The final myth to be broken before throwing light upon the true origin of Methode Traditionelle, is the use of glass bottles. As mentioned earlier, the increasing pressure during re-fermentation was too high for these weak glass bottles to hold, leading them to burst. However, glass bottles were an expensive proposition for monks to invest in them to cellar their wines in, especially if they were still. Pictorial and theoretical facts from as late as 1713, two years before Dom Perignon died, confirm that wines at monks’ tables were served from pitchers. They were red and were sourced from barrels directly, not bottles.

It can be that London is the true home to Methode Traditionelle. Craze and liking for sweetness amongst the British grew with opening the trade channels with the West Indies. Written evidence from 1617 tells that they added sugar to their wines. Instead of adding a spoonful to their glasses, they preferred adding it to the entire barrel in their cellars. Developing upon that, in 1660s, a paper was presented to the Royal Society in London, stating that addition of sugar to a wine, followed by sealing it in a bottle, results in secondary fermentation, which produces bubbles that are released when the wine is opened. Owing to the strong glass bottles they produced, this encouraged the practice of adding sugar to the bottles they brought from their local merchants and sealing them for later consumption, only to later realise that the resultant wines were not still and sweet, but sparkling and dry.

 With evident existence of sparkling wines before his birth, Methode Traditionelle’s true introduction post his demise, and no obvious signs of bottles being used in the cold cellars for storing still dry wines, it’s quite convincing that Dom Perignon’s title is false. Rather, his heroically descriptions in Dom Gossard’s story in 1821 were only to bring back the faith of the people in the Catholic Church after the long phase of French Revolution followed by Nepolean’s defeat at Waterloo in 1851. Champagnes, after Madame Clicquot’s invention, were on revolutionary hike and highly demanded by the British and European royalties and authoritarians. There could’ve been no better time or way for the Church to earn the faith in public by riding on Champagne’s success. Dom Gossard, also once a monk at the Abbey of Hautviliers, was brought to the job to execute the story and he did well at the presented task. 

This version may be a yet another shot at drawing questionability to Dom Perignon’s status. However, irrespective of the outcomes of these long-going debates, Champagnes will always remain at the pinnacle of fine wines, fascinating, and enjoyable. Concluding this, I’m firm to my idea, stories do make wines interesting, and interesting sells!

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Villa Maria Wines In India

Amongst the foremost international Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir styles anywhere in the world, there’s one from New Zealand. Known for its honest, mesmerising, and in-your-face varietal characters, there’s a surety and a liquid identity every bottle carries for its admirers. A brand in its own, any commendable wine-list stands incomplete without these neat wines from the island country. And amongst the most prestigious families carrying this brand forward is the Villa Maria Estate. Born in early 1960s, it proudly stands today as the most awarded New Zealand winery and the country’s most admired wine brand, straight fourth year in a row now. Having their presence in India, through Brindco Sales, for a decade already, a visit from the family was aptly due, marked by their very passionate and humble Export Manager, Michele Lam. With a MBA & Postgraduate Diploma in Wine Science from the revered University of Auckland, she has worked closely with the winery’s technical team and held local and international trade expansion roles. It was only fitting to meet with her during her Delhi sojourn for a rendezvous prior to the wine dinner she and Le Cave’s Madhulika Bhattacharya hosted at Shangri-La Hotel’s Asian restaurant, The Shang Palace. This was also her first visit to the country

What are your first impressions of the Indian market?

It’s a very exciting time to be in the growing Indian market. Even after very tight restrictions, regulations, and carries-to-entry, there’s ample scope for growth and experimentation, which can further be enhanced with innovations and through investments in education. 

What attracts Villa Maria to India?

India is opening up to new wines and the consumers are toying with global brands. We see a promise and scope for New Zealand wines as well. Our wines are distinctive and food-worthy, and given Indians’ passion towards their food, it could be a good marriage.

New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs and Pinot Noirs have become a brand in themselves. Is that good or bad for your business?

It definitely works well for the business. It puts us on the world map as serious winemakers, and creates an identity for our winemaking philosophy. It also opens doors for new markets through which we can showcase our other varietals, styles, and brands.

What other varietals from New Zealand do you see holding great promise?

There’s a ton of potential in Hawkes Bay’s French-styled Bordeaux Blends (Cabernet Sauvignon + Merlot). Their 2013 & 2014 vintages have been exceptional. New Zealand also produces outstanding Syrah, Malbec, Gewürztraminer, and Rieslings. Apart from these, we also have a self-owned nursery homing various varietals that we are experimenting with, like Arneis, Verdelho, Albarino, Grenache, Viognier, Semillon, Pinot Gris, and more. Villa Maria Estates is extremely passionate about Chardonnays and we have a wide range to offer. We see a great promise in them for the future.

What makes Villa Maria Estates’ wines different?

Villa Maria was founded by a 21 year old Croatian. He studied carpentry as a family business and grew up in Auckland. From having a humble beginning as a hobby winemaker in the garage, Villa Maria quickly grow into a recognised and admired international brand, reaching over 50 countries today. We are a formidable family-owned, quality-oriented, focused producer, with utmost regard for nature and sustainability.

India is a very price-sensitive market, and New Zealand has amongst the highest per-litre wine prices in the world. How does that play for you here?

It definitely is a challenge. It becomes our responsibility to educate the consumers why they’re paying extra for a brand. It’s the trust in our brand and quality of our family-owned wines that are not simply commercially churned. We may be a big brand now but our wines are still handmade, which is rare to find at this scale. Villa Maria is also New Zealand’s first ranked brand by value and volume in the biggest wine market – the UK. That speaks of our commitment in its own. People wish to support family businesses. Albeit Asia being a price-sensitive market, we sense the willingness of the consumer to pay a marginal premium and be associated with a valuable brand.

What is the support you seek from the Indian market and the New Zealand high Commission in promoting your produce?

Keep telling our story. We will tell the Indian story to the others and make it a two way street between the two nations. Much like our relationships in cricket and tourism, we must develop one for our wines too. Though our efforts in education, trade events, and glass tastings, and the imperative support of the New Zealand High Commission and the New Zealand Winegrowers Association, we’d like to create ambassadors for our wines and produce. 

What do you see as the future of wines in India?

It’s good to see the local industry grow. Consumers will move towards wines and will be then open to trying international wines. New Zealand wines, being fresh and easy, are amicable and approachable. Through this effort we will grow and become partners in the common cause of more and qualitative wine drinking.

Being your first visit to India, apart from wines, has it broken any myths for you?

It’s amazing to see a census for trees in the capital. I didn’t know you counted and numbered your trees with such seriousness. It’s also interesting to see the amount of animals on the streets and the regard commuters have for them. Delhi is unlike I thought it would be. There are beautiful buildings, malls, streets, and infrastructure. There are so many social groups coexisting amicably and the denizens are open and approachable. It is a great mix.

After this rather open and mutually educating conversation, we moved to the dinner table with fare from Chef Neeraj Tyagi’s kitchen and wines from Villa Maria’s offerings. It was interesting to see the two iconic ‘Cellar Selection’ Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. They were delectable as always. However, their lesser seen wines from the ‘Private Bin’ range – Marlborough’s Riesling, Chardonnay from the East Coast, and Hawkes Bay’s Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon, were the stars of the evening. The personality-driven Riesling paired exquisitely well with the Asian dishes, and opened the evening with a pleathora of flavours. Chardonnay showed grace and potential, sitting poised between a playful and a serious profile, and the elegant Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon blend brought masculinity and substance to pair well with the meaty dishes. 

2017 Private Bin Riesling, Marlborough – INR2410, Le Cave, New Delhi

Spritzy, youthful, and refreshing palate with concentrated ripe fleshy white and yellow fruit flavours, balanced with ripe citrus acidity, and lemon candy sweetness. Floral and perfumed tones at the back with a delicate oily finish. Light and easy-drinkability. 

2017 Private Bin Chardonnay, East Coast – INR2410, Le Cave, New Delhi

Shy nose with initial oaky opening. Palate opens to a good mix of over-ripe stoned fruits, toasted oak, touch of spices, and a round buttery mouthfeel, delicately balanced with soft acidity. A commendable structure with a youthful palate, a good drinking wine with a serious appeal.

2015 Private Bin Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon, Hawkes Bay – INR2360, Le Cave, New Delhi

Plush fruit-forward wine with a mild oaky accent and soft tannins, adding to its elegant palate with a dusty grip. Touches of earthy, tobacco, meat, and leather displaying signs of maturation. Juicy and citrus finish makes it a very drinkable wine that pairs well with soft red meats. 

2016 Cellar Selection Pinot Noir – INR4200, Le Cave, New Delhi

Ripe cherry, plums, cranberries, and sweet red berries on the palate, an abundance of juicy fruitiness. A delicately handled serious-styled Pinot with very fine soft tannins, astute structure, and a luscious appeal. A gentleman of a wine, commanding regard at each sip.

2017 Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc – INR3630, Le Cave, New Delhi

Hauntingly beautiful aromas of eucalyptus, green olives, capsicum, and cut grass. Crisp acidity, touch dusty flinty earthiness, hints of oily texture at the back, and a grainy chewiness adding to the mouthfeel. An impressive, intelligently made, layered, humbling example.

 

First published in Spiritz Magazine in July, 2018

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WINE – The Sunlight Captured By Water

“Wine is sunlight captured by water”, Galileo once rightly said. Fundamentally, this is what wine is – what nature gives and the earth captures to produce, only requiring little assistance from mankind, and at times not even that. Here’s a country that has all of that, abundance of bright sunlight and ample water to capture. It combines the two to produce wines that are not shy to challenge any of the long-respected and proudly-standing discerning wine-styles of the world, like those of Bordeaux Rouge, Chianti Classico, Mosel Riesling, Prosecco, and even Ports and Sherries, and still is left with an array of unique styles of their own to offer. This is Australia, what I very fondly also call my beloved second home. It has matured from the rugged outback with crass-accented, sun-tanned, and dust-wrapped mates, to the home of wise craftsmen who, owing to their varied origins, have brought together the best of skills, knowledge, and understanding of various arts to develop a concoction that has formulated a formidable ground for new discoveries. And wine is only one of those arts they present. Immigrants from across Europe and other commonwealth colonies settled in Australia owing to it its mix of cultures which shows clearly in its lifestyle and even its wines. It today proudly stands as one of the most innovative and definitely stylish New World wine producing country.

It was in the early 1960s the wave of ‘Brand Australia’ started. It was set to create an identity based on varietal wines which was against the traditional Old World region-based approach, like those of Burgundy, Rioja, Chablis, and Barolo. No doubt it was a brave step, given the fact that Australia has not even a single native grape variety to itself. They created a super-zone of Southeast Australia. It is the regional accumulation of wine areas from parts of South Australia, Victoria, New South Wales, and Queensland, which is today the biggest multi-regional blended wine ‘identity’ of Australia. It is here that my start recent visit to this wine country began. It was in the Heart of Adelaide that we found ourselves sipping the wines that define the fine wine club of Australia, the home to Jacob’s Creek’s Johann Cabernet Sauvignon and Jacob’s Creek’s Steingarten Riesling, and Penfold’s Grange (Shiraz), Yattarna Chardonnay. Although the region is considered the home for cool-climate Chardonnay, however, the legendary wines like St Hugo and Grange step in to show the diversity of the land. Jacob’s Creek family is one of the oldest wineries in the country producing some seriously exquisite wines. They have successfully captured the globe with their variety of wines. On the other hand, Penfolds’s Grange is Australia’s answer to the Rhone Valley’s Hermitage style. It has now become the template that every budding winemaker follows and secretly aims to achieve. However, I couldn’t stop and sip their Yattarna Chardonnay at the dinner we had at their much celebrated and highly rated restaurant, The Magill Estate.

Adelaide Hills re-established itself in the 1970s after various viticultural hiccups and today hosts over hundred wineries. Amongst them, one whose labels have become an international attraction is the Longview winery. This family-owned winery is set in a small hamlet away from the main valley and usually produces single-vineyard wines. It co-hosts a championship for graffiti artists from across the country and the winning piece becomes the wine label of their iconic ‘The Piece’ Shiraz. The wines are as attractive as the labels are. And just to make their offering interestingly playful, they also produce an Italian classic red, a Nebbiolo.

Shaw + Smith Winery is not only a local icon but has also attracted international allocates for their Chardonnays. The winery hosted a masterclass to showcase the best of the regional hero from various houses. Of course the 2007 Shaw + Smith Chardonnay made an impact, however, the 2012 Ochota Barrels ‘The Slint Vineyards’ and the Wirra Wirra ‘The 12th Man’ Chardonnays also left us surprisingly impressed. The winery also produces a Pinot Noir which confirms the great partner it makes for the Chardonnay to grow with in a cool-climate setting. The rolling creeks of the region with faint overhead cover and the sun playing hide-and-seek makes perfect guardian to these high quality vineyards vintage after vintage.

While we thought we had already seen all shades of the Adelaide Hills’ vinous offering, we passed by a German settlement in the hamlet of Hahndorf and met with Larry Jacobs, co-owner of the Hahndorf Hill Winery, only to be surprised further. He has a different approach to the land and its climate here. Austrian varietals like Gruner Veltliner, Zweigelt, and Blaufrankisch awaited us at the cellar door tasting room.  These tongue-twisting varietals are rarely seen elsewhere in the world outside Austria. What was surprising was not only that we encountered them here, but also their quality and resemblance to their native examples. Gruner Veltliner, or as it is also fancily called Gru-Vee, makes an excellent aperitif, or an evening easy-sipping wine, as well as a great accompaniment to food. While its red partner, Zweigelt, is a delectable fruity style red varietal that produces round, gentle, and playful wines. It was most definitely an experience to take back from the Hills.

As we moved, although momentarily, to the neighbouring sub-region of Barossa Valley, we entered the classical home to Cabernet Sauvignon wines. We were at the historical vineyards of Penfolds Block 42 Kalimna Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s here that one finds the oldest planting of Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the world that still produces grapes for winemaking. In mid-2007, Penfolds made an exclusive special release of 12 bottles of their 2004 vintage from this vineyard, with each bottle tagged at about INR100,00,000. It turned the industry’s heads towards Australia once again and ensured that the wine world doesn’t forget what the producers Down Under are capable of. Jacob’s Creek’s St. Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon is another respectful label that is much sorted, however is more subtle and approachable when young. 

It’s not surprising that the South Australian wines have earned a spot amongst the top-rated wines of the world. It is the mix of influences, both natural as well as the human touch, which have worked in tangent to produce these fine drops. And let’s not forget the vast understanding of these craftsmen behind the labels that has merged with their experiences and knowledge to have made the Aussie wine scene as vivid, playful, and unique as it is today. There are more hidden gems to the countries regions, however, the plethora that Southeast Australia has will always be a challenge to match.

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10 Minutes Guide To Indian Wines

If you are thinking of labelling India a New World winemaking country, stop right there! You’re missing some interesting excerpts from your own history. India has been making wines from even before when Jesus walked the face of Earth! Chanakya, the country’s first viticulturist and winemaker, produced his first cuvée as early as the 7th century BC. Later (much later) came the British and India by then had become quite the vinous hub, supplying to the neighbouring Commonwealth members. So respected were these wines that to boast their quality Calcutta, in 1883, hosted an international expo awarding wines made in these colonies. What they started as an indigenous culture was embraced by the modern day grape-grower to produce wines that are grabbing awards and accolades the world over. With only three in the 1970s, India today boasts over a hundred wineries.

BANKING ON INDIAN WINES

It’s undoubtedly the most exciting time to be in India and to be producing this beverage of the Gods. In the last year, India added some meticulously crafted delectable wines that are worth dedicating an evening to.  With new varietals and styles crowding the shelves, it can be a tad challenging to pick the right one. Grab some of these commendable newbies on your next visit to the wine-store:

Fratelli Vineyards Sangiovese Bianco (Juben Wines, Mumbai – INR695)

Asia’s first varietal Sangiovese Bianco, now that’s a rarity! A light bodied wine with a good mix of floral and fruity notes backed with refreshing acidity. It’s a simple sipping wine as well as one to bring to the dinner table with dishes like vegetable Korma, grilled fish, white creamy pastas, and even some lightly tossed green salads to complement the personality of this funky one.

Charosa Viognier (Patel Wines, Mumbai – INR750)

Continuing India’s Viognier fetish. Vibrant floral and sweet-lime candy nose with hints of marigold, clove, honey-dew melon, pear, and a touch herbaceous. Well-rounded texture with a hint of oak at the back. A good accompaniment to creamy Indian curries, cheese raviolis, steamed white fish dishes, and Mediterranean kebab platters.

Seagram’s Nine Hills Rose (Leading Retail Stores, Delhi – INR575)

Not a new entrant but definitely a new style. Appointing new winemaking team that shows a fresh philosophy at work. Romantic watermelon shade with notes of strawberries, raspberries, sweet cherries, rhubarb, and vanilla, finishing with a hint of sweetness. An exciting turn-around with an impressive makeover. 

Chandon Brut Rosé Sparkling (Juben Wines, Mumbai – INR1400)

Latest buzz-maker, not only locally but internationally. An exquisite palate with light, crisp mouthfeel and burst of delicate flavours of red fruits and berries, rhubarb candy, hint water cracker-like, and a gentle fizzy finish. A good food wine to accompany sushi dishes, light fish and white meat grills, cold cuts, and cheese raviolis.

KRSMA Cabernet Sauvignon (Madhuloka Wines, Bengaluru INR1500)

Possibly the next big icon in the Indian wine brigade. The company produces two templates from the varietal, one following the Bordeaux style, the other Californian. The latter has an alluring sense of style, elegance, and balance at par. Sweet oak front with ripe and concentrated raspberries, plums, dark cherries, violets, cassis, and toasted vanilla notes to follow. The heaviness and intense tannins of the wine makes way for heavier dishes like rustic pork chops, grilled lamb steaks, coq-au-vin, and even smoky Asian preparations.

Alpine Winery Vindiva Shiraz (Madhuloka Wines, Bengaluru INR685)

Based near Bangalore City, Vindiva is a promising setup. Medium-bodied wine showcasing varietal characteristics of black pepper and dark spices, blackberries, mashed red fruits, rounding up with a sweet cola note. The masculine tannic grip can be well matched with tandoori raan, mutton burra, beef tenderloin, and mushroom risotto. 

Charosa Tempranillo Reserve (Patel Wines, Mumbai – INR1500)

Another first for India, a varietal Tempranillo wine. Made in a Spanish style, a lovely wine, showing minerality, notes of ripe raspberries and blueberries, cherries, plums, and an earthy character, well- integrated tannins, rounding with a mild layer of oak characters. Serve alongside chorizo skewers, seafood pallela, tandoori dishes, and Malabar chicken!

Vallonne Vineyards Malbec (Fun-Fair Wines, Mumbai – INR1190)

A heroic return after grabbing a recent international allocate, possibly the only Malbec varietal wine of repute in the country. Deep ruby shade with a bright appearance. Complex notes of floral, sweet spices, and fleshy blue fruits, backed with masculine tannins and a round finish. A good accompaniment to lamb stew, and spicy Indian meat curries.

Vallonne Vineyards Vin de Passerillage (375ml) (Kashmir Wines, Mumbai – INR810)

An orthodox style made dessert wine by sun-drying the grapes to concentrate the sweet nectar of these shrivelled berries. An appealing lush golden hue, with notes of white honey, sweet white fruits, sweetlime, and touch of Indian sweet spices. Think of Apple Halwa, Malpua, Pecan Pie, Almond Paraline Ice-cream, and even blue cheese to serve it with.