Author: Harsh Saxena

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Siqera – An Apple A Day

The new-age drinkers, dominated by millennials, are moving towards lesser but healthier drinking. An emotional connect with their drams is highly desired. And there’s no better way to establish this connect with something we’ve grown up relishing. Being the world’s third largest producer of apples, introducing a hip cider brand in Indian is the perfect idea. Ciders may not ring a bell for many in India, yet, that doesn’t stop this fizzy & fun drink from making its presence felt in the country’s alcobev markets. 

HISTORY OF CIDERS

While it may be a new drink for the Indian denizens, its history rivals that of beer and wine. There’s evidence that Celts in Britain made cider from crab apples as long ago as 3000BC. Evidence of apple trees growing along the banks of the Nile River can be found dating back to about 1300BC. Club that with their love for brewing, being the innovators of beers, it can be said confidently that they were drinking ciders too. When the first Romans sailed to invade the British Isles in 55BC, the locals were already drinking a cider-like apple drink. Romans were quick to fall in love with the drink, and the empire spread its goodness across Europe, making it popular amongst the Germanic tribes to the Normans. They even mastered the art of distilling and created Calvados, the best ones hailing from Normandy today!

BEER CHALLENGES CIDER

With the discovery of hops in the 16th CE, cider noticed a decline. Beers could now be preserved and transported, thanks to the industrial revolution and the introduction of steam engines. This was only a short decline though. Cider regained its prestige in the 17th CE, with the rise of Puritanism, and King Charles I preferring cider to wines. Since then its popularity has only grown. During the wars, water wasn’t to be trusted. It was contaminated and carried Cholera, Typhoid, Malaria, Dysentery, E. Coli, and other nasty diseases. A mildly alcoholic drink like cider served as an antidote, it was antibacterial, antifungal, antiseptic, and nutritious. Everyone drank it, including children! Owing to its goodness, and life-saving values, it even found its mention in many religious texts. The Hebrew Bible (new testament) says that any alcoholic beverage made from fruits (other than grapes) back in the days was commonly termed as ‘Shekar’, or ‘Sikera’ by the Greeks.

Cider History
Siqera Apple + Mango Ciders

SIQERA – THE INDIAN CIDER

Today, with China producing 54% of the world’s apples and India being the third biggest, after the US, Asians are falling in love with this drink again. And that’s where the trio of Rishi Dhawan, Amit Berwal and Amar Srivastava comes in, with their initiative to create a quality-oriented, classy, and healthy cider, called ‘Siqera’. Amit holds a Diploma in Winemaking from New Zealand, Amar has been the head brewer at Doolally, Pune, and Rishi brings in his entrepreneurial skills from his MBA degree. Together, they are now changing our favourite post-work drinks and weekend tipples. 

JOURNEY SO FAR

The initial thought brewed in 2017 from chats and meetings over a few drinks. Amit and Rishi wanted to ‘premium-ise’ the local alcohol industry. Ciders were missing from the Indian scenes, even after a few failed attempts by Tempest, Himachal, and Bhai ciders in the mountain states. While across the world they were deemed as a rapidly growing segment, India was missing all the goodness. Amar had been making one of the most talked-about ciders in the Pune-Mumbai taproom circuit at Doolally. So they joined hands and pounced at the opportunity. They had major roadblocks to cross to begin with. Producing a beverage outside of an already defined category under the local excise rules comes with its own unique challenges. Having no cideries in Haryana, Rishi says, posed as the biggest. “We had to build the whole process from the ground up with the support of Excise and Taxation Department of Haryana to get everything in order – from setting up the manufacturing unit, to getting a cold bottle of our cider in your hands. It is the first of its kind, which in a way motivates the team, as long as they believe in their dream and final vision of the brand”. Their hard work has landed them not only the licence today, but also a fully-operational cidery, probably the first professional setup of its kind in India, in Manesar.

APPLE + MANGO CIDER

When asked why did they pick cider from the host of possible drinks, they opine that it was their connection with the fruit that moved them towards providing it a proper platform. And talking of a connect, the second variant is an infusion with mango! The team agrees that the magic of mango is very close to every Indian’s heart. Before settling on it though, trials with a few different fruits were executed. It’s the instant connection with the resultant beautiful golden drink which till date remains hard to explain in words. “There’s something about the memory of running barefoot on the street with an armful of mangoes that’s embedded in every Indian’s conscious. Siqera’s Mango Cider is a playful Indian twist on traditional ciders. So, for us, it was the right fruit choice to give our consumers something which they would emotionally connect to.”

PRODUCTION

Apple concentrate is brought in from China and is diluted with water before fermentation with the Champagne yeast. This specific strain of yeast aids in preserving the natural fruit flavours while adding none of its own. It takes approximately 25 days for a bottle to be produced from scratch and be ready for dispatch. For the mango cider, locally sourced Alphonso mango pulp is added at a later stage that adds an aromatic kick and instant recall of the fruit’s character. Sweetness is adjusted, not with sugar, but with unfermented fruit juice. 

I recently visited the cidery with a collective of bar and beverage professionals from Delhi NCR. The facility has ample space to grow, which holds a promise for the future. With their plans to capture the major North Indian markets, Siqera will soon be seen in Delhi NCR, and Chandigarh. And not just that, they have two new variants brewing already! With such growth plans for the brand comes the task of strengthening the mark of Siqera in the consumers’ minds. It’ll take a ton of experimenting with the consumers, educating, and constant visibility before they befriend the drink, for which the team seem prepared.

CIDER – A HEALTHY OPTION?

One aspect that helps the brand from the get-go is the drink’s nutritional values. Despite a high 9% alcoholic content, cider is considered healthier than beer as it doesn’t leave one with a beer-belly, and dangerous higher cholesterol levels. In fact, the Chinese drink ciders alongside their meals for its digestive properties. They’re naturally rich in anthocyanins, polyphenols, nutrients, minerals, and antioxidants, naturally benefiting the human body when consumed in moderation.

Both the variants are amicable and instantly recognisable. Though I prefer the mango cider over the apple one, it can be only drunk as much before its sweetness gets a tad overwhelming. No matter which one you may pick, you’re definitely in for a treat. 

 
Visit to Siqera Cidery

CIDER’S FUTURE IN INDIA

With even the Indian beer giant, Kingfisher, once eyeing the category and even launching its own cider brand in the UK in 2016 (but failing it to bring it to India), there’s definitely a promise the category holds. Failed attempts by other local cider brands alongside those imported like Sheppy and Magners exposed the shortcomings that were imperative for a new brand to understand should they wished to succeed. Be it the purity of flavour, attractive packaging, a brand name with a historic connect, the price point (for the international brands), story-telling, or just the emotional connect, there was always a link felt to be missing. Siqera seems to have done their homework well, and the trio looks locked in for a promising future. I’m all in for the homegrown wave. So next time you see a pint or are crossing Manesar do give it a try. You’ll be happily surprised, or even more so, stand transformed.  

 

First published on Sommelier India Wine Magazine in April 2020

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Indian Wines – A Decade Later

Name a country that’s far off the grape belt, the home of the scorching sun, and has a commercial winemaking history of, say, three decade, and is still winning accolades. That’s India. Our winemaking has grown from a toddler, and reached its adolescence. If it has transitioned as well is the question one asks.

Earlier in March, before the COVID-19 pandemic erupted, I visited Nashik to learn what has changed over the past decade. At my first visit in 2009, the valley was busier than it’s today, and there were hopes and promises all around. The lure of subsidies was at the forefront of such energy and influx. And now, in 2020, the scenes were much different. The crowd has filtered off and only those with a stronger plan, intent, and product remain.

In the last decade, Indian wines have grown systematically at 33% per annum in India. Consumers are constantly educating themselves, professionals are better equipped, and producers are eying international benchmarks. How’s that happening? Here’s what I learnt in the valley:

INDIAN WINE TOURISM

This is the most impressive development over the decade. 

Back in 2009, the valley wasn’t a destination, rather there were commercial production setups. We barely encountered roads then. Our car was often stuck in swamps, and we walked to the wineries through slush. Some even poured us tank samples from whisky nips. Accommodation facilities or restaurants at wineries were unheard of. There was barely any motivation for consumers to visit them.

Now, in 2020, every winery has something to offer. Sula has championed their hospitality offerings. Their posh resorts, guided winery visits and tastings, a romantic balcony overlooking their plush vineyards, two restaurants, an amphitheatre, and much more has become a formidable destination. Vallonne Vineyards’s restaurant, Malaka Spice, is a well established address and their accommodation facility is highly admired. Grover Zampa is reinventing their space and coming up with an expansive hospitality wing. Soma and York Vineyards have amazing local restaurants too.

Sula claims 3-4 lac visitors at their cellar-doors each year, claiming about 3-4% of their total sales from their 1 million cases. We noticed local residents sipping wines at York’s tasting room till as late as 1030PM, much like at any other bar in the city. They sell 6-8% of their volumes at the winery itself. And Vallonne leads this trend with a whooping 45% sales on-site. The general consensus is that a winery without hospitality offerings will miss the boat.

Shailendra Pai, owner of Vallonne Vineyards, stresses that in the times to come they’d aim for over 60% of the sales to be drawn from their winery itself. It’s here that the true expression of wines is understood. Now, that’s a peek into how important an aspect it has become. And all that in a decade. 

RESEARCH AND REFORM

This was an on-going process which is finally bearing fruit.

In my talks with winemakers and producers a few years ago, they stressed on their constant need to educate the farmers. In Nashik, most wineries operate on contract-buying systems. Which means that the farmers take key viticultural decisions. They are a tad hesitant in trying new techniques and replacing varieties at times. We also noticed the brigade of young, and internationally-experienced winemakers on the scenes. They bring a vivacious vibes to the winemaking ideology and carry a global quality benchmark to aspire for.

Karan Vasani, Chief Winemaker at Sula Vineyards, shared that only 6% of the valley grows grapes for winemaking, and the rest is for table grape production. There’s a big difference in how two are grown and handled. For instance, it’s considered ideal to pump in tonnes of water for table grapes, while winemaking grapes require stress. He mentioned that this year Sula has induced water stress by 40% and the outcome is mighty promising. Further, table grapes are wrapped with newspapers while still on the vines, protecting them from excessive sunlight. Winemaking grapes, on the other hand, benefit from added sunlight. Introducing farmers with even such basic techniques often poses a monstrous challenge. However, the change is being noticed. And Karan is optimistic about this being visible in the 2020 vintage. 

Vallonne Vineyards has also changed their rootstocks, and altered the entire design of their vineyards. From the initial North-South orientation, they’ve moved to East-West, for better wind exposure. This has yielded in optimum disease management and general hygiene of crops. Owing to this, they do not spray any chemicals 2-3 months before harvests, resulting in healthier crop, vines, and neater wines.

Sanket Gawand, Winemaker at Vallonne, has gone a step ahead. In the valley, farmers burn their dried hay, husks, and canes, just before grape harvests. This is believed to induce some element of smoke in the resultant wines. We call this unwarranted aroma the Nashik Taint. He experimented with washing the grapes before crushing last season and the wines tasted much cleaner and sans the off-putting taint. A smaller operation like Vallonne can definitely adopt such practices. 

Yatin Patil of Reveilo Wines shares that viticulturists have established a better relationship with their vines now. They aim at maintaining a lower pH of under 3.6. Otherwise, vines tend to get tired. Especially, since in India’s tropical conditions there is no winter dormancy anyway. Which means vines keep working throughout their lives, yielding tired produce. They’ve also turned 100% vegan since their 2017 vintage. 

Kailash Gurnani, Winemaker at York Vineyards, has introduced micro-oxygenation in the winery. He is also planning on moving on to a different style of making rose sparkling wines. 

Grover Zampa is the first to import and start using concrete tanks, concrete eggs, foudres, and Georgian amphoras. These are techniques that alter the wine’s conditioning as compared to the usual stainless steel tanks and oak barrels.

VARIETAL PROMISES ON INDIAN SOILS

While Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chenin Blanc, and Sauvignon Blanc have always been the workhorses of the industry, there’s a constant lookout for the next big thing. Viognier had shown promise, so did Zinfandel, Sangiovese, and Tempranillo. They’ve firmly placed themselves as classics here. Malbec has failed due to the prevalent leafroll virus. Merlot has always been there but never crossed the borders of marginal quality. 

There’s so much more that the Indian soil is now accommodating though. Reveilo has always taken pride in their Grillo, and Nero d’Avola. Gewürztraminer is on the rise, especially after Fratelli Vineyards Vitae TRE where it paired with Muller Thurgau, and Chenin Blanc, and now Sula also experimenting with it. Grenache has made quite a remarkable progress and Sula has a commendable rose with it, and Grover Zampa has considerable plantings too. Mourvedre plantings are suggesting GSM Blends will be seen soon. 

The one grape to look out from the Indian turf now is Riesling. There are at least three definitive producers in the valley including Sula and Vallonne Vineyards. Mr. Pai stresses that Riesling is a notorious variety and acts pricey, demanding personalised attention, and commissioning smaller production. It’ll be a while before we see it taking a considerable share in the vineyards and in the markets. Albeit that, whatever little is there, is definitely praiseworthy. Sula adopted a tad off-dry avatar while Vallonne is dry, asture, and austere. 

Chardonnays are cashing in popularity. With Sula, Grover Zampa, and Reveilo producing oak-oriented, reserve-styled Chardonnays, and York crafting its first single-vineyard rendition, they have to be the biggest gainers in the last half-a-decade. Fratelli Wines in Akluj also had their run with a fantastic barrel fermented Chardonnay, which unfortunately is now defunct. Chardonnay, I believe, will be the biggest head turner in the near future, with reserve styled Cabernets, Shiraz, and Sangiovese in the reds.

Wineries are also more confident with trying newer styles. Be it Vallonne Vineyards’s Vin de Passerillage Chenin Blanc, or Sula trying appassimento with their Shiraz and Tempranillo, their semi-sweet and funky Sparkling Shiraz, or Grover Zampa’s barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. Also, the term Cremant de Nashik was boldly seen on Sula’s sparkling wines, a brave statement at an emerging trend

Happy Endings

VALUE FOR MONEY – INDIAN WINES REIGN

Winemaking has changed over the years. There’s more serious produce, that’s much neater and technically structured, studies and researches of years are now yielding results, and the infrastructure is commendable. The base quality of wines in India have noticed an exponential growth. 

One of the key factors is the radical change in consumers’ attitude. They’re always educating themselves, they’re more critical of what they drink, thus shifting the onus of crafting qualitative and character-driven wines back on the producers. Kailash Gurnani and Shailendra Pai concur that winemakers are taking their craft more seriously now than a decade ago. There’s a better understanding of their vines, weather patterns, soils, and, with time, that of the market. The sheer idea of having invested over a dozen vintages by nearly every producer now, and refining their produce on the way, shows that in the liquid. A consumer who’s still drinking the base-level wine is assured of receiving a much higher quality proposition in the bottle. There’s definitely more satiety. And as the base quality grows, it shows in premium wines too. And India earning medals and accolades at international shows, competitions, and challenges is a testament of this progress.

WHAT ARE WE SAYING

After this visit, I’m a convert and a firm advocate of Indian wines. There’s no aspect that hasn’t progressed and flourished. Be it viticulture, winemaking, picking the right varieties, experimentations, hospitality, or the confidence in the valley, India in its 25-30 years of history has taken a giant leap. And there’s a gigantic promise in its future. There’s no reason why not to see Indian wines with the same regard as that of any other country. And what a destination it has converted into. With families visiting in groups early in the day, and sipping and lazing at the cellar-doors till dawn, visiting a winery is a must-do for anyone visiting Nashik. As Michelin guide says, that if an experience deserves a special trip, it’s worth a three-star rating, I reckon Nashik is a deserving contender for a star as well.

 

First published in Sommelier India Wine Magazine in June, 2020

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Fizz Fascination

What’s common between Indian cricket team lifting the World Cup, Obama winning the presidential elections, midnight of the New Year’s Eve, and your wedding banquet? The celebrations, that are quite ceremonially, marked with breaking open and showering the fizz from those big fat bottles of bubbly. There’s something mesmerising in uncorking these bottles and releasing the bubbles. They demand, and duly deserve, bringing out your fanciest crystals you very meticulously wrapped and stored at the back of your shelves. Admiring the slow-rising tiny bubbles emerging magically from the base of the bowl, lazily reaching the top and dissipating, seeming to celebrate their redemption, are somewhat spell-bounding. They stay till you let them, but better ones land on your palate soon, creating a somewhat electrifying sensation and a refreshing yummy mouthful. Their biting crispness and delicate flavours makes you return to your glass and draw another sip, almost effortlessly. And soon before you know, you’re in your happy place: not blitzed yet, but pleasantly buzzed, and feel bubbly.

There’s not much one can think of that can top a warm welcome with a chilled aperitif of Sparkling wine, especially in summers. Much like our Saturday shenanigans spilling over our Sunday brunches, Indian summers spill over on to the festival season that follows. Beating the summer heat, and complimenting the revelries of these festivities, is best satisfied with pours of almost-freezing bubblies. This is the most-suited season to pop-open those’ve been sleeping in your cellars waiting for an apt occasion. But what can be a better occasion in itself than opening and sharing one without a reason?

So, what are sparkling wines? In a geek-speak, these are regular still wines to which fizz is added through various processes, producing from something as serious and royale as Champagne to something resembling your club sodas. Most commonly, fizz is incorporated to these still wines by introducing additional mix of sugar and yeast and incorporating another level of fermentation, but this time capturing the fix and letting it dissolve in the liquid. While for some wines, this process, quite exhaustingly, transpires in sturdy glass bottles, like for Champagnes and Cavas, some prefer to keep it simple by letting it occur in large steel tanks, like Prosecco and most New World sparkling. End result is these fancy bubbles that can put a cheery smile on any dull face.

During the First World War, Sir Winston Churchill addressed the British Royal Army, saying, “Remember gentlemen, it’s not just France we are fighting for, it’s Champagne!”. Almost synonyms to sparkling wines for any novice vino, Champagne is not only wine, they are a phenomenon and an ambassador of good times. Sitting with a magnificent grandeur at the pinnacle of the sparkling wine pyramid is this French royalty. Produced not far from Paris, they are one of the most protected terms, not only in the wine world but otherwise too. They hail only from these steep, white-earthed hills of Champagne, and are produced exclusively using three grapes – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. Vintage Champagnes are produce of a single year and are more sort-after and expensive than their counterpart Non-Vintage Champagnes. However, there’s a league of Champagnes that demand the highest cheques, called Prestige Cuvee. These are the best crafted, and the most prestigious blend of the house produced only in the best years and are generally available in only a limited supply, making it even more desired. One of my all time favourite Champagne house, Pol Roger, have their Prestige Cuvee named after Sir Winston Churchill, while Moet & Chandon have dedicated theirs to the man titled the father of sparkling wines, Dom Perignon. However, these wines are best reserved for finest palates and men with the deepest pockets. Champagnes like Laurent Perrier, Gonet, Billecart Salmon, and Krug, can make your evening worth a memory.

The Spaniards did battle with the French in the Early 1700 to retain their political supremacy over Europe, but finally did come together to form and ally against the British army. Soon, following the French, the Spaniard also created their royal bubbly, interestingly called Champagne! However, protecting their most prestigious wine’s repute, the French summoned the Spaniards to alter the name, finally calling it Cava. They’re namesake of Champagnes, produced with local varietals – Parellada, Macabeo, and Xarel-lo, with almost similar outcome. Cavas, having similar standing as Champagne, are generally amicable to approach. Great with seafood, light dishes, and tapas, after all it’s Spanish! Frexinet, and Jose Raventos are two Cavas worth trying and are not too heavy on your pockets too.

For something simpler and approachable, turn towards Italy and their two light-hearted sparklings – Asti and Prosecco. Asti are sweet semi-sparkling wines, locally called frizzante, made fromMoscato grape and can be addictively delectable. They can be off-dry and fruity, or can be sweet and aromatic with a dollop of natural sugar left unfermented. They can make a nice fizzy dessert wine and pair well with caramel and dairy-based dishes. Proseccos are a little more serious and are usually dry yet playful. Deciphering them is not a task, making them easily-approachable, and highly demanded. They’re outright simple and have easily-identifiable fruit-flavours. They make a good all-meal-long wines for those who enjoy sitting their food and wines together without over-thinking about their relation. San Simone, Carpene-Malvolti, Zardetto, and Bottega Gold Proseccos rate highly on my list.

And finally, the most-affordable tier of bubblies that allow scope for experimenting without burning a hole in your pockets. New World countries have been following the lead of Champagnes, Cavas, Proseccos, and traditional sparkling wines, for long and have finally arrived with an array of sparklings of their own. They are not only discerning on the palate, but are quite a keeper. In India, Australians lead this category, but soon catching up is the South African’s. They are no-nonsense, non-frilly, straight-forward, fruit-lead wines with a personal touch of their own local twist. Lindeman’s and Jacobs Creek sparkling wines are an easy-spot in most wine stores and are definite must-haves. India isn’t falling behind no more. Zampa’s Soiree and Sula’s Sparklings are an easy first step for most vinos entering the sparkling wine connoisseurship. They are good value-for-money picks. This year, more well-reputed Indian houses will be joining the sparkling winemakers’ club, and we’re anxiously waiting for their release.

With the fizz and the pressure-packed within, sparkling wines are a good proposition for cellaring. They have the ability to live for a decade, especially Champagnes and Cavas, but other sparkling wines are best bought and consumed young. Don’t forget to serve them chilled, and remember to hold the cork tightly, those notorious ones can bombard and hurt, seriously. We believe the best way to open a bottle of bubbly is by ‘Sabring’, with a sword or a heavy knife, just like the kings and royal men did in the courts and battle grounds upon victory. Look up for a video online and you’ll easily be hooked to trying it out yourself.

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Summertime Mixes

If I were writing this article same time last year, just before the summers were to set in, I would’ve refrained from penning it. Beers and GinTo (Gin & Tonic) were the survival drinks for the summers. Last year seemed to have altered that perception that though, it’s been quite the year of mixed drinks and cocktails, I don’t remember the last time a straight drink took preference over a cocktail on my list, minus wines of course. And it seems they will remain the preferred elixir even for these summers. 

With rising mercury, not only do we wish to stick to our AC-ed rooms, but also yell for a thirst-quenching, refreshing drink from time to time. And, to top it all up, in that frustrating heat that leaves you lethargic, mixology, no matter how much you may adore it, will be a bother in even the best of mood and settings. Delhi heat can do that to you. Having said that, this is the year of beating the blazing sun by teasing it with some really edgy and funky cocktails. Before I give you some recipes, here are my easy mantras to help you make your cocktails more summer-friendly; something to show-off your mixing flair as you stay cool in the heat for this season:

Fruity Freshness – Why use them tetra-packed, sugary juices when the summer brings you the most alluring flavours of fresh fruits. Watermelon, lychee, pineapple, strawberry, mango, plum, peach, you name it. It’s the season to live on these light and cool fruits. This time, don’t only eat them, drink them too. They not only bring pulpy nourishment to the drink but also add dollops of ever-required goodness, making the drink a relishing treat.

Citrus Tang– Only second to a glass of ice-cold water, citrus provides the refreshing lift much needed to kick out the monstrosity of the heat.  Orange, sweet lime, mandarin, cherries and berries, whatever you may get your hands on, use them, and in abundance. They’re also an intelligent way of reviving your body’s lost nutrients and recharging it while you were busy combating dehydration.

Sweet and Sour – Ever wondered why energy drinks are mostly available in Lemon ‘n’ Lime flavours? They are the only component that bring balance and power to any drink and make it refreshing, using the principle of tart, sour, and sweet; AKA, the Sour Mix. Make sure, this summer, no cocktail on your list is offered without this magic ingredient.

Make Them Bubbly – Only ingredient that can lift up any drink without working too hard are the bubbles. Soda, ginger ale/beer, lemonade, tonic water, Champagne, or Prosecco, keep them handy this summer. Substitute commercial lemonade for its homemade avatar, you make it better!! If you wish to be tad playful, try limeade instead, you’ll be surprised.

The Green Power – Blue may be the most soothing colour for the summers but green is the new blue for cocktails this season. They not only make the drinks look attractive, but also pack an element of calm to the funk added by the spirits, and leave your palate tickled. Mint leaves, lime peel, kaffir lime, basil, cucumber, cilantro, or even green apple, muddle, jerk, or slap them and just drop them in to the next glass you pick.

Go White – They are easy to mix and easier to drink. Play with these lighter spirits. They are delicate and less egoistic; mixing them is easier from their coloured counterpart and that provides an edge to them at the pool parties. Move ahead of the regulars (Vodka, Gin, Rum, Tequila) and try your hand at Pisco, Cachaca, Cointreau, and others.

Tanned Spirit– Once you go tanned, it’s hard to undo it, and same applies to the spirits. I swear by my Whisky Sour and it at times supersedes the GinTo fixation. Dark Rum, Whiskey, and Tequila provide the backbone to any desi liquor cabinet and cocktail scene. Then why play safe and miss all the fun? Move to sweeter and softer American whiskies and let the caramelised rums replace the cloying sugar syrup. They can be smooth, soothing, and at times soul-touching. 

Gentle Florals – A simple St. Germain and soda mix, or a recently tried Zwack and fizzy rosewater drink, can bring solace to the dehydrating palate in this burning summer. When in doubt, keep floral elements and liqueurs on the front line. Elderflower, Rose, Jasmine flavours are a must haves.

Condiments and Herbs – They have something too alluring to resist. Vanilla, nutmeg, and hazelnut, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, thyme, sage, rosemary, and many more such ingredients add a ‘Wow’ factor to the mix and satisfy a guilty side of our spice-loving desi palate. Macerate them while preparing sugar syrup to make a unique ingredient for this summer. Must-haves for my summer list this year is cinnamon syrup, vanilla syrup, ginger syrup. Flaunt them in your cocktails and substitute the boring sugar syrup for something quite interesting if used well. Some interesting pairings are Mango-Cilantro, Raspberry-Thyme, Watermelon-Mint, Plum-Sage, and Apple-Ginger.

Stay Oxidised – While the burning heat and dehydration can leave your body tad parched, antioxidants can be your saviours. The apple Mojitos, Martinis, and Caprioska are a good way to stay energised, why not turn to the daily teas to bring some aid too. Try some floral and aromatic teas to create the magic, without much of a mess. They are the kindest form of stimulants and antioxidants; and when brought to the mix, they provide an element of tannin and structure to the drink. Make them in large batches and store refrigerated; you never know when the party may begin!

The only key to learn which cocktail may strike the chord for you this summer is experimentation. However, here are some classy ones to begin with and set you to explore hereafter. They’ve been picked from our own mixing sessions and at my two favourite bars in Delhi – PCO in Vasant Vihar, and Ricks at the Taj Mahal Hotel:

THE MUSE

  • Gin: 40 ml
  • Lime Juice: 10 ml
  • Sugar Syrup: 10 ml
  • Homemade wine vinegar: Dash
  • Ginger Ale: Top Up
  • Garnish: Cinnamon Dust

My dear friend, Pankaj Balachandran, allured me with this drink upon my first visit this season to his bar, Ricks, at the Taj Mahal Hotel, Delhi. A simple mix of easy-to-get ingredients that concoct together to create an outstanding, all-evening sipping cocktail. The spice from the ginger and the wine vinegar balances the sweetness of the ale and the sugar syrup to let the gin mesmerise you. 

ELDERFLOWER AND CUCUMBER SWIZZLE

  • Gin/ vodka : 60 ml 
  • Elderflower syrup (St. Germain or Monin): 10 ml 
  • Lime juice: 15 ml 
  • Lychee juice: 25 ml 
  • Cucumber slices : 4-5
  • Soda to top 

In a shaker add the first 4 ingredients with ice. Shake and pour into a wine glass.  Fill with cube ice and top with soda. Adjust sweetness to taste. With the help of a potato peeler cut long slivers of cucumber. Twist them gently and place over the ice. Add straws and serve. The sweetness of exotic lychee juice, blended with the floral lifts of elderflower syrup, backed by Gin’s spice and herbaceous grip, and the coolness contributed by the cucumber, this cocktail is hard to not get addicted to. A newbie at PCO’s menu, and there to stay, especially reputed amongst the fine ladies. 

AMERICAN SAMURAI

Our love for green tea and Jack Daniels brought us face-off to this amazingly delectable mix.

  • Jack Daniels – 60 ml
  • Freshly Cooled tannic Green Tea  liquid – 100ml
  • Lime juice – 10 ml
  • Sugar Syrup – 30 ml

Brew a pot of green tea strong enough to bring out the tannins, without making it too bitter or losing its acidity. Cool it and let it rest. In a rocks glass filled with ice, pour Jack Daniels, lime juice and sugar and mix, and pour a good measure of green tea liquid. The tannins of the tea grips the sweetness of the whiskey and the lime juice-sugar blend adds balance to the concoction, making it a soothing and playful summer sipper. 

SAOCO

We love our rums and this one is a must have on a hot day by the beach or by the pool. A day time drink to overcome the worst hangover.

Take a nice and big tender coconut and carefully cut from the top. Drink some of the coconut water and replace it with the same amount of Rum and some ice to chill it further. Add 10 to 15 ml of sugar syrup to balance the mineral content of the tender coconut water. Garnish with a flower and a long straw. Best enjoyed lying flat on a hammock and with shades on. 

THE MINT JULEP

Romantically mistaken with the Mojito which is a Cuban drink, the Mint Julep is a drink over 100 years old when fans and air-conditioners were merely concepts even in the U.S. 

  • Jim Beam: 50 ml
  • Castor Sugar: 2 spoons and can be varied upon how sweet you like it. 
  • Mint leaves: 12-16.

Traditionally, silver plated metal glasses were used to present the drink in. Fill it with cracked ice and start pounding with the help of a spoon. Mix the whiskey and sugar and release the aroma of the mint leaves. This will also ensure adequate dilution to soften the whiskey and make it ever more so delicious.  Make a bunch of 3-4 mint sprigs and plant it on the crushed ice. Place two straws right behind the mint so that with every sip you draw, the enchanting flavours and aromas of the mint mesmerise your mood.

THE DARJEELING EXPRESS

India being known for its tea supply to the world was the ideal choice for this punch style drink. This recipe makes at least 20-30 drinks in one go and is a fun thing to have at parties where you would much rather lay back and enjoy as opposed to making drinks. It is an alcoholic ice tea of sorts, and is designed to chill you out from the get go. 

Throw half a bowl worth of ice in a big bowl or pitcher. Cut fresh whole oranges and lemons into halves and place it in the bowl. Sprinkle some cinnamon sticks (4), cloves (10) and star anise (6) and start pouring in the following:

  • Gold rum : 1 bottle 
  • Light Rum: 500 ml 
  • Gin: 500 ml 
  • Lime juice :  300 ml 
  • Sugar syrup : 350 ml 
  • Earl grey and darjeeling tea liquid: 1.5 litres

Decorate the Punch bowl with a few more things like flowers or spices and place a big ladle alongside. Place 20 glasses with some ice and a few slices of oranges and spice in each glass. Enjoy the site of guests pouring out their own drink into the glasses. With this dangerously delicious concoction, you just may want to keep an extra batch on standby.

How to make the components:

Sugar syrup: add 2 kgs of sugar to 1 ltr of water and simmer over a low flame till all the sugar dissolves

Earl grey and Darjeeling tea Liquid:

Dip 4 Twinnings earl grey tea and 5 Darjeeling tea bags into1.5 litres of hot water for 6 minutes with some spices blended in. This can be kept in the fridge for 2-3 days. 

BUDAPEST WHISKY SOUR

I can’t have my summer start without a twist on Whisky Sour, but this one is without the egg white. Niki at Boutiq’ Bar fixed this twist, bringing sweet, sour, spice, and smoke together in a glass.

  • Laphroaig Quarter Cask – 60 ml
  • Lemon Juice – 30 ml
  • Cinnamon Syrup – 30 ml
  • Peychaud Bitters – 3 Dashes
  • Ginger Root 

Gently muddle some ginger root in a shaker. Add whisky, freshly squeezed lemon juice, Cinnamon syrup, and ice to the shaker and mix. Double strain it in a rocks glass filled with ice. Place a slice of ginger root on the cocktail for garnish and Peychaud bitter to finish. It is no short of summer in a glass.

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Easy Wine Guide – Sauvignon Blanc

Gear up; the summers this year will be villainous. The heat will blaze through those thick bedroom windows, steep in to your AC-ed office cabin, make your day-long roadside-parked car burn like an oven, and imagine driving it back home after a long day. In such heat, what can deliver solace to your parched throat and is a chilled glass of refreshing wine. Push away those oaky whites and transport the tannic reds to the cellars. It’s the most definite season for Sauvignon Blanc.

LET’S TALK SAUVIGNON BLANC

Sauvignon Blanc is an aromatic variety making wines with euphoric aromas of asparagus, lime zest, green apple skin, gooseberries, capsicum, eucalyptus, and white pepper, and provides tongue-tingling pungency and thrillingly refreshing spark with a charmingly structured light body, making it an easy-sipping aperitif. Oak doesn’t really make best pals with it. It can hinder its vivacious vibrancy, however, some brave-hearted winemakers do let their skills rule and have them sit in the same bottle. Its mouth-watering under-ripe acidity, minerally mouthfeel, feather-light body, and eye-twitching green and citrus notes also make it the ‘perfect aperitif’. And when moving to the dinner table, just go ahead and pair it with anything on the menu. Such is its versatility with gastronomic dishes that it almost a celestial matrimony.

OLD VS NEW SAUVIGNON BLANC

However, the jury is split on this decades-old debate about the likability of the varietal itself. Some find it linear, one-dimensional, and somewhat repetitive in its taste and wine-style (like my foreman does). The others adore it for the same reason, how it’s constantly identical and for some, a safe bet in what can be expected every time your pick one from the shelf. What is also admirable is the grape’s ability to dominate, arm-twist, and challenge the winemaker’s skills and flair to put it in its best frame. It is a tough one to grow and tougher to produce.

WHERE DID IT COME FROM?

Foggy beliefs of its origin marking somewhere between Loire Valley and South-West France cannot be denied. Although, its guardians did their best to promote the varietal, however, their legislations usually bar them from mentioning the varietal’s name on the label. Given the already established dominance of Burgundian whites, it receives a major competition. It also led to its snail-speed growth in its repertoire in the European markets then. Although delayed yet, quite dominantly then, Sancerre and Pouilly Fumè emerged as the synonyms of scrupulously made Sauvignons. Bordeaux’s version is mostly blended with Semillon, and telling the varietal one from lot is inconceivable. Given the French winemaking philosophy of marrying various grapes to produce a blended wine, single varietal Sauvignon Blanc had to work extra hard to carve its niche. 

SAUVIGNON BLANC ACROSS THE WORLD

And while the French were busy sorting the labelling ambiguities, its second home was under-construction in New Zealand’s Southern Island. In my belief, it is here, in Marlborough, that its true references can be found – clean, sturdy, greens aromatics, varietal, purely refreshing, and, at times, soul-touching. Amongst other styles, the proficient Australian version from the Adelaide Hills, and the Californian simulation of the oak-kissed, smoky Pouilly Fumè, here christened, quite unintelligently, Fumè Blanc, have gained an international acceptance over-time.

Having said that, the most noticeable and key emerging style hails from South African Western Cape region. Finally, although by no measure the least, the adolescence-stuck Indian Sauvignon Blanc are finally maturing in stature, making their mark locally. The boredom of generally off-dry Chenin Blanc and over-oaked Chardonnay is now finding relief in the purity and freshness of Sauvignon Blanc. Our desi Sauvignon Blancs are now being appreciated globally, impressing not only by the consumers but also by the jury at international wine competitions and awards. 

LET’S TASTE

I’m a Sauvignon Blanc lover and I will stick to it this time the heat wave tries to splatter me with its monstrosity. Next time you’re parched and are looking for a thirst-quencher, try some of these wines. Last word of caution, serve them only one way – extra chilled.

2012 Henri Bourgeois Pouilly Fumè, Loire Valley, FRANCE

INR3620 – The Cellar, DLF Emporio, Delhi

A great wine, with matured old-school charm. If you’re seeking a change from its alter-ego, New World style, this is the one to start your Loire Valley learning from. Classically stylish wine with notes of under-ripe white fruits, chalky minerality, hint smoky edges from the dusty oak contact, and a ripe lime citrus tang. Tend with caution, it is addictive, and can leave the pockets empty if indulgence takes over. Serve it with cold cuts, (raw) seafood and white fish preparations, and garden salads with cheese shavings. It can age and turn in to a complex beauty deserving a special occasion.

2013 Saint Clair, Marlborough, NEW ZEALAND 

INR3415 – Godrej Natures Basket, Mumbai. Also, www.thewinekart.com

Saint Clair’s is a good example to set a benchmark for the New Zealand’s Sauvignon Blanc template. A good mix of playfulness from the zippy acidity and white floral notes and well-supported seriousness of under-ripe gooseberries and green bell pepper, finishing on a crisp and well rounded note. It ticks all boxes for a good wine but itself, and will be tad unreal to not like. Can’t go wrong in pairing it with oysters, shellfish, and lime and coriander dressed prawns. Also try it with soft and semi-hard cheeses.

2013 Sileni, Marlborough, NEW ZEALAND

INR2343 – Godrej Natures Basket, Mumbai 
Rarely the Indian shelves see a value-for-money New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, they are made to be expensive. Sileni is a must-have, not only for its quaff-ability, but also affordability.  Amongst the easy-drinking tipples, it allures by concocting pulpy fruity notes of pear, guava, and ripe peaches with herbaceous and grassy touches and generous acidity, finishing on a floral-lifted note, thus filling the spectrum of flavours and finer nuances. It pairs exceptionally well with stir-fried vegetables, Thai green curry, spaghetti Aglio-e-Olio Peperoncino, and cold cuts.

2013 MAN Vintners, Western Cape, SOUTH AFRICA (Good Food Star)

INR1875 – Reliance Mart, Mumbai.
Africans find pride in their Chenin Blanc, but this one breaks this orthodox notion. Loaded with heaps of gently extracted green notes of under-ripe gooseberries, asparagus, spicy white pepper, soft eucalyptus, and a crunchy hint of grainy chalky minerality. The acidity does the trick but binding it all together and lifting the wine to an admirable stature. It’s the one that doesn’t make you work too hard to fall in for it. A perfect sushi wine, also can try with Indian vegetarian and cream-based curries. 

2013 Fratelli Vineyard, Akluj, INDIA

INR620, Delhi and INR670, Mumbai – Leading retail stores
Probably the only consistent and eminently famed Indian Sauvignon Blanc worth betting your money on. Biting tang complimented by the aromatics of sweet lime, pear, lime zest, honey dew melon, and white asparagus. Hints of tomato shrubs also add an element of complexity to this rather approachable drop. A beautifully crafted Indian gem that brings value-for-money as an added advantage to its offering. Cold cuts, creamy pasta dishes, grilled chicken dishes, and perfect match for asparagus risotto.

2012 d’Arenberg Broken Fishplate, Adelaide Hills, AUSTRALIA

INR2820 – The Cellar, DLF Emporio, Delhi
An Iconic winery that represents the true spirit of Australia in every wine it produces. Intelligent story-telling is the foremost attraction, but the wine leaves no stone unturned in living up to the excitement built from it. A well-balanced, gracious, and harmonious wine with a masculine structure and medium body that makes it a preferred choice to pair with your gastronomic treats. Trust its name and pair it with a pan-seared Sea Bass, or a steamed Basa. It also works well with sizzling Gambas of green vegetables, olives, and garlic. 

2013 Santa Rita 120 Sauvignon Blanc, Central Valley, CHILE

INR 1674 – Juben Wines, Mumbai
My recent favourite amongst the Chilean brigade. Said to be the biggest producer of Sauvignons in the world, Chile has some really discerning drops to suit every palate and pocket. This is the pick from the ‘energise me, impress me’ section and is quite a delectable vinous indulgence. Smartly-made, well-balanced and rounded wine, a must have for your selection this summer. Salted goat cheese tart, tomato basil and bocconcini salad, and potato gnocchi. 

2012 KRSMA Sauvignon Blanc, Bengaluru, INDIA

INR 750 – Madhuloka Wines, Bengaluru 
Recently launched wines that are setting a definitive fine wine trend in the Southern markets. KRSMA is an impressive addition to the India wine offering. The aromatic nosing provides a great start with some pear drops and mint toffee notes. The acidity is rife, juicy too, but never green or aggressive. It is filled with the varietal character and structure of a well-made New World Sauvignon Blanc, and with some ageing and aeration, it opens up to be more than just a well-made wine. A good pairing with the southern-style, curry-leaves-tempered gravy, chicken Malabar, and surprisingly enough, Shahi Paneer.

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Tokay – Divine Confection

It is truly the nectar of Gods. Louis XV said of this sweet wine ‘Vinum Regum et Rex Vinorum’, meaning ‘the wine of kings and the king of wines’. In reverence of its cultural prominence, it even finds mention in the national anthem. Such is the stature of these Hungarian wines of Tokaj Hegyalja. By a royal decree in 1737, it became world’s first officially delimited wine classification system, and in 2002 UNESCO gave these vineyards the title of a heritage site. The sweet drops of this area, Tokay wines a.k.a. Tokaji, have kept the wine enthusiasts and serious wine connoisseurs spellbound with their notoriously mystifying nuances and elegance.

Tokay is known for its dessert wines produced by specially affected grapes. The local varieties, Furmint and Hàrslevelü are easily susceptible to a fungus that flourishes in special conditions – Botrytis Cinerea, or simply, Noble Rot. It punctures the grapes, making an opening for the sun to evaporate the water, and magically thickening the sugar and concentrating the zippy acidity essential for the balance of resultant wines. Thanks to this rot, wines are infused with a layer of delicious fungus and mouldy flavours that may not sound appetising, romantic, or desirable, however are dearly relished. The produce can be dangerously addictive. With over 150 grams of sugar per litre, they are among the sweetest form of wines than the sugar syrup Gulab Jamun and Jalebi swims in. Slurp!!

Amongst these delectable drops exist a wine so rare that you can taste it only once in your entire lifetime. You must be really lucky to even encounter it in the first place. ‘Eszencia’ is the pride of Tokay winemakers. This regal drop is produced by handpicking berries most affected by the generously aggressive botrytis in prime vintages. They’re collected in small vessels and are somewhat forgotten for the next half-a-decade (legally) or longer. These potent berries push themselves to produce drops of nectar so sweet that even the strongest of yeast cannot break down the sugar to produce alcohol. Result is a discerning liquid, with up to 70% residual sugar per litre, lesser than 4% alcohol, scrumptious flavours, luscious texture, and an unfailing appeal. 

In my recent trip to the area, I tasted not one but three. Patricius winery brought me my first eszencia experience, and I was as excited to taste it as a kid’s first visit to a toy megastore. A tasting portion of a few drops was poured from that tiny 250mlbottle holding the liquid gold produced from the 2000 vintage. The snail-like moving elixir for this wine was collected to ferment naturally in small glass containers and further matured for nine long years! It is the reward of patience, and boy did it taste sweet. A souvenir of fifteen years of history, with over 600 grams of concentrated caramel-like sugar, only 2% alcohol, and piquant acidity, the liquid was ambrosial. Scent of white flowers, elderflower, acacia were followed by a layer of sweet white fruits and peach marmalade, apricot jam, cutting through with sweet lime, lime zest, and blood orange acidity, with a long-lingering note of golden sultanas, dark honey, and fig juice. It showed a decade and a half long age too with developing flavours of Hungarian oak, dark chocolate, sweet tobacco, wet leather, and finishing on a clean spicy note of cinnamon, cloves, and warm baking spices. It’s the celestial matrimony of sugar and acid that doesn’t let the palate cloy, rather make it velvety and luscious. With such high sugar, the wine is immortal, however after half a century it can be an indulgence. With a tag of 400 Euros, it’s still a bargain.

Some say it cannot be classified as wine with such low alcoholic strength. I agree, it’s shouldn’t be. It’s an experience, an emotion, a divine seduction, and a soul-touching moment where anything else is redundant.

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Pingus – Spanish Temptation

To be counted amongst the greatest, wines must have inspiring individualism. Be it their display of unique terroir, representation of an artisinal ideal, or simply the belief in one’s own distinctive philosophy, only the best wines carry a message, and it can be deciphered with a single gentle sniff of swirling portion in the glass. One such wine representing the singularity of a craftsman’s gratitude for ancient wines is Dominio de Pingus, hailing from Ribera del Duro in Spain.

It was a celestial conspiracy that brought the Danish oenologist, Peter Sisseck, to Spain on a winemaking project. While searching for the best parcels to plant new vines, he spotted tiny ancient vineyards homing old Tempranillo vines. It quickly transpired in to his dream to showcase the dynamism and charisma of these vines, inspiring him to fabricate his own wines. Peter decided to name them after his childhood nickname – “Pingus”, meaning Penguin. It was still an underground project until Peter decided to showcase his first vintage at the 1995 en primeur of Bordeaux where amongst the gathering of renowned wine critics was America’s most influencal authority, Robert Parker. He announced Pingus as not only the best wine from Spain, but amongst the best in Europe, rating it alike the much-coveted French and Italian wines.

Follwing Parker’s godlike comment, the demand for Pingus grew and this artisanal wine was sold at an astornishing tag of USD250. Little did Peter knew what the future was holding for him. International attention was drawn when the ship carrying 75 cases of Pingus astornishingly disappeared off the shores of North Atlantic Ocean. This not only dramatised the prestige of the wine, but also caused speculations leading to an instant demand hike the world over, rocketing the prices to nearly USD500. From here, Pingus became perhaps the greatest story ever told by a Spanish wine.

With a tiny annual production of only 6500 bottles, moreover, only in the selected vintages, Pingus today is the most-sorted Spanish wines, and enjoys a cult proposition. Today, it bags approximately USD2000 for a bottle and this is still a bargain before it reaches the auctions. One must be lucky enough to enough to spot it, let alone relishing it. In my latest trip to Spain, Dominio de Pingus opened its cellars for a personal visit and I tasted their recent, 2013 vintage. The wine has a deep purple hue with hint of fading rims. Notes of violets, and dark flowers are well backed with ripe and concentraed fruit, creating an aromatic and perfumed appeal with a gentle and complex finish. Alluring silky tannins make the wine amicable and approachable. Structure of the palate is well complimented by gently extracted flavours, eathy, nutty, sweet coconut, and caramelised notes from long oak aging, and underlining thing layer of aged balsamic at the finish. The wine is youthful and yet showing signs of development with notes of aged meat, cedarwood, cigar, olive compote, and milk chocolate. It is an rich and gracious wine that, with its character, created a humbling experience, that inspired me to name it ‘a humble millionare’

There are only some wine that make selecting the right set of words of describe it redundant. They are an experience, a moment to be lived through your senses, where everything else is redundant. Pingus is one of those.

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Vintage Release of Nebbiolo Trio 2014

Since early modern era for wines, three wines have been repeatedly regarded and mentioned as the ‘King of Wines and Wines of the Kings’. These are the romantic and scintillating elixirs of Champagne, the luscious golden wines of Tokay, and the precious ruby-garnet nectars of Barolo. While the first two have numerous mesmerising stories to capture wine aficionados’ fancies, Barolos have always spoken through their quality and finesse. It’s the still-wine ambassador for celebration from the Italian caché. And a wine of such stature and repute deserves celebration by itself.

NEBBIOLO PRIMA

In May every year, a sizeable group of wine critics, writers, and industry professionals gather in the historic and touristic city of Alba to witness and experience the vintage release of these Nebbiolo based wines from Barolo, Barbaresco, and Roero. One of its kind, Nebbiolo Prima is amongst the biggest annual event celebrating the single-varietal wines of the region. This event, spread over five-days, previews these wines before they are launched in markets across the world. 

WINE STYLES

The three wine styles have individual identities, and must be appreciated for the tradition that makes them. Barolos are the man of the house and are boastful of their masculinity attained from the terroir of the region, enhanced by the winemaker’s contribution, and sharpened by the patient maturing over years. Barbarescos are the noble queens who are stern and assertive, yet icons of feminism with their charming eloquence and poise. They are sturdy but delicacy is their key feature. Roeros, the lesser known, are straightforward and expressive, without pretence or false semblance.

When these wines are aged longer than their basic styles, they’re called Riservas. Barolos are aged for a minimum of three years while Barolo Riservas must be matured for at least five. Barbarescos are considered softer and thus are rested for two years only while riservas are four years old when released. Roeros being the early blooming type can be released after year-and-a-half and a year later as riservas. These aging reigns are governed by local laws and stipulate minimum barrel and bottle aging durations for all styles before they can attain the much regarded highest designation in Italian wine quality pyramid: Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita, or simply, DOCG. Barring the principal varietal, the other common fabric that binds these wine styles is the heavy oak accent. All these wines reach their prime with prolonged aging and oak adds structure and finesse to their repertoire. 

This was my second year at the show and we were gathered to review the new vintage releases of Barolo 2010, Barolo Riserva 2008, Barbaresco 2011, Barbaresco Riserva 2009, Roero 2011, and Roero Riserva 2010.

LET’S TASTE

Over five days of Nebbiolo Prima, we blind-tasted over 275 of these rugged wines. Bottles are dressed in a mysterious black sack allowing an unbiased showcase. These vigorous wines are served by profession sommeliers who juggle a flight of five wines each time they serve at your tasting table. 

Being at Nebbiolo Prima is exciting but gruelling too. These unforgiving wines are still in the cradle and kicking like a new born. With every sip a tannin-bomb goes off on your palate, leaving a gum-numbing coma to recover from from the get-go. The thick-skinned and late-maturing Nebbiolo delivers the fruity tannins that are teamed with dusty tannins from prolonged oak aging Battling through these tobacco and wet-wood flavoured tannins to review wines’ quality for their fruit quality requires experience, patience, perseverance, and eye-for-detail. Even upon reaching the true pinnacle of a wine’s character, forecasting the development, destiny, and the future of these adolescent wines is like betting on a new-born’s career success in his 40s. However, the true judge of a vintage’s quality is to taste the wines while they are youthful when age hasn’t taken over. Thus, I see these wines for their showcase of the vintage’s nuances rather than the winemakers’ style and philosophy, and the wines expressed this throughout the five days.

VINTAGE REVIEW

Tasting wines for their vintage analysis is more fun than mere serious education. It displays the play of nature throughout the growing season bestowing the grape with its qualitative characteristics and shortcomings. It then becomes winemaker’s responsibility to harness the best and diminish the flaws through skill and technique. Piedmontese traditionalist winemakers have been long criticised for their oak-heavy winemaking style, obliterating fruit’s character. To this, young modernist winemakers create early-maturing fruit-forward wine styles that emphasise on the vineyard’s nuances than those from the winery.

2010 showcased all attributes of a classic vintage – right expression of fruit with mouthful of delicate and pulpy flavours, concentrated and ripe, balanced with phenolic ripeness of chewy yet amicable skin tannins, held together with a backbone of refreshing acidity. It was the year when the winemakers withdrew their ego and applied soft and little oak to merely support the grape’s vibrancy. It was the year of the modernists, and they were rewarded. Their victory doesn’t imply a traditionalists’ loss. The vintage was a learning for them too and even though oak was there, the intensity was drastically lesser. 2010 Barolos showed terroir and individuality. 

Barbarescos this year were a tad disappointing. Blame it on the vintage or global warming but the 2011 produce showed signs of grapes’ over-ripeness, which translated into the wines’ biting tannins and alcoholic warmth. The year was amongst the longest and driest vintages and the wines were a mirror into vineyard’s conditions. However, early-harvest of the same could definitely yield some complex wines, and Roeros were just that: mystical, enticing, and worth holding a conversation over. Having said that, these are ideal conditions for producing age-worthy Barolos. Another two years and we will learn about that too!

Overall, riservas were perceived as too oaky and redundant as a style. Maybe it needs a facelift and revisiting that passage of time has demanded too. How the tradition-bound producers would solve this dilemma, time will tell.

PHILOSOPHY OVER FRUIT

Each morning’s blind tasting assembly would transpire into two winery visits. This was an interesting interface. Not only do the wineries open their cellars for your taste-test, but it’s where we imbibe their philosophies and gyaan through their produce. Relishing older vintages opens a window to understand single-vineyards’ topography, true nature of past vintages, challenges of the winery, and prevailing trends in the area. This year’s personal favourites were the single vineyard vertical tastings leading up to 1974 at Marchesi di Barolo, comparative display of cold versus warm vintage wines over the past two decades at Michele Chiarlo, and the study of Paolo Scavino’s single vineyard wines and how they have matured over the years.

In this five day fete, numerous wines are uncorked and shared. Upon everyone’s departure, a common emotion remains – respect for their tradition, cultural heritage, and ardour for Nebbiolo. While the region is tightly holding on to its past, the new-age generation is draping the wines styles with modernism and chic allure. Celebration for such a dramatic trio of wine styles is duly admirable And what could be better than lauding it with a toast of 2010 Barolo DOCG. Cin!!

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Vineyard Tales From Piedmont

Think of Italy and one thinks of the genius of Michelangelo, breathtaking Roman architecture, the posh Milan fashion week, mouth-watering cuisine, and its superb wines. The country is filled with touristic pleasures, but for the gastronome, it is not the busy city spots but rather the liquid treasures of the country to cherish. Amongst the most definitive wine destination are the lush vineyards of Piedmont producing almost all possible wine-styles – from the robust reds to fruity whites, dry Spumantes to fizzy sweet drops, and even some aromatised ones.

Piedmont, set in the north-eastern border of the country, literally means ‘at the foot of the mountain’ as it’s dominated by the snow-kissed Alps. With Switzerland to the north and France to its west the region is mostly a cool-climate hilly terrain. It is amongst the biggest production areas in the country and thus offers varied terriors and climates ideal for many different wine styles. The region also has the biggest land under Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) and Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) wines production, the two highest wine designations in the country. There are no Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) wines in Piedmont, (a lesser regarded designation) thus ensuring quality production behind every wine style. Though some commendable white wines are made here, it is the big reds of the region that are firmly holding its reputation. The much-sorted three big B’s of the region – Barolo, Barbaresco, and Barbera – have collectively earned more accolades for the region worldwide than any other wine produced in Italy.  Seafood doesn’t play as big a role in the local cuisine as much as the game and cattle meat, especially veal, and these robust reds marry alongside perfectly well. Truffles are a local speciality in Piedmont and attract lots of tourists for truffle hunting. It is said that truffles and wines rarely grow together: the land bad for wines produces great truffles and vice versa, but when the two come together on the same table it’s a delight to see the harmony of flavours flowing out of the two put together.

The mountains are well planted and have breathtaking views from various turns of the steep mountainous drive. Fiat cars are easily spotted here as Torino, the capital of the region, is their home ground and also a destination for its gourmet food and fine chocolates. The hills provide ambient conditions for the local favourite varieties to flourish to their best. Ample sunlight, free draining soil, and clean melted snow water filled rivers make sure the vines receive all what they want. Asti and Alba are the two important towns here and most of the wines are produced around them. Barbera, Nebbiolo, and Dolcetto are the important varieties to look out for here amongst the reds and Cortese and Moscato for the whites. Some local varieties like Arneis, Erbaluce, Malvasia Nera, and Vespolina, along with the well-known international varieties like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Shiraz are also produced here and are quite a surprise to taste as single varietal wines.

Barolo and Barbaresco, in the southern territory, are the two most important wine styles here and are both Nebbiolo-based. Nebbiolo gets its name from the Piedmontse word ‘nebbia’ meaning fog as the late fog enhances its maturation. It’s the monarch of the red varieties and produces some age-worthy and character-driven wines thus providing both these wines a DOCG designation. Barolo, also known as the king of wines and the wines for the kings, is considered the finest of Italian wines and hence demands a higher premium. They are much robust and concentrated and display the best of their potential with long ageing. All Barolos are a minimum of two and a half years old when released and a majority of this time it sleeps in oak barrels followed by some resting in the bottle. Barolos are marked for their high acidity, tannins, and alcohol. Upon developing it showcases a wide spectrum of developed flavours including dark fruits, spices, mushrooms, leather, earth, and liquorice. The oak adds another element of strength, flavour, complexity, and richness to the wine and makes it round and softer. Barbaresco on the other hand, wittily called the queen of the wines and the wines for the queens, is a much lighter wine style thus easily approachable. As it’s a softer wine, when compared, and requires lesser aging to reach its prime. It may not have the concentration and complexity of a Barolo but its fruit-forward style makes it amongst the most demanded wines from the region. One of the better producers of Barolo is Renato Ratti and that of Barbaresco is Gaja and their wines are a delight to taste.

Moving towards the cold snowy Alps up north we see Nebbiolo shedding off its robust masculine robe and offering more elegant, richer, and stylish wines at Ghemme and Gattinara. As the mountains provide cooler winds and cloud cover over the vineyards the grapes develop slower than in the south thus producing more concentrated, rounder, and rich reds. As the area is lesser known the winemakers work harder to produce equivalent quality and the wines represent the native creativity and individuality of the Italian character. Torraccia Del Piantavigna produces some excellent Ghemme and Gattinara wines representing classy interpretation of the wine style.

Barbera and Dolcetto are another two important wine styles in Piedmont. Good examples of Barbera are found in towns of Asti and Alba and are called Barbera d’Asti and Barbera d’Alba. Wines from Barbera are generally highly expressive and fruity and are best consumed in their youth. Due to high acidity and lighter body they make an apt aperitif in the local trattorias. Dolcetto production is more concentrated in the Alba area. Dolcetto wines are marked for their softness, little tannins, richer body, and simple fruity notes. The variety gets its name from the word ‘dolce’ meaning sweet as the grapes have high sugar when growing. It is not carried forward to the wines because surprising the wines have a sharp bitter aftertaste that sometimes put amateur wine drinkers off. Poderi Luigi Eianaudi winery produces a great Barbera wine which is not only an easy-drinking style but can also be laid down to age for a few years. 

Moving to the town of Asti, the shackles of robust reds are broken as the simple, light, white sparkling wines await. Asti is the home for perfumed and aromatic white grape variety – Moscato. It is loved for its fresh playful character and produces high quality sweet wines rated amongst the best in the world. It’s produced in two styles here – Moscato d’Asti and Asti Spumante (now shortened to simply, Asti). Moscato d’Asti is a simple semi-sweet semi-sparkling youthful wine known for its low alcohol value (5.5%), refreshing acidity, and perfumed grapey notes. As the wine is only partly fermented it has high natural residual sugar and is only prickly, not sparkling. It is not a complex wine and is rather easy to like. Asti, on the other hand, is a completely fermented dry style of Moscato sparkling. The wine is not complicated and is popular local aperitif of choice. Some producers like Michele Chiarlo also produce a still Moscato which demand a high premium on the wine shelves. Moscato is not best suited for ageing thus these wines are recommended to be enjoyed best while youthful to appreciate their lively exuberance. 

East of Asti is a small area producing the only DOCG designated white wine from Piedmont called Gavi. The wine is made from Cortese grape and is a simple approachable sip. Gavi is marked for its crisp minerality, refreshing citrus acidity, and green herbaceous notes. Ideally it is not aged and best consumed when young. It pairs well with the seafood and the local delicacy of white truffles. 

The capital Torino is also the home to one of the two ingredients of the world’s most famous cocktail, Martini, and that’s Vermouth. Vermouth is an aromatised wine made on the base of wine, red or white, with flavourings and aromatics added to it along with grape spirit. The aromatics are steeped in spirit for a couple of days and then added to the base wine. It is used in many classic cocktails and is an important ingredient for any bar. It is a local favourite and is usually served chilled as an aperitif by itself along with soda or tonic water. 

Piedmont is an astounding destination for a true Italian holiday away from the main touristic cities of the country. For a true experience best visit the region in September and stay at one of the agrotourismos at the local winery. The smell of the harvest and freshly crushed grapes will leave you enticed and asking for more. Enjoy the best known wines in the world and meticulously prepared local delicacies and enhance the experience further every time the dinner table is laid. For the Italian good life, Cin Cin!

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From Under The Tuscan Sun – Chianti Classico

f red wines were to be a religion in Italy then their Mecca, or the Vatican City in this case, would be Tuscany. The red wines it produces are amongst the best knows in the world. And the leader of this heard is Chianti. In the heart of Chianti are the lush breathtaking landscapes of the oldest area of the region called Chianti Classico, the battleground for fierce face-offs between Florence and Siena for dominance of the area that was destined to become the land of the world’s most famous wine. 

Tuscany is a well regarded viticulture area by many agronomists and winemakers. The proximity to the sea keep the area cool and the high-reaching mountains ensure the best sunlight exposure to the vines.  The combination of these natural influences has made Sangiovese, local red grape variety, flourish here to its optimum. The lad of the land, Sangiovese, dominates the vineyard and is the key grape variety of the area. It minds not to share the land with some indigenous varieties like Canaiolo and Colorino and also some international favourites like Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot later used in blends along with it. While the traditional winemakers stick with the indigenous varieties to produce the authentic style of Chianti Classico, some new-age producers play with the international varieties to cater to the palates of the international markets. This is a new shift in the winemaking practices in the region and indicates the preferences in the international market. None the less, everything needs a global face and Chianti Classico is no different.

But was Chianti Classico always the most expressive and impressively robust wine? Surprisingly not. They had their own shares of ups and downs. The blend earlier allowed including white grape varieties like Malvasia and Trebbiano and was not Sangiovese-based but Canaiolo-dominant. Laws didn’t exist to ensure standardisation of quality levels and the wine soon earned itself a tag of ‘bistro wine’. Also the ‘fiasco’ bottle made is worst as it was considered a bottle for bulk wines. All these are now tales of the past and no white varieties are allowed. What now is the identification of a true Chianti Classico wine is its ambassador, Gallo Nero, the Black Rooster.

The word ‘classico’, in winemaking terms, indicates that the area of viticulture from where the berries are sourced was the oldest and the most traditional wine making area of the region. Thus, it is also claimed that Chianti Classico is the real Chianti wine as this is where it was destined to flourish. It also thus was the most important business centre of the state. This was one of the prime reasons why Florence and the Siena had numerous fierce battled for its dominion status. To put an end to these battles and establish a border between the two cities a bizarre method was adopted. It was established that knights from both cities will race towards each other at the cock’s first crow on the day of Armageddon and where they’ll meet will be the designated boundaries of the region. Siena banked up on the punctuality of the local white rooster while Florence appointed a black one. The Florentines slaved their rooster in a dark cage and famished it till the final day. On the fateful day, the famished rooster crowed way before sunrise and the knight was on its way. It met the Sienese rider not far away from its starting point. It was thus that almost all of Chianti came under the Florence’s governance. Black Rooster being the wittily controversial hero of the entire play was regarded as the symbol of the Chianti Classico winemaker’s consortium and is now seen on almost all Chianti Classico bottles.

Chianti Classico wines generally appears in two styles, namely, Chianti Classico DOCG and Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG. DOCG refers to the highest certification awarded to a wine in Italy whose origin is controlled and guaranteed. Chianti Classico is a fairly easy drinking style and is made in a fashion to be enjoyed young. It is considered a daily dinner wine as it reaches its prime easily and is not too complex to demand time to open up.  Its light ruby colour and soft fruit driven aromas are its true characteristics. Chianti Classico Riserva on the other hand is a stylish robust elegant wine which can be laid down for a long time and so will it stay. Legally, it is aged for a minimum of two years and majority of it is in oak barrels. The winemakers believe that a well crafted Riserva can live for a couple of decade easily and still hold its charm. In this version it moves from fruity to more intense notes and develops notes of spices, leather, tobacco, and earth lying one under another. What makes it live longer is higher acidity and alcohol that the basic Chianti Classico and also more intense tannins. Ideally it is enjoyed after four to five years but with right food it can change the dynamics very easily.

In my latest visit to the region I tried some great wines. Some of the great wines I encountered were Spadaio Pecorto Chianti Classico, Geografico Contessa di Radda, Castello della Paneretta Chianti Classico Riserva, Chianti Classico, Geografico Montegianchi Chianti Classico Riserva, Cecchi Chianti Classico Riserva ‘Riserva di Famiglia’, and San Felice Poggio Rosso Chianti Classico Riserva, and Spadaio Pecorto Chianti Classico Riserva.

Chainti Classico wines can be really dynamic when they come to the dinner table. We paired a few Chianti Classico wines with Pici (a local pasta dish), pan-seared duck breast, and even some grilled season vegetables. Riservas can push the boundary further with their complex notes and structures. Try it with Tuscan beef tenderloin, grilled venison, spicy salamis and smoked hard cheese. In Indian context a kadhai prepration or a mildly spiced curry, tandoori mutton dishes, and well roasted chicken can pair just right.

Chianti Classico wines are timeless classics. They are timeless as they need no occasion to relish and soothe every palate. Their long historic fables, the legendary Gallo Nero, tradition and cultural influence on the wine style, and the dynamic stature of its brand itself will never let it be a ‘just another wine’ but an all time must-have.