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Vishal KADAKIA started his wine import business as a wine enthusiast first, a philosophy which has guided him in his journey and defining the types of wines he wishes to bring to India. Today,Wine Park is among the nation’s most respected of import houses and it’s only growing stronger. His passion has helped launch many careers and we have been honoured to have him as a judge at previous ISC finals. Here is a tête-à-tête that we engaged in with the man himself.
Vishal Kadakia started Winepark with passion in wines
What inspired you to import wines in India?
I was already smitten by the wine bug during my stay in Boston from 1997 to 2005. I did my WSET level 2 in 2002 which opened up a whole new world of wines. Post that my travel to burgundy in 2003 was the turning point where I decided to do something in wines. When I returned back to India, I started looking at the selection of wines available. What I saw was disappointing. Also there were so many regions/countries that were missing or under represented. Representation of small independent boutique producers was non existing. Big names ruled the wine list. Passion was missing. With all the above factors I decided to dive in. My goal was simple, bring wines that I love to drink from small independent producers. Mantra that I still follow till date when I choose new wines.
What has been your best wine tasting / gastronomy experience?
Mosel, Germany – World’s most steepest vineyard can be found here.
I had taken a small group of clients to Mosel Germany. Mosel for me is the most beautiful wine region in the world. The Riesling from Mosel is as terroir centric as a wine can get. The owners of kesselstatt (Annegret who is no more), St. Urbans-Hof (Nik Weis) and Fritz Haag (Oliver Haag) all came together to host a dinner for us at Nik Weis brother in law’s 1 michelin star restaurantRussel’s Landhaus. A super 7 course meal was cooked with venisonbeing hunted the very morning. The theme was to show 1 old vintage of mosel with the same vintage of Bordeaux. The vintages went back to 1990’s It was a dinner like no other where the best of winemakers from mosel showing the vintages and comparing the same with the Bordeaux. The passion of each wine maker and the love for their land was electric and so were the wines.
During the same trip Nik Weis took us on a boat ride on the Mosel and made us try wines from all his vineyards along the mosel overlooking them from the boat. This is by far the most memorable and unique wine tasting experience till date.
Which is the most unique wine you have ever tasted or want to taste?
I would surely like to taste the entireDomaine de la Romanee Conti range at some point in my life. I love burgundies and DRC is the holy grail for burgundy aficionados. Also Henri Jayer and Cochy Dury, but now I am getting greedy.
What are the struggles you face importing wines and how you overcome them?
If you are an importer in India, struggles are there in every step. This includes convincing the wineries to put a special back label by stripping of the existing one, to getting all wines check by FSSAI minutely for any back label mishaps (which happens more often than not), inventory management (1 year bonded warehouse rule) so that you don’t run out of wine and convincing client to try new stuff and to put it on the menu.
According to you which wine style India should drink more of?
The world of wines would be very monotonous if it weren’t for the fact that no two wines are ever alike. Different grapes yield forth a diverse array of wines and the same grape planted in different soils will exhibit differences in character. Even the same wine from the same winemaker will change from one year to another. With all this diversity, the real trick is not variety, but rather consistency. He who can make the same wine year on year has a higher chance of being successful than another who may make good wine, but can’t deliver a nearly similar product with every harvest.
Which is where the art of blending comes in. Blending wines is not a new concept, it has been practised since hundreds of years. More recently, Dom Perignon at the Abbey of Hautvilliers was credited with being one of the first people to make ‘Assemblage’ an accepted method to ensure quality and consistency.
So why blend? Isn’t wine supposed to be a natural beverage with minimal (human) intervention? Blending, luckily, isn’t really considered to be tweaking. The idea of a blend is to take the natural potential of grapes and to combine them in a manner so that the total is greater than the sum total of their individual strengths. Put otherwise, the different components contribute to a greater new goodness, one which wouldn’t have been possible by using simply one grape.
Blending is a complex process and requires expertise
Cabernet, for example, shows great aromas and a lasting finish, but can often be lacking on the mid-palate. Blending it with Merlot, which is a very soft grape, helps fill that gap. When blended with Shiraz, not only is that space bridged, it is further enhanced with added aromas and layered complexity on the palate.
Other times, blending is done to tone down strength, as is the case with using some white Viognier grape in Syrah wines, thus yielding a full-bodied red wine with lovely floral aromas and a taut palate.
And then, blending is done with the same grape coming from different parcels. The same grape grown in varied patches of soil will highlight different aspects in the wine and by combining a few such samples, we can come up with a fairly layered multi-faceted blend.
These three mentioned above are the main types of blending to be found. In each case, the blend is meant to enhance the overall enjoyment. It also helps protect against the anomalies of nature to help create uniformity in the product. In case one patch of land gets too much rain, we may need to cut back on the crop from there, shifting focus instead to a site, which saw more amenable weather. And this is one chief method to ensure consistency.
Blending wines is not a new concept, it has been practised since hundreds of years
But the most important aspect of creating a blend is not just about having all the necessary constituents. Once we have the requisite ‘ingredients’, we need a great chef to put them together and this is where the winemakers’ skills matter. It is their job to ensure that the resulting wine is (a) the best possible in the given year; (b) can be made in large quantities at a (c) price-point that won’t fluctuate too much every year; and (d) can be made every year in such a way that even on ageing the wine’s taste doesn’t deviate too far from an established path.
And this is where the importance of the winemakers is highlighted. It is never enough to make a good wine one year; it should be second habit, something that can be repeated almost voluntarily and endlessly.
And yet, in spite of all the reasons in favour of blending, many people prefer to make mono-grape wines. Nothing wrong with that, even if they don’t admit to using different vineyards to bring together the same wine. Thing is, these people feel that blending creates too much homogeneity, which is not a desirable trait. For them, wine should vary, oscillate like a wicked pendulum if it wishes to, but it should never be straitjacketed into being the same every day.
Personally, I am in favour of blends and consider people who eschew blending as just plain lazy. Wine is a pleasure, which enriches each conversation it oversees.
Here, told in her own words, is her professional journey.
Reva K. Singh – Publisher and Editor Sommelier India Wine Magazine
My professional journey originated in my love for books and reading. I started out as a lecturer in English Literature, eventually moving into magazine journalism. I am a literary editor which means words are important and not subservient to design. What I like about magazine work is the combination of text and images and the fact that a good magazine is dynamic and evolves with time, just like wine!
In my long journey, I’ve learnt a lot along the way and met some wonderful people. This is my third act. I’m 71 years of age and I’m at a good place in my professional life. I have achieved my childhood dream of creating a magazine of my own and was lucky in choosing a fascinating subject like wine. In this I was something of a pioneer and contributed to the growth of wine culture in India. I love my work at the magazine and never tire of my subject. My greatest highpoint is when I get a good piece of writing.
What inspired you to start a wine magazine in India?
I always wanted a magazine of my own. I’ve been subscribing to magazines since I was a child. Given my long experience in magazine journalism, it came as a eureka moment when I returned to India. “Why don’t I start a magazine on wine!” I thought. Nobody knew anything about wine and there was a gap in publishing that was crying out to be filled. So, it was a publishing decision.
What books would you suggest to young professionals who want to pursue writing as a career?
There are no dearth of self-help books on the subject. Here
are three titles from my bookshelf:
Reva K. Singh – Publisher and Editor Sommelier India Wine Magazine
Stephen King – On Writing. A Memoir of the Craft A practical view of the writer’s craft, comprising the basic tools a writer should have. Part memoir, part master class by a bestselling author
Natalie Goldberg – Writing Down the Bones. Freeing the Writer Within Write from your first thoughts. Keep your hand moving, don’t cross out, just get it on paper…
Anne Lamott – Bird by Bird. Some Instructions on Writing and Life Writing reveals itself through writing. As you write, you uncover the hidden gems inside you. Words come to you…
Who is your source of inspiration or role model?
I’ve been
inspired by different people at different stages of my life. Too many to
enumerate here.
What is your greatest challenge and how do you overcome it?
My greatest challenge is to fill the pages of Sommelier India with relevant, compelling content, issue after issue while maintaining high editorial standards and always keeping SI’s unique readership in mind. I’m able to do this by discipline, attention to detail and the satisfaction of knowing that each edition is a new beginning, never forgetting I’m only as good as the last issue.
Where do you see beverage journalism in India in the next few years?
As I see it, beverage journalism in India will remain very much a special interest category, whether it be a trade journal such as Ambrosia or a consumer magazine like Sommelier India.
What is your favourite tipple at the end of a busy day?
My favourite
tipple at the end of the day is wine, of course. Which wine it is depends on my
mood. It’s usually from own cellar which is stocked with personal favourites
Sometime back, a bottle of German wine sold for an astounding price of €12,000! It was high by all expectations, from previous auction prices to the winemaker’s expectations. And yet, somewhere in this world is a smug Chinese billionaire sitting pretty waiting for this bottle to turn up, one which he will possibly uncork for some very special occasion — or the very uncorking would deem it a special occasion — and go on to enjoy its €16 per ml of goodness’s worth in some rather exalting company.
Domaine de la Romanee Conti – One of the most expensive wine on the planet
Would he know the difference if I switched bottles on him and served him a lesser wine, one that say only costs €8/ml? It would still amount to a staggering €6000 for a bottle but would his joy be precisely halved? Would he know the difference? Would be able to detect? Would anyone?
All these questions are standard in the wine community. With demand far outstripping supply, wine is faster becoming what it traditionally fought to not be perceived as: a drink for the uber-rich who are willing to pay exorbitant sums for it, so much so that the joy of acquisition is manifold greater than perhaps the pleasure that any elixir could leave on ones’ lips. In other words, is any top wine worth the money one is expected to pay for it anymore?A certain wine eminent was notorious for starting his evenings by serving his guests a top estate wine in cheap stubby wine glasses and then following it up with a single-digit supermarket quaffer served in exquisite handmade mouth-blown crystalware. The invitees invariably veered towards the second wine, appreciating its fineness to no ends while deriding the lack of subtlety in the former. Imagine their chagrin when they were made to realise that what they had enjoyed cost a fraction of the one they had collectively written off. Was it really that the wine was not as good or did the glasses play one on our senses?
Does a wine become expensive because it is good or is it good because the price decrees so?
So who do we trust: our senses or what the label indicates, more appropriately, the price label? Does a wine become expensive because it is good or is it good because the price decrees so? And just how good really is good and beyond a certain point, can a wine ever justify the astronomical price it can command at auctions and the likes?
Clearly, beyond a certain point, the value of a wine does not equal its worth and vice versa. But exactly at what price does this happen that a wine stops being value-for-money? Is it a fixed amount or more based on one’s comfort purchase zone and anything that tends to tip into the not justifiable region? By such logic, the billionaire in the example above is justification enough for the five-digit bottle acquisition.
Here is the simple ‘Zen’ way to approach this conundrum: the enjoyment of a wine isn’t limited to one of our faculties. It’s a multi-sensory experience and in that, it lies largely in the subjective zone. Which means that there is no definite price or value that can be attributed to a wine. A bottle is worth not what you pay for it but the value it adds to your pleasure quotient. In such then, acquiring a pricey bottle simply for the bragging rights is justified too, as long as it pleases the pursuer. Sure it reeks of a ‘nouveau riche’ culture that is utterly shallow and yet deeply hollow but everybody has to have their first sip at some point before they can grow to like it.
And then, think about the winemaker: given the fixed parcel of nature that s/he is fortunate to work with, there is only that much wine s/he can produce. To preserve quality means to limit production which means that the only way to deal with increasing costs and the general consequences of inflation is to inflate prices. And as more people are joining the wine appreciation club, there are more hands vying for those precious few bottles. The rising price is a clear sign of the increasing popularity of a wine that allows it to command such prices. In other words, if you made an average wine and pegged it at a high price, eventually people would see through it and you will be out of business. But till such point, if marketing is the only skill one has in their armoury, then there are many ways to achieve instant fame and ridiculously high evaluation, and before you know it, a whole new breed of aficionados will be running amok trying to acquire this latest qualifier for the most coveted and expensive wine in the world.
Instead of finding an equation to justify value and worth, simply look out for new wine regions.
So have I answered my own question, not really. Value and worth can never be equated and for the little moment in time when the two intersect, it becomes the best time to enjoy those wines. The most famous wine regions of the world sadly passed that point almost over a century ago and today it is for us to discover new areas that pack the same potential but at a more pocket-friendly price point. In other words, instead of finding an equation to justify value and worth, simply look out for new wine regions.
No story of wine will ever be considered complete without a reference to cheese. So intricately linked do the two appear that in most social settings, one is rarely uttered without alluding to the other. And yet, wine and cheese has a lot of myths which are unquestionably accepted when they in fact need to be outright discarded. Let’s try and she light on some of them today. But before we do that a quick round up of the world of cheeses. Suffice to say that it is a vast one indeed. The same cow and the same milk when treated the same way but in two different zones can yield two entirely different types of cheese with very different flavours. In France alone there are more than 360 varieties of cheese which means one for every day of the year so variety is clearly not an issue. This is why provenance has a big role to play here. Once we start accounting for the rest of the world with their own inherent cheese production methods, one lifetime is hardly enough to try them all.One basic classification of cheeses categorises them as follows:
But this isn’t the only way to go for cheese can also be classified by (a) milk source (cow/goat/sheep) (b) by covering (wax/ash/rind/powdery/salt-washed) (c) use (table cheese/cooking cheese/ topping) and a few others. Suffice to say that you need to taste them before you decide how to utilise them, and pair them!And now, without further ado, some myths, busted!
The Cheese Knife
Different types of knives for different cheeses
In France the cheese course comes with a cheese knife and bread. One is supposed to use the knife to cut and place the cheese onto the bread or crackers and then eaten. In the US, a fork is also kept on the cover as people often eat cheese like they would a steak. Personally I find this rather odd and not half as satisfying as having cheese with a carb-centric base.
The Pairing
Cheese and Wine pairing
Pairings with cheese change like fashion trends – it used to be reds, then it became whites, then it was red Port, then white Port, then came Sherry, and now…frankly I don’t know what’s in now? But here’s the thing, try the cheese and try what you wish to serve alongside, doesn’t matter whether it’s a Bordeaux red or a Boulvardier, get some people to try and see their reaction.
That consensus is a good sign of how to take things. But please don’t allow yourself to be limited by tradition. I have had champagne with cheese and enjoyed it thoroughly so often you just need to get the right type of cheese and bottle together.
The Timing
Now most social soirées serve wine and cheese as the starter and floating snack that linger through the evening. In a traditional sense this makes no sense as wine and cheese are one course that is part of a meal so why do people jump to it directly. Well, mainly because cheese is rich in umami and once that coats the palate, the effect of wine is less stand-out and distinct. Yes, sounds contrarian to the general wisdom but that’s how it is – ‘Buy on apples but sell on cheese’ is the sommelier’s motto. Unlike having an apple which will cleanse your palate before a tasting, having cheese numbs it to certain defects. Which is another reason why I often question wine and cheese pairing. It’s like taking a driving test during an earthquake and expecting to have consistent results.
Cooking cheeses and processed cheeses aren’t to be paired raw ever. They have different purposes, processed one is frankly rather dispensable in my books. But personal choices aside, if you will be making a cheese tray, prefer artisanal produce with a provenance story over the supermarket stuff. And definitely no processed cheese cubes!
Keep these basics in mind the next time you want to gather some folks and huddle around a drink and bites.
Rajat Parr is regarded as one of the best wine tasters in the world.
From Calcutta to California, Rajat PARR’s journey into the world of wines is something we can all look up to. Now a Californian winemaker PARR, trained to be a chef at Welcome Group Graduate School of Hotel Administration, Manipal in India. Later, he advanced his culinary skills at the Culinary Institute of America. However, soon he realised kitchen was not to be his calling. A few transitions later, he ended up working at Rubicon, California as a server. What started as a humble job to make ends meet soon metamorphosed into a three-year stint where Parr blossomed into the wine specialist for the restaurant.
Owing to his kitchen learnings, doing justice to maintain the sanctity of a recipe is something one can see in his style of winemaking as well. TheBurgundy-esque techniques and style of Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays are inspired by his mentors and travels to France.
REWARDS FROM HARDWORK AND EVERLASTING PASSION
He has numerous accolades to his name which could take up more space than this little write up can afford. He is generally regarded as one of the most prolific tasters in the West. He is also the author of two award-winning books –Secret of SommeliersandSommeliers’ Atlas of Taste. As a winemaker, he can be credited for putting Santa Rita Hills in California on the world map. The region, which was barely a few vineyards dense back when he started is today a recognised and highly prized wine-growing region in the world. And yet, when you see him turn up for tasting sporting a snapback and an easy-fitting checked shirt, his humility masks it all.
Domaine de la COte, Sta. Rita Hills by Rajat Parr
The presentation and the tasting that followed were equally disarming. Rajat spoke about his life insofar and his winemaking ventures in California and Oregon.Domaine de la Cote andSandhifrom the two regions respectively, were a good showcase of the style of the two regions however, most pertinently they were great at highlighting Parr’s philosophy of “Believing in the Magic of Terroirs”.
At a tasting organised and comprising some of the biggest names from the wine industry – very much like Judgement of Paris where Californian wines beat French for the first time in history – Domaine de la Cote Pinot Noir was adjudged to be among the finest of wines, surpassing even some very enviable names from Burgundy, a region which pretty much is home to the most iconic Pinot wines in the world.
During a recent wine tasting and a tête-à-tête with Mr. Parr in New Delhi. We tasted 2017 Sandhi Chardonnay, and were simply blown away by its depth of flavour, elegance and length on the plate. The wine got better on keeping, the woody nose subsided and made way for a fruity splendour. This trait is not uncommon in the majestic wines of Puligny-Montrachet that show a similar profile as they age. The biodynamically made 2017 Salem Wine Co, from Oregon and with plush fruit, high acidity and a slight hint of forest floor, the wine definitely stood out. The Sandhi Pinot Noir, 2017 was elegant too but much lighter in style, showing all the characteristics of a cool climate Pinot Noir.
Post our tasting, we got the chance to fire some questions at Mr. Parr, and what follows are excepts from our exchange.
What do you think about the Indian wine industry and scope of the market?
The market is evolving and promising especially in Mumbai. However, the duties and taxes are a problem for the importer and the restaurant.
Indian restaurant industry and wine industry are a confined space due to certain constraints. Availability, laws, culture and wine education are the key reasons for this. What’s your advice for beverage professionals as well consumers?
The students and the beverage professionals need to build an infrastructure and basics. Start from learning about wines, grape varieties and then move to how Pinots or Cabernets taste. Build a group of tasters and taste as frequently as you can. For consumers and guests who are still spirit- focused, organise fun and casual events, soirées and small tastings of 2-3 wines and focus on FUN!! Taste wine to appreciate it.
If not Pinot Noir or Chardonnay what would be the most promising varietal for you? And which is the most promising winegrowing region?
Ribera Del Duero is home to Spain’s good wines
Gamay would be fun and delicious addition and that’s something the world should be ready for. Speaking about the wines of the world, Spain is the most exciting region right now. A lot of good things are happening inRibera del Duero, Galicia and Catalunya. It’s been around for a long time but still exciting changes keep on happening.
Lastly an advice to the young beverage professionals in India?
Learn the basics, create infrastructure and stay thirsty. Keep an open mind, keep reading and travel. It’s important to see how wine is made, talk to people and taste.
Most importantly “Believe in the magic of Terroirs”.
The job or title of a sommelier comes with a big responsibility in the F&B space. It demands of you to not only ensure the best sales but also that the clients feel leaving happily advised and educated rather than gypped or cheated by a person of refinement and good taste. In light of this, and while I maintain that a book shouldn’t be judged merely by its cover, it still doesn’t hurt to dress it up a bit for the aesthetic, especially when said visuals could help ameliorate the overall experience for someone.
So, brush up your knowledge of the world’s vineyards but also brush up your wardrobe. Here is a quick guide on how to dress spiffy as sommelier.
SUIT
A well-cut suit has few equals in the world of grooming. Prefer something which involves a tailor rather than buying off-the-peg. Sure it might cost a bit more but remember one doesn’t throw away suits. And with a tailored one, they leave in enough margin to accommodate any extra girth that one may acquire over time. Colours advisable are dark shades of charcoal grey or midnight blue although for a day shift, if one feels confident enough, earthy pastels in a somber tone could be attempted. Think olive green, camel brown, or perhaps a rust-meets-brick hue.
ACCOUTREMENTS
A Sommelier with his/her knowledge also requires style!
That translates to accessories. Cuff links work, as do ties with tie-pins, collar bars and even the very retro-but-cool collar pins. Some may even wish to have the arm bands to keep sleeves in place but if you get a shirt stitched to your frame, that problem shouldn’t ever arise.
Other things that one may throw in are a pocket square or brooch. In fact, for a casual setting, it’s advisable to give the tie a miss and just go the pocket square way. lapel pins work well as long as they aren’t too distracting. Wearing a sommelier’s pin or better yet, an IWBS pin, might be your best bet!
SOCKS
Go crazy, colour it up, match it to your tie, allow for some cheeky colour play. Unless your uniform code decrees otherwise, this is one part of your overall attire that allows you to be playful.
SHOES
Comfort matters and many a good brand will furnish you with good brogues (or wing tips) that look good with suit. Slip-ins shouldn’t be your first choice so lace ups or maybe monk straps is the way. Regarding colour, for me it is always mahogany over black. Grey is noncommittal, so avoid those. Any other colour may not always sit well with the rest of the suit.
OTHERS
Be noticeably memorable but not garishly conspicuous.
A personal handkerchief, a wine opener, and a good pen are the other requisites to complete the outfit. Avoid rings if possible as also other jewellery. Watches are fine as long as they dangle like a loose bracelet. Phones should be neither seen nor heard. An apron, half or full-length, is always a great idea. Hair and/or beard and moustache should always be groomed with non-aromatic products. Similarly, hand cream is a good investment provided you don’t slather it on thick.
If you can follow thee basic guidelines you should be pretty much on the safe path to being noticeably memorable but not garishly conspicuous.
Reveilo, a name synonymous with quality Indian wines, is a story of passion and undeterred commitment to quality. Behind this ho
me-grown brand are the husband-wife duo Yatin and Kiran Patil. It was a life altering decision of quitting their respective corporate lives and returning to their 100-acre ancestral farm in Nashik, Maharashtra. They consciously opted to join the wine industry and cash in on the potential of the then rising sector. With the vision to evolve family’s agricultural heritage into a brand, the first plantings were sown in 2000. And soon, under the tutelage of Vintage Wines and brand ‘Reveilo’, wines were launched in 2006.
THE REVEILO STORY
Kiran and Yatin Patil – Reveilo Wines
What started as a boutique estate-bottled winery more than a decade and a half ago has remained so till date. Reveilo, which signifies revealing the mystery, owes a lot to Italian technology and know-how, having tied up with an Italian group for its technical collaboration. In fact, this vision of providing the Indian consumer with ‘something different yet authentic’ Italian experience led Vintage Wines to walk the untreaded path of planting the Italian varieties ofGrillo, Nero di Avola, and Sangiovese.
KIRAN PATIL
With a degree in Business Management, Kiran Patil has worked for 8 years in the Sales & Marketing domain of realty sector. Subsequently, in 2005, she decided to embark on the wine trail along with her husband. Along the 14 years, she has been instrumental in handling sales & marketing, and in building and growing the brand geographically with consistency and persistence. She’s absolutely passionate about making “Reveilo” one of the premium wine brands in the Indian market, and also to increase its global presence.
Being the first winery in India to produce a barrel-fermented Chardonnay and becoming game changers, what inspired you to take such major steps?
Game changers of Indian wine, Reveilo is leading premium wine producing company.
The Reveilo idea was always to be a premium wine producing company. With this thought process, we thought of making Reserve wines. Of the varieties we had, Chardonnay, Cabernet and Syrah had the potential to age. Typically, it takes time for ageing the wines, which involves fermentation in stainless steel, followed by transferring them to the oak barrels, which adds complexities and character to the wines during the process of ageing. This would take anywhere between 9 to 12 months. So, we decided to cut the entire time to half by fermenting the wines in the barrel itself. The resultant wine was an extremely clean and fresh wine, which was complex and fruit-forward with hints of vanilla and pineapple. Basically, what started off as a time saving process led to a much better product.
Bringing in Italian varietals to a country that’s barely aware of them, how did that move play for you?
When Reveilo was launched, they were predominantly four varieties in the wine market, namely Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. So, we decided to break the monotony, and get in fresh varieties to differentiate ourselves by leveraging the Italian pedigree and providing the Indian consumer with an authentic Italian experience. The varieties chosen wereGrillo, Nero di Avola, and the Sangiovese.
These wines also complemented well with the Indian food. The Grillo did well, as people love the acidity and crispness of the wine. The Nero di Avola and Sangiovese, more familiar varieties, have also been well received, and garnered appreciation. It needed awareness and tastings to familiarise with the wine. But once, the consumers resonated with it, there was no looking back.
Though the numbers are still far away from the regular varietals, nonetheless, they are still encouraging for us and we continue to promote these variants, as we feel India is ready for more varietals. With the introduction of these varieties, Vintage Wines has become the first company in India to produce wines from Italian grapes.
If not India, where else would you want to make wines?
Winemaking is more out of passion and love for the nature, the soil, the grape and wines themselves; so it doesn’t really matter where you make them. Any place with an abundance of nature’s beauty would be suitable for making wines.
How important it is for a beverage professional to visit a vineyard and/or winery?
Reveilo Wines
According to me, it is very important, in fact, mandatory for a wine beverage professional to visit a vineyard or a winery to understand and see how the wine has been made not only in the winery but also in the vineyard, as 80% of the wine is made in the vineyard. It is important to understand the culture, the thought process, the attention to detail, and also the story behind the said wine brand. The beverage professional is an important consumer contact point, and serves as a very important link between the manufacturer and the end consumer, thereby it becomes important that he understands where the wine has come from, and how it is made.
What’s your favourite beverage, when not drinking wines?
Well for Yatin, you’d clearly see him drinking coffee more often than wine
Which winemaking technique(s) or winestyles should India opt for next?
India has adopted the latest techniques and styles of winemaking due to being a late entrant and has used the best practices which are available. India chooses or drinks more of the New World wine styles which are light and fruity as the wine drinking population is the younger generation – the Millenial, who is well travelled and experienced in terms of International culinary.
What measures do you suggest to bring Indian consumers closer to the Indian produce?
To bring Indian consumers closer to the Indian produce, first and foremost, we should have an open market which currently is not there. Alcohol in India is a state subject and there are too many restrictions for free movement of the same across the country. Secondly, a uniform taxation policy which will ensure that a particular wine is available at the same price throughout the country. Here, it doesn’t matter if the rate of tax is high, but it should be uniform across the country, something akin to the GST. Third, we need to abolish archaic tax and regulatory regimes like licensing and label registration fees, and club all the revenue of the Government under the uniform tax.
India should also adopt to the international wine standards so that consumers are offered quality products, and not diluted products to keep the prices low due to high taxes. Apart from these measures, there should also be an entry barrier for imported wines in terms of an import duty to its maximum permissible level, to support our local farmers. This duty should be in addition to the uniform tax applicable on both domestic and imported wines. This would encourage local wineries to flourish, at the same time making the imported wines available as well.
What are the upcoming new offerings from Vintage Wines we should look forward to?
Well there are a couple of offerings in the pipeline. We would reveal them slowly and steadily as we move along; to just give you a curtain raiser there are going to be more Italian wines, which will complement our viticultural environment and eating preferences.
The way ahead for us would be to further increase the share of throat in the Indian market for Reveilo and to increase its global presence. – Kiran Patil
We were aware that the untraveled path that Reveilo had chosen was not going to be easy and the path would be strewn with obstacles like perception of wine (or alcohol in general for that matter) in the Indian society, inter-state taxation, inconvenient licensing and label registration procedures, accounts receivables etc. On the marketing front also, this sector offers a lot of challenges (direct advertising being banned). Combating those challenges and creating opportunities proves to be a great stimulus.
It’s been one hell of a roller coaster ride with its share of hits and misses. A lot of learning’s along the way, but the single most important one that comes to my mind is that of Resilience – staying put on the wicket without getting out.
The way ahead for us would be to further increase the share of throat in the Indian market for Reveilo and to increase its global presence.
