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Blog TippleTalk

#TippleTalk – Hospitality and The Corona Effect

Today, it would be pure speculation to try and evaluate just how the hospitality industry will fare in the wake of the Corona virus. No matter how many webinars we attend or however many industry experts weigh in, the eventual truth remains that none of us will know how to react to the situation till we are in a position to actually engage actively.

Streets are deserted due to COVID-19. Businesses are relying on online modules.

Some businesses have managed to pivot – starting home delivery, conducting online classes – but these are more a survival tactic than a successful integration into a new vertical. Also let’s not forget that the consumer is not in a hurry to start spending like before so the traction for all such endeavours remains fragmented and minimal.

And yet, hope is such a thing that in spite of knowing just how dire these times are, we still cling on and try to formulate ideas and new beginnings. We at IWBS are ZOOM-ing away to keep our #52Drinks52Weeks video-series going and might even roll out some online courses in the not-too-distant future although frankly, without the practical tasting exercises, they won’t feel as complete.

 What we can say for certain is that the hospitality industry may not get to restart from scratch till as late as the third quarter of this year, and even then, it will be rather limited in its range of services being offered. Restaurants and standalone outlets will most likely take even longer to get the go-ahead. In other words, a significant part of 2020 will be spent sitting indoors ruminating ways to stretch our savings and finding novel ways to occupy ourselves. 

Online sessions and discussions are being conducted by beverage experts across the nation

This is a good time for philanthropy though – sharing your knowledge and experiences seems to be the mantra all around and I have seen more of winemakers around the world on online chats than probably had last year through all my travels. In a way, this can be the much needed learning and revitalising break we all needed, even Mother Nature. Sadly, it doesn’t come at our behest or in a manner where we can get to choose so it is crucial that we find ways to feel pleasantly and positively occupied and invested in whatever we choose to fill our time with. I know this might sound a bit cheeky but I have never been so glad to have a ready stash of alcohol to dip into whenever I need through these hard times.

As for the rest, if you haven’t started making your own sourdough or brewing your beer yet, there will be no better time to try either. Or both!

Just,
Magan

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Blog Events + Affairs

Indian Wineries Under COVID-19 Lockdown

Early in the first week of March, Team IWBS visited India’s wine epicentre, the Nashik Valley in Maharashtra. And what a fantastic experience it was! While for Sahil MISRA it was his first taste of the wine capital of the country, Gagan SHARMA had the experiences of 2009 and 2014 to draw comparisons from (more on that later). But just after they returned to Delhi, the world, and shortly after India, came under the deathly grip of the Corona pandemic and the lush harvest time vineyards suddenly felt so quiet and macabre.

Barrel room in York Winery.


We were all left wondering what was happening in the valley. The good news is, as shared with our sommelier and educator Gagan SHARMA over multiple telecons by many winemakers, that the harvests were well in the tanks before the lockdown came into place. Even the few remaining parcels that were yet to be picked were brought in safely. The Indian winegrowers have an association in Maharashtra and Karnataka which came together and urged the local governments to provide passes during the lockdown to workers to aid with the harvests. Thankfully the administrative powers were understanding here, unlike those in Goa who failed the Feni production in totality this year. While some producers had successfully completed the harvests before the 14th of March, those who couldn’t used minimal labour to get the job done. At the time of publishing this, crushing and fermentation is underway with utmost regard for hygiene. No more than 4 workers are being allowed at the wineries and operations are in full swing. While for producers like Sula, Grovers Zampa, and Fratelli Vineyards, 4-5 workers may not be sufficient, at least it helps keep production processes in place and avoids stock lag in the months to come.

Amid COVID-19 Indian wineries are coming together for a common cause


This is a new beginning for the Indian wine industry where everyone came together for a common cause, something that’s rarely seen (unfortunately). The association standing up with a clear common agenda, and the governments supporting them will continue in the future too. We at IWBS Team hopes that all wine lovers will appreciate this collaborative effort when they raise their glasses with the vintage 2020. Coupled with a 30-35% crop failure this year due to harsh weathers and floods in Nashik, this is the year to support our winemakers and industry, and we hope our hospitality industry also supports them internally with relaxed demands of freebies, preposterous margins, and mad retail/sales schemes. 


Team IWBS salutes our winemakers in such tough time. Cheers!!

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Blog Conversations

Conversations With Indulge – Vishal Kadakia

Vishal KADAKIA started his wine import business as a wine enthusiast first, a philosophy which has guided him in his journey and defining the types of wines he wishes to bring to India. Today, Wine Park is among the nation’s most respected of import houses and it’s only growing stronger. His passion has helped launch many careers and we have been honoured to have him as a judge at previous ISC finals. Here is a tête-à-tête that we engaged in with the  man himself.

Vishal Kadakia started Winepark with passion in wines

What inspired you to import wines in India?

I was already smitten by the wine bug during my stay in Boston from 1997 to 2005. I did my WSET level 2 in 2002 which opened up a whole new world of wines. Post that my travel to burgundy in 2003 was the turning point where I decided to do something in wines. When I returned back to India, I started looking at the selection of wines available. What I saw was disappointing. Also there were so many regions/countries that were missing or under represented. Representation of small independent boutique producers was non existing. Big names ruled the wine list. Passion was missing. With all the above factors I decided to dive in. My goal was simple, bring wines that I love to drink from small independent producers. Mantra that I still follow till date when I choose new wines.

What has been your best wine tasting / gastronomy experience?

Mosel, Germany – World’s most steepest vineyard can be found here.

I had taken a small group of clients to Mosel Germany. Mosel for me is the most beautiful wine region in the world. The Riesling from Mosel is as terroir centric as a wine can get. The owners of kesselstatt (Annegret who is no more), St. Urbans-Hof (Nik Weis) and Fritz Haag (Oliver Haag) all came together to host a dinner for us at Nik Weis brother in law’s 1 michelin star restaurant Russel’s Landhaus. A super 7 course meal was cooked with venison being hunted the very morning. The theme was to show 1 old vintage of mosel with the same vintage of Bordeaux. The vintages went back to 1990’s It was a dinner like no other where the best of winemakers from mosel showing the vintages and comparing the same with the Bordeaux. The passion of each wine maker and the love for their land was electric and so were the wines.

During the same trip Nik Weis took us on a boat ride on the Mosel and made us try wines from all his vineyards along the mosel overlooking them from the boat. This is by far the most memorable and unique wine tasting experience till date.

     

Which is the most unique wine you have ever tasted or want to  taste?

I would surely like to taste the entire Domaine de la Romanee Conti range at some point in my life. I love burgundies and DRC is the holy grail for burgundy aficionados. Also Henri Jayer and Cochy Dury, but now I am getting greedy.

What are the struggles you face importing wines and how you overcome them?

If you are an importer in India, struggles are there in every step. This includes convincing the wineries to put a special back label by stripping of the existing one, to getting all wines check by FSSAI minutely for any back label mishaps (which happens more often than not), inventory management (1 year bonded warehouse rule) so that you don’t run out of wine and convincing client to try new stuff and to put it on the menu.

According to you which wine style India should drink more of?

St. Cosme – Little James Basket Press

Aromatic and fruity whites, reds, rose from a good producer with some underlying tone of secondary aromas/taste. So we are just not drinking cheap plonk. A good wine from good producers will over all improve the taste profile of all wine enthusiast. Like a Susana Balbo Torrontes or a Tenuta Sant Antonio Scaia Corvina or a Saint Cosme Little James Basket Press Red.

What is your favourite tipple at the end of a busy day?

Wine of course. Can be anything (red/white/rose/sparkling) which is made by a good producer.

What is your advice to young professionals seeking a career in the wine space?

Reading, tasting and time are the 3 essentials of wine knowledge. There is no instant gratification.

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Blog Conversations

Conversations by Indulge – Charles Donnadieu

In times when full-time on-the-floor sommeliers are growing, they still face a bit of an identity crisis. Usually, it is the Beverage Manager or a server with a keen interest in wines who dons the title. But Charles Donnadieu, the corporate sommelier for The Lalit Group of Hotels, is an exception. Apart from heading the beverage portfolio of twelve major properties across India for the group, he trains his staff, hosts tastings, dinners, evenings, and is the go-to man for all things wine. 

Charles started his journey in France, later moved to Ireland, and now India is glad to call him one of our own. Team INDULGE learns his inspiring + motivating journey, and documents it for the young and budding beverage professionals in the country.

 

What inspired you to become a sommelier?

Conversations by IWBS – Charles Donnadieu

I started my first job as Food and Beverage Manager in resort in Connemara, Ireland, right after completing Bachelors Degree in Hospitality Management in 2004. Later, I realised that I have lack of knowledge in wines. How to recommend and understand the preference of our costumer and suggest wines accordingly was a difficult task. I decided to go back to school to study wines again through one-year “the mention complementaire sommellerie” program at l’Etincelle, Nimes, France. I did a three months’ practice in the vineyards during harvest and six months theory & practice in school itself. Lastly I ended up with a three months’ training in a Michelin Star restaurant

My teachers transmitted their passion & knowledge to me, thus, making me a better sommelier and a beverage professional.    

  

What struggle did you face during your initial days working in India? And how did you overcome them?

My English was poor. It took me a little time to communicate properly. Indian wine market itself was very difficult to understand, between wine offers, and availability, which keeps on changing every six months. Promoting wine producer rather than the brand isn’t simple to implement. Indian market is more brand driven and, for a sommelier, it’s very important to discover new wines and appellations to make his wine offers more attractive than the market itself.

English with practice became better. Boutique wine programs have been implemented years after years with a good response from our costumer. Every six months, a lot of wine enters in the market and other leaves. This acts as an advantage for a sommelier to taste a lot of new wine every other month. I think this is very important, in order to educate our palate and improve our knowledge.

What are the commendable things you see in India as a young wine-producing region?

In the last six years I have seen a lot of improvement in the key wine regions – Nasik, Karnataka, and Hampi Hills. Year after year it’s still a surprise to see how they sustain quality and make their own styles. For example, full body & spicy oak barrel Cabernet-Shiraz from Nasik, or aromatic Sauvignon Blanc, or Chenin Blanc with a refreshing tropical style that defines some of the Indian wine producing regions.

Indian wines at The Lalit, New Delhi

More and more wine from India are being awarded at international competitions. This means India is about to be on the world wine production map. For mere 40 years-old history, it’s such a good recognition

According to you, what qualities should young professionals have to become a successful beverage professional?

I think it’s very important to be humble and passionate. Taste as much as possible, get your hands on every beverage, and never get drunk, in public or even in private

What are your favourite tipples after a tiring day?

A post-work Mojito at Kitty Su before heading home is still my favourite.

What’re the advantages of working in India?

India is a young market. There are many activities happening around wines which makes every day different from the other, and working more enjoyable.

Charles, would you please share your daily work schedule?

As corporate sommelier, my journey starts at the office around 11 am to ends at 7 or 10 pm. What I do on a daily basis is:

Charles is the brains behind the brilliant wine list at Lalit Group of Hotels
  • Dealing with wine supplier – mainly tasting wines, updating and finalising menus, and planning upcoming wine dinners.
  • Plan and deliver internal trainings to all staff members to make them familiar with our wines.
  • Wine promotion across the hotels, wine dinner programs, and pairing concepts to make our guests enjoy wines during meal, rather that just before, or after.
  • Updating wine list across 12 hotels.
  • And of course, each day is different from the other.