Indulge Academy & Experiences by Sommelier Gagan SHARMA, offering professional wine & spirit courses and experiences in India #IndianGinTrail #WorldWhiskyTrail #IndianVineTrail Learn From Home French Wine Scholar
Currently the Business Head for India –TWG Tea, the Global Luxury Tea Brand from Singapore. Prior to this Prarrthona Pal Chowdhury was the Country Manager, Indian Sub-continent for the French Luxury Liquor majorRémy Cointreau. I operate essentially in the Luxury Beverage space.
I was inducted into the spirits trade by Pernod Ricard and learnt my wines from Sula Vineyardsand my journey with beverages continue with tea! I am a certified Whisky Ambassador from Glasgow, Scotland, WSET Level 2 in Spirits – Level 3 in Wines, London and a Cochran Fellow on Wine, Spirits and Beer from United States Department of Agriculture, also certified Tea Seller from TWG Tea Training Academy, trained in luxury fromESSEC Parisand an alumnus of IIM Calcutta– Advance Management Program in Marketing. Graduated in Philosophy from the prestigious Presidency College Calcutta and also a Post Graduate in Digital Marketing and Communication fromMICA, Ahmedabad.
Who would you like to make fall in love with tea?
Why not the Gen Y, the millennials and Gen Z? Tea is not a grandfather’s drink…it’s trendy and chic!
What is your opinion on coffee and coffee-drinkers?
Try Tea…it helps you lose weight and is an immunity booster (that’s all what matters today.)
What’s the most unusual style of tea Prarrthona Pal Chowdhury have ever tasted?
It makes you fall in love with it. And that isn’t good.
One serious tea no-no? And one tea no-no that you allow yourself to indulge in now and then?
Milk is a strict no-no. Love sugar in my tea, although that too is a no-no.
If you were to experiment with tea and any alcohol what would it be?
Why if? I do that regularly! I spike my cold goblet ofSilver Moon from TWG Teawith vodka and top up some blended rooibos(Vanilla Bourbon) with sparkling.
How does one become a tea taster?
If you are a wine sommelier or aspiring to be one, your taste palate is mature enough and so you are ready to be a tea sommelier. If you wish to learn about teas, we can teach you. But a ‘Tea taster’ is an entirely different job profile – they select the teas to import for us or decide on the prices of teas depending on their quality. This is a very crucial job like that of a cellar master in Cognac, I say this so that you can easily gauge the difference. Knowledge here comes with time, dedication and passion, it is not a subject that can simply be taught By – Prarrthona Pal Chowdhury.
The ‘hipster’ home-brewed probiotic tea drink, Kombucha, is what we are exploring this time. It is sexy, healthy, curative, and gastronomic too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1ApIsCE1tk&t=87s
Kombucha is a fermented and sweetened tea often made with black or green tea. It is largely classified as a functional beverage, meaning that it is a non-alcoholic drink that contains vitamins, amino acids or other nutrients associated with health benefits. The process of preparing kombucha can vary but generally involves a double fermentation process wherein a SCOBY (a pancake-shaped symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast) aka mother aka mushroom is placed in a sweetened tea mixture and left to ferment at room temperature for 1-3 weeks, and then bottled for 1-2 weeks to contain released CO2 and encourage carbonation.
ORIGINS
The exact origin of kombucha is uncertain, though it likely originated in China and spread with tea along the Silk Road. However, it is believed that Kombucha originated in Northeast China (historically referred to as Manchuria) around 220 B.C. and was initially prized for its healing properties. Its name is reportedly derived from Dr. Kombu, a Korean physician who brought the fermented tea to Japan as a curative for Emperor Inkyo. Eventually the tea was brought to Europe as a result of trade route expansions in the early 20th century, most notably appearing in Russia (as “Kambucha”) and Germany (as “Kombuchaschwamm”). Despite a dip in international popularity during WWII due to the shortage of tea and sugar supplies, kombucha regained popularity following a 1960s study in Switzerland comparing its health benefits to those of yogurt.
POPULARITY
Initial popularity was due in part to consumers who believed that the beverage was a powerful health aid for serious medical conditions. It is widely brewed in parts of eastern Europe, particularly in rural Russia, and is common in China, Japan, and Korea. Studies conducted through 2010 suggested that the health benefit anecdotes associated with kombucha have occasionally been overblown by the media and industry figureheads. the beverage contains similar benefits to plain tea and fermented foods, including probiotic benefits that encourage gut bacteria diversity and aid digestion.
MEDICINAL VALUES
In the United States kombucha initially gained popularity during the HIV/AIDS epidemic in the late 1980s and early ’90s, as it was hoped that the drink could increase T-cell counts and support compromised immune systems. However, it fell out of favour following a report by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) in 1995 that linked the drink to two cases of severe metabolic acidosis, one of which was fatal. With greater awareness of probiotics and the possible health benefits of fermented foods, it resurged as a health product in the early 21st century, and home-brewing kits and commercial brews were soon readily available in many places.
If there’s one drink that has been keeping us, our parents, their parents, their parents, and even the British nostalgic, it has to be Roohafza.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sH8Hmp_3XEI
Be it drinking it at at your grandparent’s place, with chilled water and a squeeze of lemon, or serving it at Gurupurab, it has been a family and social drink.
HUMBLE ORIGINS
Roohafza started in 1906 to beat the monstrous heat of Delhi by a practitioner of Unani and herbal medicine, Hakim Abdul Majeed.
Unani system derives its philosophy from the Greek physicianHippocrates, who believed in the healing power of nature and advocated that medicines be safe and gentle
It was first sold by Hakeem Majeed’s Dawakhaana called Hamdard, in Lal Kuan Bazaar of Old Delhi. Hamdard means the ‘sympathiser in pain.‘ Roohafza, however, is a Persian word meaning – ‘Soothing to the Soul’
And the Bangladeshi website of Roohafza says it was the name of a character adopted from the book of Masnavi Gulzar-e-Naseem written by Pandit Daya Shankar Naseem Lakhnavi. And who was the character? It was the name of the daughter of heaven, also called Jannat ki Beti
BRINGING TO THE MARKET
It was released in 1907 with a fancy label, designed byMirza Noor Ahmad, that still remains unchanged. It was too complicate to be printed locally and was sent to was printed by the Bolton Press of the Parsees of Bombay. And, the earlier Roohafza bottles were heavier and taller with a long stem, made of glass, closed with wooden cork, like a wine bottle. The today plastic bottle avatar came rather recently in 2012.
And there are records that by 1912 many princely rulers made it a part of their daily diets. It became especially famous amongst the Muslim communities as it could be drunk during Ramadan or Ramzaan, at the only meal of the day, at the end of their Rozas, called Iftaar, not just because its refreshing but also because its natural.
At iftaars, the entire family eats together and mothers and grandmothers pour it huge from jugs. It’s the perfect family drink. And this is what can be seen in movies today, remember that scene from Ye Jawaani Hai Deewani with Ranbir Kapoor’s mother pouring him a glass?
ROOHAFZA, PARTITION, AND THE FAMILY
Hakim Majeed passed away in 1922 leaving the reigns in the hands of his 14-year-old son Abdul Hameed who successfully expanded the brand and the business. But like many homes in India, Partition broke the family and Mohd. Said, the second son moved to Pakistan. At that time they had setups in Pakistan, India, Bangladesh too. So, it can be said that Roohafza has witnessed the bloody birth of three new countries. Of which, Arundhati Roy mentions the same in her book, The Ministry of Utmost Happiness.
SHERBET RECIPE + ROOHAFZA INNVOATIONS
Typically, a sherbet has either a base of Fruit, Flower, or Roots – Roohafza has all three. It contains natural ingredients like khus (poppy seeds), lilies, keora, roses, sandal, juices like pineapple and orange, and much more. And minus the two nostalgic ways of drinking, there’s much more that can be done.
Hamdard has tried some innovations of their own as well. Be it launching its ready-to-serve format like RoohAfza Fusion, or having RoohAfza inspired drinks at Barista coffeeshops, or even developing RoohAfza flavoured milk. But, one of the most talked about play was its carbonated drink sold in cans, in Pakistan, as RoohAfza Go. Some didn’t agree with it, some did, but, who are we to say
ROOHAFZA DOMINATES
In Indian, Roohafza still dominates 50% of the powdered soft drinks and liquid concentrates.Saveur Magazine, considered by many to be the last word on authentic cuisines, ranked RoohAfza No. 1 in the drinks category from around the world in 2007.
SHERBETS IN INDIA
But, do remember, sherbet, sharbat, sarbath…whatever you call it, has had a longer standing history in India than Rooh Afza. The word comes from the Arabic term shariba, meaning “to drink”, and arrived in India with the Mughal Emperor Baburin the 16th century.
Well, Sherbets may have come with them but their earlier rendition has been mentioned in theTravels of Ibn Battuta in Asia and Africa, where he describes a royal meal he had with the 14th century Sultan Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq at Tughlaqabad in Delhi. He mentions sherbet of rose water that was served before meals, which ended with paan.
Roohafza has been a classic dressing in Faloodas and Rabris, which also was brought in by the Mughals from Persia, and Humayun was especially a fan of.
Interestingly, his son,Akbarwas a vegetarian three times a week. He cultivated his own kitchen garden and carefully nourished them with rosewater, so that the vegetables would smell fragrant on being cooked!
Well, definitely sherbets have come a long way. In the new age, people are getting kicks from international drinks. In such times, we would like to see more Indian drinks returning to bars and restaurants after the lockdown lifts. we’d happily opt for a Roohafza over any carbonated drink even at a hotel or a restaurant. And why stop at that. Why not use it mixology, or baking, or desserts. I say let’s do that. In times of Atmanirbhar Bharat and Vocal for Local, and let it not just be a drink from our childhood, and drink up our heritage and be proud of it.
With Peru, Spain, France, Holland, Britain, Indonesia, India, and Africa contributing to perfecting the beverage over a span of over 500 years, Tonic Water has come a long way. From being a global medicinal drink to that of choice of the British Raj in India, tonic water was once as precious as gold.
Sommelier Magandeep SINGH and Gagan SHARMA share the long and lesser-told story of Tonic Water, the Indian Tonic Water, and how it shaped cultures over centuries.
Tonic water has murky beginnings – no absolute clarity as to where it all began.
17TH CENTURY PERU
Spanish colonists discovered a treatment for Malaria in the bark of the Quinquina tree. 1638, one account insists that the fateful encounter was the result of the wife of the Spanish Viceroy in Peru, the Countess of Chinchon (In Spain, near Madrid), falling ill with Malaria. The Quechua (Inca) peoples had long understood the Cinchona tree’s ability to stop shivers in cold temperatures. The potion worked and she quickly recovered.
And when the Count and Countess of Chinchon returned to their castle and lands in Spain, in 1640, where malaria was rife, the Countess took her miracle powder with her. It was, thus, called the “Countess’s powder” or simply bark from the “fever tree”
FRANCE IS A PAL, BRITISH AREN’T
It’s a known fact that then the Spaniards and the French were a team, while the British and the Portuguese worked together.
By 1817, French scientists Pelletier and Caventou found a method for extracting the bark’s most medically powerful compound, quinine. They established a factory to isolate quinine from the bark and sold the drug as a means of preventing Malaria.
France of Dubonnet, the wine-based aperitif and favourite of the late Queen Mother. This tonic wine was invented in 1846 by Joseph Dubonnet, using a blend of herbs and quinine, and was said to be commissioned by the government to tempt the French Foreign Legion to take their antimalarial medication while abroad.
In 1841 the English Journal complained of ‘a visit to Holland, where gin and quinine must be drunk to keep malaria away’. In the military, however, gin wasn’t yet popular.
The powers of South America were growing. In 1860 alone, South America exported around two million pounds of Cinchona bark to Britain and the United States. A South American monopoly combined with over- harvesting pushed Cinchona trees to the brink of extinction.
Quinine became as valuable as gold.
PERU AND THE DUTCH
With Peru still prohibiting exporting Cinchona seeds, both the British and the Dutch turned to smuggling cinchona seeds out of South America and set upon a race to find a way to supply their own demand.
1860s, Charles Ledger infamously smuggled Cinchona seedlings out of Peru and sold them to the Dutch government. Holland set up large plantations in Java, their colony in Indonesia. By World War I, (1914 – 1918) the Dutch nearly monopolised the quinine trade from their plantations in Java, supplying 95% of the world’s quinine
Perhaps equally importantly, by the 1880s cheap and dependable supplies of quinine – a key ingredient of tonic water – became available from the India, Sri Lanka and Java plantations. All the 19th century references to gin and tonic, from 1868 onwards, are from India and many but not all have military connections.
By 1870, Schweppes used the appropriate name Indian Tonic Water for its tonic water.
During World War II, (1939-1945) Japanese occupied Java, and planted Quinine in Africa. Today, most comes from there.
INDIA AND TONIC
In 1825, British officers had already began mixing gin with their daily ration of quinine tonic and unwittingly, had invented a potent precursor to the classic Gin and Tonic. After the Sepoy Rebellion of 1857 (or the “Indian Mutiny”), the British Crown took over the governance of India from the British East India Company and strengthened its presence on the subcontinent.
Many credit its invention to officers in the Indian Army taking their daily bitter quinine dose washed down with gin and soda. Some date this as early as 1825, unlikely that this is the true origin, and no records or references have been found to support this.
INDIAN ARMY – In the British Army it seems that whichever spirits were most handy were used, most often brandy, whisky, rum, wine or local spirits. An 1863 report on the army in India and Ceylon records that quinine doses were given daily in b, a locally distilled spirit. Rum or ‘grog’ was the preferred Navy tipple for taking a dose.
AT THE BAR – The first known reference to gin and tonic as a bar cocktail is in the Anglo-Indian Oriental Sporting Magazine in 1868, a decade after the first patented quinine tonic water. The term was evidently a familiar phrase in India, being called out by attendees of a horse race at Sealkote (Sialkot), in current Punjab of Pakistan, as they finish for the evening
GIN OVER BEER – England’s sailorsoften found themselves traveling to destinations where malaria was prevalent, so they brought quinine rations to help prevent and fight the disease. Quinine tasted notoriously awful, so Schweppes (1870s) came out with an “Indian Tonic Water” to make it palatable. London Dry Gin accompanied the sailors on these voyages. It was in fashion at the time and made for better cargo than beer, as the latter quickly spoiled in the sweltering bellies of ships. So, like true Englishmen, eventually the two liquids were combined to form what is now the classic gin cocktails. Limes were added due to their b properties, thus birthing the term “limey,” a moniker for sailors. Cordials were made to preserve the limes, and a lime cordial and gin were inevitably combined (hello, Gimlet).
TONIC AND CURE
Quinine was the only effective Malaria treatment for over 300 years – now it isn’t.
It was taken daily as a preventative, not just a cure. The recommended amount was one to two grains per day, in sherry or another alcoholic drink – between 65 and 130 milligrams.
A modern tonic water contains a maximum of 83 milligrams of quinine in a litre. It may not be a preventive dose but surely aids in digestion.
A light-hearted research trial in 2004. This measured quinine blood levels after volunteers downed between 500ml and 1,000 ml of tonic water in 15 minutes. Even with this quantity, tests showed only a brief and minimal protective effect against malaria.
“Cinchonism” symptoms include headache, nausea, ringing in the ears, and in more extreme cases, loss of hearing and vision.
NOW – A controversial, highly processed sugar derived from cornstarch, called High Fructose Corn Sugar (HFCS) is used as a sweetener. It is extremely dangerous and unhealthy. The today tonic has approximately 3 times the sugar as fruit juice.
What we do know is the the ‘Indian Tonic Water’ is a recipe with lesser sugar and higher citrus than any other tonic water style. Also, it uses Saccharine than HFSC, which is comparatively less dangerous, but it is still sugar and is unhealthy.