Categories
Blog Conversations

Conversations with Indulge – Radhika Khandelwal

Chef Radhika started her career in Melbourne. After coming back to Delhi she started Ivy & Bean, where they (she and her partner) did Modern Australian food. But back in Melbourne the emphasis on local and seasonal produce really resonated with her and inspired her to open Fig & Maple

Here is her journey in her own words.
“I’m not going to say it has been easy. You meet all sorts of people and guests who will come with the weirdest requests. I’ve worked with a broken foot multiple times and then there are days you’re in the kitchen for 16 hours straight. It’s mad, it’s exhausting but at the end of the day, when you see people loving what you’ve created, you realise that’s it’s totally worth it.”

How to tell off a customer who orders a three-course meal 15 minutes before closing?

I’d respectfully tell them that the last orders have already been taken. If they insist or had to drive a long way to eat, I’d suggest some dishes that are available and can be prepared in a jiffy.

What is the one thing (tool, spice, ingredient) you could not live without?
Just one?

I can’t live without my knife, my Shun is very dear to me and please don’t make me pick just one ingredient. I really can’t!

What is your secret sauce?  / What behind-the-scenes secret can you tell us about your kitchen?

We have this little practice of naming a dish after the chef who comes up with it. Like we have a Tiger Chicken, it’s named after my Sous-Chef Sheru which literally means tiger!

What is your one guilty food pleasure that other chefs might frown upon?

There could be many but if I had to point one, I snack on lotus chips from my own kitchen 🤭 

If you could invite any three people, dead or alive, for dinner, who would they be and why?  

I’d invite Chef Dominique Crenn and myself. I don’t need a third person because I look upto her and I think I’d want to have a dinner with her all by myself to fangirl and to bounce off some ideas. 

What’s your favourite tipple at the end of a busy day?

Infused gin from my apothecary and tonic.

What is your advice to young professionals seeking a career in this field?

Work hard. There are no short cuts here and you can’t run away. If you work hard it shows, if you don’t and are being lazy, trust me that shows too. 

Categories
Blog Conversations

Conversations with Indulge – Ravish Bhavnani

I did my bachelors in hospitality from Ihm Bhopal, moved to Melbourne in 2006, worked at a high end banquet for two years, moved on to do my first Ala Carte gig thereafter opened a cafe with chef Radhika Khandelwal in Melbourne in 2010. We ran that for 3 years before moving back to New Delhi in 2013 opened Ivy and bean in the same year in October and proceeded to open Fig & Maple with Chef Radhika Khandelwal in January 2017

Which is your favourite cuisine? Who does a good version of it, in India or elsewhere? 

My favourite cuisine would have to be Lankan and coastal Indian. There’s this really tiny place in Ahangama right on the main road run by a local family don’t remember its name but they did a fabulous fish thali

If you never became a chef, in what other ways would you have used your creativity?

If I wouldn’t have become a chef I might have become a pilot. I love planes and I love travelling.

Is there anything that diners should always order at your restaurant(s)?

The chefs waffle chicken with podi that chef Radhika put on the menu a couple of months back.

The saying goes ‘never trust a skinny chef’, what do you have to say about that? 

Hahahahha!! Maybe a very big reason I moved to the bar from the kitchen at Fig & Maple.

What’s your favourite tipple at the end of a busy day?

It would have to be a Boulevardier or a really, really cold lager.

What is your advice to young professionals seeking a career in this field?  

Keep your head down! Work hard. Most days you wouldn’t know what hit you but it’s all worth it in the end. Keep at it and never give up.

 

Categories
Personalities Blog

Conversations With Indulge – Pratik Angre

Pratik Angre is known sommelier on the Mumbai circuit. From IHM Mumbai, to Taj Hotels in Pune and then to Mumbai, to making his way to chain of restaurants with Massive Restaurants, to taking over the Beverage Management role at Gauri Devidayal’s enterprise, he has worn many hats. He’s been the winner at the coveted Indian Sommelier Championship, and travelled to Austria representing the motherland.

Team INDULGE learns about the journey, experiences, and his management fundamentals…

What’s your favourite memory of serving a wine?

It was when I knew nothing about wine except for serving it.

We had a long stayer guest at Taj Blue Diamond, Pune in 2014. I was the Bar Manager then. Accompanied with his wife, he ordered a bottle of Cakebread Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon. I opened the wine and served it, and then put it in a decanter and left it on the table (that is all I knew at the time). They finished the bottle and asked for one more and I repeated the service sequence. After a while the guest called me and asked how do I buy my wine? He asked if same vintages are bought or different ones. Luckily, I knew what vintage meant at that time. I said I just place the order to purchase and asked him what was his concern. He said “I didn’t see the year on the previous wine bottle (I did not announce the wine at that time) but I think this one is a different year than the last one.”  Now for someone who did not know much about wines I was curious, confused, and out of words. I straight up asked him how could he actually tell the difference between two years? He said he could because he drinks wine regularly and had visited the Cakebread Cellars in Napa Valley, U.S.

It was because of this day I started to have an extra curiosity in wines, and started reading about it a lot. I also had asked the guest what to do if I wanted to learn more about wine. This would be my favourite memory as the guest and I keep meeting every year as he travels to Mumbai often and it was this day that led me to be a Sommelier.

You’re managing the beverage programs at The Table, Miss T, and have worked with the Taj Group before. How do you design a rockstar wine program for a chain?

I think the most important thing to do when thinking of a wine program is what type of clientele does the restaurant attract and / or what clientele would you want to attract (if it’s a new restaurant). 

There is no point in keeping wines which may have a great name in the world but does not suit the clientele dining at the restaurant. Also, just selecting and listing wines on the menu isn’t called a wine program. There has to be staff training, activities around wine and most important different styles of wine offerings apart from the ones listed or around the ones listed.

At Massive Restaurants, we had done a Rose wine activation across 15 restaurants with 7 different types of Rose wine by the glass to make people taste different styles. At The Table, we had a Pinot Noir week where we had 6 Pinots by the glass, from different regions . We have had Spanish wines, Tuscan wines, and Bordeaux wines by the glass, which generally are served only by the bottle. We also had a masterclass for our guests during such activations. Also, our entire staff tastes all the wines before we roll them out in an activation. Staff trainings are very important as the wines do not sell by themselves.

A good wine program comes down to what can be offered to the customer that keeps them and the staff engaged.

How has winning the Indian Sommelier Championship (ISC) changed your life?

Not only winning, even participating in the competition (I had participated in the two years before I won), made me realise how vast the wines & beverages industry is. And how our country does not have this in its culture. I saw how many more people require this exposure and training as there is a big need for wine professionals.

In fact, I got my first job as a sommelier after winning the competition. There were only 3 sommelier positions in Mumbai. Not many hotels or restaurants had the concept of a sommelier in 2016.

I had the opportunity to travel to Vienna, through the competition, and interacted with sommeliers, winemakers, writers, and attained more knowledge on how they drive the wine culture in their countries. When I returned, I joined a group where we came together for wine tastings which made people realise the importance of it. I was even invited to wine tastings, wine related events, also to judge wine competitions. This gave me a different kind exposure and helped me grow in my learning, enabling me to share more with my colleagues and others. 

It was not that one moment of winning but everything that unfolded after, seeing the different layers of the industry and realising that the essence of a sommelier lies in constant learning. This competition has given rise to more individuals being interested in the wine industry and provides a platform every year for sommeliers like me to give something back and provide a little bit more of what we have learned.

What is one off-work routine you stand by?

Going for a run or a swim. I think doing these things makes your mind fresh and active.

What’s the biggest myth about drinking wine?  

The biggest myth about drinking wine is the question – ‘Which is the best wine?’. I believe that if a person enjoys a particular wine, that is their best. People should go and just explore, and not look at it as a serious or intimidating task. Go buy and try a new wine with your friends, and if you don’t like it at least you know which one not to buy next time. The best wine is the one you share and truly enjoy in the company of your loved ones. 

If given a free ticket, which wine region you want to travel to?

California would definitely be the first location to come to mind. I love Californian wines and I have been obsessed with California since my teens, because of the 80s & 90s rock bands. I feel that California is becoming a very progressive wine region by making different styles of wine and experimenting with grape varieties. It holds a lot of history – the Judgement of Paris, 1976, a historic event when Californian wines beat French wine in a blind tasting which brought them on the world map. Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, Russian River Valley Pinot Noir & Fume Blanc styles are my favourite.  

What’s your favourite tipple at the end of a busy day?

Its always been Old Monk and Coke (mostly because I can afford it). More recently it has been Mezcal and Tequila that has caught my interest. I also try using different flavoured tonics. Mezcal with Grapefruit and Tequila with Elderflower is what I feel goes well together.

What is your advice to young professionals seeking a career in this field?

If you are borderline crazy, welcome to the F&B industry! Jokes apart, there needs to be passion and obsession for your work and knowledge as there is no grey area. You need to dive in and keep learning, because the more you learn the more you realise how much you do not know. Stay hungry for knowledge, always! 

Apart from mastering wines, what other skills must a sommelier possess?

A sommelier’s skill set is not only restricted to mastering wines, but also to possess a complete knowledge of all foods and beverages in general. The most important skill a sommelier should have is people skills, to be able to share stories with guests and be able to perceive the guest’s choice through conversation, and also to be able to share his knowledge and ideas on wines with his colleagues.

Lastly, a sommelier should build trust with guests, and also bring in some humour.  

Categories
Blog TippleTalk

#TippleTalk – India and the Michelin

Recently, I was privy to a very finely curated meal by the German Sühring Twins who run Bangkok’s top table. The two had been flown down courtesy of Raaj ‘Sanguine’ Sanghvi and they set up camp at The Taj Mahal Hotel, New Delhi, from where they’d dole out a few very coveted meals (thank you German Tourism for the gracious invite). Definitely worth a trip to Bangkok for an encore. Sadly such experiences are few and far between because, in spite of all our rich cuisines and chefs, India is yet to go under the Michelin magnifying glass, while the rest of Asia gets dotted with stars-like constellations.

Sühring showcases the best of modern German fare inspired by childhood memories, family recipes.

But even before the Michelins, Routards and Zagats can attack our outlets, the chefs and servers have the toughest challenge to contend with the Indian consumer. Few species in the organic world act as entitled. Here are a few peeves that I hold no reservations against them.

Relativity of Time

Reservations merely indicate one’s intent to turn up with no bearing on what time they’ll actually arrive. But they will still stake claim to the best seats in the house with threats to call up the owners, landlord, and supreme overlord. Coming late means they ruin not just their experience but even for those scheduled to arrive after, who will then resort to their own set of threats. Till time travel can be invented. Indian restaurants will not find a way around this.

Bespoke Meals

It isn’t enough to be fed by coveted chefs and their teams, we have to sprinkle it with extras and exclusions so that by the end, any resemblance to the original menu is purely coincidental.

If ‘no onion and garlic’ to ‘chicken only’ weren’t bad enough obstacles to tackle, we now have a severe case of Americanitis in the forms of ‘no gluten’, ‘no carbs’, and nonsensical diets: even the Paleo man would have eaten better if they’d have invented fire. So chefs, park your imaginations and creativity at home and get ready to serve out meals no better than in a cafeteria.

Entitlement

This is, at best, a brown version of white privilege. At its worst, it includes people who are self-proclaimed foodies and bloggers, especially those with some online affiliation. They want special promotions, sharing portions, one into two and two into ‘parcel it for home’ notions, they want discounts, and photos of every plate put in front of them. This distracts not only other diners but even the chef who is now reduced to a personal Johnnie running errands for someone on an ego trip.

Discounts

Art of plating by Eleven Madison Park

An Indian diner will overeat to the point of being sick if it gets him/her a discount. Between the various apps that offer some form of lure or another (a free dish, a glass of wine, etc.), restaurants are left battling even higher food costs. As a result, they scale back the pork and lamb, leaving us the bland ubiquitous chicken as the only option. Same with exotic fish and seafood for all we have is the bottom-feeding catfish Basa as the staple, calling it the paneer of the sea world would be undue praise! Hard to make imagination fly with such.

Hence my point that earning Michelin stars might be tough but catering to the Indian clientele is even tougher. So, Indian restaurateurs, if you want to step away from the meaningless clutter of smug eateries and do something truly nouveau and worthwhile, apply for immigration, move to anywhere else in the world and do it there; you can earn your stars serving proper beef and other meats, wine will be cheap and aplenty. Even the average Indian diner, is more soberly behaved abroad. And then maybe we can request Raaj to fly you in for a special pop-up meal!
The writer is a sommelier.

This article originally appeared in The New Indian Express

mail@magandeepsingh.com

Categories
Blog Conversations

Conversations With Indulge – Gauri Devidayal

Gauri Devidayal is a law graduate from University College London and a Fellow of the Institute of Chartered Accountants England & Wales. She pursued her career as a tax consultant with PricewaterhouseCoopers in London and Mumbai for 8 years.
After 8 years in London, Gauri returned to Mumbai where she was born and brought up. In early 2008, she met her husband, Jay Yousuf and was persuaded to leave the tax profession and to join him on his restaurant adventure. With no previous experience of the hospitality industry and having never dreamt of doing anything entrepreneurial, Gauri nevertheless supported Jay in creating The Table, a restaurant in South Mumbai, which has gone on to win many accolades and much recognition in the city as well as
internationally, including being rated the #3 restaurant in the country by a leading travel publication.
While planning the restaurant’s popular wine list, Gauri was encouraged to take on the Wine and Spirits Education Trust’s Level III exam which she completed with a flying distinction. She was also on the jury panel of the India Wine Awards for the last two years and has been at the forefront of the farm to table initiative for the restaurant by setting up The Table Farm in Alibag, from where the restaurant gets much of its fresh produce.

Gauri is one of the very few restaurateurs in India


In 2016, Gauri co-founded Magazine St. Kitchen, a culinary playground for intimate dinners, cooking workshops and more, housed in a restored heritage structure, in Byculla – a space that has already created an unparalleled buzz within the food community. The Kitchen is also the base for the wholesale and retail bakery – Mag St. Bread Co and the group’s catering arm, Dining Table.
In 2018, Gauri partnered with the team from Neighbourhood Hospitality (Woodside Inn, The Pantry & Bombay Vintage) to open Miss T, a South East Asian fine dining restaurant and cocktail lounge in Colaba, which has also gone on to win many accolades including the Best New Restaurant in Mumbai.
Most recently, Gauri co-hosted a podcast called The Colaba Cartel, a show on what goes into the making of a restaurant in Mumbai and is currently working on her second podcast show.
Gauri, now 38, lives with her husband and 6 year old daughter, Dia. As one of the very few women restaurateurs in India, she is a full time hands-on businesswoman and mother and handles both roles with equal enthusiasm. She was recently listed in GQ’s list of the 50 Most Influential Young Indians as well as BlackBook’s Top 50 Women in Indian Luxury, and is the only woman on the Managing Committee of the National Restaurant Association of India. Occasionally Gauri also writes for print and
online publications on her favourite subject – food and travel.

What inspired you to start a restaurant business?

In 2016, Gauri Devidayal co-founded Magazine St. Kitchen

Back in 2008-09, the standalone restaurant industry in Bombay was at such a nascent stage that there were limited options for diners. I guess it was Jay and my greed for good food and a clear opportunity in the market, that made us think about opening a restaurant. 

Some tips for running a successful restaurant?  

 I have three tips – consistency, consistency, consistency. It’s not about fancy frills but about great food, beverage and most importantly hospitality. But if you don’t have consistency, you won’t be around too long.Which are the best restaurants you’ve dined in?  

How do you define the best dining experience?

An experience that you keep thinking about long after it’s over. 

What’s your most preferred cuisine?

That’s like asking me to pick a favourite child! My cravings change with my mood, but if I absolutely had to pick one, it would probably be Japanese.  

What’s the future of fine dining restaurants in India? 

I think there’s more of a future in the category of casual fine dining, than classic fine dining. We operate in a price sensitive market and given the amount of choice available now, our diners seem to have a limited propensity towards the conventional fine dining. On the other hand, casual fine dining, which is less stuffy but has the hallmarks of great food, beverage and service, is likely to be around for a while.

What’s your favourite tipple at the end of a busy day?

A glass of red wine. 

What’s your advice to young professionals working in the hospitality industry?

 Be willing to work hard and learn fast. Don’t be in some race to climb up the ranks and stay committed to one place. It’s not just about learning recipes or getting a restaurant on your CV. It’s also about showing prospective employers how you have grown within an organisation. 

What’s the most motivating factor that keeps you going in this line of profession?

Recognition from our diners in the form of repeat custom.