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#52Drinks52Weeks – Story of Rum

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCoWCztdN10&t=2s

The origin of rum can be traced to India or China and the surrounding regions of South East Asia where sugarcane was mostly grown. Marco Polo mentions having some in his 14th century logs and Malay people are known to have been drinking rum since 1000AD.

The modern day rum was possibly first distilled on the Caribbean islands where slaves found that after extracting sugar, the molasses could be fermented and then distilled to yield concentrated alcohol. This rum would have little in common with the smooth aged product we drink today but it was the start. A 1651 document from Barbados mentions this, calling the terrible liquor Kill-Devil or Rumbullion.

Interestingly, the word Rum, it is said, comes form Rumbullion or Rumbustion, which was a colloquial way of saying uproar or a loud noise which is pretty much what happened from copious consumption of rum. Other names include Pirate’s Drink, Red Eye, and Navy Neaters. But one likely possibility is that rum comes simply from the Latin name for sugar, Saccharum, which isn’t half as colourful a story!

From here, in the 1700s, the drink migrated to the US where distilleries soon sprang up along the east coast. Men, women and children had an average consumption of 13.5 litres a year. These versions of Americian Rums fared better in quality and competed with each other for taste, with some version becoming an acceptable currency even in Europe, in line with gold.

Rum rations were common among the navy for health reasons (right until 1870) which would be consumed after the water and beer onboard were over. In fact, there was nothing worse than a watered down rum, something the sailors checked by mixing it with gunpowder and lighting it. Only spirit over 57% would light up. And that’s where we get the term proof for strength of alcohol. 

So ships had to carry rum for consumption as also for trade. So good was the rum trade that many English navy officers went over to the dark side to become pirates because the money was so good and the rum wasn’t rationed. 

As the demand for sugar increased in the 18th century, rum production also sized up. Long story short, the trade of sugar and rum, as it grew, also involved the slave trade from Africa and heavy taxes being imposed by the English, all of which eventually snowballed into the American Revolution!

Even after the American Independence, Rum remained popular in the US for some time till American whiskey took over and rum, sadly, declined forever. That is not the only Revolution Rum was a part of, think of the popular cocktail Cuba Libre which, legend has it was first poured when Cuba won independence from Spain in 1902 and they celebrated by mixing the local rum with a new American import, Coca Cola!

Among all the distillates rum is perhaps the one which retains the maximum flavour of its primary ingredient. Made by distilling sugarcane juice or products thereof, and can be made to yield two different styles – the lighter ones like from Cuba and Puerto Rico and the heavier versions from Jamaica, Barbados and Demerara. 

This isn’t just about colour which is mostly adjusted by caramel. Instead, a lot  depends on the kind of yeast used, the molasses, and how fast the fermentation goes. Heavy rums are pot-still distilled twice and then aged in oak which gives them a heady nose and a golden hue but the real dark ones all have most probably caramel added to them.

Light rums, by contrast, are made using a patent still which makes for a lighter, less aromatic spirit. Caramel can be added to these too to give them colour but that doesn’t make them a heavy rum.

Rum works with many drinks, from simple water and lemonade to cola and juices like pineapple and coconut. It is very versatile as spirits and thus is used in many cocktails from the light daiquiri to the rich Planter’s Punch and the friendly Tikis.

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#52Drinks52Weeks – Martini

Welcome to 52d2w. World Gin Day has gone by and Martini Day is next, so it’s only fair we talk about Martini…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEYLqJE_aHA

Lore has it that during the Gold Rush in a town called Martinez in California, a gold miner who had just made his fortunes, wanted champagne. The bartender, not having any at hand, instead offered to fix him something with what he had: Gin, Vermouth, Bitters, Maraschino liqueur, and a slice of lemon. Thus, “The Martinez Special” was born. Once the miner moved to San Francisco and wanted the same drink, he had to instruct the bartender and soon enough, the recipe proliferated. But another theory states that the drink was a pick-me-up made in San Francisco upon the request of a miner on his way to Martinez, and many other travellers frequently asked for it.

So Martinez, then Mahattan, and finally Martini, that’s the path taken but in the period between 1882 and 1910, it spawned off many other versions – Marguerite, Martine, Martina…and so on.
The first mention of a Mixed Martini, Dry can be attributed to John Applegreen’s eponymous book in 1904 but but a Dry Martini was only mentioned two years later in a compendium by Louis Muckensturm, who was a Boston-based European bartender. The 20th century saw the rise of vodka and since gin is close enough (flavoured vodka for many), hence the creation of a vodka martini was inevitable. In 1905, a bartender had already whipped it up for a visiting Russian delegation at the St Charles hotel in New Orleans. And one of the most famous post-Prohibition joints of American in 1938 was the Russian Tea Room and once they launched an all vodka cocktail menu, things started to take off.It wasn’t till Bond made it a cult classic of its own, especially the way he had it – shaken, not stirred. But the drink itself existed before Ian Flemming’s protagonist ordered it, in Ted Saucier’s 1951 book, Bottoms Up!

A “dry” martini contains less vermouth, while a “dirty” one includes dashes of olive brine. When vodka replaces the gin, it’s known as a “kangaroo,” and a “Gibson” swaps the olive for a cocktail onion.Many great things have been written about the Martini and two come to mind: writer H.L. Mencken referred to it as “the only American invention as perfect as the sonnet.” And Ernest Hemingway in A Farewell to Arms wrote, “I’ve never tasted anything so cool and clean…They make me feel civilized.”

Lucky for us, India’s first lady of Gin, aka Gigglewater aka Karina Aggarwal fixed us perfect Martini. Here are 3 most important things to help us enjoy a martini:

  1. Know your kind. dry, sweet, or dirty,  olive or twist, try them and see which one sticks. It’s a high alcohol drink so it’s important to fin your preferred balance.
  2. The dilution is really important which is why the stir is not so simple. This is not masala chai, so the stir has to be smooth yet consistent, to mix and lower the temperature without diluting the drink with water.
  3. Temperature: Being a high alcohol content mix, it has to be served just right. Get the Temperature wrong and it can be like pouring hot lava! Which is why it is best ordered at the bar right across from the bartender!
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#52Drinks52Weeks – Roohafza

If there’s one drink that has been keeping us, our parents, their parents, their parents, and even the British nostalgic, it has to be Roohafza.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sH8Hmp_3XEI

Be it drinking it at at your grandparent’s place, with chilled water and a squeeze of lemon, or serving it at Gurupurab, it has been a family and social drink.

HUMBLE ORIGINS

Roohafza started in 1906 to beat the monstrous heat of Delhi by a practitioner of Unani and herbal medicine, Hakim Abdul Majeed.

Unani system derives its philosophy from the Greek physician Hippocrates, who believed in the healing power of nature and advocated that medicines be safe and gentle

It was first sold by Hakeem Majeed’s Dawakhaana called Hamdard, in Lal Kuan Bazaar of Old Delhi. Hamdard means the ‘sympathiser in pain.‘ Roohafza, however, is a Persian word meaning – ‘Soothing to the Soul’

And the Bangladeshi website of Roohafza says it was the name of a character adopted from the book of Masnavi Gulzar-e-Naseem written by Pandit Daya Shankar Naseem Lakhnavi. And who was the character? It was the name of the daughter of heaven, also called Jannat ki Beti

BRINGING TO THE MARKET

It was released in 1907 with a fancy label, designed by Mirza Noor Ahmad, that still remains unchanged. It was too complicate to be printed locally and was sent to was printed by the Bolton Press of the Parsees of Bombay. And, the earlier Roohafza bottles were heavier and taller with a long stem, made of glass, closed with wooden cork, like a wine bottle. The today plastic bottle avatar came rather recently in 2012.

And there are records that by 1912 many princely rulers made it a part of their daily diets. It became especially famous amongst the Muslim communities as it could be drunk during Ramadan or Ramzaan, at the only meal of the day, at the end of their Rozas, called Iftaar, not just because its refreshing but also because its natural. 

At iftaars, the entire family eats together and mothers and grandmothers pour it huge from jugs. It’s the perfect family drink. And this is what can be seen in movies today, remember that scene from Ye Jawaani Hai Deewani with Ranbir Kapoor’s mother pouring him a glass?

ROOHAFZA, PARTITION, AND THE FAMILY

Hakim Majeed passed away in 1922 leaving the reigns in the hands of his 14-year-old son Abdul Hameed who successfully expanded the brand and the business. But like many homes in India, Partition broke the family and Mohd. Said, the second son moved to Pakistan. At that time they had setups in Pakistan, India, Bangladesh too. So, it can be said that Roohafza has witnessed the bloody birth of three new countries. Of which, Arundhati Roy mentions the same in her book, The Ministry of Utmost Happiness.

SHERBET RECIPE + ROOHAFZA INNVOATIONS

Typically, a sherbet has either a base of Fruit, Flower, or Roots – Roohafza has all three. It contains natural ingredients like khus (poppy seeds), lilies, keora, roses, sandal, juices like pineapple and orange, and much more. And minus the two nostalgic ways of drinking, there’s much more that can be done.

Hamdard has tried some innovations of their own as well. Be it launching its ready-to-serve format like RoohAfza Fusion, or having RoohAfza inspired drinks at Barista coffeeshops, or even developing RoohAfza flavoured milk. But, one of the most talked about play was its carbonated drink sold in cans, in Pakistan, as RoohAfza Go. Some didn’t agree with it, some did, but, who are we to say

ROOHAFZA DOMINATES

In Indian, Roohafza still dominates 50% of the powdered soft drinks and liquid concentrates. Saveur Magazine, considered by many to be the last word on authentic cuisines, ranked RoohAfza No. 1 in the drinks category from around the world in 2007.

SHERBETS IN INDIA

But, do remember, sherbet, sharbat, sarbath…whatever you call it, has had a longer standing history in India than Rooh Afza. The word comes from the Arabic term shariba, meaning “to drink”, and arrived in India with the Mughal Emperor Babur in the 16th century.

Well, Sherbets may have come with them but their earlier rendition has been mentioned in the Travels of Ibn Battuta in Asia and Africa, where he describes a royal meal he had with the 14th century Sultan Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq at Tughlaqabad in Delhi. He mentions sherbet of rose water that was served before meals, which ended with paan.

Roohafza has been a classic dressing in Faloodas and Rabris, which also was brought in by the Mughals from Persia, and Humayun was especially a fan of.

Interestingly, his son, Akbar was a vegetarian three times a week. He cultivated his own kitchen garden and carefully nourished them with rosewater, so that the vegetables would smell fragrant on being cooked!

Well, definitely sherbets have come a long way. In the new age, people are getting kicks from international drinks. In such times, we would like to see more Indian drinks returning to bars and restaurants after the lockdown lifts. we’d happily opt for a Roohafza over any carbonated drink even at a hotel or a restaurant. And why stop at that. Why not use it mixology, or baking, or desserts. I say let’s do that. In times of Atmanirbhar Bharat and Vocal for Local, and let it not just be a drink from our childhood, and drink up our heritage and be proud of it. 

And to that, Cheers!!

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#52Drinks52Weeks – World Cocktail Day

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLXPdSlCzpk

20 industry luminaries come together to celebrate the drink that keeps us afloat – Cocktails! Team IWBS raises its glasses and pays tribute to those behind the stick, who make the world more animated (and sane) with their fantastic mixes. A day where every hour is a happy hour. Cheers!!

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Blog TippleTalk

The Perfect Cocktail

The terms ‘cocktail’ has never quite enjoyed the same limelight as, say, ‘on the rocks’ or ‘single malt’. In fact, people often liken cocktails to reheated food or yesterday’s leftovers. For many, it’s just a way to dispense off alcohol that might be too cheap to be allowed to impart any taste to the final mix. Others drink them because they want to enjoy the high, but can’t stand the (bitter) taste of alcohol. Both these lots do the category much disservice.

Making cocktails isn’t about throwing together a few ingredients. It’s about understanding how different liquids taste on their own

Like the maitre d’hôte of yesteryears—who not only sat you at your table, but also carved the cold cuts and game joints for you—F&B used to involve a special skill set, one that couldn’t be emulated without putting in time and earning experience. Mixing cocktails is similar. It isn’t about throwing together a few ingredients as per a prescribed recipe—even a child could do that—but about knowing and understanding how different liquids taste on their own.

The knowledge of how they would work in a mix is something that comes only after years of tinkering behind the wood. There is no short cut to inventing a good, balanced cocktail—not the sweet, syrupy stuff that 90% of bars throw up, but the delicate nuanced flavourful potions that one can drink all night and enjoy a lilting high minus the crushing sense of intoxication.

Perch – Wine and Coffee Bar in New Delhi

PCO in New Delhi was one of the first bars to show us the power of good, balanced cocktails. The duo of Vaibhav Singh (who has nowPerched elsewhere) and Arijit Bose made it an experience akin to a visit to Willy Wonka’s famed premises. Then Gurgaon went and got itself an awesome bar as well, but one I always lament it doesn’t deserve: Speakeasy with the humble monk-like Yangdup Lama at the helm. Soon enough these were joined by PDA, Sidecar, Saz, Juniper and Hong Kong Club, both at Andaz, Together at 12th at Le Meridien, Gurgaon, at Shangri-La…the list has certainly exploded.

Devender Sehgal - One of the best bartender of Indian origin

Seeing all this capital action, Mumbai, too has kept pace. Bars like Ellipsis (Devender Sehgal rocked the place before pursuing a Michelin-starred career in Hong Kong) got the ball rolling. More recently I’ll happily visit Americano, Woodside Inn, Thirsty City, O’Pedro, for their cocktail prowess. 

Unlike a single malt or even wine, which come ready to a bar, a cocktail is the only area where a real display of skill is needed. For me, a good mixologist can make or break a bar even more than the DJ. A lot of speakeasy and dive bars don’t even have one, but they invest in multiple mixology masters.

So, for all of you who think cocktails are what women or those who don’t like alcohol drink, think again. Cocktails are much like a theological debate in that there are no right answers, but each sentence draws us deeper. But, unlike theological debates, cocktails are comfortably supported by canapés and are best had at sundown.

Written by Sommelier Magandeep SINGH.
First published in Financial Express.

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Blog TippleTalk

#TippleTalk – Distinct Spirits For Distinct Cultures

DO YOU know that saying, “Tell me what you eat and I will tell you who you are?” It was proudly uttered by Frenchman Brillat Savarin, the famous gastronome. He was responsible for leaving behind a treasure trove of information concerning gastronomy. So timeless was his counsel that time has not changed its relevance in any manner. Travel through the length and breadth of our country and what one notices is that it’s not just clothes and language habits that change, it’s everything—from the way we think to the way we consume and even what we consume. So much so that simply by looking at these factors for a long enough time, one can start seeing a pattern, a symmetry in our actions and inactions that runs common through all aspects of our lives. In other words, if I were to dare provide a corollary to the famous quote above, it would be this, “Tell me how you live and I’ll tell you what you eat.”

Travel through the length and breadth of our country and what one notices is that it’s not just clothes and language habits that change, it’s everything

Recently, during one of those gentle alcohol-laced discussions with a jewellery designer friend (Gaurav), something interesting turned up. This was one of those chats that happen so late in the night that every other worldly worry has been brought up and exhausted. Essentially, once the complaining and bickering of the quotidian grind has died down, the talk finally moves on to quaint observations, the ones which still appeal to our innate child-like curiosity. Gaurav shared how, in his business travels across the country, the way people buy jewellery gives an insight into their thinking, how they perceive life, etc.

The northern part of the country, for example, likes big pieces: long earrings, over-emphasised neckpieces, big bangles. They like to make it a point that their accessories don’t hide behind the rest of them. They want to be on display. The south, by contrast, prefers smaller sizes. They may spend the same amount in value as someone from the north, but they would channel that towards, say, a better-quality diamond or a more delicate design. For them, it’s more about the detail than the outwardly semblance of size and opulence. Frankly, this shouldn’t be news to most of us: the jokes fly thick and heavy about the dwellers of our subcontinent at its two extremities and just how different they are. But then, we see the same pattern in our cuisines. While northern ones tend to show a certain penchant for the rich and the lush, the south sticks to a path more austere and less ostentatious. Even in the drinks we imbibe, this philosophy appears to define the order. The north likes cocktails with more cream, vanilla and fruity notes. The south prefers less sweetness and has a certain predilection for spiced drinks. The north likes to play with vodka, dressing it up in all sorts of juices, flavours and garnishes. The south prefers darker spirits and, most commonly, they are drunk with only water added. The lavish-austere contrast remains obvious across the board. Of course, there are anomalies, but the general pattern is distinctly obvious: the ostentatious works better in the north.

Frankly, this didn’t come as news to me as, I am sure, to you as well. But in our defence, Gaurav and I had been sipping on some poignant spirits and it was extremely late in the night. So to draw parallels between jewellery shopping and cocktail imbibing seemed a highly intellectual task—linking two rather unrelated fields with a common denominator.

The moral of the day is nothing really—keep calm and enjoy your Sunday. Maybe to remember that different upbringings make for different tactile profiles, so to disregard any is a sign of ignorance and disrespect. Drink what you like, but also always try what you don’t know yet. And do it all in moderation for, as monsieur Savarin rather aptly summed up in a lesser-known quote: “If you get indigestion and inebriation then my friend you don’t know how to eat or drink.”

The writer is a sommelier

Originally appeared in Financial Express

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Blog TippleTalk

#TippleTalk – Chronicles of Rum and Coke

Rum and coke is often regarded as the lazy man’s cocktail and is one of the most consumed alcoholic drinks in the world. Commonly known as Cuba Libre, this mix of rum, cola and a squeeze of lime has a little story attached to it. 

Origins

Cuba Libre – Combination of Rum, Coca Cola and Lime

A unique style of Cuba Libre existed before the combination of rum and cola became popular. Instead of sweet refreshing cola a mixture of brown sugar and water was used. With the arrival of the American army during 1898, Cuba also received their first sip of Coca Cola. Soon that became the preferred beverage for native Cubans too.

With its availability in common bars and taverns, it was a preferred mixer for many drinks. While celebrating the victory from the Spanish circa mid 1900s, Officers of the American army ordered a Bacardi rum and a Coke at a bar in Havana. Impressed by this combination and as an ode to their officer, all the other soldiers present in the bar called for the same drink. Happy with this gesture the officer finally proposed a toast by saying ‘Por Cuba Libre’ in celebration of free Cuba.

Controversy

A Vintage Rum and Coke ‘ Cuba Libre’ Ad

During 1965, Fausto Rodriguez, an advertising executive for Bacardi filed an affidavit. Claiming that he was present during the time this drink was created. Little Fausto was acting as a messenger for the US troops then, at the young age of fourteen. He was apparently working in the same bar when his employer called for a Bacardi rum and Coke drink. 

Later, in 1966 Bacardi published an ad stating this story in the famous Life magazine. However, to date, the accuracy of this story remains unverified. Maybe filing an affidavit 65 years on could just be a marketing gimmick?

Another theory suggests Cuba Libre originated in 1902 at El Floridita restaurant in Havana, Cuba.

Popularity and Variations

Being one of the staples for Cubans, this drink later took over United States. During prohibition in US, Coca Cola was widely used as it helped in disguising the alcohol. Also, cola covered up for the low quality of rums and other spirits available then. The drink further flew onwards to Europe and became the go-to drink for WWII soldiers. During this time, the renowned Andrew Sisters recorded a song called ‘Rum and Coca Cola’ and it became an instant hit.

Bacardi claims this drink to be the world’s second most popular alcoholic drink.

Rum and Coke – Cuba Libre , Worlds second most popular cocktail

Authentic recipe calls for 2 parts of rum and 4 parts of cola in a highball glass filled with ice and lime wedges. However, there are possible variations one involves changing to a dark rum. Other early recipes included gin and bitters to elevate the overall profile. Cubata is another variation made by replacing rum with aged Anejo Tequila. Another interesting variation to the drink is rum infused with butter popcorn called as Cinema Highball.

Whichever way you enjoy it, remember that complicated isn’t always better; sometimes the simplest of combinations can deliver the most legendary of concoctions.