One of the culinary icons of Delhi is Indian Accent, continually celebrated as one of the top restaurants in the country
since it opened its doors in 2009. It has been a bastion of fine dining, stylishly and innovatively showcasing Indian cuisine. And now it has a second home in Mumbai.
The chic Art Deco- and Jazz-themed restaurant welcomes you with framed photos of Mumbai’s architectural
features that are tagged as UNESCO World Heritage Sites while the dining room offers views of the Bandra Kurla
Complex high-rises. A quick transition from yesteryear’s historic Bombay to today’s modern Mumbai.
The beverage programme is headed by celebrated mixologist, Varun Sharma, and wines are under the captaincy of
Kevin Rodrigues, who was recently crowned as India’s best sommelier. There are three drinks on the menu that catch your attention — the Capri Club, the Byculla Club Cocktail, and the Bombay Cocktail. Kevin shares that it was here at the Byculla Club that ice was first imported in the country from Dallas, back in the day, at Rs 10 a ton, specifically to serve chilled cocktails to the patrons. These three drinks are a precise reconstruction of those early concoctions that showed Mumbaikars how to sip like royalty.
Aside from these cocktails, the wine programme, featuring over 100 carefully selected wines, will impress you with
its spread, sensible pricing, and the stories of the wines. Wines under each selection are listed according to their body and complexity, enabling you to make a selection according to personal choice. (Smartly done I say!)
On to the food. The four-course set menu comes with 13 dishes and a glass of G H Mumm Champagne. While that might sound like a lot, who doesn’t enjoy a bit of extravagance once in a while? After the signature welcome drink of Anardana Shikanji, came Blue Cheese mini naan, and an amuse bouche shorba, followed by three starters — Dal Pakwan, Dahi Bada and Churan ka Karela which was absolutely smashing.
Murg Malai Gobindobhog Mushroom Payesh Truffles featured for the entrée is a risotto-like delicacy that draws its
inspiration from the Kolkata kheer made from the aromatic Bengali rice called Gobindobhog. A rather moist risotto is
served with a succulent chicken patty, a Parmesan crisp, and a generous shaving of black truffles. It all makes sense when it comes together, with the earthy truffle flavours lingering on.
Chef Manish Mehrotra excelled in oriental cuisine before traversing to Indian Accent. His much-loved Sweet Mango Pork Ribs came next. A fresh take on Sweet and Sour Pork, this dish is cooked delicately in Aam ka Chunda, a Gujarati mango pickle with fennel, ginger, and other earthy spices. The meat falls off the bone effortlessly, leaving nothing but remnants of the sauce, and a clean-picked bone on the plate within just seconds of it being served. Isn’t that the biggest compliment to a chef?
The mains came loaded. Lamb Shank with Nihari Sauce was an excellent dish, a modern rendition of a Hyderabadi
favourite. The shank was delicate, it’s gravy rich but not overwhelming, spices on point for an elevated interpretation,
and excellent presentation. The trio of Butter Chicken Kulcha, Black Dal, and Smoked Eggplant Raita takes you to your comfort zone. Who hasn’t enjoyed this combo, be it a Sunday winter afternoon or on the morning after a Saturday celebration?
The finale was Indian Accent’ signature dessert, the Chandni Chowk- inspired Daulat ki Chaat. It’s not only a visual treat, but also deliciously light on the palate, with crunchy almond shavings, butterscotch crumbs, and a royal feel derived from the dessert’s foam studded with saffron, cardamom, and sweet spices.
Indian Accent in Delhi is famous for marrying traditional and well- loved Indian fare with international ingredients and cooking techniques. And the same is true for Indian Accent, Mumbai.